Lets see your Warn 8274 on your cj! - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Lets see your Warn 8274 on your cj!

SYE Kits from CCOR! 706-207-4140*VOTE NOW Help Metalcloak Giveaway an XJ Suspension*Even Better Heim Pricing! From Ruffstuff

Reply
Unread 04-12-2012, 03:51 PM   #46
82JeepCJ7
Registered User
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 4,776
Sounds like yours is a Warn 5687, the predecessor to the 8274.

Does it look like this?


And have controls like this?


__________________
Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
82JeepCJ7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-12-2012, 04:17 PM   #47
walkerhoundvm
Registered User
1981 CJ8 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: The Little Apple, KS
Posts: 3,090
Nope - mine is an 8274 Jeep SE w/o a clutch. Brake yes, clutch no. See pics above. It's a 79 and I was confused that his pic of what is supposedly a 77 has a clutch...which I didn't think came until later versions.
walkerhoundvm is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-12-2012, 04:22 PM   #48
lucdog
Web Wheeler
 
lucdog's Avatar
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: , Il.
Posts: 7,856
Just mounted mine the other day. It came with a mounting plate, I used the frame brackets from the old winch. I cut off 2" from the outside of the plate, and added new gussets.

Bill

image-1487970984.jpg



image-1647358496.jpg



image-1342878151.jpg
__________________
1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
lucdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-12-2012, 06:39 PM   #49
82JeepCJ7
Registered User
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 4,776
Walker, now that I am home, I can see the pics you posted. Darn network at work doesn't show most of the pics...
__________________
Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
82JeepCJ7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-12-2012, 06:52 PM   #50
walkerhoundvm
Registered User
1981 CJ8 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: The Little Apple, KS
Posts: 3,090
Honest mistake...but I'm still confused that the older model 8274 steveo posted would have a clutch while mine doesn't...unless it was an SE thing to be without? It has the impression on the upper housing, just nothing there. I love it anyway!
walkerhoundvm is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-12-2012, 08:21 PM   #51
Trapshooter
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Jacksonville, Oregon
Posts: 2,309
Quote:
Originally Posted by walkerhoundvm View Post
Also - how do you know the year? Mine is a '79 and it hasn't got a clutch/free spool; I thought that was added in later years...
Unless someone filed off the code every 8274 has a serial number and code number. You can call Warn, give them the code and they should be able to come close to the year the unit was manufactured.

This is how I found out my winch was a 1979 model, which does have a clutch and free spool function. Don't know what to tell ya about your '79. They haven't change much over the years.
__________________
'86 CJ7, 258, Carter BBD, Nutter'ed, TeamRush'ed, T-18, Twin Sticked Dana 300, D30 Frt-Pwr Lok L/S-4.10, AMC 20 Rear-Mosers-Detroit Locker-4.10, 2.5 BDS Lift, 1" Body Lift, 33" Wild Country M/Ts, Black Spoke wheels

'45 CJ2A, L134 Go Devil, T-90 Tranny, Warn O/D, T-18 T-Case, Dana 25 Frt, Dana 41 Rear, 531st CJ made

My 401 build: [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/trapshooters-401-build-1338277/[/url]
Trapshooter is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-12-2012, 08:26 PM   #52
lucdog
Web Wheeler
 
lucdog's Avatar
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: , Il.
Posts: 7,856
Mine is from 1984, the serial numbers don't match anything I found on the web, mine does say 1984 on the motor plate. You might try moving the hose clamp for the control box.

Bill
__________________
1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
lucdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-12-2012, 09:01 PM   #53
walkerhoundvm
Registered User
1981 CJ8 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: The Little Apple, KS
Posts: 3,090
Thread jack off soon - there's actually a date build calculator on Warn's site, which is how I figured out mine is a 79...what I was more getting at was how the guy steveo might be purchasing one came about with a '77 build date.

So Trap - is yours an SE model? Wondering if that's a factor or if it was simply an option at the time.
walkerhoundvm is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-12-2012, 11:25 PM   #54
82JeepCJ7
Registered User
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 4,776
Seeing Lucdog's pics of his winch and cable, it reminded me of the ole saying "never saddle a dead horse" when putting on cable clamps. His are installed correctly. Here is a pic that helps explain it.



