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Lil Red CJ5 Log

13K views 114 replies 13 participants last post by  roboto65 
#1 ·
Well have to start somewhere have been hanging around here long enough paid member and all anyhoo figured I would put this here like everyone else to log what I have done.

Mine may take a bit not to get running mind you but to well they never finish who am I kidding :rofl:

I will get to some pics later on in the day as I am out there pulling the heads.

Thanks for following along :highfive:
 

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#30 ·
Yeah guys this is the finished head dang real nice guy to. I did bring the casting stuff up to him and he said they just bead blast and what does not come off stays :dunno: as far as the valve goes they did reuse the old ones except for one that was burned and could not be fixed.
 
#31 ·
Well lots of running today and doctors appt ugh lol alls good I will live another day.

I took the front timing cover off today and well the timing chain is kinda loose so well along with the cam it will get replaced :)





Anyhow cleaning the cover off now and scrubbing all the parts about the only thing I am not messing with is the pistons and bearings.
 
#32 ·
After you get the new timing set check the oil passage in the drive gear for the cam. Numerous reports of casting flash has been found there, I had some in mine. To my knowledge all the oil for the fuel eccentric, timing chain, and distributor drive gear come from the front cam bearing , and passes thru the passage.
 
#34 ·
Looks like you are making progress! How about another update? That's a hoss of a cam for a 304 if I am not mistaken. Have you ordered it yet? You might want to ask around if you haven't. I put a Bullet split duration 256/263 in mine. Lucdog is right, better check all those passages out. There is also a modification you can do on the cover that I did on mine and it really helped the oil pressure. Also from what I hear, a Cloyes chain is the best.
 
#35 ·
Have not ordered a cam yet. I work on a Tugboat and well spend 2 to 3 weeks gone and a week home so updates come as I get home and get working on her LOL

How do you like the split duration cam? I am not looking for a monster cause the 304 is not that and the only reason I am doing the cam is the bottom of the lifters were concave so figured the cam needs to be replaced I am on the look out for a 360 to rebuild but need the 304 to run for a while so I can rebuild at my leisure and as the money comes in.
 
#36 ·
I was thinking you worked on a boat. I love my cam. It has a nice little "hit" to it and didn't kill me on torque. From my understanding, the bigger the cam the more low end torque you loose. I think that one listed from 1500-5300 rpm. I am thinking you need something from an idle to 4500 or 5000 rpms. Also if you have to look at how much lift you are getting or else you can't use your stock set up on the valve springs. I am no expert, but that is what I remember when I was looking for one on mine. You can always call the guys at bullet racing cams and ask them for some info. Oh yeah, one other thing I learned is that they have taken all the zinc (I believe) out of the oils now days and a flat tappet cam needs that especially while being broken in. You will have to use that additive while breaking it in. I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil in my motor because it is supposed to be one of if not the only oil with the zinc left in it. I still have my stock cam and if you were close you could just get it and see if it was good since you are trying to "get by" until you get your 360. It ran good before I swapped it out and the lifters looked good best I can remember.
 
#37 ·
Your thinking ZDDP .

There is more than 1 brand, this is what I use. Including my '05 Rubicon.
http://www.penngrade1.com/

ZDDP , IMO is critical for breaking in a new cam. A number of CJ owners use Rotella 15w-40, I feel this is a good oil but lacks the zinc additives that it had in the past. The reduction in zinc was partly because of catalytic converters And whatever else emission crap they put on new Diesel engines. And that probably goes together with low sulfur diesel fuel. I still use Rotella in my diesel pickup, but I add a zinc additive.

Bill
 
#38 ·
Old small block chevys could have what was called a RV cam put in when rebuilding for a few extra bucks, sometimes just by asking. It would add a few more pounds of torque at lower rpms. Used in trucks and well, RVs. Dunno if AMC has a similar option. Whatever you decide, it will be much better than when you started, so remember a stock or slightly jumped up cam may not show up on the radar as much as a new timing chain and valve job.
Decisions! Jeeps are so much fun.......

