Let the games begin - new build 86 CJ7 - Page 11 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Let the games begin - new build 86 CJ7

The ULTIMATE "Selectable" Locker System! BroughRockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits WJ Modular Recovery & Bull Bar Relocation Packages

Reply
Unread 10-30-2010, 06:30 PM   #151
panman
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 78
see if you can get a dana 44 and scrap the AMC 20. VERY WEAK!!!pumkin spins in the tubes and well its just bad. as a matter of fact,theres a junkyark up here that has a 77 scout 2 with matching dana44s with 3.54:1 axles that can be had for $200 each if removed by you,but i could give you the info and you could talk to them about removal and shipping as i see your in FL. let me know.

panman is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-30-2010, 06:47 PM   #152
FamillyCJ7
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Middleburg, Florida
Posts: 1,019
Quote:
Originally Posted by panman View Post
see if you can get a dana 44 and scrap the AMC 20. VERY WEAK!!!pumkin spins in the tubes and well its just bad. as a matter of fact,theres a junkyark up here that has a 77 scout 2 with matching dana44s with 3.54:1 axles that can be had for $200 each if removed by you,but i could give you the info and you could talk to them about removal and shipping as i see your in FL. let me know.
I would love to have a D44 in mine but that's an extra cost that I just don't have the money for. The AMC20 is plenty strong with some work, some say they can be stronger than a D44. I'm planning on welding the tubes on mine and a truss, installing one piece axles, 4.10 gears and a locker and it should be plenty strong.

It's a shame that Warn don't make the full float kits for the AMC20 anymore, I'd love to get my hands on one.
__________________
'83 CJ7 258I6 4-Speed Father Daughter Project - Using Monstaliner/Chassis Saver and Products from CrabTreeTool
NorthEastFL4x4.com - Local 4x4 Enthusiasts website, join up now!
FamillyCJ7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-30-2010, 06:54 PM   #153
Eaglekeeper
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Panama City, Fl
Posts: 828
Quote:
Originally Posted by panman View Post
see if you can get a dana 44 and scrap the AMC 20. VERY WEAK!!!pumkin spins in the tubes and well its just bad. as a matter of fact,theres a junkyark up here that has a 77 scout 2 with matching dana44s with 3.54:1 axles that can be had for $200 each if removed by you,but i could give you the info and you could talk to them about removal and shipping as i see your in FL. let me know.
Thanks for the info, but the 20 will do for now. Not sure what's next after this CJ. Maybe tweak and upgrade it with 44's and different motor, or find another CJ to really ring out. I just want to be able to drive something topless next summer, besides my boat.
__________________
86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/let-games-begin-new-build-86-cj7-1046943/[/url]

A ton more pics here.
[URL="http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/"]http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/[/URL]
Eaglekeeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-30-2010, 07:02 PM   #154
Skerr
<*////><
 
Skerr's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs, Florida
Posts: 8,786
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
Thanks for the info, but the 20 will do for now. Not sure what's next after this CJ. Maybe tweak and upgrade it with 44's and different motor, or find another CJ to really ring out. I just want to be able to drive something topless next summer, besides my boat.
BINGO!! Ride now, mod later...
__________________
Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
Skerr is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-30-2010, 07:30 PM   #155
panman
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
Thanks for the info, but the 20 will do for now. Not sure what's next after this CJ. Maybe tweak and upgrade it with 44's and different motor, or find another CJ to really ring out. I just want to be able to drive something topless next summer, besides my boat.
ok. well if you change your mind on that set let me know and i'll send you the info.
panman is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-31-2010, 04:18 PM   #156
Eaglekeeper
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Panama City, Fl
Posts: 828
Spent the day stripping paint. Got just about all the tub coating and paint off. I can better see some of the problem areas. Once I got it stripped, I hit the entire tub with Osphro to stop any rust and protect it from building new rust. When it dried, I moved it into my garage. If it starts to flash rust, I have some rattle can primer I can shoot on it until I work that area.

