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Unread 05-28-2010, 10:01 AM   #16
JoonHoss
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Good start right there... as I mentioned/posted in your other post, a little elbow grease (along with meguiars) can go along way.

I also used the rust converter, and had a local paint shop mix me a quart of single stage paint for touch up BEFORE I rubbed everything out. touch up all the rust/chip spots first, then go to town. no one will mistake it for a new paint job up close, but it REALLY cleans up the overall look. it was amazing how much of a difference that little extra step makes overall.(I won't cloud your thread with any more of my pic's )

keep it up!

Hoss

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Unread 05-28-2010, 10:13 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
Looks like you could use a new cowl gasket for the windshield frame.
that is a new one..just a lousy ( fast) job on the sealant after the replacement of the gasket...no leaks!
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Unread 05-29-2010, 09:43 PM   #18
Ken4444
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Spent most of the day working on the CJ. It's amazing how much time these things take, but it's enjoyable and rewarding work.

If you've ever watched that show called "Hoarders" you may notice that many of the people express dismay at figuring out where start cleaning their mess. I don't feel that way, but in the back of my mind I am always thinking about how long the to-do list is. For me, though, half of the fun of a CJ is working on it.

My left and right blinkers are a bit fast, so I decided to look into that. The right front turn lamp had become water logged at some point. Here's what it looked like when I opened it up:



I wire wheeled it, but the tough part was cleaning the lamp socket. I had to buy a small wire brush for the Dremel, and it fit perfectly. The inside of the socket looked new. The reflector part looked OK but will be fine for real-world use:



The wagon wheel spare needed some work, so I figured that would be a fun project. Here's the before:



The tire actually looks OK and is in workable shape. First, I scrubbed the whole thing with dish soap and a stiff brush. Then I wire wheeled the front/white side and the rear which was already black. I used orange paint stripper on the front after wheeling it. Then I used rust converter on the back. Finally, I used paint thinner to clean all of the metal.

Here's the front masked off for painting:



Here's the wheel after the first coat of white:



I will apply 1 more coat tomorrow and post a final photo. I also polished the lug nuts. You may have noticed that I pulled off the balance weight before painting. I decided to go ahead and do this and just get the thing re-balanced after the paint has cured.

The Jeep came with 33" x 12.5" tires on 10" wheels. Those were too big for my liking, so I had new 31"x10.5's installed on new 15x8 wheels. They look fantastic. I took a bunch of 'before' photos of the old tires on the Jeep, but failed to take any 'after' photos today. I'll get some tomorrow. Here are the old tires before a JF member hauled them off for me:



I ran the paint restore/wax process on the right side of the Jeep. Here's an 'after' photo:



I removed the factory jack and mounting plate from under the hood and wheeled, rust converted, and repainted those. Here's the jack before:



I'll complete the paint and post an after photo tomorrow.

Finally, I noticed the throwout lever boot is shot. How difficult is it to replace this?



Here's a shot of the Jeep on the back patio. I'm envious of the folks who have lots of acreage for their projects.



My original shift knob was missing the pattern. I installed a new shift boot and knob. In typical Jeep fashion, all three screws holding the boot on were different.



I got the light bar off, finally, after purchasing a big screwdriver.

Tomorrow I'll finish the jack and spare tire projects. If I have time I will repaint the spare tire carrier. After that I want to start getting things cleaned up under the hood. That will be a good transition to doing some real mechanic work. I also need to bench test the stereo and get it working or drop in a new one. So many things to do...
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Unread 05-29-2010, 10:14 PM   #19
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Your '7 is looking GREAT already...really looking forward to following this thread!!

Thanks for all of the detailed write-ups!!




.
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Unread 05-30-2010, 07:21 AM   #20
MadBull41
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Thanks again for the tires. Now I'm going to revive mine from the dead and get her cranked up after sitting for 3 years.

Later,
Phil
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Unread 05-30-2010, 08:27 AM   #21
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I share Ken's passion of restoring worn out, grimy, old parts, and making them look like new again, too. It's very self rewarding.

Ken, to replace the boot, you'll have to remove the return spring, loosen the threaded adjustment rod, and drop it down.

Pull off the old boot, and slide it off of the throwout lever.

Slide the new boot over the throwout lever, and snap it onto the bellhousing.

Replace the adjustment rod and the return spring. You may have to play around with the rod adjustment to get the right amount of clutch pedal freeplay.

The sad thing about these boots is that they don't last long. I replaced mine, and within a few months, the new one was cracked.

Rich
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Last edited by rixcj; 05-30-2010 at 08:40 AM..
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Unread 05-30-2010, 09:17 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadBull41 View Post
Thanks again for the tires. Now I'm going to revive mine from the dead and get her cranked up after sitting for 3 years.

