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Unread 07-28-2010, 11:54 AM   #211
twoleos617
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here's a link when i did my linkage. it took Fatman giving me a slap in the face to wake me up but it was simple once you get the principles down.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...-ssed-1037549/

fill the BC about 80% before you reassemble or you'll be pumping forever with a gun.

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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:16 PM   #212
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow85cj View Post
Should have a zerk fitting on the tube to fill with grease.
Yes, it appears to. I was surprised that the whole tube would be filled with grease as opposed just to the ends where the grease is needed. It probably boils down to being cheaper to manufacturer.
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Unread 07-28-2010, 02:18 PM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
...fill the BC about 80% before you reassemble or you'll be pumping forever with a gun.
Great idea. Thanks. I don't want to have to install the thing more than once.
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Unread 07-28-2010, 02:32 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
The sugar in the juice is fermentable, so it is fermented and the sweetness is lost. So you're left with flavor and color.
And more booze,
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Unread 07-28-2010, 08:28 PM   #215
Ken4444
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I forgot to mention where I got my shocks. I wanted to get them from a place that would take Paypal, so I ended up going here:

Top Gun Customz items - Get great deals on Bumpers, 05-09 Ford Super Duty items on eBay Stores!

Before ordering, I emailed them and got a reply back quickly confirming the specific manufacturer part numbers for the front and rear shocks. The price was good and the shipping price was reasonable. I paid $39.23 per shock, shipped. No state sales tax.

The shocks were drop-shipped directly from Skyjacker and got here 5 days after I ordered which is fair for ground shipping. I"m in no way related to this seller, but wanted to mention them because I had a good experience, especially with the pre-sales information.
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Unread 07-29-2010, 06:42 PM   #216
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Did three small things tonight:

1) Checked the valve cover gasket. There was oil pooling near the front driver's side of the valve cover. I checked the 6mm hex bolt and it was barely finger tight. I gave it 1/2 a turn, so we'll see if that works.

2) Bought two standard 2" exhaust clamps Installed the exhaust heat sheld. I have my neighbor's infrared thermometer and took readings yesterday. I got a maximum of 135 degrees on the side of transmission hump and about 120 in the surrounding area after driving 55 on the freeway for 10 minutes and then doing some slower street driving. I hope to head out tomorrow and make a comparison temp reading.

3) Picked up some 3/8" x 20 (threads per inch) (ie: fine thead) hex nuts and star washers for the clutch fork release rod, since it did not come with any. Those installed without too much hassle, although I will be taking them off after the bellcrank shaft and other small parts arrive and I have to install that.
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Unread 07-30-2010, 07:27 PM   #217
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Great thread,keep her rolling
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Unread 08-01-2010, 08:36 PM   #218
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Shackle refurb

Somehow I got it in my mind that I should disassemble the rear shackles and grease them. Maybe in the back of my mind I thought this might help them articulate more and make for a softer ride. Anyhow, the project went well but spawned the usual side projects. And, as always, I couldn't disassemble things without cleaning and repainting them. So, it took me part of two days.

Note that these pics are a mixture of the work I did on each side over 2 days.

Here's a before shot of one of them You can see the rust easily:



After removal of the mounting bracket, you can see rust on the frame. This was one reason I wanted to go this far: to see how bad the rust was. After wire wheeling it, it was apparent that the rust was only on the surface:



Here's the surface rust on the other side:



Here's the other side before removal with one bolt backed out slightly:



On the passenger side, the rear body mount bushing was cracked. I decided to remove that to get a better idea of the damage and rust. The rust was bad. Here's the mess I had after removing the bolt and the bushing:



This shows the rust that was flaking off everyhwere:



This is the metal insert from the bushing. Any idea how to ge this out without removing the rub? I will probably have to cut it with a hacksaw:



Luckily, the body was super clean. All of the rust was from the bushing assembly:



To remove tension from the leaf springs, I jacked up the rear from the gas tank skid plate. Not sure if this was a good idea, but it worked:



I had to remove the bumper to fully expose the frame under the shackle hangers. I'm going to leave it off for now. It was really heavy and weighed 53 pounds:



Here are the old shackle hanger bolts: two were more recent, and 2 looked to be original and were tapered and very degraded. I wire wheeled the old bolt in the center (to see how much was left), so it has less rust:



Here are the contents of one shackle after removal:



To get to the driver's side shackle, I had to remove the exaust bracket. Here we see the parts of that:



I refinished the shakles and ehxaust bracket by 1) wire wheeling, 2) cleaning, 3) rust converter, and painting. Here are the parts for a completed shackle, complete with new grade 8 bolts and lock washers:



Here are the refinished parts for the exhaust pipe bracket. Yes, I refinished the clamp. I'm hopeless. At least I used a can of Rustoleum 'aluminum' paint that I've had since 2001:



Here's a completed shackle:



