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Unread 07-23-2011, 09:07 PM   #781
mvigo
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Ken,

the best picture is of the frosty soda...cold, quenching, great tasting beer jumped out of the compter, it's so good, once it hits your lips, it's so good!!

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1985 CJ-7, fuel injected 258, 2.5" Rubicon Express Extreme Duty Lift, 1" Body lift, Crabtree Shackle Hangers, T-5, Dana 300 w/ 4:1 Teralow kit, Dana 30, AMC 20 w/1 piece axle, 3.73 's with Detroit Truetrac front and rear, riding on 32x11.5x15" Cooper Discoverer STT mud terrains
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Unread 07-24-2011, 11:33 AM   #782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeCJ7 View Post
Ken - Great photos of Galveston! I was there years ago and loved it.
Galveston is a good place. It doesn't have the same quality of beaches as Florida or elsewhere, but it's only 60 miles from Houston and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg to spend some time there. When I was a kid if high school, we'd drive down there for the day and hang out in the sand and spend some time doing some of the local tourist stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
You are gonna love that DUI!! Here was my experience installing it... hopefully it helps. Once Shawn posted his pics and I changed my #1 post it was a snap. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ne...butor-1209690/
Paul
Thanks for the link. I read the thread a few times. The one thing I'm not 100% clear on at this point with the DUI is how to be sure I do or don't need any shims. The DUI installation directions describe how to check for this, but without a video I'm just not understanding it. The whole point is to make sure that the distributor doesn't bottom out and press too much against the amshaft gear, but untill I actually preform the replacement I probably won't really know how it's supposed to fit.

On a sepatate note, I have been watching all of the episodes of Monster Garage which has been semi educational. Obviously those people are throwing things together so fast that it's more of a show about how NOT to do things, but at the same time it demonstrates how there is no magic to how things work as long as you have some skill and understanding. A great example was taking hydraulic fittings off the snow mobile rig to use for a hydraulic steering rig, or converting the Vette into a 4x4. The funny part on that was the use of a chain and two gears for a transfer case. I can't imagine that would hold together too long. Because of the style in which the show is produced, they leave out a lot of detail, for example, such as how to deal with the transmission shifter when the engine and transmission were moved to the rear of the wheelie ambulance.
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Unread 07-24-2011, 08:48 PM   #783
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Shameless promotion - stainless hex screws

I was cleaning off the workbench today and sorting through the aftermath of parts from assorted Jeep and remodeling projects and ran across a bag of stainless steel hex screws I used to fill the 5 small holes in my valve cover. These holes are used to attach the brackets for the factory air cleaner housing and were of no use to me, so I put some short screws in the holes purely for the cosmetic value.

These are #10-24 x 1/4", 304 stainless, hex cap head, with matching washers.

I'll send you a set of 5 screws and washers for $4 including postage if you can pay with Paypal. PM me if you're interested. Clearly you can get them cheaper per piece if you can find them locally, but if you buy them online the shipping cost is always the kicker.

I'm offering them here because I don't need them, and maybe this will save someone the time of trying to line up the correct parts.

Here's what they look like:







The workbench really is clean!

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Unread 07-25-2011, 09:11 PM   #784
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As promised, here are pics of the completed master bathroom remodel. I just finished up some details tonight. I will just post 1 before pic and 1 after pic.

You can read the whole story and see the whole project documented here.
masterbathbefore1.jpg   final-1.jpg  
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Unread 07-25-2011, 09:49 PM   #785
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Nice work, Ken!! Love the granite you selected.
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Boom's CJ-7 Project (Completed in 2011) http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/bo...oject-1085653/
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Unread 07-25-2011, 09:54 PM   #786
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Ken - Nice job on the bathroom re-model.

As stated by boomvader the granite is killer.

Also - I have never seen a tile floor with a 1.5 inch concrete underlayment!

Wow - Your house is built!
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Unread 07-25-2011, 10:36 PM   #787
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Great looking job on the bathroom, Ken! Very professional looking!

Rich
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Unread 07-26-2011, 06:10 AM   #788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeCJ7 View Post
Also - I have never seen a tile floor with a 1.5 inch concrete underlayment!
This is the way I understand it: My house was built in 1970 and the concrete slab has 1.5" recessed areas for all of the tiled areas (except the kitchen, which originally had vinyl tile). The original ceramic tiles were then set on 1.5" of mortar, as opposed to a 1/4" layer of 'thinset' mortar what is now commonly used in the states to set tile.

