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Unread 12-03-2009, 08:25 AM   #1
theguidoune
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1985 CJ7 
 
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Lift question--Not day one anymore

Ok So I have another thread labeled day one that is turning into a build thread instead of just my happy go lucky "I got a jeep" first day post. So in an effort to keep the chatter on point for my lift questions I am starting this thread.


Anyhow, I have been reading and reading threads on lifts and think I have come to a conclusion but I think I might be going overboard.


I was thinking about ordering the rough country 4" suspension lift and doing a 1 inch body lift. Not sure on the vendor at the moment for the BL.

Also, I was thinking about putting some boomerang shackles on it because from what I have read it helps with the axle flex issues? Now rough county sells them but they are larger then stock. I measured the straight ones on my jeep now and they are 4.5" so I assume that equates to a .5 lift since I read somewhere on here that stock is 4" but I digress.


The body lift seams to be a no brainer since the cost is just about the same as getting all new bolts and bushing anyhow.

The lift on Rough country states that it alone will clear 33" tires. I think I may start with 33s and see where things take me. From my logic and I may be wrong but you only get 1" more clearance going to 35s anyhow so I am not sure its worth the trouble to do all this lifting to clear 35s.


So do I do BL, Suspension and the neet shackles or drop any of the mention lift accessories for more stability?

Like I said the body lift seams like a no brainer because of the cost and the body is none existant at the moment so it would be an easy install. Maybe someone can talk me out of it with some other non lift body mount kit.

Do they make boomerang shackles with the stock lift?


--mad--

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Unread 12-03-2009, 08:38 AM   #2
theguidoune
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One more thing is the shock upgrade from rc-8000 to the nitro 9000 a good idea? I will also get the stearing stablelizer I guess. Its only money after all
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Unread 12-03-2009, 08:56 AM   #3
jeepskate
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The boomerang shackles don't do anything for flex on a CJ. They were designed for the rear of YJ's to clear the rear crossmember since YJ shackles mount through the frame rather than under it like CJ's do. Boomerangs are used on CJ's flipped upside down to prevent shackle inversion on flexy rigs...from what I've read, Rough Country is true to it's name so uber-flexiness shouldn't be a concern. Also, stock CJ shackles are 3" (YJ's are 4") and with shackle lifts since you're only moving one end of the spring, you only get *half* of the increased shackle length in lift. So, if you went to a 4" shackle (1" longer than stock), you would get 1/2" of lift. Realistically, you can go with a 2.5" lift which should ride & flex better than it's 4" counterpart and not require messing with the steering or rear driveline, 4" shackles and the 1" taller poly body bushing kit to get to 4". 35's-36's are kinda the tipping point where things start to get more expensive and streetability begins to suffer.
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'86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,2.5" Superlift,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers.
'83 Scrambler: time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff.
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Unread 12-03-2009, 09:03 AM   #4
theguidoune
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Ok I am seeing a trend here on lift post. This will not be the first where I see someone say stay away from the higher lift and coming from someone who seems to be highly regarded around here I will take your advice.

So 2.5" suspension lift 1" BL seams to be ideal.

If I am buying shackles should I buy the boomerangs or just go straight. I guess if I just reuse the ones I have then its a non issue. My maine thing is if I am going to spend money anyhow and they only cost a little more will I get any improvment from them?

I plan on waiting a couple days before ordering. This way I can shop for prices/sales/coupons and perhaps give the vendors on here a chance to give me some prices as well.
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Unread 12-03-2009, 11:26 AM   #5
twoleos617
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I've been searching the board for a while now on lift stuff. The concessous here is the RC lifts are indeed "rough."
From what I've found, and this is just my gathering, the order of preference in lifts is RE, BDS, Skyjacker.
They each have different pro's/con's.
RE- most spendy but complete kit and great quality
BDS- great quality and top notch warranty
SJ- trustworthy and still good flex but not complete kit.
As far a body lifts go, everyone seems to like the 1" poly kits.

2"-4" lift differences are all about the ground clearance you want and size of tires you'll run. once you figure those two preferences out, then shop for the lift.

Soon I'll be going with either 4" BDS or SJ, 1/2" shackles, 1" BL, 35" tires. but thats the look/performance i want and need.
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Unread 01-19-2010, 10:55 AM   #6
theguidoune
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Ok guys a little update on my research.

