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Unread 09-21-2013, 03:14 PM   #1561
Jester77
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That looks great Ken. Your posts/projects are always informative and leave little to question. A brake booster/master cylinder replacement is one of the things I still need to do under the hood on the Yeti. I appreciate the pics.

Jester

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Unread 09-21-2013, 07:00 PM   #1562
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jester77 View Post
That looks great Ken. Your posts/projects are always informative and leave little to question. A brake booster/master cylinder replacement is one of the things I still need to do under the hood on the Yeti. I appreciate the pics.

Jester
You bet. Glad to help. When are you planning on replacing your MC and brake booster?
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Unread 09-21-2013, 07:16 PM   #1563
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I think the brakes are the very last thing on the Yeti to get replaced, but while I'm at it, I'm going to redo the entire brake system (minus the brake lines). When I put the Rubicon Express 4.5" lift on, it came with braided brake lines that I installed. I think the rest of the brake lines are okay. I'm also going to replace the rear drums with disc brakes. Might as well do all the brakes at once, that way I only have to bleed the system one time. I don't have much brake fluid in the lines right now because I lost most of it when I added the braided brake lines from the lift kit.
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Unread 09-21-2013, 10:02 PM   #1564
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Looks good, great detail. I ordered the hose today from NAPA. The 2 NAPA numbers you gave brought up the same part. I thought maybe one was the fitting on the end for the booster. $2.69 for the hose.
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Unread 09-22-2013, 04:13 PM   #1565
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Speedometer, the inside story

The weather today has been just about perfect: dry, sunny, and temps in the 70's and low 80's. We even had all of the house windows open for a few hours in the morning. So there was no way I couldn't work on the Jeep or at least spend most of the day outside.

My son and I rode our bikes down to the bayou and examined the effects of the high water from the heavy rain from the last few days. After that I got started on the CJ.

I figure that swapping out the speedometer would be a good 1 or 2 hour project. I pulled out the old speedo, did some final cleanup on the new/used speedo, and had them sitting side by side on the workbench. At one point I figured that since I had 2 of them, I should take the old one apart to see how it worked. Maybe there would be an obvious reason the odometer wasn't working.

Here we have the old, stuck at 129,999.9 miles and the new one with 162K miles:



Getting the thing apart is easy. Just pry open the 4 crimps that hold the chrome bezel to the back side:



Remove these 2 screws to allow the internal mechanism to be removed from the rear case:



Here's the inside of the case:



Here are several shots of the speedo and odometer mechanism. It's surprisingly compact:









The front chrome bezel holds a sandwich of 4 parts:
  • Chrome bezel
  • rubber gasket
  • glass
  • black metal ring

Here we see the glass and gasket:



Here's the backside of the chrome ring and the black ring:



To reassemble these parts, put the gasket in the chrome ring:



Set the glass in:



Then drop in the black ring. Stick the mechanical part back in the rear housing, reinstall the 2 screws, and then set that onto the chrome ring assembly. Then re-crimp the 4 crimps, being careful not to scratch the chrome. Oh, don't cut yourself on the glass like I did

So, while I had the thing apart, I gently pushed on the odometer number wheels to see that they'd do. Not much other than moving around slightly. I then got out the drill and ran that at full throttle to turn the speedo. Amazingly, the odometer started working. I ran the corded DeWalt drill at 100% for about 2 minutes, the speedo registering 55MPH, and spun the odometer up to about 130,002 or so.

After that I figured I could get by with my original speedo. So I cleaned the dust off the inner workings and reassembled it. I put it back on the dash, put the dash panel back on, and took a test drive. The odometer still worked.

Hopefully it will continue to work.

So if you need to replace your factory fuel and temp gauges, or repaint the orange speedo needle, it's super easy to get the thing apart and re-assemble it.

I also found that some XXXX steel wool was helpful to remove any surface rust from the chrome bezel, and Brasso metal polish gives this piece a bit more shine.
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Unread 10-03-2013, 08:26 PM   #1566
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Ken, I read your entire thread over the past two days and I want to chime in and say thanks. The hours you must have spent collecting pictures and then doing the write up here are really appreciated!

Lee
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Unread 10-04-2013, 06:51 AM   #1567
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Ken, I read your entire thread over the past two days and I want to chime in and say thanks. The hours you must have spent collecting pictures and then doing the write up here are really appreciated!

Lee
Thanks for the reply! I don't completely know what drives me to take photos of my work and take the time to post them. Part of the motivation is to pay forward the help I've gotten from other posts here and on other forums where people took the time to post a how-to. Keith460's photos and diagrams are of great value. Dave's and Coiz's work were also huge inspirations. The posts that have good quality, detailed images are of great interest to me.

I also think that most of this work is pretty simple if you only know a few tricks, have the right tools, and are aware gotchas beforehand. If I can figure it out, then anyone can do it. So if I can document my work and point out the problems, I think it will help many others who are in the same boat.

There are times, however, when sitting amongst a floor full or parts with grease and grime everywhere that it's not easy to get photos, especially good ones. You've got to have good light and the camera flash isn't always the best source to light up a scene. Having to stop my work to fiddle with the camera to get a good shot sometimes a pain, but sometimes it's just an opportunity to take a short break. I am surprised that the frequent exposure to grease and oil hasn't resulted in all of the markings being worn off my old camera.

