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Unread 05-30-2010, 07:39 PM   #31
cer
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Great post. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to following this one.

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Unread 05-30-2010, 09:34 PM   #32
Bren Gun
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Love it! Everything is looking great and you're putting a bunch of elbow grease into it. Well done, sir! You've inspired me to re-paint my wheels.
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Unread 05-30-2010, 10:02 PM   #33
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How many guys have a Jeep on their patio!?

I would love to hear/see the details on how you polished the plastic lens covers. Besides my Jeep, I have two F150s that need it.
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Unread 05-31-2010, 02:36 AM   #34
nedmoore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post


How many guys have a Jeep on their patio!?

I would love to hear/see the details on how you polished the plastic lens covers. Besides my Jeep, I have two F150s that need it.
Toothpaste works pretty well..........
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Unread 05-31-2010, 07:38 AM   #35
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
I would love to hear/see the details on how you polished the plastic lens covers. Besides my Jeep, I have two F150s that need it.
I used the same steps as I did on the paint (See post on first page). Basically I used a clay bar and some cleaning/polishing/waxing products. Probably not the fully reccomended way to go, but I figured it was worth the risk.

Several companies do make plastic polishing products though. I think they're primarily intended for plastic headlights but may work on tail lights.
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Unread 05-31-2010, 07:59 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bren Gun View Post
Love it! Everything is looking great and you're putting a bunch of elbow grease into it. Well done, sir! You've inspired me to re-paint my wheels.
Thanks! I'm happy with the way my spare worked out. Here are some things to consider before you start:

- Do you want to pull off the balance weights and have to get the wheels re-balanced after painting?

- Do you want to repaint and/or clean the back side of the wheels? I didn't paint the inside of my spare; it was only cleaned and prepped. I did notice that there was some overspray from the front that landed on the back side of the wheel and of the tire. So, plan accordingly.

As is true with most auto painting jobs, I think 90% of the work is in the preparation. The act of painting is only a small part of the whole procedure.

Have fun with the project!
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Unread 05-31-2010, 08:07 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by DCHCJ7 View Post
It would depend on the size of the rust holes. anything a dime or even up to a quarter in size, , wire wheel it and then use rust converter and then use some fiberglass filler to fill it. Either use an aluminum filler after that or just sand it down and use a lightweight filler to smooth it out...
Great information. So I have some questions:

Can you provide links to some specific products (fiberglasss/aluminum/lightweight fillers)? I know almost nothing about body repair work, other than knowing that Bondo has a bad reputation despite the fact that people seem to keep using it.

Also, what's my best method for matching the existing paint? I'm fairly sure that this Jeep is on its seconds paint job, so I have no assurance that the paint matches the original, although I think it's close.

It seems like fixing these small rust holes to buy a few years is going to take some planning.

Keep in mind I'd like to avoid re-painting the whole Jeep at this time.

Thanks!
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Unread 05-31-2010, 09:32 PM   #38
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I found some disconnected vaccum lines under the hood today. I posted about it here:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ca...lines-1042727/

Here's a shot of the engine with the repainted air filter housing. For the lower half of the housing, I pulled it, cleaned it (which took about an hour), and used rust converter on the bad spots. It wasn't beat up enough to need repainting, so I just left it like that. Here's the lower part after cleaning:





While I was in the engine compartment, I refurbished the light that is screwed to the underside of the hood. This was disconnected so I left it that way. Does anyone know how it is supposed to come on? What switch turns this thing on?



I thought the radiator cap was leaking, so I put on a new one. That appeared to leak too until I realized the coolant was probably coming from the reserve bottle line which connects right below the radiator cap. So I cut off the nylon tie wrap and installed a real hose clamp. Problem solved so far.

Finally today, I pulled out the non-functioning stereo and speakers. The speakers were a total pain to remove.
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Unread 06-02-2010, 07:02 AM   #39
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Last night I pulled and bench-tested the cassette player/radio. No good. Trashed it.

