|
|
|
|
#1 | |
|
Registered User
|
Leaf spring I-bolt and bushing
Any suggestions how to get the main eye bolt out of the leaf spring/hanger assy? Fnt pass side is stuck - big time! BFH, heat, tons of lube including much "elbow greese". Frustrated to the point of getting the angle grinder out but I dont want to ruin the old leaf. Only thing I can think of is trying to get a saws-all in between the bushing and hanger.
Also, are the main leaf spring bushings supposed to be tight going into the new spring...Like bang them in with a hammer tight?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Registered User
|
a 5 pound maul, a long punch, and a trusting buddy to hold the punch while you swing the maul, and alot of penetrating oil, then when you are sitting in the ER talking about what a stupid idea that was you thought maybe if i cut the head off the other side I could spread the hanger out and drop the spring out completely, take it to the vice and have a more controlled swing at it, and worst case I could drill the bolt out.
It may seem like more work at the outset to remove the spring but its not that big a deal. they are pretty tight going back in, oh and a sawzall works but could put you in the same place as scenario with the big maul
__________________
[url]www.maxbilt.com[/url] Legends are Bilt! [email]sales@maxbilt.com[/email] [IMG]http://www.maxbilt.com/Images/TM_logo.JPG[/IMG] |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Registered User
|
Light a little propane torch and hold it on the main eye for a while, until the bushing starts on fire, then let it burn for a while. Once it's well burnt try hitting the bolt out again, it will eventually come out.
__________________
1977 Cj5, 258, T-18, 2.46:1 Dana 20, 2.5" BDS lift, OBA, 38.5's. Chevy 60 frt, 14b Rear, Full hydro, 102"wb, full DOM cage. |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Registered User
|
i had to cut one of mine out recently. the bolt just wouldn't move at all. combo of a sawzall and a cutting wheel, 30 seconds, done.
__________________
83 CJ-7. TBI Small Block Chevy 350/TH350/D300, Scout II Dana 44 front, CJ Dana 44 rear. 4" BDS Lift with 35's. |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Hockey Rules!
|
Once the nut was removed, I put an impact gun on the bolt head and hit it forward and reverse several times and that broke it free. Then hammer and punch to slide it out.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Web Wheeler
|
Cutting wheel for me. Much less swearing time involved.
__________________
Vibration? Bump steer? Wandering? Read: Steering, suspension, and driveline basics. An article on how it works and where to look for problems. 83 CJ7, 4.1L 6cyl (4.0L bored .030" over), 35" tires, T-5 transmission, Dana 300 TC, Trussed AMC 20. |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Lost and Not Found
|
I did the burning it out to the original rubber bushings. It worked on some. Others I used a sawsall and/or the grinder. Then you can get the left over bolt and bushing out of the spring easier if the springs are off the jeep if you intened to reuse the spring. And yes the bushings are tight to put in the spring eyes. Some grease and a rubber mallet work wonders.
__________________
1980 CJ 7--3" Black Diamond, 1" body, locked both ends, 4.56, 35x12.50x15 SS LTB, "family" cage It's easier to get forgiveness than permision. Salad is what food eats!!! http://emptypocketsoffroad.org/ |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Registered User
|
Got it, finally. Thanks-Saws All is always a last resort me but never ceases to amaze me how much time I could have saved in the first place.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
|
«
Previous Thread
|
Next Thread
»
|
| Suggested Threads |
|