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Unread 04-14-2011, 09:41 PM   #661
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Nice job Ken! If/when you ever decide to go to one-piece axles it will be a breeze for you!

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Unread 04-15-2011, 08:22 AM   #662
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Great write up as usual! I will most certainly be following this in the near future. Thanks for taking the time. A good read this morning.
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Unread 04-16-2011, 09:08 AM   #663
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Thanks for the comments, everyone.

I've been driving on the re-adjusted Carter BBD all week and man, what a difference! The BBD ran fine before, but now the 258 cold starts every time like it's warmed up. I also have more power, and I can cruise down the street at 35 MPG in 5th gear at about 1100 RPM. Before, she was never really happy in 5th gear except at freeway speeds. Now I find myself using 5th gear any time I want to maintain any speed over about 30 MPH and I have a good stretch of open road in front of me. There is of course no real acceleration in 5th because it's not designed for that, but I can easily maintain moderate speeds in 5th.

I also find myself sometimes getting stuck behind other vehicles at traffic lights who are moving a bit slower than I am, which is new. The CJ is no modern vehicle in terms of power, but she now has one notch more power than before.

No word yet on the MPG.

In other news, I'm still waiting on the studs for the valve cover replacement. I have half of them, and the gasket. I'm on the fence about using RTV or no RTV in conjunction with the gasket. Most of the posts I've read seem to reccomend using RTV, but I'm tempted to go without it, just to see what happens. What do you think?
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Unread 04-19-2011, 10:24 AM   #664
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WOW. Just got done reading all 45 pages that I started on yesterday. Very informative, and inspirational. Makes me want to leave work, and go do something on mine!

Thanks for taking the time to take and post pictures, along with very detailed, easy to understand details on what you did.

If you ever feel like working on someone elses, take a ride about 5 hours east, and Ill boil crawfish for you. Bring some home brew, Ill cook, and drink your beer, and you can fix my CJ
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Unread 04-19-2011, 11:04 AM   #665
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Great job on the write up Ken...and the trick to removing the e-brake cable is to slip a box end wrench over the cable, 7/16" or so and it will compress the splines

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Unread 04-19-2011, 11:20 AM   #666
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[quote=243;11394194]Great job on the write up Ken...and the trick to removing the e-brake cable is to slip a box end wrench over the cable, 7/16" or so and it will compress the splines

HEY 243 and Ken, I need direction on how to adjust my parking brake.

I was out at boat ramp and heard a loud pop.

The pedal released and I had a situation as they say on my hands. Jeep and boat rolling backwards.

BTW my cell phone did dry out after a few days. LOL

It holds but does not make me feel comfortable.
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Unread 04-19-2011, 11:39 AM   #667
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Index to major projects in this thread

Here is an index to the projects that are documented in this thread. The goal here is to enable you (and me) to find something quickly. This is not meant to include everything I have done on the Jeep. It includes the more major jobs and leaves out most of the cosmetic work. The jobs are generally listed in chronological order.

Spare tire repaint

Switch from 33 to 31" tires

Team Rush install

T5 boot replacement

Bypass hose install

Shock absorber install

Heater box disassembly

Heater box rebuild

Apply new Jeep vinyl decal

Valve cover replacement (first attempt)

Clutch bellcrank replacement

Post Nutter bypass wiring removal

Stereo Install part 1

Stereo install part 2

Stereo install part 3

Stereo install part 4

Stereo install, next part (part 5)

Stereo install, Epicenter (part 6)