Here's the other side:



This is the completed exhaust bracket:



Completed driver's side:



That's it! It was fun and rewarding. Today I also pulled the heater box. More on that later.
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Unread 08-01-2010, 08:51 PM   #219
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Heat

Plenty hot today. The garage floor, which felt cool, was 90:



The workbench was 95:



The side of the garage was 100:



Under the hood was of course really hot:



Of course it was a good day for this:



St. Arnold's is Houston's only microbrewery and makes some great beers. This one is particularly suited for a 100 degree day. I tend to alternate between homebrew and microbrew. That gives me more variety.
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Unread 08-01-2010, 09:08 PM   #220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post

Here's a completed shackle:


I'm kind of OCD about the shackles. Since they're prominent, I like them to look square and straight. You're right in thinking that they could soften a ride... it's important that they articulate. Be careful to not overtighten the bolts and squeeze the bushings. You do great work, Ken. Looks really good. And I'm tickled that you didn't have any significant rust problems.
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Unread 08-01-2010, 09:11 PM   #221
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I'm kind of OCD about the shackles. Since they're prominent, I like them to look square and straight. You're right in thinking that they could soften a ride... it's important that they articulate. Be careful to not overtighten the bolts and squeeze the bushings. You do great work, Ken. Looks really good. And I'm tickled that you didn't have any significant rust problems.
define 'squeeze the bushings' ? I tightened mine till they just started pushing on the rubber.

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Unread 08-01-2010, 09:22 PM   #222
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Heater box rebuild - part 1 - disassembly

I am on call this weekend, so I try to stay close to home in case I get any calls. Luckily the work has been slow so I've had plenty of time to work on the Jeep.

After the shackle rebuild, I had time to burn on more Jeep stuff. I decided to pull the heater box.

Removing the box was the hard part. I removed 4 nuts from the firewall, including the one behind the valve cover. That one nut took 15 minutes to get off.

After all that the box would not come loose. It appeared to be hanging by one more bolt. I ended up pulling the battery plus 3 or 4 more screws in hopes of finally getting the thing out, but no luck.

It seemed like it was hanging by something in the middle. When I pulled on the box I could hear a groaning metal sound. I didn't want to break anything so I kept backing off. After going around and around with this and having no luck, I finally tried pulling on it with one arm while peeking under the hood with my head. At this point I realized that it was hanging where the heater core pipes come through the firewall. Knowing this, I then pulled harder and lifted up and the thing finally came down after probably an hour of work.

It was full of dust. Here it is right after I pulled it.

This is the top of the unit:



Here's the back (the part that goes up against the firewall):



Here's the front (faces the passenger seat):



You can see the buildup of dust on the top:



Here we see more pine needles. My jeep is full of them and I find them during almost every project. We also see an emory board or a popsicle stick:



This is the rear. You see the blower motor. The small pipe is a drain pipe that goes through the firewall:



The heater core, which had been disconnected, was corroded:



Another interior shot:



The bottom of the heater core was green. This explains why the PO disconnected the heater; it was probably leaky:



This is the area where the heater core sits. The whole housing is plastic except the back which is metal. Here you see the inside plastic which looks pretty clean except for the debris:



After disassembly, I had a lot of screws and parts:



Here's the area under the dash where the heater box was located. You can see the metal housing of the computer:



I washed the main parts in soap and water. The plastic housing cleaned up well. The rear panel is all metal. I refinished that in the usual manner and it's hanging up to dry as I type.

The blower motor is on its last leg. It turns slow and makes a buzzing noise. I will probably have to replace it.

One other part of this project that remains undone is to remove the control knobs and lubricate the wires. Also, one of the knobs pulls off the metal shaft so I will perhaps use loctite or some other adhesive on it. A set of new knobs and control wires is not cheap, as is the case with most CJ parts.

One parting shot:

How did the heater core test?



I know two radiator shops in town that I drive by regularly. I'll see what it's going to cost to get this thing repaired.

One final idea:

I dislike the fact that a heater core is always heated, especially in the summer. I'm pondering setting up a 3-way ball valve system so I can shut off water flow to the heater core when I don't need it (10 months out of the year). I would probably use brass ball valves, but I imagine the cost would be high.
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Unread 08-01-2010, 09:32 PM   #223
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Ken, I have an extra heater core if you want it... I bought a new one before checking mine, which turned out to be in fine shape. There is a good heater box rebuild thread on here somewhere.

You should do the blower motor upgrade while you have the box out...

I like St. Arnold's "Lawnmower"
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Unread 08-01-2010, 09:43 PM   #224
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Is this the beginning of an MAW?

The blower upgrade?
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Unread 08-01-2010, 09:43 PM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benullman View Post
define 'squeeze the bushings' ? I tightened mine till they just started pushing on the rubber.

Ben
Torque spec on the shackles is very low, something like 24 ft-lbs.
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