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Unread 12-04-2011, 08:06 PM   #841
SKT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444

Back to Jeeps...

My CJ is now officially out of commission because I can't drive it since it's in pieces.
Ken,

Glad to see that you're diving into the CJ again!

Looking forward to following along, and appreciate your detailed write-ups...like always!



.

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Unread 12-04-2011, 10:40 PM   #842
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Hey Ken. You are finally at that point. No more just talking or thinking about it! That is so cool how you got the bolts out. I'm glad you posted the pics. So many things you have done that have been profitable to so many. It's not a major issue, but have you considered making a rebuild thread? Your refurbishment thread is just that, with a ton of useful info. I have a feeling your build will have those same characteristics. In my opinion it would be nice to separate them for reference use.
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Unread 12-05-2011, 08:42 AM   #843
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...but have you considered making a rebuild thread?
This latest round of work is the same kind of work as before. I'm not rebuilding the CJ. I'm just doing more fixes. I just have to remove everything from the interior to fix and repaint it. With this current round of work my main goals are:

- Repair rust holes in tub interior
- Strip and repaint inside of tub with the original color
- Repair holes in dash panel and repaint it to original color
- Move tweeters onto the dash panel
- Move temp and fuel gauges onto the dash panel
- Reupholster the subwoofer cabinet to fix problems with the origial job

While I'm doing all of this, I'd love to put in tan-colored seats and upholster the subwoofer cabinet to match, but I can't see spending that kind of money when my current seats are perfectly fine.

I hope to have the CJ back on the road by the end of February when the spring weather rolls in.

I'd love to have the opportunity to do a full CJ build, but I just don't have the space, time, and money right now.
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Unread 12-05-2011, 08:53 AM   #844
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I admire your gumption, Ken !

Rich
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Unread 12-05-2011, 12:13 PM   #845
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Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
I admire your gumption, Ken !
x22!
If I ever find rust like that on mine, I think I would have to consider other options.
My 5th weld came out pretty good tho!
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Unread 12-05-2011, 12:24 PM   #846
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Alright, another Jeeper headed off into the deep end of the pool
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Unread 12-05-2011, 12:29 PM   #847
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Quote:
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I admire your gumption, Ken !
Rich
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeus87gn View Post
x22!
If I ever find rust like that on mine, I think I would have to consider other options.
My 5th weld came out pretty good tho!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
Alright, another Jeeper headed off into the deep end of the pool
Hey, you guys are scaring me. How hard could it be to weld in some new sheetmetal? Someone remind me I said that in 3 months when I've run into a dozen odd problems with this.
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Unread 12-05-2011, 01:16 PM   #848
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you got this no problem, Ken...btw, my valve cover still holding tight, no leaks...
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Unread 12-05-2011, 04:00 PM   #849
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Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
Hey, you guys are scaring me. How hard could it be to weld in some new sheetmetal? Someone remind me I said that in 3 months when I've run into a dozen odd problems with this.
I wouldn't know.
I've never tried a butt weld...much less with sheet metal.
I've only done fillets.
I have learned that if you turn down the power a tad it makes for a smaller bead and supposed to be good for sheetmetal.
I've also learned that you ahve to weld in different spots to keep the sheet from deforming from what you started with.

Never fear, I'll be here in 3 months to make fun of you!
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Unread 12-05-2011, 05:36 PM   #850
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Hi Ken it's people like you that made me want to become part of this forum. your write up on the rear brakes was so well detailed with pictures. I found it better than my haynes manual. Keep up the great work. Thanks.
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Unread 12-05-2011, 08:53 PM   #851
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Hi Ken it's people like you that made me want to become part of this forum. your write up on the rear brakes was so well detailed with pictures. I found it better than my haynes manual. Keep up the great work. Thanks.
Many thanks! I really appreciate the kind comments!

Tonight I did more removal: seat with stereo equipment under it and related wiring, seat belts, steering wheel, moved roll bar to back yard, trans tunnel cover, shifter boots, subwoofer cabinet, and other small stuff. Basically almost everything except for things attached to the dash. Here are some camera phone pics:







I had never taken off the transfer case knob before because it was rusted on. I had to cut off the lower part of the vlnyl part of the knob and then use the 18" pipe wrench on the metal threaded inner part of the knob. It came off without too much complaining after it saw the wrench.

I'm going to have to bring home boxes from work to hold all of the parts. They're piling up fast.