The left rear fender has some serious bondo. I think with a little patience and persuasion, most of the fender can be worked out with just a little metal replacement.



Drivers floor pan is the worse area. The passenger and rear pans will need some metal. The bed, other than one section of the on top of the left wheel well where the corner panel well is in good shape.



Both Passenger and driver side have some rot below the door step.



Firewall is in really good shape.



Drying off and ready to move inside. Now the real work begins.



Need to do a little research on all the work by other members on the best way to start repairs. Plenty of great pics and posts to help me out.
__________________
86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/let-games-begin-new-build-86-cj7-1046943/[/url]

A ton more pics here.
[URL="http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/"]http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/[/URL]
Eaglekeeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-31-2010, 05:33 PM   #157
SonicR1
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: CenCal
Posts: 1,492
The pics make it look like a lot of surface rust, but nothing too major????
__________________
[COLOR="Red"]... I guess I'm gonna have to fix that too…….[/COLOR]

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/sonics-05-tj-build-1168663/#post10985489"][COLOR="yellow"]The TJ[/COLOR][/URL]
2005 Wrangler X 4.0/6 speed, Dana 30/Ford 8.8--4.88--Eaton E-Lockers, 35" MT/R, Smittybilt bumpers/rockers/winch, SonicFab tire carrier, RE 3.5 springs, Zone 1.25 BL, FullTraction 3 link upper rear, RE super flex lower rears, UCF ultra high skid and lo/pro mount, brown dog mml.

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sonics-74-cj5-build-1106795/"][COLOR="DarkOrange"]1974 CJ5 BUILD THREAD[/COLOR][/URL]
SonicR1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-31-2010, 06:43 PM   #158
Eaglekeeper
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Panama City, Fl
Posts: 828
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonicr1 View Post
The pics make it look like a lot of surface rust, but nothing too major????
The lighting is a little deceptive. I think what appears as surface rust is the dried Osphro before I washed it off. The rusted areas are the dark black that the Osphro converted. Everything else is clean metal, which surprised me. I expected a lot more problems.

BTW, did you know your links in your signature are broken?
__________________
86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/let-games-begin-new-build-86-cj7-1046943/[/url]

A ton more pics here.
[URL="http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/"]http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/[/URL]
Eaglekeeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-31-2010, 07:06 PM   #159
CjAl
Registered User
1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 658
that tub is in fine shape. All these CJ7's rust in the kick panel where the C channel support is flat against the sheet metal.




the amc20 is a fine axle with the upgrades mentioned. As for the old full floaters the amc 20 doesn't have enough tube thickness for them
CjAl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-31-2010, 07:12 PM   #160
Grewe02
Guns > Swords
 