My options are

2.5 Suspension
1 BL
Shackles.
Should clear 33's fine
Cost minus tires about 1k if i go with bds

But in my greed and idle time I have found a few things

4 suspesion
1bl
standard shackles
35's
SYE/CV shaft. Still need more research on this swap. COST???
MML- (I think I prefer to lift the motor instead of droping the trans.) COST???
Tie rod flip COST???

I am not completely sold on the lift ideas yet. I just don't want to spend money on all this and feel like I should have went bigger.

Also, a little more research has pointed me towards bds.
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Unread 01-19-2010, 11:57 AM   #7
jeepskate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theguidoune View Post
Ok guys a little update on my research.

35's
You're going to need to factor in alloy 1-piece axle shafts for the AMC 20 rear and you're also going to need to regear front & rear in order to adequately move those puppies and at least beef up the front lock-outs. I told you 35's are a tipping point...

Quote:
SYE/CV shaft. Still need more research on this swap. COST???
CJ's don't use/need SYE's...should've found that in your research...that's a Wrangler thing. Plan on about $300 for a shaft & yoke, a little less if you find a used XJ or Explorer shaft and have it shortened & rebalanced.

Quote:
MML- (I think I prefer to lift the motor instead of droping the trans.) COST???
Doesn't exist for CJ's (should've found that too). Since you're looking at doing the CV shaft, you wouldn't be dropping your t-case anyway.

Quote:
Tie rod flip COST???
If you go with the Rock Equipment flip, $33 for the inserts and borrow the reamer from one of us who has one.

Quote:
Also, a little more research has pointed me towards bds.
BDS is a good choice. Probably the top end of the middle grade kits/bottom end of the top grade kits.
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'86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,2.5" Superlift,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers.
'83 Scrambler: time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff.
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Unread 01-19-2010, 12:16 PM   #8
theguidoune
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepskate View Post
You're going to need to factor in alloy 1-piece axle shafts for the AMC 20 rear and you're also going to need to regear front & rear in order to adequately move those puppies and at least beef up the front lock-outs. I told you 35's are a tipping point...
These are in the plans already. I actually have my eyes on a trade for a front and rear set with 4.10 and the one peace axle. He is going to something else can't remember what he told me.



Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepskate View Post
don't use/need SYE's...should've found that in your research...that's a Wrangler thing. Plan on about $300 for a shaft & yoke, a little less if you find a used XJ or Explorer shaft and have it shortened & rebalanced.
This is where I needed to do more research. All the threads I have been reading have been more YJ specific. I am limited what I can search at work with working photos.
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Unread 01-19-2010, 12:19 PM   #9
theguidoune
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Ok this may sound really stupid but,

I wonder how many times someone has said. "damn if I only had one more inch"

Well I say that to the wife all the time but back to jeeps

Really, I am so torn on the 35's thing. To me its not a cost issue its a time issue. Research time, fabrication time, parts swaping time, and your time to reply to my stupid questions.

BTW all I have right now is a frame and a bunch of parts. I need to pull the trigger on this kit soon because I am getting nowhere.

A beer might help.
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Unread 01-19-2010, 12:58 PM   #10
twoleos617
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ALWAYS factor the beer into projects. its your most valuable tool.

staying SUA, 4" is about all you'll find for the sus lift. you can get away with 1/2" shackles but i personaly wouldnt go higher than that. those two increases with a BL will get you over some 35's.

any higher that that, you'll be getting into an expensive and time consuming SOA senario. plus, your COG changes drasticaly.
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Unread 01-19-2010, 04:12 PM   #11
OlivergreenCJ7
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BDS does make a 3.5" YJ lift which would be a good to do now considering how your jeep is sitting now... Meaning you need to install another rear shackle hanger in the front about an inch more towards the front. Basically the the front hole becomes the back and drill a new front hole. Everything else will bolt up. If you already thinking you might go 35's down the road I would pull the trigger now to run 35's. I used 4" SL, 3/4" shackle lift, and cut for TJ flares. Works well for me and drives decent on the road. Like others have said, with 35's you're talking alloy shafts front and rear, especially if you lock it. I haven't had a problem yet running alloy's, 35's and detroits. Click my profile for a pic of my jeep. I have about 7" between the rear flare and tire and 6.5" in the front. That's loaded with spares, full tank of gas, tools, spare, and winch or wench whichever you prefer Good luck with your build
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