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New For October! Flowmaster Black Ceramic Coated 304S ExhaNew For October! Flowmaster Black Ceramic Coated 304S ExhaNew For October! Flowmaster Black Ceramic Coated 304S Exha

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Unread 03-19-2014, 07:15 PM   #1636
Ken4444
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Aluminum trim removal

(Continued from previous post)



Each rail has 5 screws. Here's an assortment of good ones and the 2 broken ones:



Here's the aluminum channel after cleaning. It looks like the inside has a black anodized finish, although it could be spray paint. I'm not sure.







This was the only screw head that was badly eaten away from rust. I had to grind rust bumps off the flat head of it to make sure it would go back in clearly and smoothly. Here we see it after cleaning it with a steel wire wheel. I did this with all 8 non-broken screws.

It just now occurred to me that I could probably weld the 2 broken ones.







After wire wheeling, I painted rust converter onto them:







Amazingly, in my growing stash of stainless steel nut and bolts, I had the correct size and style of stainless steel nuts to replace the factory nuts:



I re-assembled everything and used a bit of anti-size on the screws.

While I had the rails off to clean them, I used aluminum polish of them as I had done a few years ago, but the result was the same: Not really any change. Whatever coating they have does not give any more shine when polished. I used Mother's mag and aluminum polish, and also tried some Brasso.

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Unread 03-19-2014, 07:32 PM   #1637
Matt1981CJ7
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Ken,

Nice work!

FYI, these make a perfect replacement for the broken T-bolts. My local True Value carries them.

Matt
92221a244l.gif

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Unread 03-19-2014, 08:05 PM   #1638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Ken,
Nice work!
FYI, these make a perfect replacement for the broken T-bolts. My local True Value carries them.
Matt
Good call. Those look like they'd work well. I could probably repair by broken ones by grinding down the remaining stud, drilling a 1/4" hole in the drill press, sticking in some 1/4" threaded rod, and then tack welding it together. So, do I A) spend an hour attempting the repairs for no added cost, B) drop $10 at McMaster, or C) source the parts locally and spend a couple of bucks?

Normally I'd probably go the McMaster route, but I think I will attempt the repair myself just for the possible satisfaction of doing it successfully. I have plenty of 1/4" bolts that I can sacrifice, plus I get to fire up the welder! If that totally fails then I will see if I can get a workable part locally. Luckily these parts aren't absolutely necessary so I can drive the Jeep with the 2 missing bolts.

On a separate note, my oldest son saw a bracelet made of pennies that were somehow attached together. He announced that he was going to use the soldering iron to make one himself to give to mom. I suggested that the 15 watt soldering iron was probably not hot enough to solder metal of that gauge, but the MAP pro torch might work. So I got him started on that while I was working on the Jeep and it worked out pretty well. He practiced on a few dozen pennies, leaning how to control the heat and place the solder carefully without making a huge mess. He didn't turn out a finished product yet but did make quick progress in his soldering skill. It was a great example of what I love most about being a dad: Seeing kids learn and using their knowledge in useful ways.

Back to Jeep news: I found a lead on a set of 5 Jeep wagon wheels. I hope to go see them tomorrow to see if they're workable. If they are, it will involve a few hours of work to get the old tires dismounted, strip the wheels (they're green), repaint them, and get my tires mounted on them.

Or, I hold out and wait for a set doesn't require repainting.
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Unread 03-19-2014, 08:55 PM   #1639
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Most of the rocker trim that I have seen are anodized. So unless you remove the anodizing, they won't shine like polished aluminium.

On the 3 or 4 sets that I have come across. there are 5 bolts per side. One on each side being a different length, where it bolts to the fender. Looks like yours stayed on well without the fender bolt though.
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Unread 03-20-2014, 09:34 AM   #1640
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Wow. Allied Powder Coating here in Houston wants $99 each to sand blast and powder coat 15" wheels. There's no way I'm paying that. Can anyone recommend any other place in Houston that does cleaning and powder coating?
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Unread 03-20-2014, 10:48 AM   #1641
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Place up in Conroe that did a frame for me did a good job but he was not that cheap either cost about 500 for the frame and some small parts. Not sure what he would charge for wheels. Well see if I can get the wife to dig the receipt up.
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Unread 03-20-2014, 10:59 AM   #1642
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Discount Tire charges $5 to dismount a tire from a wheel. There's a $2.50 disposal fee per tire assuming you leave the dead tires there. So it will cost about $40 if I bring in 5 wheels. Not too bad.

The plan worked to repair the broken bolts. I ground off the remaining studs, drilled a 1/4" hole in the large round base about 3/8" deep, cut a 1" (or so) length of threaded shaft, lightly ground down the threads near the base where the welds would be, then made 4 tack welds between the threaded rod and the base, and then spray painted them except for the threads.