The kids had a blast playing in the evacuated tub.

If you've been following this thread from the beginning, you may remember that I replaced the boot for the T-5 shift lever early on. That boot fell apart after about a year. Thanks Omix-ada.

Amazingly, the transfter case boot is still solid, but it has white paint overspray all over it from the PO. I took a chance and cleaned it tonight with acetone, figuring that if it was real rubber, it would resist the chemical. So far it appears to have worked.. the acetone took the paint spots off and didn't appear to damage the rubber. I need to get more acetone assuming the thing hasn't turned to a pile of sludge tomorrow. This is a $30 part new (probably not worth it from Omix) so I'd like to make the existing one work. I suspect it's the original boot.
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Unread 12-05-2011, 11:25 PM   #852
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Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
Hey, you guys are scaring me. How hard could it be to weld in some new sheetmetal? Someone remind me I said that in 3 months when I've run into a dozen odd problems with this.
I wasn't referring specifically to welding in new sheet metal, I was admiring your determination in removing those bolts!

Rich
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There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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Unread 12-06-2011, 08:56 AM   #853
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I wasn't referring specifically to welding in new sheet metal, I was admiring your determination in removing those bolts!

Rich
ah, okay. Yes, some of those bolts were stuck pretty well after 25+ years.
The thing that bothers me about welding a nut onto a bolt head is that you don't necessarily know what metals the nut has in it (stainless, nickle-plated, zinc-plated, etc). There a lot of health risks associated with welding already, but welding unknown metals isn't a good idea

It's possible to grind the faces and sides of the nut to remove the plating, but that misses the whole point of using the nut which is that you can weld the inside (threaded part), which can't be ground down. Plus, welding the inside of the nut prevents you from getting a great angle to the MIG gun because it's hard to see in there. So that's why I started welding on mild steel rods and bars.

Plus, all of that work was a good reminder that you can weld the holy living daylight out of 2 pieces and they won't stick together if you don't have any penetration. On most of those bolts, I would always wonder what was going to give first: The rusty bond or the welds on the bolt head
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Unread 12-06-2011, 09:13 AM   #854
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ah, okay. Yes, some of those bolts were stuck pretty well after 25+ years.
The thing that bothers me about welding a nut onto a bolt head is that you don't necessarily know what metals the nut has in it (stainless, nickle-plated, zinc-plated, etc). There a lot of health risks associated with welding already, but welding unknown metals isn't a good idea

It's possible to grind the faces and sides of the nut to remove the plating, but that misses the whole point of using the nut which is that you can weld the inside (threaded part), which can't be ground down. Plus, welding the inside of the nut prevents you from getting a great angle to the MIG gun because it's hard to see in there. So that's why I started welding on mild steel rods and bars.

Plus, all of that work was a good reminder that you can weld the holy living daylight out of 2 pieces and they won't stick together if you don't have any penetration. On most of those bolts, I would always wonder what was going to give first: The rusty bond or the welds on the bolt head
You could also weld on a short bolt (threaded part of new bolt, to head of rusted-in bolt) then put a wrench on the head of the new bolt.

Quite often, if you can get as much weld as you can when welding the two bolts together, the heat from the welding will loosen the rust bond of the stuck-in bolt... like heating a frozen, rusted nut with a torch.

Rich
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There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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Unread 12-09-2011, 09:23 PM   #855
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Continued disassembly..

I'm making slow but steady progress on the disassembly. Tonight I completed the removal of the dash panel which pretty much completes the removal of interior parts.







Here we see the dash panel out of the Jeep:



The back of the panel is in good shape with only a few areas of surface rust:



Here's a bid scar from the PO: A large piece of metal that was bent back instead of being removed when the dash was cut for a modern stereo:



Here's the original glove box! I plan to remove it and either buy an aftermarket one or weld one up from 16 gauge steel. Let me know if you want the old one. It's not perfect, but it's it's good enough that I was still using it to hold gloves, CDs, and my maintenance logbook.







That's where she sits now.

The next step is to figure out how to get the wires free from the light bulbs in the speedometer housing. Once that's free, then I can temporarily tie up the wiring to get it out of the way, then start on the paint removal.

Unfortunately tomorrow (Saturday) I have to fix our steel driveway gate which is leaning and dragging on the driveway when it opens and closes. It could be worse; I don't mind spening a day welding and working with steel, conrete, and rebar. It's going to wear me out though.
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