Then I started out to test the speedo/gauges which lead me down one of those typical automotive paths where I kept stepping back before I made any progress: I couldn't get the speedo off, so I decided to pull the dash board off. I couldn't get that off without pulling the dash pad. I couldn't get that off without dropping the windshield. I couldn't get that down without removing the soft top from it.

Then, I went to disconnect the wires from the ignition coil to avoid burning it up while working on the gauges, and the pigtail connector partially broke (This was OK because I have to replace that for the Team Rush anyhow).

In the process of all this, I had to roll the Jeep back about a foot so I could ge the hood open (large sign hanging from garage rafters), and I rolled it over the drop light cord. So that limited my use of the drop light a bit.

FInally I had everything apart and about 20 tools in the cab, printouts on the floor and seats, wires flowing out from under the dash, and my son walks over and says, "Dad, are you sure you know what you're doing?"

I assured him I did, because I had learned a lot by disaassembling so many things.

When i tilted back the windshield, that exposed the factory-fresh paint. It was beautiful. The PO had put in a new gasket under the windsheild and that looked great too.

The gauges tested OK according to John Stenk's procedures. I haven't tested and of the sender-side things yet. My temp and fuel gauges are not working, or not connected. Also, the aftermarket volt guage isn't connected at all. The aftermarket oil pressure and temp guages both work.

Sorry, no pics on this one.
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Unread 06-02-2010, 10:49 PM   #40
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While at Auto Zone today to pick up a new horseshoe coil pigtail (old one started falling apart last night), I was wandering around the store looking for other stuff I might need. I happened upon the wash and wax section and spotted a $3 can of Turtle Wax rubbing compound. The can warned that the stuff was highly abrasive and could remove paint if the user was not careful.

This sounded exactly like what I needed to remove the oxidized paint from the CJ, so I figured it was worth $3.

There were still some sections on the Jeep I had not worked over yet, so it would be a good test.

The compound has a terra cotta color and is slightly gritty to the touch.



Here's a shot showing both a shiny section where I used the rubbing compound (and all the other previous products) and a section where I just used the other products and no rubbing compound:



This was a huge improvement over the former procedure.

I ended up re-doing the whole hood and it was worth the effort:



In other news, I replaced the high-low floor headlight switch and that brought the headlights back to working condition.

I PB Blasted the bolts for the gas tank in preparation for dropping that so I can check/replace the sender. If you have experience dropping the tank, let me know. I read a few posts about it and it doesn't seem difficult, but no one seemd to detail how the hoses are connected to the top of the tank.

I took my spare tire over the Discount Tire to get it spin balanced. They balanced but would not inflate it because it has a gash in the sidewall. I told them to balance it even though it was underinflated. The best part was they did the work while I waited and then didn't charge me. Nice! Of course now I have doubts about the integrity of the spare tire. I'll fill it up to 25 or 30 pounds and see if it holds.
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Unread 06-03-2010, 05:24 AM   #41
LightWalker
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I'm enjoying the thread. I just bought an 86 hardtop model in fairly similar condition and plan to take a similar approach to fixing it up. It won't be a daily driver, but I'd like to drive it 1-2 days a week.

So far, everything works, but it sure needs work. (grin)
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Unread 06-03-2010, 06:46 AM   #42
Ken4444
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Originally Posted by LightWalker View Post
I'm enjoying the thread. I just bought an 86 hardtop model in fairly similar condition and plan to take a similar approach to fixing it up. It won't be a daily driver, but I'd like to drive it 1-2 days a week.

So far, everything works, but it sure needs work. (grin)
I finally came to the realization the other day that with a CJ, each person has to decide how many broken or sub-par things they're willing to live with.

