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Unread 06-03-2010, 03:33 PM   #46
neals80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
It aid in troubleshooting my gauges, I found this post with pdfs of the service manual:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/84...ml#post6991784

Of particular interest is:

http://www.civilianjeep.info/84-86FS...Schematics.pdf

This reveals the wire colors for the various gauges.

I also did more reading up on dropping the gas tank. Many people believe that if you're going to go to the trouble to drop the tank, it's a good idea to replace the sender anyhow.

I found this link to the sender/o-ring/lock ring for the 15 gallon tank:

Original Replacement Parts 5357373K - Rear Mounted Fuel Sending Unit for 72-86 Jeep® CJ-5, CJ-6, CJ-7 & CJ-8 Scrambler with 15 Gallon Fuel Tank - Quadratec

I also talked to a co-worker who has done some Bondo work. Like anything else, Bondo can be done right or wrong. I think I may take a stab at repairing the dime-sized rust spot on the driver's side and perhaps some of the other spots as well. Although I an get paint to match the factory color, there's no guarantee it would match the paint on the Jeep now.

try and get a waterproof putty like Duraglass..it works the same as a standard putty but will last a lot longer.
..

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Unread 06-03-2010, 03:35 PM   #47
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... Although I an get paint to match the factory color, there's no guarantee it would match the paint on the Jeep now.
is there anything on the jeep that is repainted, but removable? I had exactly the same issue on mine, and I took the spare tire bump mount off, and took it to a local auto body supply shop. they matched it spot-on (red, which is really tough) with a quart of cheap, single stage centari paint for (under $30, IIRC). perhaps that would work for you as well (like with your cowl vent cover?)

I used mine to touch up ALL my chips (after I used the rust converter), and it made a HUGE difference (especially from a few feet away)

Hoss
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Unread 06-03-2010, 03:36 PM   #48
neals80
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try the glove box lid...two screws
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Unread 06-03-2010, 08:14 PM   #49
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoonHoss View Post
is there anything on the jeep that is repainted, but removable? ....perhaps that would work for you as well (like with your cowl vent cover?)
That's a good suggestion. The cowl vent cover was repainted and is removeable, so it could work. The glove box might be a possibility, but someone did brush paint the dashboard and it looks terrible. I'm not sure if they molested the glove box or not.

Here are some of the worst rust holes:





Tonight I made some small but good progress:

1) I removed a ball of electrical tape, cleaned gunk of some wires, rebuilt some gauge light lamp holders, and got the gauge lights working. Still need to get more lamps. I also got the volt meter working. During all this I had to make a good ground to get the lamps working, and I experienced one of those weird ground issues: I could get the gauge lamps working by grounding them correctly, then remove the ground, and they were still on. But if I turned them off and then back on, nothing. I had to have a good gound to kick them on. They were gounding through a second source, but it was weak: strong enough to keep them on, but not strong enough to start them.



2) Since I had the soldering iron out and hot, I removed the old ignition coil power connector (ie: pigtail or horseshoe) and installed the new one, soldering the wires in place. This is one of the optional components for the Team Rush upgrade, so I figured I'd knock it out since my old connector was broken. Here is the before and after:





3) I spent more time troubleshooting the factory temp and gas gauges. I'm not getting a signal from the gas tank sender. This is not surprising. I'm also not getting 12 volts to the speedometer housing, or it's grounding poorly, but even after attaching the test probe directly to the negative terminal of the battery, I still am not getting any test light on the speedo rear. Maybe need to review the troubleshooting document and possibly check fuses.

In other news, the wife rode in the CJ for the first time and seemed to enjoy the short trip. She remaked that we were up high. I suspect the height is a bit taller than her 2WD Ford F150.

Finally, I am questioning more and more the 258's power output. I'm hoping that the Team Rush will give it some more energy. I would also like to get a tach installed so I can see how fast it's turning. I have a general idea based on the sound but I'd like to get something concrete.

Does anyone have a Tuffy II console for sale?
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Unread 06-03-2010, 08:21 PM   #50
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Just a quick aside: Here's my source of music while I'm working on the CJ:


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Unread 06-03-2010, 08:40 PM   #51
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Bondo work is easier than you think.

If you are using Bondo (not name, but plastic filler) then just make sure the area is clear of any oils and grease.
for a golf ball size of bondo, you want a pea size of hardener. Easy enough. Mix it well and go to town.
It is worth purchasing the plastic spreaders as well as they are flexible enough.
Wait till it drys and sand away, you might have to do 2 small coats if you have a low spot.
Next pick up a tube of finishing putty and use that to fill in any pin holes. wait till it is good and dry and sand away, prime and paint.
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Unread 06-03-2010, 08:46 PM   #52
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Bondo work is easier than you think....
The more I ponder the prospect of fixing these holes, the better it sounds. I can do woodworking all day and using wood putty isn't totally different. I think the trick is to do correct preparation and take the time needed to do a quality job.

