Let the games begin - new build 86 CJ7 - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 730 Old 07-19-2010, 10:53 AM
Coiz
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That Marine Clean does work good even diluted 5:1. I use it on all sorts of stuff. The frame looks great. This should be a good one to follow. Keep up the good work.


Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #32 of 730 Old 07-24-2010, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
Eaglekeeper
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Didn't get to work on the jeep at this week until today. Had to deal with network and computer problems at my part time job. I've been trying to get the Dana 30 put back together, but found I was missing a rotor seal. As luck would have it, no one in town had it in stock, so I had to order it. Figured it was a good time to paint the knuckles, hub and shock towers. 2 coats of epoxy primer and two coats of chassis black. Came out a little more glossy than I'd like, but bet they'll be easy to clean off.

Tomorrow the plan is to prime and paint the axle.
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post #33 of 730 Old 07-24-2010, 07:25 PM
Skerr
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Looking really good. When you did the POR system (I have the same one I think... quart bottles?) was the quart of Metal Ready enough to keep your frame wet?

Kerrdog
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #34 of 730 Old 07-24-2010, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
Eaglekeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Looking really good. When you did the POR system (I have the same one I think... quart bottles?) was the quart of Metal Ready enough to keep your frame wet?
Barely enough. I used the MR on a wet cloudy day and was able to keep up with the evaporation. If I had to do it again, I'd have a extra quart handy. Besides, now I need some more MR for other items and the paint shop is out, but will have some this week.
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post #35 of 730 Old 07-24-2010, 10:27 PM
yellow85cj
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With the shock mounts off, might be a good time to put a little drain hole (or 2) in the bottom. When I pulled mine the bottom was full of sand. And rust.

Only mention this since you painted them and need a little bare metal.

Currently in pieces - all of them
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post #36 of 730 Old 07-26-2010, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
Eaglekeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow85cj View Post
With the shock mounts off, might be a good time to put a little drain hole (or 2) in the bottom. When I pulled mine the bottom was full of sand. And rust.

Only mention this since you painted them and need a little bare metal.
Good call. Now that you mention it, when I pulled my mounts off, they were full of gunk with rust just starting. Luckily it was caught before any damage to the mount or frame. Thanks
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post #37 of 730 Old 07-26-2010, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
Eaglekeeper
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Finished the paint on the front axle. A few weeks ago I inventoried and inspected all the parts to go back on, but I missed the disk brake shields. Of course, one was trashed. Ordered from Morris and should be in 3 days or so.

Turned my attention to the rear axle. Once both axles were removed, one hub came off with little problem. The other, no way. No matter how much penetrant I used, pressed, beat, cussed, prayed would get the hub off. So, decision time...order replacement 2 piece axle or go with a with one piece axle.

Differential is in good shape, but probably will have to pop it out to clean out the tubes which are pretty well gunked up. Only other thing to do is replace the pinion seal.
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post #38 of 730 Old 07-26-2010, 03:47 PM
Skerr
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I put 1-pc in my 7. Mine only gets limited offroad use during hunting season. The original 2-pc was messed up when I bought it. It was a less expensive route to go back with the 2-pc, but then there was the chance it would happen again. For the money, 1-pc axles are one of the better purchases, IMO, that you can make. It's worth the piece of mind...

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #39 of 730 Old 07-26-2010, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
Eaglekeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
I put 1-pc in my 7. Mine only gets limited offroad use during hunting season. The original 2-pc was messed up when I bought it. It was a less expensive route to go back with the 2-pc, but then there was the chance it would happen again. For the money, 1-pc axles are one of the better purchases, IMO, that you can make. It's worth the piece of mind...
What manufacturer did you go with on the one piece axle? Any installation tips. Thanks for the help.
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post #40 of 730 Old 07-26-2010, 05:15 PM
Skerr
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Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
What manufacturer did you go with on the one piece axle? Any installation tips. Thanks for the help.
I got a set of Superior, NIB, for $180 from a friend who owns a shop. He mistakenly got the WT axles when he should have gotten NT for the 5 he was working on! He did the installation while I helped out... holding tools, etc! It looked pretty straightforward, and if you have that ability, I can't imagine you having any problems. I removed the carrier while it was opened up and cleaned out the inside of the housing... it was very dirty. I also rigged up a swab and took care of the inside of the axle tubes. They were nasty! I used LOTS of brake cleaner. I think Superior has a pretty good rep. I've never had any issues.

