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Unread 06-11-2010, 11:07 AM   #76
jbanyas
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You can have my entire Carter carb and set up if you want. Let me know. Do the Motorcraft if you can.

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Unread 06-11-2010, 11:21 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
Did I say that? I do enjoy photography. It's the kind of thing where once you know a few basic concepts and understand how to use the camera correctly, it's easy to produce good images.

I'm still shooting with my old Fiji S7000 that I've had since probably 2004. It does take great photos in lots of different conditions.

Another JF member has stepped up to offer his old carb, so I should be seeing that in a few days. I also found a really cheap Carter BBD online so I'm keeping an eye on that too. I don't mind having a few spare parts, although I'm going to have to start a new box in the garage to store spare/old parts for the CJ.

See my response in your stepper pin thread....
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Unread 06-11-2010, 09:16 PM   #78
Ken4444
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I picked up a box of Napa/Belden cables at lunch:



When I got home I applied tuneup grease to the plug ends of the cables, installed them, double-checked the numbering and order, and went to fire her up.

The engine turned over...

..but didn't fire up.

@#$@! I was frustrated. I *just* went though this earlier in the week. Not again!

Before starting the real troubleshooting, I decided to check the basics: wiring order, horseshoe connector on coil, coil connection to distributor, reseated all of the plug wires. Nothing helped.

I turned off the lights in the garage and went in for dinner.

After dinner I returned to the garage and checked the basics again. I rembered having problems with the horseshoe connector on the coil in the past; the metal clips would sometimes come unseated. I pulled the connector and checked it.

Bingo.

The green wire was loose. Very disappointing for a new part. I pushed it back in place, reinstalled the horseshoe, then pulled it and examined it again to see if the green wire stayed in. It did.

I hopped back in the driver's seat, fired her up, and the engine came to life. After giving it a couple of minutes of QA, I drove it for about 4 miles.

What differences did I notice? I noticed several slight differences. The main difference was that it has a bit more pep. It runs a bit quieter. The exhaust is a tiny bit cleaner smelling.

The other thing I noticed, and this seems odd, is that when I shift gears, or I'm moving in 3rd or 4th gear and then shift into neutral and left off the throttle, the engine quiets down immediately. In other words, as soon as the load is disengaged from the engine and it slows down, it does so quickly and is then quiet. I may be reading too much into this. I don't know what would cause this, or if it's just in my head.

But, in general, the engine seems a bit more energetic. It doesn't seem to want to turn any faster than it did before, but the RPM range it is comfortable in seems a bit more peppy. I can live with that.

Tomorrow I will change the oil and change the fluid in the T5. The T5 will be a challenge because even with the hose I got that connects to the trans fluid jug, I don't know how easy it'll be getting the new fluid in the fill hole.
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Unread 06-11-2010, 09:35 PM   #79
nedmoore
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Way to go Ken! Must been music to your ears when it fired up!
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Unread 06-12-2010, 06:01 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nedmoore View Post
Way to go Ken! Must been music to your ears when it fired up!
Thanks. I was a relief when it fired up.

I also failed to mention that the Team Rush Upgrade also made the paint more shiny, the lift taller, and it eliminated all of the rattles from the whole CJ.

Just kidding..
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Unread 06-12-2010, 08:06 AM   #81
Louie4
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Ken,

After working on my buddies CJ-7 and practically rebuilding the motor and doing the carb work the biggest thing that helped improve the performance was adding several additional grounds. We noticed a huge difference. If you haven't done so I'd recommend it. I don't know if they did much different between the '81's and '85's.
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Unread 06-12-2010, 03:43 PM   #82
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Today I set out to change the oil and the transmission fluid. I tackled the trans first. Draining the transmission fluid was fairly simple.

Getting the new fluid in was a big challenge. I didn't have a fluid transfer pump but I did have a 12" plastic tube that screwed onto the top of the gallon jug of GL4 gear oil. The problem was that I couldn't elevate the jug above the level of the fill hole. That problem was solved by pulling off the transfer case boot and feeding the fill tube though the hole where the boot was and down to the fill hole on the transmission. Sounds simple, right? There were 2 problems. First, the nozzle on the end of the fill tube kept slipping out of the fill hole. Second, there was no easy way to get air into the oil jug, and the oil would stop flowing.

By this time I had gear oil all over me, my arms, the garage floor, and a few spots in the cab, but hadn't put any substantial amount into the trans.

I decided to put that on hold and change the engine oil and filter. I knew I could do that easily. That was done in 15 minutes with no surprises.

