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Unread 06-04-2010, 09:50 PM   #61
DCHCJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
I mean that in a positive way, your CJ is nice so I would not try to bridge holes with filler even gorilla hair. I am also not saying DCHCJ7 is wrong, I would just take take the extra step and you will still need to skim coat it after the sheetmetal work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
My plan with the rust has been to do a patch job a best I can, and then plan to make more permanent fixes later in the future.

Right now I'd just like to get it running again
Which is why I suggested it.

I cut and welded new metal for all the visible rust in mine but then i had a baseball size hole and several golfball size holes. I still have work to do on the underside of the body, but it can wait. But a quick fix (what i thought you were going for) my suggestion is valid. you can always grind and cut it out later.
Otherwise i would expect to have it off the road for a couple more months as from past experience, once you start, you cannot stop.

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Unread 06-04-2010, 09:54 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
The upper radiator hose was developing a bulge so I dropped in a new one. I bought a Gates brand thinking that was a quality name, but I really have no idea if they're any good or not.
Gates hoses are just fine. Company has been around for many many years and I have seen them on just about everything.
Goodyear is another good one.

Have you check for dirty contacts at the wire connectors? I had this problem with mine, several connector had slight corrosion, quick sand on the contact and all was good.
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Unread 06-04-2010, 09:58 PM   #63
VACJ7
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That line is the bowl vent line to the charcoal canister. Connection all the way to the right in this pic.
evap.jpg  
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Unread 06-05-2010, 08:08 PM   #64
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The 258 is turning over but not starting. I started a thread about it here to see if anyone has any ideas:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/25...spark-1045702/

In the meantime, I pulled the battery tray and will refinish that.

For the blinkers, I confirmed the bulbs in the rear turn signals are the correct type. (Thanks to Mike Romain) The Quadretec catalog also confirms this. I cleaned the 3 pin connector on each of the tail lights and put in some dielectric grease. The single flasher unit near the fuse panel seems to control both blinkers. The fuse panel does have a socket for a flsher for the hazard lights but it's empty. This might explain why the harzards don't work.
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Unread 06-06-2010, 11:42 PM   #65
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nice work Ken, you seem to be knocking a little off the "to do" list each day. I have dropped my gas tank 1 too many times and I will be doing it again here in the next few weeks...very, very simple and much easier if there is little or no gas in the tank. I am replacing my old, worn out, beat up fuel tank skid plate with a beefier one from Max-Bilt so that is why I am dropping the tank...
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Unread 06-07-2010, 08:52 AM   #66
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With the help of Jeephammer and Mike Romain, I'm still troubleshooting the no ignition issue. The possibilities are being narrowed down.

Yesterday I pulled the spare tire carrier, hinges and latch and refinished those. The paint is still curing on all that. The original rubber bump stops on the carrier were of course shot. It took me a while to get them off because the screws were so far gone. I picked up some replacement stainless steel screws to go with the new bump stops that came in last week. All 50 of them. Let me know if you need some.

Before I reinstall the spare tire carrier, I will pull the tail lights and use rubbing compound/cleaner/polish/wax on the rear paint.

I will post before/after pics of the tire carrier after I get it reinstalled. I am still gearing up mentally for the rust hole body work. Once I get the engine running again I will have more time to think about it.
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Unread 06-08-2010, 09:25 PM   #67
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After 4 days of troubleshooting and working through some logical steps to test things, I finally tested the wiring for the ignition module, coil, and distributor. This checked out OK. Then JeepHammer suggested I bypass the computer using the Nutter Bypass. Eliminating the computer from the situation was basically the last main thing to do.

Bingo! This fixed it. I ran through the whole Nutter Bypass procedure and still need to tweak the carb settings.