Grewe02's Avatar
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, Kalifornia
Posts: 4,542
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
When it comes time to install the panel on the fender, I'm still looking into how I want to do it. Won't be welding them on, so it's either adhesive like Dave did, or some type of mechanical fastener. Working on fighters for the last 30 years, I've seen some neat ways to fasten panels so I'm going to look into rivets, hi-locs, etc. Maybe a visit to Fastenal will give me some ideas or possible someone has used or seen something that may work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
Still mulling over how I'm going to fasten the panels back on. I like the old school look of buttonhead rivets. Rivets around the perimeter of the panel and body adhesive in the center. If I can find the time, I'll use Photoshop to help me visualize the look with the rest of the jeep. Considered other specialty fasteners, but the tools required cost a fortune.
Since you're taking a break, this might be a good time to ask. After seeing yours and Dave's fender panel nightmares, what is the purpose of these panels? Why not just leave them off? If they're needed structurally, why not switch to a fender that doesn't have these panels? Haven't researched this yet, but I don't remember seeing these panels on a 7's fenders, and most definitely not on a TJ / YJ. My thinking is that it might be more cost effective to just replace the fenders with ones that don't use these panels.
__________________
Andy, KD8EIA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetscuh
I've had a crush on the Prius since it's debut. I got somethin' wrong upstairs.
Grewe02 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-01-2010, 11:54 AM   #161
Eaglekeeper
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Panama City, Fl
Posts: 828
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grewe02 View Post
Since you're taking a break, this might be a good time to ask. After seeing yours and Dave's fender panel nightmares, what is the purpose of these panels? Why not just leave them off? If they're needed structurally, why not switch to a fender that doesn't have these panels? Haven't researched this yet, but I don't remember seeing these panels on a 7's fenders, and most definitely not on a TJ / YJ. My thinking is that it might be more cost effective to just replace the fenders with ones that don't use these panels.
This is my first jeep, so I'm not the best person to answer, but you make a good point. I've never noticed a CJ7 without the panels, except aftermarket flatfenders, but wasn't looking for it. With all the Jeep smart members, I'd bet someone figured out a way to add metal behind or redesign the outer panel. I can tell you without the panel, the fenders have a lot of flex so they do provide reinforcement, plus a cosmetic side covering up a seam. I venture to guess the engineers added the panel for extra impact protection to comply with some govt regulation.

I could have ordered replacement fenders, but from what others have said, the quality of import fenders is low. I didn't mind rebuilding these as it gave me some good practice; it's been over 20 years since I've done any serious body work. I'm about 90% finished with the fenders, so if an idea pops up, I'll may go with it.
__________________
86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/let-games-begin-new-build-86-cj7-1046943/[/url]

A ton more pics here.
[URL="http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/"]http://s1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/E9Eaglekeeper/[/URL]
Eaglekeeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-01-2010, 12:00 PM   #162
CjAl
Registered User
1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 658
the two piece design is CJ& factory original. I don't know why, some say it's to reinforce the fender. There was aftermarkets for awhile years ago that didn't have it but the ones I see now have gone back to it. It's a serious rust trap in every CJ. I tok mine off yesterday and one blow with the end of the ratchet put the handle all the way through both panels. And the rest of my jeep has VERY little rust.

YJ fender are longr then CJ7, TJ are different all together
CjAl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-01-2010, 04:08 PM   #163
243
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,210
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
Spent the day stripping paint. Got just about all the tub coating and paint off. I can better see some of the problem areas. Once I got it stripped, I hit the entire tub with Osphro to stop any rust and protect it from building new rust. When it dried, I moved it into my garage. If it starts to flash rust, I have some rattle can primer I can shoot on it until I work that area.

The tub looks good meaning less work


Quote:
Originally Posted by Grewe02 View Post
Since you're taking a break, this might be a good time to ask. After seeing yours and Dave's fender panel nightmares, what is the purpose of these panels? Why not just leave them off? If they're needed structurally, why not switch to a fender that doesn't have these panels? Haven't researched this yet, but I don't remember seeing these panels on a 7's fenders, and most definitely not on a TJ / YJ. My thinking is that it might be more cost effective to just replace the fenders with ones that don't use these panels.
It would require a little work making the YJ fenders work with the CJ grill but then the nicer YJ flares would fit and you would get ride of the three piece fenders.
__________________
Measure twice, cut once, beat to fit and paint to match...
243 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-01-2010, 04:56 PM   #164
RoscoeJ
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Springfield PA
Posts: 236
What panels on the fender are you talking about?
RoscoeJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-01-2010, 05:02 PM   #165
Grewe02
Guns > Swords
 
Grewe02's Avatar
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, Kalifornia
Posts: 4,542
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoscoeJ View Post
What panels on the fender are you talking about?
Start reading here, there are a few more posts after this one that have fender rust pictures.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/le...l#post10220538
__________________
Andy, KD8EIA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetscuh
I've had a crush on the Prius since it's debut. I got somethin' wrong upstairs.
Grewe02 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.