Back to the trans: Instead of attaching the plastic fill hose directly to the gear oil jug, I decided to use it as as funnel. I also removed the plastic tip from the hose so I could feed the hose several inches into the transmission. That would help keep it from slipping out. Working from above, I could see the hose entering the fill hole so I would know when the transmission was full.

This worked. In about 10 minutes I was able to get the oil into the trans. I started with a gallon of oil and was able to get about 3/4 of it in. I did end up with about a cup of spilled oil.

Cleaning up after the engine and transmission oil changes took another 15 minutes or so, but I was glad to have it done.

The old engine oil was dark. It must have had at least 8,000 miles on it. The old transmission oil looked great: like honey.

For engine oil I went with JeepHammer's reccomendation: Shell Rotella T, 15W40. This stuff isn't any more expensive than the usual kinds. I was only able
to find it in gallon jugs, but I needed 5 quarts, not 4. So I had to buy 2 jugs and had about 3 quarts left over for next time.

For the T-5 transmission, I used 85w90 gear oil meeting the GL4 standard, part number SL24239. This is supposed to be compatible with the brass synchro rings. The PO had used 30 weight motor oil in the engine, which isn't unheard of.

Here are few images to make this post more interesting:

T-5 drain and fill holes:







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Unread 06-12-2010, 04:00 PM   #83
SlikRic
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Ken, did you remove the shifter plate to fill the tranny?
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Unread 06-12-2010, 05:22 PM   #84
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Quote:
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Ken, did you remove the shifter plate to fill the tranny?
Nope. I filled it through the fill hole as shown in the first photo.
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Unread 06-12-2010, 06:37 PM   #85
dtcohen
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I thought you were supposed to run ATF in the T5's
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Unread 06-12-2010, 06:48 PM   #86
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtcohen View Post
I thought you were supposed to run ATF in the T5's
I'm confident that a GL4, 85w90 gear oil is the best fluid. Here are some references:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/t-5-fluid-995219/

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/co...1/#post9519313
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Unread 06-12-2010, 08:42 PM   #87
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Since I've had this CJ, the rearview mirror has been a problem. It's mounted to a piece of sheetmetal that allows the whole thing to vibrate when I'm driving. It's basically unuseable and I've been meaning to fix it.

After looking at replacement mirrors for an '85 in different places, I have no idea which mirror it originally had. After taking apart the PO's rig and examining the mounting holes, now I really have no idea about what the original factory mirror looked like.

Would the original mirror have been mounted on the windshield?

Can anyone shed any light on what it should look like?

Here's the PO's rig:



Here's my improved, but still temporary, rig. It should prevent or reduce the shaking problem:



I tried screwing the mirror directly to a mounting hole, but the angle was wrong and I couldn't see out the back, even after adjusting the swivels on the mirror. So I still had to use a bracket that would allow the mirror to be angled up slightly.
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Unread 06-12-2010, 08:53 PM   #88
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I'm going to pull some rear view mirror hack as well, I'm going to J.B. weld the mount just to the driverside of the footman's loop.
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Unread 06-13-2010, 09:16 AM   #89
Ken4444
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Since I got the Jeep, I had been seeing an assumulation of rust flakes under the back side driver's seat. I kept cleaning them up but they kept reappearing. I finally stuck my head under the seat to see the deal, and saw that two of the main strauctural pieces of the seat were as rusty as a junkyard Willys. I left the seat in the Jeep, wire brushed the areas I could reach, vaccumed them, cleaned them, and hit them with some Eastwood rust converter.

Yesterday while working on the trans and engine oil changes, I noticed a dime-sized hole in the small pipe that comes off the main exhaust pipe This small pipe is about 8 inches long and is terminated with a crimp. maybe it's used for California emissions? Anyhow, it had been spraying exhaust on the side of the oil pan for long enough that I was able to flake off some pieces of black soot from the side of the pan.

I sanded the pipe, cleaned it with pain thinner, dried it, and then applied two layers of exhaust tape that I happened to have. Clearly this is not a permanent fix but perhaps it will buy some time and clean up the emissions a bit too. Will post pics later.

Back to the spare tire mount: I was unhappy with the latch mechanism of the spare tire mount. I hurried to paint it which resulted in a large drip and a side that was left mostly unpainted. This morning I removed it, stripped it almost bare with orange stripper and it's now sitting with a second coat of orange stripper. Hopefully the second attempt will be be a better quality job.
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Unread 06-13-2010, 09:31 AM   #90
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Not to change the subject, but why can't you fill the tranny with fluid through the dipstick? Does it not have one being a manual transmission?
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