It's my understanding that it is common in europe (and probably other areas) to still set tile using the 'mortar bed' method. I suspect it's a whole lot easier and cheaper to pour a new concrete slab for a home if it's flat in all areas, as opposed to making some recessed areas, so that might explain why the thinset method is used here now.

Anyhow, being a tile novice and wanting to stick to the standards and products available here, I had to fill in that 1.5" gap before installing the time. So I filled it with concrete and steel. I did the same thing when I re-did our half bathroom several years ago and it worked out OK in there.
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Unread 07-26-2011, 08:05 AM   #789
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I got lost when I got to the cold one by the beach. But the build is looking great and the bathroom looks great too!

See for you other guys without that significant other there's a give and take to getting Jeep stuff done. I had to get a pool put up before getting back to working on my Jeeps.
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Unread 07-26-2011, 10:37 PM   #790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjoe View Post

See for you other guys without that significant other there's a give and take to getting Jeep stuff done. I had to get a pool put up before getting back to working on my Jeeps.
Oh...you got that right!! I couldn't have said it better myself!

Rich
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'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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Unread 07-27-2011, 09:00 AM   #791
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Quote:
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Oh...you got that right!! I couldn't have said it better myself!

Rich
And don't forget about that little thing called a job that gets in the way too.
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Unread 08-06-2011, 10:29 PM   #792
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DUI HEI install

I installed the Davis Unified Ignition (DUI) HEI last weekend. The DUI HEI is made by Performance Distributors.





This post isn't so much as "how to" writeup as it is just a documentation of my experience. I ran into some problems during the install process due to my own inexperience. Unfortuately all of these photos only show the steps leading up to the actual install. I will give as much detail as I can about the trouble I ran into, however.

The DUI HEI replaces several parts of the stock ignition system:
  • Ignition coil and horseshoe connector
  • The ignition module (silver box under the coolant bottle)
  • Distributor
The DUI is also designed to connect to the manifold vaccum for advance, instead of the ported vacuum as is commonly used.

Here we see the wires to the stock horseshoe connector:



Here we see the wires and connector leading to the stock distributor. You can see the wires were spliced as part of the Nutter Bypass:



Here's my Team Rushed distributor cap:



The wiring has been disconnected from the coil:



Here's the stock hold down clamp for the distributor. It has to be removed to get the dist out:



The DUI directions tell you to mark the position of the rotor before you remove the old dist. Here I have put two white soapstone marks on the valve cover:



Here's the old dist:



Here's the hole where the dist goes. You can see the gear inside:



The remains of the old gasket between the dist and the engine block.. the DUI comes with a new gasket.



Here's the new unit:



Here's the inside (distributor cap removed):



The DUI comes with a new hold down clamp, gasket, and 2 electrical connectors (one for power to the unit, and another for connection to a tachometer)



I lined up these parts for the install: New Autolite 985 spark plugs, 12 gauge copper wire, heat shrink tube, and a connector reccomended by Jeephammer in this post

The connector fits into the 2 prong connector that goes to the stock ignition module (silver box). From this new connector, you run a 12 gauge wire to the DUI. This accomplishes a couple of things (see Jeephammer's post), and serves as an easy way to get power to your DUI. Note that the DUI install directions aren't Jeep specific, so there is no guideance about how to deal with Jeep-specific issues.



The 12v+ and tach connectors included with the DUI are OK, but it's not clear how to correctly assemble them. Here we see the correct positioning of plastic and metal parts. It took me probably 30 minutes of soldering and cursing and re-working to get these dang things right.



So, that's it for the photos.

During the install, I followed the DUI install directions as exactly as possible. I spent probably 30 minutes installing and reinstalling the new distributor and was never able to get it to line up correctly. It never seemed like it was lining up right. I finally got it in, but when I went to fire up the engine it would not start. It made some strange noises but never fired up normally. Clearly there was a problem.

I posted to JF to get help, and it was obvious that I was going to have to find TDC (top dead center) of the compression stroke on cylinder #1. That was the only way to make sure the distributor was in sync (timed correctly) with the other parts of the engine. This was the first thing to do.

