Let the games begin - new build 86 CJ7 - Page 11 - JeepForum.com

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post #151 of 730 Old 10-30-2010, 07:30 PM
panman
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see if you can get a dana 44 and scrap the AMC 20. VERY WEAK!!!pumkin spins in the tubes and well its just bad. as a matter of fact,theres a junkyark up here that has a 77 scout 2 with matching dana44s with 3.54:1 axles that can be had for $200 each if removed by you,but i could give you the info and you could talk to them about removal and shipping as i see your in FL. let me know.

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post #152 of 730 Old 10-30-2010, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by panman View Post
see if you can get a dana 44 and scrap the AMC 20. VERY WEAK!!!pumkin spins in the tubes and well its just bad. as a matter of fact,theres a junkyark up here that has a 77 scout 2 with matching dana44s with 3.54:1 axles that can be had for $200 each if removed by you,but i could give you the info and you could talk to them about removal and shipping as i see your in FL. let me know.
I would love to have a D44 in mine but that's an extra cost that I just don't have the money for. The AMC20 is plenty strong with some work, some say they can be stronger than a D44. I'm planning on welding the tubes on mine and a truss, installing one piece axles, 4.10 gears and a locker and it should be plenty strong.

It's a shame that Warn don't make the full float kits for the AMC20 anymore, I'd love to get my hands on one.

'83 CJ7 258I6 4-Speed Father Daughter Project - Using Monstaliner/Chassis Saver and Products from CrabTreeTool
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post #153 of 730 Old 10-30-2010, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
Eaglekeeper
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Originally Posted by panman View Post
see if you can get a dana 44 and scrap the AMC 20. VERY WEAK!!!pumkin spins in the tubes and well its just bad. as a matter of fact,theres a junkyark up here that has a 77 scout 2 with matching dana44s with 3.54:1 axles that can be had for $200 each if removed by you,but i could give you the info and you could talk to them about removal and shipping as i see your in FL. let me know.
Thanks for the info, but the 20 will do for now. Not sure what's next after this CJ. Maybe tweak and upgrade it with 44's and different motor, or find another CJ to really ring out. I just want to be able to drive something topless next summer, besides my boat.

86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.

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A ton more pics here.

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post #154 of 730 Old 10-30-2010, 08:02 PM
Skerr
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Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
Thanks for the info, but the 20 will do for now. Not sure what's next after this CJ. Maybe tweak and upgrade it with 44's and different motor, or find another CJ to really ring out. I just want to be able to drive something topless next summer, besides my boat.
BINGO!! Ride now, mod later...

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post #155 of 730 Old 10-30-2010, 08:30 PM
panman
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Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
Thanks for the info, but the 20 will do for now. Not sure what's next after this CJ. Maybe tweak and upgrade it with 44's and different motor, or find another CJ to really ring out. I just want to be able to drive something topless next summer, besides my boat.
ok. well if you change your mind on that set let me know and i'll send you the info.
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post #156 of 730 Old 10-31-2010, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
Eaglekeeper
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Spent the day stripping paint. Got just about all the tub coating and paint off. I can better see some of the problem areas. Once I got it stripped, I hit the entire tub with Osphro to stop any rust and protect it from building new rust. When it dried, I moved it into my garage. If it starts to flash rust, I have some rattle can primer I can shoot on it until I work that area.

The left rear fender has some serious bondo. I think with a little patience and persuasion, most of the fender can be worked out with just a little metal replacement.



Drivers floor pan is the worse area. The passenger and rear pans will need some metal. The bed, other than one section of the on top of the left wheel well where the corner panel well is in good shape.



Both Passenger and driver side have some rot below the door step.



Firewall is in really good shape.



Drying off and ready to move inside. Now the real work begins.



Need to do a little research on all the work by other members on the best way to start repairs. Plenty of great pics and posts to help me out.

86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.

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A ton more pics here.

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post #157 of 730 Old 10-31-2010, 06:33 PM
SonicR1
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The pics make it look like a lot of surface rust, but nothing too major????

... I guess I'm gonna have to fix that too…….


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2005 Wrangler X 4.0/6 speed, Dana 30/Ford 8.8--4.88--Eaton E-Lockers, 35" MT/R, Smittybilt bumpers/rockers/winch, SonicFab tire carrier, RE 3.5 springs, Zone 1.25 BL, FullTraction 3 link upper rear, RE super flex lower rears, UCF ultra high skid and lo/pro mount, brown dog mml.


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post #158 of 730 Old 10-31-2010, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
Eaglekeeper
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Originally Posted by sonicr1 View Post
The pics make it look like a lot of surface rust, but nothing too major????
The lighting is a little deceptive. I think what appears as surface rust is the dried Osphro before I washed it off. The rusted areas are the dark black that the Osphro converted. Everything else is clean metal, which surprised me. I expected a lot more problems.

BTW, did you know your links in your signature are broken?

86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.

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A ton more pics here.