Stereo install, cup holder for subwoofer enclosure

Gas tank removal

Gas tank reinstall and sender install

Brake light switch replacement

AMC 20 differential fluid fill

Tire carrier rattle / hinge bolt fix and bracket fabrication

Engine belt replacement

Disc brake service, part 1

Disc brake service, part 2

Drum brake service, part 1

Drum brake service, part 2

Axle inner oil seal replacement

Valve cover install, attempt #2

Exterior paint sanding and refresh

Exhaust system replacement

GM tilt steering column repair

Davis Unified Ignition (DUI) HEI distrubutor install

Start of tub repair work - Sport bar bolt removal

Tub interior paint stripping - part 1

Tub interior paint stripping - part 2

Tub interior paint stripping - part 3

Tub interior paint stripping (tail gate) and sheetmetal removal

Tub repair - sheetmetal removal

Tub sheetmetal repair - welding prep and welder setup

Tub sheetmetal repair - actual welding

Tub sheetmetal repair - stripping, welding, body filler

Tub sheetmetal repair - continued body work

Tub sheetmetal repair - continued body work #2

Dash panel repair and restoration

Tub interior - primer and paint

Tub interior - reinstall everything

Custom seat belt extensions

Interior restore - Before and after photos

Crabtree shackles and rubber bushings

Brass heater hose adapter fittings

Dana 300 fluid change

Water pump replacement

15 gallon fuel tank parts #1

15 gallon fuel tank parts #2

15 gallon fuel tank install

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #1 (driveshaft removal)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #2 (new clutch parts)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #3 (u-joint removal, driveshaft clean and paint)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #4 (T5 removal)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #5 (T5 removal, more)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #6 (clutch and bellhousing removal)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #7 (Dana 300 cleaning)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #8 (Dana 300 painting)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #9 (Bellhousing cleanup)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #10 (Oil pan removal and repaint)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #11 (T-5 reinstall)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #12 (Dana 300 reinstall)

Oil pan reinstall

AMC 20 differential cover gasket replacement

Spare wheel re-strip and re-paint

Master Cylinder prep work

Master Cylinder install

Tatton's front driveshaft

Rear view mirror custom mounting bracket

Body mount bushing replacement: new bushings

Body mount bushing replacement: washers

Body mount bushing replacement: Installation

Brake booster removal

Brake booster installation

Speedometer disassembly and assembly

New radiator

Skyjacker Softride 2.5" springs

Skyjacker Softride 2.5" springs - part 2

Aluminum side trim removal, cleaning, reinstall

Aluminum side trim removal, cleaning, reinstall - part 2

Exterior body rust repair - hole under windshield hinge

Exterior body rust repair - hinge removal, donor sheet metal

Exterior body rust repair - removing the big holes

Exterior body rust repair - patching in the donor triangle

Exterior body rust repair - fitting more new metal

Exterior body rust repair - fitting more new metal, 2

Exterior body rust repair - rear corner dent repair

Exterior body rust repair - Hood rust, under the hinges

Exterior body rust repair - Hood rust removal

Exterior body rust repair - Welding in metal

Exterior body rust repair - Primer and reassembly


(I will work to maintain this list from time to time, however it is often out of date.)
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Last edited by Ken4444; 03-20-2014 at 09:22 PM.. Reason: Updated March 20, 2014
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Unread 04-20-2011, 04:21 AM   #668
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Timely photos!

Ken,
As I was looking over the rear end of my CJ I saw an exact replica of your picture with the gear oil dripping down the rear tire...your photo saved me a lot of time and WTF!?! questions about diagnosing the problem. As soon as the seals come in I'll be following your procedure almost verbatim (a buddy of mine has a slide hammer). Thanks for sharing the work you are doing!

-Ken

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
Here's a head scratcher, although you experienced mechanics will probably be able to explain it:

Yesterday I started the passenger side AMC 20 innerl axle seal replacement. As part of the process, I kept the passenger side of the axle higher than the other side to prevent the differential oil from leaking out while I was working. I completed the replacement last night but I was out of energy, so I left the drum brake reassembly for this morning.

I went out to the garage this morning and was 99% with the drum brake reassembly and I saw this, on the other side of the axle, which had been sitting at an angle all night:



I also saw this leak from the pumpkin, just off center:



My first thought was that I was going to have to repeat the whole process on the driver's side of the axle. Good thing I bought two inner axle seals!

What I can't figure out is why have I never seen this leaking before? It must have something to do with the axle being at an angle. Maybe the seal is leaking above the level where the oil usually sits. In any case, clearly that side needs service too.

At some point I considered just driving her down to a shop that can work on a Jeep axle and have them look at it, replace all of the seals, and make an experienced inspection of whatever else might need to be done.

I will post a detailed writeup on the inner oil seal replacement. I took a lot of photos and learned a lot in the process. I ran into one snag an JF bailed me out. I also tested my new drum brake skills and was able to reassemble that without any problems. I have no idea if the new seal is holding, but it won't take more than a few days to see.

