Lift. Also depends what you want to do with it. I have a 2.5 lift w 33's and its fine. But i also dont do any serious offroading anymore. Just some trails.
I see you got shims with yours. Which ones did you go with? Are you using stock shackles or lift shackles? Did you go with the BDS shocks, or something different. Will be looking to place my order next month, just gathering any and all info I can before I pull the trigger?
GP - I see you got shims with yours. Which ones did you go with? Are you using stock shackles or lift shackles? Did you go with the BDS shocks, or something different. Will be looking to place my order next month, just gathering any and all info I can before I pull the trigger?
2 degree steel shims by Warrior.
1/2" lift shackles (forget brand it was 12 years ago) w greasable bolts,
BDS shocks (standard ones w kit)
Rubicon express extended center pins for front leafs (to install shims)
BDS u bolts for dana 44 rear axle
Skyjacker stock size replacement stabilizer
My current springs have military wrap ends. They are 15 years old and saggy. But they fit fine in my shackles which are 4" bolt to bolt - so i know the bds ends will fit fine.
Thanks for the parts list! Sounds similar to mine. Have been back and forth on the shims. I am going to run standard shackles. Probably Jim's. Did you go with the transfer case drop and say bar link extensions?
Im using the 2* shims because my caster is +5 degrees (due to the lift shackles). It steers well, but i think i can fine tune it if i get the caster to about +7
No on the TF case drop. My case output angle and my pinion angle are with a degree. If they get way off after the new springs, i will reconsider.
No on the links too. My old springs were custom made with a 2" skyjacker add a leaf added. I dont think another 1/2" is going to affect my sway bar much.
I should mention i also installed a 1" daystar body lift and extended stainless brake lines. Neither are expensive, but both helped me
Thanks GP. I might go ahead and order the shims and bolts just in case. My 5 is pretty much stock. So I think I can get away without using them but I can always send them back I guess.
You will notice the difference. You are increasing:
- rolling mass (typ 31" tire weighs about 31 lbs, typ 33" can weigh 53 lbs)
- friction & resistance ( depends on tread width and road contact patch)
- mechanical advantage ( the main issue for regearing... just think about a bicycles gears and how changing them makes pedaling easier)
- dont forget about beakes and stress on your transmission too
Nice! I can't wait to be ready to install. I don't know my gear ratio. I watched some vids on changing the gear ratio, but thought I could get away with not doing it since I'm only going from 31's to 33's. Evidently, I'm wrong?!
GP_Pete, BDS springs look good. Are you doing anything additional with the BDS 2.5 lift. Drop pitman arm, tire rod flip, transfer case lower? Or not necessary with the 2.5 BDS kit?
When I put the 2.5" BDS kit on my CJ5, I actually raised the transfer case using a crossmember/skiplate from TDK with '0' drop. I'm running a double Carden rear drive shaft. I have enough room to slap a set of 34x10.5-15 tires under it for street use. And may just do it, since I've put in 4.56 gears. No need for a dropped Pitmann arm with a 2.5" lift. Flipping tie-rods is a personal choice and a good idea if you run over a lot of rocks.
Pic with 32x11.50-15 TSL/SX tires on 8" Eagle Alloys:
For the OP: As posted, check you existing gear ratios. Swapping out front/rear for a set favorable to 33" tires is going to be pricey and full of MAW's (locker, 1pc shafts, etc...). Looks like you've got a T176 transmission, so it's 1:1 in 4th. Going too low (high numeric) on the gearing is going to make that I6 scream at highway speeds. For 33's, I wouldn't go beyond 4.11s, and perhaps down to 3.73s if the tires don't measure a true 33" diameter.
Honestly, if you've got decent performance 'as is', I'd leave it be. 31's (or 32's) should do everything you want. Also, going to a bigger tires is going to decrease the turning radius on the narrow track, because you will need to adjust the steering stops to prevent the tires from hitting the springs. Lot's of considerations when contemplating bigger tires.
FWIW, a 2.5" lift alone probably won't clear 33's, if you flex out the suspension even moderately.
Here's mine with a new 2.5" lift and 32" tires (true height 30.5"). As you can see, the tub only clears by about 1/2" in the rear wheel well with the tire tucked. 33's would surely do damage to the tub.
If I ever do go to a tire larger than 32" on my CJ5, it won't see anything more difficult than the parking lot at the local liquor store....
Personal Opinion: I really don't like how a CJ5 looks with more than 2.5-3 inches of lift. It starts to bring even more issues with moving the COG even higher on a narrow track, short wheelbase, leaf sprung vehicle.
I have the bds 2.5 inch lift. Stock shackles. 100% stock. I had to use 4 degree shims to get my caster around 6 degrees. Would actually like to install a little more. So measure your caster before you buy some shims. It improved my steering greatly. I also run 31s and think they look great. I've got plenty of flex room, doesn't bog the jeep down. If I had it over to do again I would go with the ome light duty springs. The bds is a little rough for how much my jeep weighs, but I have never ridden in a jeep with ome so they may be the same.
GP_Pete, BDS springs look good. Are you doing anything additional with the BDS 2.5 lift. Drop pitman arm, tire rod flip, transfer case lower? Or not necessary with the 2.5 BDS kit?
We agree on lifting a CJ5 higher than 2-3". It's simply not safe, and it looks silly.
I think a lot of CJs are basically ruined by trying to run tires larger than 32"s. IMO, that's the threshold at which factory gearing, engine, drivetrain, and steering components can handle, safely.
I think a lot of CJs are basically ruined by trying to run tires larger than 32"s. IMO, that's the threshold at which factory gearing, engine, drivetrain, and steering components can handle, safely.
Usually why I always ask people: "What size tire do you want to run?" when they want to build their CJ.
So many component upgrades, need to be considered when running large tires. Heck, I've seen a CJ5 with 44's on it. But it had a SOA with full width 1 ton's and a BBC.
:ranton:
There is a point (again IMO) that the 'light and nimble' aspects of a small CJ5 start to diminish, trying to go big. Even with my 32" tires, I've had to sacrifice some turning radius.
But in the end, it's the owner's decision as to how he/she wants it. Most, if not all of us, on this forum want to ensure the owner knows what problems they may face.
I like the placement of your high lift. Mine is similar, but running a X8000i so I have room above the fairlead to mount it like I did. The 8274 just takes up so much real estate on the front of the plate, I think you did a good job mounting things where you did. Great looking rig of course!
I have a 2.5 bds and 1 inch body lift and heavy ads tire carrier . I don't think it sags too much.
It will look stouter with a 2.5 vs 4 inch lift and 33' or 32's
Just finished my bds 2.5 install. I made a new thread with notes and stuff. Not sure how to link stuff here:
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