[bdb86cj]

Went to turn off the CJ and everything else turned off but then engine kept running. The check engine light stayed on as well(its always on because I have no VSS or Knock sensor). I pulled the battery cable to shut it off. I have an EFI set up, and I do have the diode installed on the alternator excite cable to prevent back feed(I think thats how it works). Any ideas?

[jcbjeep]

I replaced the diode inside the alternator fix my problem

[bigredisb]

Mine did the same thing when I went to a MSD ignition reguardless of the alternator. I just put a diode in the alternator excite wire and no more problems.

[79jeepincj7]

what size diode?

[TIPPEDITOVER]

Since you've already done the diode, check the ignition switch mounted on the steering column under dash to see if it's mounted securly and that the rod which actuates it is rigged properly.

[bdb86cj]

cant remember but its been working for months, which ever one Jeephammer said to use. ill try replacing it.

[86cj74.2L]

When mine did that it was a bad starter solenoid. The full voltage "I" contact broke and was on all the time.

[Outnumbered]

Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L

When mine did that it was a bad starter solenoid. The full voltage "I" contact broke and was on all the time.

X2

[bigredisb]

I never would have thought of that. Thats good to know.

[86cj74.2L]

Disconnecting the battery is the only way to turn it off. The duracrap module and coil will fry if you pull the coil wire or what not. They do not like being energized for a extended time period with out the engine running.

[bdb86cj]

well its either the ignition switch or the starter solenoid. When I reconnected the Batt, the ignition circuit was hot(the check engine light came on, the fuel pump came on) without the key even being in.

[TIPPEDITOVER]

Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L

When mine did that it was a bad starter solenoid. The full voltage "I" contact broke and was on all the time.

That is an excellent point. I saw that on the schematic. "I" contact normally gets connected to "S" contact during cranking of the engine to give the coil full battery voltage (aids in starting). When you release the key, they seperate and the coil is provided slightly reduced voltage and current through the red wire with white tracer.

I don't like how automakers sometimes have a single part do mulitple jobs. It's just begging for problems like this. There are much better ways to do it.

[Mickey_Mouse]

I had that problem happen and it was the rod going to the ignition switch.

[86cj74.2L]

Unfortunately the starter solenoid was the last thing I replaced. I did the switch first, it was so intermittent that I was never around when it happened. It always healed itself when I'd pull the battery cable to ohm out things.

Why is it always the last thing you do that fixes it rather then the first?

[bdb86cj]

I just replaced the start solenoid a few weeks ago, so doubt its that. I'm betting its something to do with the ignition switch or the rod thats in the column. When I drove it today it didnt give me any problems.