The lawn is mowed, shrubs are pruned, the CJ is back together (for now), garage is clean, and tonight we're grilling Jamaican jerk pork ribs and a steak and having that with homemade vinegar cole slaw, and a couple of homebrews. Photos to follow.
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Unread 04-20-2011, 06:11 AM   #669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbcj7 View Post
...Makes me want to leave work, and go do something on mine!...If you ever feel like working on someone elses, take a ride about 5 hours east, and Ill boil crawfish for you. Bring some home brew, Ill cook, and drink your beer, and you can fix my CJ
When my kids are a bit older, We're planning to go to Mardi Gras in New Orleans again. My wife and I used to go there every year before we had kids and always loved it. Looking forward to going back.

I was looking for some photos from back then, but I think they're all analog...Photographed on 35mm film and printed on paper.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1976s View Post
As I was looking over the rear end of my CJ I saw an exact replica of your picture with the gear oil dripping down the rear tire...your photo saved me a lot of time and WTF!?! questions about diagnosing the problem. As soon as the seals come in I'll be following your procedure almost verbatim (a buddy of mine has a slide hammer). Thanks for sharing the work you are doing! -Ken
It's always good to know my work will help others.

What I've realized about CJs (or any old vehicle, really), is that they're always going to need some kind of work, somewhere. I think that's what drives people to do complete restorations in order to minimize the endless work of repairing things year after year.

But most people aren't in the situation drive a fully restored CJ, so we have to put up with the continual string of repairs. I am OK to know that things will continue to wear out on my Jeep as time ticks on. Afterall, no vehicle, new or fully restored, is immune from the laws of physics.
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Unread 04-22-2011, 07:24 PM   #670
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What am I thinking?

I saw an all tan JK yesterday that immediately caught my attention. Usually the JKs don't do anything for me (I really don't like the fender flares, or the grilles, or the abundance of plastic) but this one really did it for me...

..but $34,000 MSRP? Ouch. I could have a hell of a fleet of CJs for that price.
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Unread 04-25-2011, 07:58 PM   #671
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Thinking ahead to the next work I'll be doing on the CJ, here's what I have lined up:

1) I have to pull off the front wheels and install the paper seals between the locking hubs and the wheel hub. While I'm up there, I need to bend the hub nut washers. Also, I think I will repaint the hub locking mechanisms because those look pretty bad. I had avoided doing this the first time around because I wasn't prepared for it, but I have a good plan in place now and I think it'll be a good cosmetic improvement and will give some protection to the aluminum housings. So that's a good half day of work that won't cost much money; Just time.

2) I finally rembered to buy the 99 cent anti-rattle / equalizer / strut spring for my driver's side drum brake assembly. So I have to pull that wheel off again and practice my drum brake skills again.

and, oh....

3) In spite of the success I've had with the Carter BBD, I ordered a Motorcraft 2150 and Moroso 8.5" air filter housing. My hope is to squeeze better MPG out of the 258. I also have serious doubts about my carburetor after the last go around with the base mix screws after learning from Mike Romain that the result of my adjustments was totally opposite from what is expected. If I was alone on a desert island with no other option, I could live with the BBD, but I keep thinking "Why not try it?" I feel like a kid on Christmas eve.
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Unread 04-25-2011, 09:14 PM   #672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
Thinking ahead to the next work I'll be doing on the CJ, here's what I have lined up:

1) I have to pull off the front wheels and install the paper seals between the locking hubs and the wheel hub. While I'm up there, I need to bend the hub nut washers. Also, I think I will repaint the hub locking mechanisms because those look pretty bad. I had avoided doing this the first time around because I wasn't prepared for it, but I have a good plan in place now and I think it'll be a good cosmetic improvement and will give some protection to the aluminum housings. So that's a good half day of work that won't cost much money; Just time.

2) I finally rembered to buy the 99 cent anti-rattle / equalizer / strut spring for my driver's side drum brake assembly. So I have to pull that wheel off again and practice my drum brake skills again.

and, oh....

3) In spite of the success I've had with the Carter BBD, I ordered a Motorcraft 2150 and Moroso 8.5" air filter housing. My hope is to squeeze better MPG out of the 258. I also have serious doubts about my carburetor after the last go around with the base mix screws after learning from Mike Romain that the result of my adjustments was totally opposite from what is expected. If I was alone on a desert island with no other option, I could live with the BBD, but I keep thinking "Why not try it?" I feel like a kid on Christmas eve.
Hey Ken... you've made the jump to hyperspace! Congrats on the MC carb. You will like it. Does it come with all the gaskets, adapter plate, etc? If no adapter plate, Mr. Gasket 1937 will do it for you. Take special care to notice the carb base and and gasket array(order) so as not to leave an air gap. I had to mod the cable mount... let me know if you want pics.
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Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
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Unread 04-26-2011, 06:19 AM   #673
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Hey Ken... you've made the jump to hyperspace! Congrats on the MC carb. You will like it. Does it come with all the gaskets, adapter plate, etc?
Thanks. I ordered the whole kit from the Ebay sell Mike Ehrmann. That includes the adapter plate, gaskets, throttle linkage, lengthy installation directions. I also opted for a new automatic choke. I got the MC 2150 which he bills as the "smog" version as it has accomodations for more pollution control connections which I intend to keep.