Finding TDC isn't as difficult as it may sound. I used the chopstick method:

1) Remove all spark plugs.
2) Remove distributor.
3) I already had the battery disconnected.
4) Find a wrench that fits on the crankshaft pulley. I used a 10" Crescent wrench, because there was not enough room to get a socket in there.
5) Use the wrench to turn the engine clockwise a little bit at a time.
6) put your finger over the spark plug hole for cylinder #1. This is the one closest to the radiator.
7) When you feel pressure in the #1 cylinder that pushes your finger off of the hole, then you've found the compression stroke.
8) Put a chopstick (I used a bamboo BBQ skewer) into spark plug hole, but don't get it go. You should feel it hit the piston.
9) Continue to rotate the engine and the chopstick should push upward. BE careful because the chopstick will tend to bind up since it's in there at an angle. You may need to pull it out slightly while you're rotating the engine.
10) When the stick ceases to move upward, then you've found TDC. YOu might have to turn the engine the other way to lower the stick downward and then bring it upward again to be sure about the TDC position.
11) Once you have TDC, look at the timing marks and see if the hash mark (white line) is near the 0 on the timing scale.

Once you have TDC, then the DUI can be installed. You need to know one really important conceptat this point:

The rotor must be pointing to the terminal (in the distributor cap) for spark plug #1 (or just before the terminal).

It is my understanding that it is traditional to have the #1 terminal toward the bottom of the distributor, so I postioned the rotor pointing down (away from the engine) and stuck the DUI into the engine block. When you stick the dist in the engine, te rotor will turn a few degrees because of the helical gears meshing.

Again, the trick is to know exactly where the rotor is pointing, and stick the cap on so that terminal #1 is on the rotor. This ensures that spark plug #1 will fire on the compression stroke of cylinder #1 which ensures that everything is in sync.

The big mistake I made during the failed (first) install was this:

When the distributor is installed and the cap is on, you can turn the distributor, but the ROTOR DOES NOT TURN. It stays stationary. So if you turn the distributor to some other place, then terminal #1 isn't lined up correctly and nothing's going to work right becuase it's all out of sync.

I suspect that my original install attempt would have worked if I had understood this concept.

If you read other posts of how-to's about installing distributors, people will often say that you need to make a mark on the distributor body. The main goal to accomplish, assuming you've found TDC for #1 (on the compression stroke), is that the rotor needs to be in line with terminal #1 on the distributor cap. How you get it to line up is up to you. (eyeball it, mark the body, whatever)

There is one other confusing thing here:

The distributor shaft also serves as a means to drive the oil pump. The tip of the dist shaft looks like a flat head screwdriver, and fits into an accompanying slot inside the engine. The position of that slot in the engine does NOT relate at all to the timing or the position of the distributor. The problem is that you may be unable to get the distributor seated all the way because that slot isn't lining up. BUT, this is easily fixed because you can turn the slot without having to worry about goofing up the timing. You can use one of two methods:

1) Stick a screwdriver into the distrubutor hole in the engine, and turn the slot to the position you need.

or

2) Instal the distributor as far as it will go, then use your wrench to turn the engine 2 full rotations. This will bring you back to TDC, but it will allow the oil pump slot to fall into place with the dist shaft. This is the Jeephammer method. If you note the hash mark's position to the timing scale numbers, you can be sure you've done 2 complete rotations and be sure you're back at TDC.

So, to sumamrize again, find TDC, figure out whre you want your rotor to be, look in the engine to see where the oil pump slot is, turn the slot to be where you need it, then stick the distributor in. Again, since the gears are helical, the rotor is going to turn a few degrees when you stick it in. This doesn't really change anything; you just need to know where the rotor is pointing once you get the dist all the way in, and then make sure temrinal #1 on the cap lines up.

One last important detail to handle when you install the distributor: make sure the dist shaft is not bottoming out when it's all the way in. This means that there should be some up and down play in the shaft so that it doesn't bind up with the camshaft gear. This is easy to check: When the dist is all the way in, you should be able to pull up on the rotor and feel it pull and down up a bit. THe DUI instructions advise you to do this check WITHOUT the gasket. Then when you install the gasket, that buys you even a bit more clearance. The directions also advise to use shims if you don't have any play here.