Later,
Phil
You bet! Thanks for taking them off my hands!
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Unread 05-30-2010, 09:24 AM   #23
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I share Ken's passion of restoring worn out, grimy, old parts, and making them look like new again, too. It's very self rewarding.
I had an interesting revelation last night.

I was dog tired and sitting in bed browsing the Quadratec, JC Whitney, and other catalogs looking at Jeep parts. I started paying attention to the prices for various things. $10 for a knob, $25 for a tail light, $125 for a seat cover, $100 for a set of hinges. I realized that pretty soon you're talking about real money.

So this confirmed my goal to refurbish the parts I can, and save money for the really big fixes and things that simply need new parts.

I was reminded of my theory that from about 4 catalogs and a few online sources, one could probably build an entirely new Jeep CJ for probably $40,000.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
Ken, to replace the boot, you'll have to remove the return spring, loosen the threaded adjustment rod, and drop it down....
Sounds super easy, and it's no problem to get under the vehicle. Thanks for the details.
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Unread 05-30-2010, 10:41 AM   #24
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Ken,

The budget is a concern for me too, I would love to throw more dollars at it but I have keep it reasonable. I started a spreadsheet about a year into the build to keep a ballpark total. Purchase price, new parts, used parts, parts sold, parts wanted etc. and then I added 10% for holes in my estimate. I will probably change that to 20% which I think will be more realistic.

I know what I have in it now and I know it would be easy to go 20K with a frame off restoration without serious upgrades. And on the flip side, a guy could build a very nice CJ for 5K, it just depends on the person.

Be sure to price shop everything online and compare online + shipping to local + tax. In many cases if you find it locally it is cheaper. Typically, Autozone is cheaper than most other places but they wanted about 20.00 for the input seal on the D300 and NAPA had it for 9.99.
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Unread 05-30-2010, 01:55 PM   #25
Ken4444
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Okay, here are the before and after shots of the wheels and tires:

Old (33x12.5 tire on 15x10 wheel):



New (31x10.5 tire on 15x8 wheel):



Here are before/after shots showing the width:





You can see there is just a bit more clearance, but my main interest is a balanced look.

Here are a couple of driveway shots:



Here's the refinished spare wagon wheel and tire:



You will see the child car seat in the back...



Later I'll post the before/after shots of the air cleaner housing top.

Last edited by Ken4444; 05-30-2010 at 03:35 PM.. Reason: Add image
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Unread 05-30-2010, 02:01 PM   #26
243
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I like it a lot better but then I prefer tires inside the fenderwells or flares. Nice choice in wheels, a classic look
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Unread 05-30-2010, 02:10 PM   #27
243
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Oreilly's normally carry a decent selection of Meguiar's more aggressive paint cleaners like Medium Cut #1 and Fine Cut #2. They will cut much better than the products in the Deep Crystal System. I use the DC System too but only after paint restoration.

Wash
Clay
Wash
Clean
Polish
Wax

I also bought a dual acton polisher from Meguiar's that happened to be cheaper than the Porter Cable when my Frontier was new. Before I had the Frontier I used the DC System by hand on my long bed Quad Cab Dodge and it took a day and I hurt like all hell afterwards.
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Unread 05-30-2010, 03:47 PM   #28
Ken4444
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My oldest son wanted to re-do the paint on the air cleaner filter housing (top piece), so we worked on that today.

I let him do some of the wire wheeling and then spread the paint stripper on. These photos show the basic steps:

This is the thing as it looked when I bought the Jeep:



This is after wire wheeling and cleaning with paint thinner:



This is minutes after applying a coat of Eastood's Rust Converter:



This is maybe 10 minutes after the Rust Converter:



This is maybe 60 minutes after the Rust Converter:



I will spray it tonight or tomorrow after I get some high temp paint. I don't know if high temp paint is totally necessary here, but I figured it couldn't hurt. My can of white Krylon says not to use on things that will be hotter than 200 degrees.

I thought it would also be neat to pick up some stainless steel wing nuts.
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Unread 05-30-2010, 03:53 PM   #29
Ken4444
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In hopes of shining up the tail light lenses, I use the same procedure on them that I did on the paint. Here's a before/after comaparison that shows a slight improvement:



Here is the jack before and after:



Here is after wire wheeling, rust converting, and spraying with a couple of coats of Krylon. This shows the jack mounting plate and lug wrench too:

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Unread 05-30-2010, 07:15 PM   #30
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
Oreilly's normally carry a decent selection of Meguiar's more aggressive paint cleaners like Medium Cut #1 and Fine Cut #2. They will cut much better than the products in the Deep Crystal System. I use the DC System too but only after paint restoration...
Good information. I have always been confused between the consumer and professional lines of Mequiar's products. I just wish they would tell you the abrasive quality/grit of each product so it would be easier to get the right product. For a chalky paint job, clearly on needs much more abrasive action than what most consumer products are designed to do.
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