I'd much rather drive a CJ with a few spots of primer than rust holes! I want my CJ to last a long time.

My co-worker even suggested doing all the body work myself and then sanding the whole thing down to the bare metal, primering it, removing the trim, and then having a local body shop shoot new paint. That would be a good plan if I can learn the proper way to primer and prep the sheetmetal.
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Unread 06-04-2010, 08:42 AM   #53
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I got in the CJ this morning to go to work and when I pressed the brake pedal, the parking lights came on. I figured I must have fould up something last night working on the wiring, although I was sure that I had only improved things. Probably a grounding problem, right?

This morning I found this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/pa...hts-wtf-57206/

So I'm hoping that moving the hazard light switch to the other position will be the fix. I was playing with the hazard light switch and had no idea if I should leave it in or out. Why anyone thought this was a good design is beyond me. That design has always confused me. Today, cars just have a standard push button that turns the hazard on/off. Makes sense. [/rant]
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Unread 06-04-2010, 03:23 PM   #54
DCHCJ7
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Now that i see the hols you have for rust.
I would suggest a 4 stage fix.

Using a dremel tool or burr ginder, clean out as much rust as possible. Wire brush the bubbles to break the paint and remove the loose rust.
Then use your rust converter.
If there is a backing then fill the hole with short strand fiberglass filler (like Bondo) or All Metal filler USC All Metal Quart (this stuff is awesome when it cures).

Then do the options I mentioned before.


CJ wiring is so much fun. you almost would think the guys who designed the wiring were left overs from the British car manufactures.
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Unread 06-04-2010, 03:38 PM   #55
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For a CJ of that condition, I would cut it out and weld in sheet metal.
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Unread 06-04-2010, 08:47 PM   #56
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Put in a new radiator hose tonight and spent some time troubleshooting the engine temperature purple/white wire. At one point I got a signal at the connector where it hits the top of the engine, but never again. I probed it at the firewall but never got a signal there. And there is no signal on the wire at the speedo. In the process I disconnected the connector on the firewall that brings the wires into the cabin, and then got that back together. After doing all that I went to drive the CJ into the garage and it wouldn't start. Turned over fine but no ignition.

During the temp sensor/wire testing I disconnected the wires from the ignition coil while the key was in the 'on' position, and I never left it on for more than a couple of minutes. Anyhow, I'm wondering if the ignition module is toast. The one in there looks fairly new but I haven't pulled the coolant/washer tanks to get to it yet. I did reconnect/check the wires to the ignition coil and they're fine. I don't remember disconnecting anything else. I didn't have a helper to see if I was getting a spark at a spark plug. The Jeep drove fine earlier in the afternoon.

I will get another ignotion module tomorrow and see if that fixes the problem. I have the previous owner's receipt for one put in back in 2005: Control module, Borg Warner # CBE7.
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Unread 06-04-2010, 08:49 PM   #57
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For a CJ of that condition, I would cut it out and weld in sheet metal.
I agree that the rust spots need new metal. The floor pan could use some help too in places.
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Unread 06-04-2010, 09:06 PM   #58
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I mean that in a positive way, your CJ is nice so I would not try to bridge holes with filler even gorilla hair. I am also not saying DCHCJ7 is wrong, I would just take take the extra step and you will still need to skim coat it after the sheetmetal work.
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Unread 06-04-2010, 09:17 PM   #59
Ken4444
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I mean that in a positive way, your CJ is nice so I would not try to bridge holes with filler even gorilla hair. I am also not saying DCHCJ7 is wrong, I would just take take the extra step and you will still need to skim coat it after the sheetmetal work.
My plan with the rust has been to do a patch job a best I can, and then plan to make more permanent fixes later in the future.

Right now I'd just like to get it running again
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Unread 06-04-2010, 09:27 PM   #60
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The upper radiator hose was developing a bulge so I dropped in a new one. I bought a Gates brand thinking that was a quality name, but I really have no idea if they're any good or not.

Here's a comparison:



Here's a closer shot of the bulge:



It doesn't look quite as severe as it did when it was attached to the water pump. I figured it was cheap insurance to go ahead and replace it now. Houston is super hot in the summer and the last thing I need is cooling system problems.

Can anyone identify this hose with the red arrow? It's coming off the Carter BBD and is about 18 inches long. It connects to nothing and smells like gas:

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