Once you get TDC, get the dist in, get the cap on, then you can proceed on:

I gapped my new plugs to .045 per Jeephammer's reccomendation, installed them, and then ran the plug wires to the dist using in this order:



The wiring portion of the job was pretty simple. I soldered my 12 gauge wire to the aforementioned connector that Jeephammer reccomended, and soldered one of the DUI connectors to the other end. I ran my tach wire to the other DUI connector. I removed the old igntion module (silver box), coil, horseshoe connector, and some of the associated wiring.

Finally, I re-worked the vacuum lines by routing the DUI to the manifold vacuum and capping off the ported vac that was used previously.

Oh, then hook up the timing light and set it to maybe 8*. You will need to do this, because the chopstick method of finding TDC isn't super accurate.

After all of this, I fired her up again and it worked! What a relief.

So, after the expense and the work, how does it run? I've never had major problems with my 258. The upgrades I've done in the last year (Nutter, Team Rush, Carter BBD rebuild, MC2100, etc) have always given me small or medium, noticeable, good benefits. The DUI gives me a slightly quicker engine start. It also lets the engine rev higher, but the one HUGE difference is one I never expected: My Jeep will now has an incredible amount of power at freeway speeds. It's never run this good. I can get it up to 45 MPH quickly, and take it from there to 65 MPH like a modern vehicle. Before the DUI, it would take over a minute to get from 45 to 65, and now it's doing it in about 15 seconds.

This new found power at freeway speeds really changes what I can do with the Jeep. It will now be a lot easier to drive longer distances because it's just more responsive at fast speeds and just feels like it's running right.
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Unread 08-06-2011, 11:46 PM   #793
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Congrats Ken! Nice work & great write up!

I am planning to but the DUI setup for the 304 in my 7.

Thanks again for the info from your the DUI installation.
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Unread 08-09-2011, 02:50 PM   #794
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Additional thought on DUI install

In my DUI installation post, I originally wrote:
I suspect that the reason is the change in vaccum advance mechanism to one that uses manifold vac. This distributor is designed for manifold vac, whereas the original dist was designed for ported vac AND the additional advance that the computer added in. The computer was of course removed during the nutter bypass, resulting in a loss of advance.
At the urging of Jeepforum member Mcmud, I opened up my Chilton's manual and consulted the vacuum diagrams for my '85. That diagram says the same thing as Dale's diagram here: http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/vacuhose.htm

Both diagrams show that the original stock distributor advance connects to the manifold "M" vacuum and not the ported "S" vacuum.

To be honest, I don't know how my distributor advance was plumbed when I first got my CJ. The Nutter Bypass has you connect the distributor to the ported vacuum source and that's how mine ended up.

A few months ago, I did do some driving for a few days with my stock distributor connected to the manifold vac, but I never drove it faster than about 35 MPH so it wasn't a complete test.

Anyhow, I my original statement that my stock distributor was originally designed for ported vacuum was false, based on the vacuum diagrams I've seen. So I wanted to point out my error and make a correction.

My 258 continues to give me great performance. The combination of the MC2150 and DUI are a solid improvement.

I haven't been ablle to get any good gas mileage numbers because of the leak in my gas tank. If I fill the thing more than about 3/4 of the way, it leaks, and I don't have the time or energy to undertake that project at this time. I would like to downgrade to a 15 gallon tank just because it's smaller and less bulk looking (and I don't need 20 gallons anyhow), but the 15 gal tank would require the whole compliment of external check and rollover valves and well as a mounting plate in the wheelhouse. So it's not a cheap or quick project.
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Unread 08-20-2011, 07:01 PM   #795
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Great thread Ken4444!
It's very inspiring!
Since I stumbled upon it a few days ago, I bought a wire wheel
and wire wheeled/rust converted/mineral fluid/primed/repainted
several parts off my '83 CJ7.
So far I did the top of the air cleaner housing, the mirrors and arms with brackets, spare tire swing out,
and the spare wheel.
I use Rustoleum Automotive primer and Satin Black paint (both rattle can).
Tomorrow I plan to tackle the jack and bracket, battery tray, and windshield frame.
Thanks for the great write up and many pictures!
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