Getting good photos is one thing, but taking the time to sort through them and type a writeup is another labor of love. Often I will do this in the evening when I'm tired or just want to sit. First I will go through the photos, delete the bad ones, and see what's left. For long sequences of pics, I will arrange them in some kind of order so I don't leave any out. I largely let the photos tell the story, and I provide commentary to fill in the blanks, or explain what we're seeing in a photo.
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Unread 10-04-2013, 01:12 PM   #1568
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Ken, Just wanted to throw a big "thank you" your way for this thread. A lot of the projects you have tackled need to be done on my 86 CJ. Your documentation of the work, mistakes, corrective action, and work-arounds is an excellent resource for someone starting these projects.
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Unread 10-18-2013, 01:03 PM   #1569
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question about Carter BBD adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
So I got her home and put the base idle screws in all the way with the engine off. Then I followed Mike Romain's procedure to set them (5 turns out, then turn in with 1/4 increments until it stumbles). I had them turned in to the point of the engine starting to stumble, then I brought them out 1/8 of a turn each. This fixed the problems I was having but I haven't road tested it yet.
Ken,

Sorry to dig up an old post in your build thread, but I have a question regarding this procedure. I've got a an all-stock/new-to-me/pre-computer '82 CJ. Does this procedure work/make sense for adjusting the mixture on a BBD w/o the stepper motor?

Thanks! You're build thread has proven invaluable so far.

Cheers,
Jason
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Unread 10-18-2013, 01:08 PM   #1570
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Does this procedure work/make sense for adjusting the mixture on a BBD w/o the stopper motor?
Yes, I think it would.
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Unread 10-19-2013, 04:49 PM   #1571
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Oreilly Auto #3(#ed me on the radiator. I bought part number 433063 which is listed as "Brass Tank/Copper Brass Core" but what I got was a plastic/aluminum unit even though the box was marked with 433063. At first I thought I ordered the wrong unit but their website and their service counter computer terminal confirmed that the one I had should have been brass/copper.

You can see for yourself here:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...keyword=433063

I am not putting a plastic radiator in the CJ. No way. Those things are crap and I will never buy one if I have another option.

To their credit Oreilly Auto gave me a full refund. I'm glad they're a 1 minute drive from the house and not across town. The only other model they had is listed as a plastic/aluminum one, so there was no other option.

The search continues.

While I have been jacking with the CJ all day at least dinner will be good...
radiator-box-800.jpg

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Unread 10-19-2013, 08:50 PM   #1572
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Ken,

I went through the same exercise as you are with the radiator and I ended up having mine re-cored to a 3 core for extra cooling and they fixed the little things wrong with it. The original radiators are fantastic if you can preserve them. I did end up paying more but it was $$ well spent. No fan shroud and I have never even worried about overheating. I would say try and salvage your original vs. buying any of the junk out there on the market these days.

Mike
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Unread 10-20-2013, 08:44 AM   #1573
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... I would say try and salvage your original vs. buying any of the junk out there on the market these days.

Mike
I hear ya. I have heard the same thing from other folks too. Even if I can find a new brass/copper unit, what's the chance it will also last 30 years? (although I have no proof mine is the original radiator, however)

I was polishing up the old radiator (since it was out of the Jeep) with a steel wire brush and it is a great looking piece. The tanks (bottom and top parts) are indeed brass, and the finned area is indeed copper but painted black. I am going to try a few things on it today since I'm on call and stuck at (or near) the house anyhow. This weekend we are finally seeing some California-like, weather which is always great in a place that has 9 months of humid summer and 3 months of damned poor sledding. So I'm spending as much time outside as possible. Just finishing up my breakfast and some on-call work now.
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Unread 10-22-2013, 11:01 PM   #1574
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Brief update: I pulled out an old roll of plumber's solder and managed to get fix the leak (for now). Not a beautiful soldering job. Somehow, doing electrical soldering is far easier for me. All I could figure is that I had been getting the brass waaaaay too hot. The solder had been just balling up. Once I learned to control the heat, the solder would mostly draw up onto the metal.

One of the radiator brackets became detached from the radiator body. I was unable to solder that back on so I used epoxy glue. I got the radiator back in the Jeep, poured in a gallon of coolant and at least a gallon of water and was good to go. A day later I lost about 1/2 a gallon of fluid due to a leak at the lower radiator hose where it meets the water pump, so I fixed that and added more water.

Also, I was pouring the old coolant mixture into bottles and saw a black rubber washer in the bottom of the bucket. doh! This was the washer for the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator. So I lost more fluid getting that back on.

So, the radiator fix could blow any day. I don't know.

I feel comfortable pulling and reinstalling the radiator though. There's no real trick other than to make sure you pull off the lower radiator hose (from the radiator) before you unbolt the radiator from the Jeep, other wise it's nearly impossible to get the hose off.

While I had the grill off, I noticed that the power steering fluid return hose was loose at the steering box. Hopefully this explains the slow PS fluid leak I've had for the past 3 years. The steel hose was corroded to the nut but with some PB blaster and a lot of repetitive work, I got them loose and was able to tighten the nut without moving the hose. Note to self - buy 18mm flare nut wrench.

Next I really want to order the new leaf springs from Alcan, but between the springs, shocks, stock-sized pitman arm, and possibly some smaller shims, it's not going to be cheap. Oh, and getting it aligned after the work.

But, I so much want a softer ride, and I want the suspension to be slightly lower.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 09:37 AM   #1575
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New bumper

I'm in need of a replacement original factory front bumper. Does anyone in the Houston area have one they'd be willing to sell?

I posted a want ad also...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f34/w.../#post17253850

Thanks!
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