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #41 of 730 Old 07-28-2010, 06:41 AM Thread Starter
Eaglekeeper
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Ordered the Superior kit from 4x4GroupBuy.com for $219. Never dealt with this company, but it got good reviews from other this and other jeep sites.

Last night I pulled the diff and cleaned up the housing. While the diff was out I pulled the thrust block in preparation for a one piece axle as most posts say to do. I reviewed the install instrutions for this kit and it didn't say anything about removing the thrust block. If I need to re-install the block, no big deal, still have to prep and paint the axle, so I have time. Instructions were fairly generic so does it matter one way or the other about the thrust block?

Now I just have to get the gear oil stink off my hands--yuck
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post #42 of 730 Old 07-31-2010, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
Eaglekeeper
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Since my Jeep has 2.73 gearing, I figured I'd just have to suck it up and stay with 29 or 30 inch tires and little lift. I kept my eye on craigslist and got lucky this week. Advertisement just said 2 straight jeep axles for older jeeps. Called and went to check them out and there were 4 axles, 2 Dana 30's and 2 AMC 20s. We were out in a field and it was about 110, so didn't try to pull anything apart, but was able to tell one 20 had 2.73 gears, but the other 20 and both 30's were taller. Since I needed a backing plate for my good 20, figured I take a chance and bought all 4 for $200.

Both 30's had 3.73 gears and the diffs are in great shape. Popped one out and will install it in my just completed 30. One 30 had some decent warn locking hubs, but I'm not sure what if i can use the 6 bolt hubs in place of my 5 bolts. Need to search the forum and maybe post the question in it's own thread.

One 20 did have 2.73 gears and the other had 3.54's. Not too disappointed, since I can use the diff case and order up a 3.73 R&P.

I'll post the remaining good parts on craigslist or the JeepForum classifieds. I'm sure others can make good use of some parts.

4" lift and 33's....
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post #43 of 730 Old 07-31-2010, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
Eaglekeeper
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Here's the other thing I bought off craigslist, from the same person who had the axles. It was a "Oh, buy the way do you need a motor" question from the seller. My 258 has been at the machine shop for a few months in storage. The shop said to give them a few weeks notice before I need my engine and they'll get it done. Seller sold his CJ5 a few months ago and didn't get the chance to change out. He's moving, plus has a baby on the way, so he was ready to let it go for $750. Real nice guy who he had a impressive stable of new and older trucks and a cherry 69 Mach 1.

Motor I bought is a 258, new pistons, crank, cam, timing gear, oil pump, intake/exhaust valves and all machine work done. Price also included a 6 into 1 header and a Offy intake manifold and new head gasket. Receipt seller showed me totaled a little over $2,000. All I need to do is drop the head on, install the oil pan and timing cover, strip the orange color, paint it and it's ready to install when I get to that point in the build.

Now I have to go pick up my old motor from the shop. I'll at least get them to mic it out and inspect for cracks. If it's got good rebuild potential, I'll sell it cheap.
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post #44 of 730 Old 08-01-2010, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
Eaglekeeper
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I was able to get my original Dana 30 2.73 upgraded to 3.73 with one of craigslist axles without messing up the paint. I measured and used the same size shim packs and after the first pass with marking liquid, the pattern was very close. Added a few shims to the pinion and the pattern dropped right in the middle with good contact. Quickest setup I've ever been able to do. I sure hope the AMC 20 R&P change goes as easy.

Time to fire up the grill, throw the steaks on cool off with a nice cold Corona
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post #45 of 730 Old 08-01-2010, 06:48 PM
yellow85cj
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That exhaust manifold looks an awful lot like a 4.0. Is it a 4.0 head?



Currently in pieces - all of them
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