leaf spring bolt

semaJ · 12-02-2009, 01:01 PM

So I am removing the leaf springs in an effort to get my 80's rolling chassis ready for sandblasting and powdercoating. Last night I started to remove the rear leaf springs and axl. with the help of PB blaster I got the shocks off no problem. The rear passenger side leafspring bolt (single one that holds the front of the leafspring in) came out nicely. The rear drivers side bolt is proving to be much more difficult. The nut is off and I can turn the bolt it takes effort but it just turns and wont unscrew out. I have tried whacking the ever living $%&T out of it but that wont work. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

**Mike Romain** · 12-02-2009, 01:25 PM

There is a sleeve in there to stop the bolt from overcompressing the bushing. This sleeve freezes to the bolt with rust. You might have to cut the head off and then use heat and/or drills to get the sleeve back.

Mike1084 · 12-02-2009, 01:27 PM

I'm surprised you even got one out. Those bolts typically tend to seize up. I usually get my angle grinder out and slip the wheel in between the hanger and cut it out.

semaJ · 12-02-2009, 04:48 PM

I was afraid of the angle grinder or heat deal. Oh well i guess i get to have some fun with it tonight. I will let you know how it goes.

**IronMaiden** · 12-02-2009, 05:23 PM

Use a torch and heat it up. It'll burn, sputter and make a black mess but that is really the easiest way to get them out.

I would not drill it if I were you. If you break the drill bit off (and you will - trust me) you'll have to end up burning it out anyway.

**chet44** · 12-02-2009, 11:10 PM

A guy I work with brought a leaf spring and the shackle hanger into work because he was in the same situation as you, he got the nut off but the bolt was siezed to the sleeve and the sleeve was locked into the rubber. I took a drill that was small enough to drill holes in the rubber between the sleeve and the leaf spring loop, which let the rubber around the sleeve collapse enough to spin (While pulling at the same time) it out with a pair of vice grips. You're going to put new rubber, bolts, and sleeves in there anyway.

**IronMaiden** · 12-03-2009, 07:22 AM

I've been doing this for ~30 years and I'm telling you the easiest way it to heat it with a torch.

The bolt will literally fall right out.

Sometimes you have to also cut the head (between the spring and shackle) off with a cut off wheel if you can't get the shackle to come off with the spring. Those cutoff wheels in a grinder cut like butta.

It can be messy, but it is WAY easier than drilling it out.

semaJ · 12-07-2009, 09:05 AM

well i got the rear ones out this weekend. Only broke 2 sawzall blades my helper buddy smashed his finger but at least it wasnt me.

So my next question is how do you know when your leaf springs are shot because I may not do a lift and go with a stock suspension as I have 31" tires and I really like the look of either a 2 1/2 inch lift and 33" tires or stock and 31" tires. It does look like I will need new shackels as I kind of mangled them in the removal process.

No_Bs · 12-07-2009, 06:05 PM

Burning them out is always the easiest way, and quite honestly, the safest. So long as they are not ridiculously rusted or bent, leafs are usually good to go.

**80cj** · 12-07-2009, 06:12 PM

Sawzall between the spring eye and bracket. Spread the bracket apart a little if you have to.