Here's the finished product with paint:
repairedbolts.jpg

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Unread 03-20-2014, 11:08 AM   #1643
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I almost forgot: 2 of the new body mount bolts completely fell out at an unknown time in the past, taking the washers and lower bushing pieces with them. I guess they weren't tight enough!

I looked around for a long time to find replacements for the bushing parts, number 4020 which was included in kit number 2-4102 which is what I bought. Dealers for Energy Suspension don't sell individual parts. I couldn't find a similar part from McMaster Carr or any other place that makes or sells these things. Energy Suspension does sell "universal" parts, but nothing that is close to part 4020 which is a like a fat, 1/2" thick, 1.25" ID, 2" OD washer.

I ended up calling the Energy Suspension customer service line and they offered to ship me a few replacement parts for free, as warranty replacements. So that's really cool. I still have to get new bolts and find some washers though. I got some stainless star washers to hopefully prevent the bolts from unscrewing this time.
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Unread 03-20-2014, 12:09 PM   #1644
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Austin Jeeps used to sell a stainless steel replacement stud that I used when I painted my Jeep. Unfortunately, they have been 'sold out' for some time now. Not sure if they are making more or not.
http://www.austinjeeps.com/newitems.html
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Unread 03-20-2014, 12:11 PM   #1645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
but I think I will attempt the repair myself just for the possible satisfaction of doing it successfully. I have plenty of 1/4" bolts that I can sacrifice, plus I get to fire up the welder! If that totally fails then I will see if I can get a workable part locally.
Yep, tough to beat some self satisfaction. I decided to make my own to. I used some slabs of 16ga. and some 1/4" ss bolts and nuts and tack welded them together. Two nuts were just the correct stand off height. I've since POR'd the bases.

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Unread 03-20-2014, 02:06 PM   #1646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
Wow. Allied Powder Coating here in Houston wants $99 each to sand blast and powder coat 15" wheels. There's no way I'm paying that. Can anyone recommend any other place in Houston that does cleaning and powder coating?
I had some work done at Allied several years ago and liked the results. Recently, though, I had to pass, because they have a $200 minimum, and I had just a few small pieces (shackle hangers from Crabtree.) I also asked them about powder coating my chrome wagon wheels, but they weren't sure that that the powder coating would adhere unless the chrome was in very good shape. Didn't discuss the possibility of sandblasting them first.

Small world in this big city!
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TAMC85 CJ7
Still Original: Tub, Rollbar; Frame; 258 Block; T176; DANA300; Steering; DANA30; AMC20; Drive Shafts; Wheels; Tank; Altenator; Fan; Frt Bumper; Speedo; Heater Box; Spare Carrier; Seat risers
Replaced: Radiator; Valve Cover; Clutch linkage; Taillights; Frt Brake Calipers; Fuel, Tmp, and Oil Pressure Gauges; Exhaust line; Seat Belts; Paint
Mods: Mopar MPI(in progress); 4.0 Al Cylinder Head; OME YJ Suspension; MC Seats; Tub liner; 31" Tires
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Unread 03-20-2014, 05:50 PM   #1647
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Body mount stainless steel washers

I stumbled across a great source for stainless steel, 1/8" thick body mount washers. When I looked for these a few months ago I came up empty except for Omix-Ada and Mcmaster both of which are expensive.

The problem with this new source is they only have them with 3/8" holes and not 7/16" which is the size of the bolts at radiator and rear mounts. But at least this covers you for 8 of the mounts, and you get 10 washers for $1.55 each (shipped) which is faaaar better than the $4 apiece for the Omix-Ada ones which are poor quality. You might be able to drill them out another 1/16" or so to fit the 3 larger bolts.

Here's the latest auction. Here's the seller's store, for when the above auction is no longer valid. The seller is "afh_fasteners".
bodywashersnew2-800.jpg

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Unread 03-20-2014, 09:24 PM   #1648
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For folks who may not have seen it, here is an index to the posts of the major projects I've done in this thread:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ke...l#post11394398

I actually use this index from time to time to locate posts or details about various things, sometimes to refer other people to.
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Unread 03-23-2014, 10:14 AM   #1649
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I re-torqued the U-bolt nuts this morning. Some needed 1/4 turn and others needed almost a full turn to get back to 85 foot pounds. Perhaps this is due to the bolts stretching or the bond between the top leaf and the spring perch becoming closer?

After the previous problem of the creaking suspension caused by loose u-bolt nuts, I have a better respect for keeping these things correctly tightened. Plus it only take a few minutes to check and tighten them.
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Unread 03-23-2014, 04:16 PM   #1650
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Mirror adjustment

I learned something new today. On the side mirrors, you can loosen a screw on the back with a 1/4" nut driver (or screwdriver) to loosen the mirror for adjustment. Then tighten the screw to hold the mirror in place. It works on both mirrors. Pretty cool! Now there's no more fighting to get the mirrors adjusted.
jeep-cj-mirror-adjustment-2-resized.jpg

jeep-cj-mirror-adjustment-1-resized.jpg

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