Quote:
When working with wire rope, it is extremely important that several guidelines are followed with regards to termination. Any time the wire rope needs to be attached to a hang point that would cause the cable to sharply bend, a device called a thimble must be used. Thimbles simply guide the cable into a natural curve shape and offer a degree of protection to the cable in the loop. To secure the end of the rope, wire rope U-clips are used. These clips provide an effective means for terminating cables, but must be used properly to be fully effective. Figure 4.3 shows correct and incorrect methods for applying these clips.

The correct sequence for applying U-clips to a piece of wire rope are described below:

Turn back the appropriate amount of cable from the end of the piece being worked on. This amount varies with the diameter of the wire rope, but is typically from 12 to 18 inches.
Apply the first clip nearest the very end of the cable. Always leave a couple of inches of extra cable beyond the clip. Be sure to apply the clip properly -- the U-bolt goes around the dead end of the cable, while the saddle goes around the live end. Tighten the nuts on the U-clip evenly, and to the torque recommended by the clip manufacturers.
If a thimble is being used, insert it into the loop, and then apply the second clip in the same fashion as the first, but only finger tighten the nuts.
Apply additional clips evenly between the first two clips. Two clips are usually sufficient for wire rope under 1/2 inch, but three are often used for safety. Wire rope of diameter 3/4 inch or greater requires four or more clips.
Tighten all clips to the recommended torque. Apply the load and re-tighten the clips. This re-tightening is important, as wire rope tends to shrink in diameter as load is applied.

Another method for securing the ends of wire rope is through the use of swages, or nicopress sleeves. Small metal sleeves are pressed on to the wire rope with a special tool. These sleeves are permanent, but act much in the same way that clips do. When properly applied, swages can hold the full rated working load of the cable they are attached to.
__________________
Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
82JeepCJ7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-13-2012, 10:15 AM   #55
bentring
Registered User
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: , Jackson TN
Posts: 230
^^^ good information to know, thanks
bentring is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-14-2012, 07:16 AM   #56
Bubba Ray
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 1,655
I do not have a winch yet but it seems like it would block airflow to your rad. Anyone have temp problems in the summer? Would 200 lbs sound right as total weight gain including mounts?
Bubba Ray is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-14-2012, 07:29 AM   #57
lucdog
Web Wheeler
 
lucdog's Avatar
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: , Il.
Posts: 7,856
About 160#
__________________
1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
lucdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-14-2012, 07:40 AM   #58
steveojeepster
Registered User
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Newton, MA
Posts: 110
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trapshooter View Post
Unless someone filed off the code every 8274 has a serial number and code number. You can call Warn, give them the code and they should be able to come close to the year the unit was manufactured.

This is how I found out my winch was a 1979 model, which does have a clutch and free spool function. Don't know what to tell ya about your '79. They haven't change much over the years.
There is a code towards the bottom of the data plate that contains two letters and one number. The letters correspond to the day and month of manufacture while the number is the last digit in the year. In the case of the one I'm considering it has a 7 indicating either '77 or '87 (this code method ceased in the 90's). I know this one is a '77 because the remote plug is metal. It was plastic in the '80s versions.

http://www.warn.com/blog/2011/03/02/...74_winch.shtml
__________________
'78 CJ7 - Fiberglass Tub - 258, T18, Dana 20, Dana 44 Rear - York OBA - Mild Lift & 33's - Team Rush & MSD

Misc Jeep Parts for sale - http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/pts/3581606905.html
steveojeepster is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-14-2012, 07:48 AM   #59
82JeepCJ7
Registered User
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 4,776
Never had an issue with cooling.
__________________
Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
82JeepCJ7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-14-2012, 07:54 AM   #60
walkerhoundvm
Registered User
1981 CJ8 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: The Little Apple, KS
Posts: 3,090
I've also not had trouble with cooling, but I've only had it on a week and we haven't hit extreme temperatures yet here in CO. Also have not been doing any slow crawling where there's not enough air flow to begin with.

I'd guess between my bumper, mount, and winch, the whole thing weighs just shy of #200, but the winch and mount come in somewhere around #120.
walkerhoundvm is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools






Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.