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post #159 of 730 Old 10-31-2010, 08:06 PM
CjAl
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that tub is in fine shape. All these CJ7's rust in the kick panel where the C channel support is flat against the sheet metal.




the amc20 is a fine axle with the upgrades mentioned. As for the old full floaters the amc 20 doesn't have enough tube thickness for them
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post #160 of 730 Old 10-31-2010, 08:12 PM
Grewe02
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Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
When it comes time to install the panel on the fender, I'm still looking into how I want to do it. Won't be welding them on, so it's either adhesive like Dave did, or some type of mechanical fastener. Working on fighters for the last 30 years, I've seen some neat ways to fasten panels so I'm going to look into rivets, hi-locs, etc. Maybe a visit to Fastenal will give me some ideas or possible someone has used or seen something that may work.
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Still mulling over how I'm going to fasten the panels back on. I like the old school look of buttonhead rivets. Rivets around the perimeter of the panel and body adhesive in the center. If I can find the time, I'll use Photoshop to help me visualize the look with the rest of the jeep. Considered other specialty fasteners, but the tools required cost a fortune.
Since you're taking a break, this might be a good time to ask. After seeing yours and Dave's fender panel nightmares, what is the purpose of these panels? Why not just leave them off? If they're needed structurally, why not switch to a fender that doesn't have these panels? Haven't researched this yet, but I don't remember seeing these panels on a 7's fenders, and most definitely not on a TJ / YJ. My thinking is that it might be more cost effective to just replace the fenders with ones that don't use these panels.

Andy, KD8EIA
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Originally Posted by Jetscuh
I've had a crush on the Prius since it's debut. I got somethin' wrong upstairs.
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post #161 of 730 Old 11-01-2010, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
Eaglekeeper
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Originally Posted by Grewe02 View Post
Since you're taking a break, this might be a good time to ask. After seeing yours and Dave's fender panel nightmares, what is the purpose of these panels? Why not just leave them off? If they're needed structurally, why not switch to a fender that doesn't have these panels? Haven't researched this yet, but I don't remember seeing these panels on a 7's fenders, and most definitely not on a TJ / YJ. My thinking is that it might be more cost effective to just replace the fenders with ones that don't use these panels.
This is my first jeep, so I'm not the best person to answer, but you make a good point. I've never noticed a CJ7 without the panels, except aftermarket flatfenders, but wasn't looking for it. With all the Jeep smart members, I'd bet someone figured out a way to add metal behind or redesign the outer panel. I can tell you without the panel, the fenders have a lot of flex so they do provide reinforcement, plus a cosmetic side covering up a seam. I venture to guess the engineers added the panel for extra impact protection to comply with some govt regulation.

I could have ordered replacement fenders, but from what others have said, the quality of import fenders is low. I didn't mind rebuilding these as it gave me some good practice; it's been over 20 years since I've done any serious body work. I'm about 90% finished with the fenders, so if an idea pops up, I'll may go with it.

86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.

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A ton more pics here.

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post #162 of 730 Old 11-01-2010, 01:00 PM
CjAl
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the two piece design is CJ& factory original. I don't know why, some say it's to reinforce the fender. There was aftermarkets for awhile years ago that didn't have it but the ones I see now have gone back to it. It's a serious rust trap in every CJ. I tok mine off yesterday and one blow with the end of the ratchet put the handle all the way through both panels. And the rest of my jeep has VERY little rust.

YJ fender are longr then CJ7, TJ are different all together
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post #163 of 730 Old 11-01-2010, 05:08 PM
243
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Originally Posted by Eaglekeeper View Post
Spent the day stripping paint. Got just about all the tub coating and paint off. I can better see some of the problem areas. Once I got it stripped, I hit the entire tub with Osphro to stop any rust and protect it from building new rust. When it dried, I moved it into my garage. If it starts to flash rust, I have some rattle can primer I can shoot on it until I work that area.

The tub looks good meaning less work


Quote:
Originally Posted by Grewe02 View Post
Since you're taking a break, this might be a good time to ask. After seeing yours and Dave's fender panel nightmares, what is the purpose of these panels? Why not just leave them off? If they're needed structurally, why not switch to a fender that doesn't have these panels? Haven't researched this yet, but I don't remember seeing these panels on a 7's fenders, and most definitely not on a TJ / YJ. My thinking is that it might be more cost effective to just replace the fenders with ones that don't use these panels.
It would require a little work making the YJ fenders work with the CJ grill but then the nicer YJ flares would fit and you would get ride of the three piece fenders.

Dave's 78 Build
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post #164 of 730 Old 11-01-2010, 05:56 PM
RoscoeJ
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What panels on the fender are you talking about?
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post #165 of 730 Old 11-01-2010, 06:02 PM
Grewe02
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Originally Posted by RoscoeJ View Post
What panels on the fender are you talking about?
Start reading here, there are a few more posts after this one that have fender rust pictures.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/le...l#post10220538

Andy, KD8EIA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetscuh
I've had a crush on the Prius since it's debut. I got somethin' wrong upstairs.
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