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Unread 06-10-2010, 07:23 AM   #16
Jim1611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
Success with the pics. Now for some experts help.

I'm working on the frame and except for the crossmember I removed, a little rust on the rear body supports and some bad nutserts, everything is in good shape except for a spring hanger. The inboard side of the hanger tweaked the frame. Measurements are all good and appears the only damage is small bend and a bent hanger on the inside. In the pic, you can see the bulge and is only on the side. The bottom of the frame is still in line.

What's the best way to repair and reattach hanger? I've seen various examples from cutting a fitted patch to adding doublers. Since I live in Florida, I don't expect to do any rockcrawling, just some sandy fun and daily driving.

My welding skills are weak so this will be a learning event for me (but fun).
You definately need to fix the frame where it's bent. My first thought is to get a couple of pcs. of flat steel, maybe 1/2"x4"x10", and sandwhich the frame in the area where it's bent with them. You'll need a couple of good strong c-clamps to apply pressure to the area that is bent. Put some heat to the frame where the bend is and apply pressure with the clamps to the 2 pcs. of steel that you have on both sides of the frame. Not enough heat though to cause the frame to change color though. It will take some time but you ought to be able to push the frame back to straight. Here's a picture of what I had in mind. After you get it staight you ought to weld a fishplate in the area that was bent. Bending and straightening will somewhat weaken the steel in that area and this will help keep it from bending again.

100_0087.jpg  
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Unread 06-10-2010, 07:13 PM   #17
Eaglekeeper
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Jim - Thanks. I haven't seen the procedure in other posts I've searched, but makes sense. I have the plate and clameps, so I'll give it a try this weekend.

DT - Started out in Avionics and then became crew chief.
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86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/let-games-begin-new-build-86-cj7-1046943/[/url]

A ton more pics here.
[URL="http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/"]http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/[/URL]
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Unread 06-11-2010, 06:57 AM   #18
DT5150
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cool. i was a boom operator on kc-135's (pic'd in your avatar) and on kc-10s.
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Unread 06-11-2010, 07:04 AM   #19
Jim1611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
Jim - Thanks. I haven't seen the procedure in other posts I've searched, but makes sense. I have the plate and clameps, so I'll give it a try this weekend.

DT - Started out in Avionics and then became crew chief.
You're welcome. Keep us posted on your progress.
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Unread 06-13-2010, 03:10 PM   #20
Eaglekeeper
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Tried to fix my tweaked frame with heat and bend, but didn't make any progress. So, just cut out the damage, cut a form fitted patch and fired up the welder.

Is the spring hanger areas known for cracking? With this type of repair, will I need to add a doubler to reinforce the repair?

Only other thing I accomplished this weekend was to blast the axles and transfer case housing. Man it was wicked hot out . I have some more minor work on the frame, but axles are the next focus. Kits should be here later this week. It's been a long, long time since I've tinkered with pumpkins. I've found some great ideas from other posts. I especially like the axle tube rooter fromhttp://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/da...52/index2.html

Time to crack open a cold one and sit in the pool.
dscf0297.jpg   dscf0299.jpg   dscf0300.jpg   dscf0301.jpg  
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86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/let-games-begin-new-build-86-cj7-1046943/[/url]

A ton more pics here.
[URL="http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/"]http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/[/URL]
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Unread 06-18-2010, 09:41 AM   #21
Jim1611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
Tried to fix my tweaked frame with heat and bend, but didn't make any progress. So, just cut out the damage, cut a form fitted patch and fired up the welder.

Is the spring hanger areas known for cracking? With this type of repair, will I need to add a doubler to reinforce the repair?

Only other thing I accomplished this weekend was to blast the axles and transfer case housing. Man it was wicked hot out . I have some more minor work on the frame, but axles are the next focus. Kits should be here later this week. It's been a long, long time since I've tinkered with pumpkins. I've found some great ideas from other posts. I especially like the axle tube rooter fromhttp://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/da...52/index2.html

Time to crack open a cold one and sit in the pool.
The patch looks good. I would put a brace over the top of that and yes that area, and the front are somewhat prone to cracking.
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Unread 07-08-2010, 07:24 PM   #22
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Making progress. Dana 30 is almost back together. Just need to sandblast the knuckles and put them on. As far as the frame, I coated the inside of the rails with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, patched two rusted body mounts and welded on the crossmember. Only thing left is to weld the doubler at the hanger repair. paint with POR-15 and topcoat with chassis black.

After the Dana 30 and frame, I'll reseal the AMC 20, prime and paint axles, order springs and be able to get it to a rolling chasis.

I'd like to be able to say I have some unique tip or process, but whenever I ran into a problem, I found what I needed searching the site and using posts from the experts.