Interestingly, but not a surprise, Mike is also a top buyer of MC2100's on Ebay. In any Ebay auction, you can pull up a list of bidders on the auction. Ebay obscures the whole name of each bidder, but shows you the first and last letters of their name (or something similar). But the telling sign is that they also show you the number of feedbacks for each bidder, and that's how you can match Mike to the person buying up most of the MC2100's there; the exact same number of feedbacks (5820 as of 4/26/2011).

So I think that's kind of neat: He's buying these up for $50 to $100 each, turning them around and selling them for 3x that and throwing in new parts and the necessary adapaters to make a complete package. Many folks will opt to save $100 or $200 and do the footwork themselves, of course. I can imagine his operation: He must have boxes of new and used parts sitting around, an extensive cleaning operation, spend a fairly predictable amound of time turning the carbs around, and have a small mailroom operation for shipping and receiving parts. That's a pretty cool and easy to understand niche where he's using his experience to add value to some old carburetors, repair them, and sell them to a healthy market of buyers.
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Unread 04-26-2011, 06:26 AM   #674
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I almost forgot in post 671:

4. Valve conver gasket replacement. I'm still waiting on the 1/4" valve cover studs. I have the gasket.
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Unread 04-27-2011, 07:43 AM   #675
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Locking hub restore, part 1

Inspired by MoC's repaint of his locking hubs, I decided to do mine.

I know nothing about the make of my locking hubs. They don't have brand name stamped into them, but there is a number on the inside of one of the housings. They're probably original AMC parts. Perhaps someone can fill in the blank.

when I did my disc brakes, it was clear the locking hubs were in bad shape, at least cosmetically, and I've been wanting to clean them up and get them looking good.

Here's a shot of one of the hubs inside the open chome hub 'cap' that I got when I got new wheels:



Here's a better photo of the thing with the wheel and hubcap off:



You can see the weathered and pitted aluminum housing:



The center twist mechanism is all plastic, with a metal screw in the center:



Here's the inside. The insides were clean with some grease. I didn't see any grime, dirt, mud, etc.




I pulled both hubs. One had about 90% of its paint intact, and the other one had only about 10% intact. The one with most of its paint missing was noticeable more weathered on the aluminum surface. This is the one with most of its paint:



When you remove the center screw on these, the whole mechanism will pop apart due to the large spring inside. Be careful. Here are the parts after disassembly:



Inside:



This is the face of the housing with the plastic twist knob removed. It's gritty:



Plastic knob:



Somehere, either in the FSM or Chilton's, I read not to disassemble the locking hubs unless you knew what you were doing (my words, not theirs). The whole locking hub idea is pretty simple: You twist the front and this turns a threaded mechanism that pushes or pulls a piece forward or backward. The key concept seems to be that you need to makes sure you're getting enough push or pull. So, after the first one flew apart on me after I removed the front screw, I measured the in/out distances on the second one so I could make sure it was the same after re-assembly:



Here's the other hub with most of the paint missing:



Now, on to the real run. Here's our paint stripper. I have used this before and it is nasty stuff. It will tear you up. Here's the old metal paint can I use for stuff like this:



Lots of safety gear needed here. Ideally I would have had a face shield...



I painted the stripper on which was tough because it has the consistency of thick, thick mucus. Here, the hub housings are sitting caradboard with the stripper applied...



I picked up the following rattlecans:

- Aluminum primer (flat white in color)
- 'hammered metal' which is a very dark chocolate/dark gray color. I'm not sure exactly what color it's supposed to be.
- red, designed for use on plastic
- white, which I didn't end up needing and I will return



Here are the hubs after stripping and cleaning. The hub with white on the surface is the one that didn't have much paint. You're seeing lots of oxidation on the surface, which shows that the paint really would protect the metal.



Continued in part 2...
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