It's different for every person, and that's why you see some CJ projects where they're rebuilding them from the ground up. Other people drive a CJ that's full of known problems that they can live with. Then there's the factor of time and money, of course.
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Unread 06-03-2010, 07:44 AM   #43
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You are right about each person deciding what is right for them. If I wanted to do a ground up restoration, I'd have bought a 67-68 Mustang. I just wanted something fun that I could take offroad, use during hunting season, work on myself, all while looking halfway decent. That is the beauty of having a truck as a fixer-upper. It doesn't have to be pretty to be cool, plus you can actually use it without cringing at every dent or dab of rust.
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Unread 06-03-2010, 08:08 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
Spent most of the day working on the CJ. It's amazing how much time these things take, but it's enjoyable and rewarding work.

If you've ever watched that show called "Hoarders" you may notice that many of the people express dismay at figuring out where start cleaning their mess. I don't feel that way, but in the back of my mind I am always thinking about how long the to-do list is. For me, though, half of the fun of a CJ is working on it.
Years ago when I had my first or second Vehicle, I was 18 and I complained to my dad that I had to "work on my car today" he promptly said this to me; "Owning a car is a privilege and so you should treat it as such, it is never work on a car but the enjoyment of taking care of it".
I am 41 now and over the years I have thought about this and I completely agree with him. The way I see it is you could always walk or take a bus, train etc. With the exception of 1 I have never regretted any of the 45 vehicles I have owned over the years. (that one is my Chevelle and I have it now. See reason below)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
I finally came to the realization the other day that with a CJ, each person has to decide how many broken or sub-par things they're willing to live with.

It's different for every person, and that's why you see some CJ projects where they're rebuilding them from the ground up. Other people drive a CJ that's full of known problems that they can live with. Then there's the factor of time and money, of course.
When restored my Chevelle I had the replace replace replace idea in my head hell it was a restoration and my first real one after all (I had refurbished many cars in the past but using the methods you are). $6k later in parts I learned a hard lesson and I have regretted it ever since. It looks awesome but I would never do that again.

When I bought my CJ (in worse shape than yours) I had a plan before I handed the PO the money. Mine was spend as little as possible on fixing things, but rather upgrade.
Aside from a new Windshield frame (no choice there as I could not rebuild it) I upgraded the original suspension (2.5" lift), bumpers (did not have any) seats (originals were trashed) and tires. Everything else; lights, gauges, body, frame, engine, etc is original and being slowly fixed up.
So far with my winch (i rebuilt a M8274) I am in mine for 4.5 K with the original price of the CJ which I paid $2400 for. So $2200 in new or used pats and most were to replace missing or damaged beyond repair items.
Big ticket items, Winch and soft top. ($1500 right there damn top was $900) if I did not have to get those, I was looking at around $700 to make it as nice as i have it (pic comming soon). Decent IMO.



So keep it up and enjoy the hell out of it. The CJ is by far one of the best (not mechanically but satisfaction wise) vehicles I have ever owned and puts a smile on my face every day I drive it, even when i breaks I am still smiling.

Like your post and you have given me some god ideas on cleaning some of the things to. BTW you air cleaner looks new, Some of the smallest changes make the biggest difference.

Last edited by DCHCJ7; 06-03-2010 at 08:25 AM..
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Unread 06-03-2010, 03:30 PM   #45
Ken4444
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It aid in troubleshooting my gauges, I found this post with pdfs of the service manual:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/84...ml#post6991784

Of particular interest is:

http://www.civilianjeep.info/84-86FS...Schematics.pdf

This reveals the wire colors for the various gauges.

I also did more reading up on dropping the gas tank. Many people believe that if you're going to go to the trouble to drop the tank, it's a good idea to replace the sender anyhow.

I found this link to the sender/o-ring/lock ring for the 15 gallon tank:

Original Replacement Parts 5357373K - Rear Mounted Fuel Sending Unit for 72-86 Jeep® CJ-5, CJ-6, CJ-7 & CJ-8 Scrambler with 15 Gallon Fuel Tank - Quadratec

I also talked to a co-worker who has done some Bondo work. Like anything else, Bondo can be done right or wrong. I think I may take a stab at repairing the dime-sized rust spot on the driver's side and perhaps some of the other spots as well. Although I an get paint to match the factory color, there's no guarantee it would match the paint on the Jeep now.
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