Wifey is dragging me to Biloxi this weekend, so no playing on the jeep, but I get to visit my favorite Chinese tool store and enjoy a few adult beverages.
dscf0304.jpg   dscf0305.jpg   dscf0306.jpg   dscf0307.jpg   dscf0308.jpg  

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86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/let-games-begin-new-build-86-cj7-1046943/[/url]

A ton more pics here.
[URL="http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/"]http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/[/URL]
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Unread 07-08-2010, 08:19 PM   #23
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Wish I had your skills. Looking very good. Subscribed...
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"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" óSamuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 07-13-2010, 07:59 AM   #24
Eaglekeeper
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Back from a successful trip to Biloxi and got back to work. Haven't decided what I'm going to do with the transmission crossmember. For now, Iíll try to repair and use it. If it doesnít work out, Iíll build one. At some point in my jeeps life, a PO decided to do some hack job on the crossmember. For what, I have no idea.

First picture is what it looked like. The cutout was done buy some boob who must have bought a new torch. Not shown is the 1 1/2 inch of steel welded to each side of the crossmember. Bottom of pic you can see the metal split. The metal cut out with the torch weakened the structure and the mount flanges on the right are bent up.

Second pic shows the mount areas with the extra piece of steel cutoff and one of several extra holes drilled. Again, no clue what the PO was trying to accomplish.

Third picture. Wire wheeled, rebent the right side to lay flat with the frame. Cleaned up the cutout and found/welded another crack plus filled two of the extra holes. I need to pick up some more steel to repair the cutout. Pictures Iíve seen of other crossmembers show this area slopes down a few inches for driveshaft clearance. It should be interesting to figure out how to repair it. Since there were cracks and the metal was weakened, Iíll probably weld some additional metal strips to beef it up. In the frame hole, you can see the Rustoleum primer. Every hole I could see through, the coverage with thick and should prevent rust-out for a long time to come.
dscf0309.jpg   dscf0310.jpg   dscf0311.jpg  
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86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/let-games-begin-new-build-86-cj7-1046943/[/url]

A ton more pics here.
[URL="http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/"]http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/[/URL]
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Unread 07-13-2010, 08:14 AM   #25
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Great job and I look forward to following your progress
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Last edited by 243; 07-19-2010 at 11:56 AM..
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Unread 07-13-2010, 09:49 AM   #26
Eaglekeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
Great job and I look forwared to following you progress
Thanks. I've learned and copied some great ideas from your build. Looking forward to your next posts.
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86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/let-games-begin-new-build-86-cj7-1046943/[/url]

A ton more pics here.
[URL="http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/"]http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/[/URL]
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Unread 07-18-2010, 01:40 PM   #27
Eaglekeeper
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Finished the last bit of welding on the frame and got it painted this weekend. 3 coats of POR15 and 2 coats of chassis black.

I went a little overboard on the spray area setup, but figured it was a good time to do a test run for when it comes time to paint the body. Worked good, but learned a few things. Plus it was the first time I've used a HVLP gun. I'll never go back to canister guns.

Painting process.
1. Cleaned with Purple Power
2. Used POR Marine Degreaser. Huge difference once the degreaser was dried. Metal felt much smoother and cleaner. Good stuff.
3. Sprayed Metal Ready and kept misting for about 15 minutes to keep the metal wet. Third picture you can just make out the film or patina the metal ready left. After it sat up for a while, the frame was a bronze color.
4. Next day after the frame dried overnight, sprayed 3 lite coats of POR15 thinned to the recommended 5%. Didn't have to wait long for the POR to dry. Northern Florida temps 92 with humidity at 70%. Long sleeves, hood sock and respirator made me file like I was in a sauna.
5. Sprayed 2 lite coats and one heavier coat of Chassis Black. Last picture is just after I finished, so it hasn't flashed off much.

Next is install hubs on Dana 30, reseal AMC20, paint both, order springs and get it rolling. Tired of sanding, welding, prepping metal, it'll be good to get back to something with gears
dscf0314.jpg   dscf0315.jpg   dscf0316.jpg   dscf0318.jpg   dscf0319.jpg  

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86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/let-games-begin-new-build-86-cj7-1046943/[/url]

A ton more pics here.
[URL="http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/"]http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/[/URL]
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Unread 07-18-2010, 02:27 PM   #28
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Excellent work!

I bet you are a woodworker too
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Unread 07-19-2010, 06:12 AM   #29
Eaglekeeper
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Good catch. Woodworking will always be my favorite hobby, but I'm a gearhead at heart. Now that I'm retired from the military and not planning on moving again, I can acquire all the heavy tools I want to restore vehicles. Only problem is space. Trying to talk wifey into letting me put a workshop on the back acre so I can restore the jeep and occasionally do a little woodwork. She wants a vette, but says I will have to give up a spot in the garage to park it....I see a compromise about to take place
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86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/let-games-begin-new-build-86-cj7-1046943/[/url]

A ton more pics here.
[URL="http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/"]http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/[/URL]
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Unread 07-19-2010, 08:23 AM   #30
Zorty
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Looking good so far! I know I'll be checking back every few days to see the progress. That's one hell of a boat in the background
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