WSS
 
#39 ·
Yep she keeps me happy. Again the I figured I had to replace the cam since the lifters were concave on the bottom and the old cam would eat new lifters I mean the engine was running good before the tear down other than the burnt valve but even that did not affect it much. As far as oil goes yeah will get a break in lube for the cam for sure and will have to break down and buy some dino oil :D

I run Royal Purple in all my engines well the ones that run 15w 40 lol Why you ask well thats what we run on my boat and made an agreement with the boss So I get it for my personal use for free :cool:

Really want to get her running so I can make it a running project. Thanks for all the feedback guys I appreciate it.
 
#40 ·
Well married off the son yesterday "God rest his soul" :rofl: She is a good women and they love each other very much. Anyhow have not got much done pulled the cam will get pics up later of it but here is a pic of the Happy couple.



Should have invited you all,heck we had 5 family members there,her side had 30 LOL we are hermits I guess :rolleyes: plus both are parents are gone but we had a good time.

I spent way to much Jeep money ok now it is related :rofl:
 
#44 ·
#45 ·
I have always had good luck with the tech line at Summit. They actually seem to know there stuff when I have had to call them. I would give them a call and get their input. If I had to pick one on that page it would be the comp cam cca-10-201-4. It's the one with the 260/260 duration. The valve lift isn't as much. I would pick the smaller cam in the Summit if I went that way. It's the Sum 8600. The valve lift is higher so you would need to make sure that's not going to mess you up. I just used the stock set-up I already had on my heads on mine and the valve lift on many of the cams I looked at was too high. Again, I am certainly no expert. Hope that helps. You will have to post some sound when you get it running. I can't wait to hear it!
 
#46 ·
Yep will do on the video. I have not called them yet but will next week when I place my order for my parts just hope the crack does not cause any problems till I find that 360 LOL
 
#47 ·
Saw a axle on CL says it is a dana 30 why no locking hubs. I have drums on mine and was looking for an axle with disc brakes would the parts on this axle work?

I have other pics but kinda hard to do stuff on my cell phone lol
 
#50 ·
Ok well going to throw this on here to get opinions now I do know the 360 has more power but the 304 presented it's self so I have no problem rebuilding it and running it and going to guinea pig it a little with Shawn :D with the cam which I am looking forward to.

Anyhow to the point this question pertains to the 304 but it is an any engine question as it deals with cylinder measuring and what do I do with what I have.

I do not have a problem boring this but why if it is not needed why waste money.

Ok now the long part PS I tried putting the numbers apart but when I post it they are jumbled back up sorry.

Here are the measurements of each cylinder top mid and bottom mind you was attained with telescoping Ts and a vernier caliper digital also took 2 measurements 90 degrees apart so one vertical and horizontal

#1 T 3.765 3.765
M 3.751 3.758
B 3.752 3.752

#2 T 3.762 3.756
M 3.753 3.752
B 3.755 3.751

#3 T 3.756 3.758
M 3.753 3.753
B 3.752 3.750

#4 T 3.761 3.764
M 3.755 3.755
B 3.751 3.755

#5 T 3.765 3.756
M 3.754 3.755
B 3.757 3.755

#6 T 3.756 3.758
M 3.752 3.755
B 3.755 3.753

#7 T 3.765 3.759
M 3.757 3.755
B 3.756 3.757

#8 T 3.769 3.769
M 3.757 3.757
B 3.755 3.759

Sorry lots to look at but was a little work to get that but worth it just wondering what do you gurus see the least I can bore would be .020 or if I just honed to straighten then go back with stock or would the honing remove to much?

Also did not ridge ream this so that may have thrown it off but there was not much ridge at all by my finger feel anyway mostly carbon.
 
#51 ·
Well stuck the good block in the machine shop yesterday by the time I am done I will have a new motor it looks like hate half doing something so it looks like a full rebuild of a 304. I will get some pics up soon.
 
#53 ·
Ok well stuck on the boat but machine shop called .030 over on the pistons and .010 under on Mains and rod big ends got the pistons ordered. One question where would you take weight off the rod if say we are weighing everything and getting things close on weight and balance.
 
#54 ·
Well just got off the phone with the machine shop got out cheaper than Matt but dang 700 dollars later LOL Oh well cannot take it with ya and I will have a new rebuild.
 
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