Last night I polished the paint on the rear of the Jeep. Tonight I'm hoping to get the tail lights and spare tire carrier back on.
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Unread 06-09-2010, 12:28 AM   #68
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Way to go Ken! The biggest reward, for me anyway, is "fixing" something that you have little experience with by using the info provided by friends on JF. You are diligent... keep it up!
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Unread 06-09-2010, 12:42 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Way to go Ken! The biggest reward, for me anyway, is "fixing" something that you have little experience with by using the info provided by friends on JF. You are diligent... keep it up!
+1
Ken definitely did his homework! I would have given up on the first or second day and had it towed to a shop!
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Unread 06-09-2010, 06:43 AM   #70
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+1
Ken definitely did his homework! I would have given up on the first or second day and had it towed to a shop!
This occured to me more than once, but I kept asking myself, "Is a modern auto shop even going to know how to fix a 25 year old Jeep? And even if they do, what's it going to cost?"

Taking the computer out of the loop seemed like a rational thing to do, because it was the one component that I was generally unable to troubleshoot. You can't just put a test light or ohm meter on it and learn if it's good or bad.
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Unread 06-10-2010, 10:50 AM   #71
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Update: The stepper motor pins in the Carter BBD have been molested. One is missing and the other one appears to have been cut off.

This post has photos and details.

The Jeep runs fine but still needs a carb that can be tuned correctly. If you happen to have a set of stepper motor pins, parts for a BBD, or a complete BBD, let me know. I have lined up a couple of possibilities but would prefer to just get the pins if possible.

This weekend I'm planning on replacing the T5 fluid, installing the Team Rush upgrade, and changing the engine oil. I got the tire carrier reinstalled and still need to post the photos for that.
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Unread 06-10-2010, 07:43 PM   #72
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I'm really liking my MC2100 that I installed in place of my Carter, and I highly recommend it, but I may have the parts you are looking for if you want to stay with the Carter. PM me if so...
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Unread 06-10-2010, 10:02 PM   #73
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Team Rush begins

I did the Team Rush Upgrade tonight, with one exception. Here are the parts I started with. The experienced amongst you will recognize the fatal flaw.



Here's a shot of the general area before starting. I have already replaced the horseshoe connector on the coil:



I started on the spark plugs first. I should have learned from my spark plug changing days with my 1992 Chevy Pickup with the 350 V8: I sliced my hand more than once on the heat shield that was between the spark plugs and the exhaust manifold. Once the plug came loose and the ratched wrench popped, the edge of the heat shield was dangerous. Here I cut myself on the bracket under the air filter housing:

Note to self: Wear gloves next time.



Here are two of the plugs showing corrosion on the heads. I've never seen this much corrosion before. How about you guys?



The condition of the other ends of the plugs looked consistent and good from what I can remember. No black, no oil, no unusual colors, just a slight grayish/light-brownish coating:



Here's the new coil, new distributor adapter and new rotor. Luckily the old rotor was pointing right where the wire for plug #1 was:



Here's the new cap after labeling it:



Here's a super close-up shot of the tip/nose of the old rotor. I don't know if this is typical of an old one or not, but clearly it's had some wear and pitting:



The fatal flaw? I got the wrong spark plug wires. I got the perfect wires to connect to a *stock* AMC 258 distributor. Unfortunately, that's not what this engine has now.

As soon as I realized wires wouldn't fit onto the cap terminals, I instantly realized my mistake. It was a letdown not to be able to fire the engine up, and there was no way I was going to use the old wires, even temporarily.

If I'm lucky I can find the right ones tomorrow locally. There are only about 35 auto parts stores within 5 miles of my work and home.
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Unread 06-11-2010, 08:41 AM   #74
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Ken,

You told me you were a great photographer and that was an understatement! Thanks for the updates as they are very helpful. If I still had my BBD I would have just given it to you! I went fuel injection and never looked back...
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Unread 06-11-2010, 09:39 AM   #75
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvigo View Post
Ken,

You told me you were a great photographer and that was an understatement.
Did I say that? I do enjoy photography. It's the kind of thing where once you know a few basic concepts and understand how to use the camera correctly, it's easy to produce good images.

I'm still shooting with my old Fiji S7000 that I've had since probably 2004. It does take great photos in lots of different conditions.

Another JF member has stepped up to offer his old carb, so I should be seeing that in a few days. I also found a really cheap Carter BBD online so I'm keeping an eye on that too. I don't mind having a few spare parts, although I'm going to have to start a new box in the garage to store spare/old parts for the CJ.
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