Ken's 1985 CJ7 refurbishment thread - Page 103 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Ken's 1985 CJ7 refurbishment thread

Jeep Wrangler Bushwacker Flat Fender Flare Sale at BaselinGear Installs at CCOR SpecialSavvy FOX IFP 4" Lift Shocks in Stock

Reply
Unread 09-03-2013, 01:11 PM   #1531
kickingprop
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,041
I have superlift springs also....its like driving a Sherman Tank.... Can't wait to do that axle swap/SOA/YJ conversion one of these days when finances allow...should ride like a cadillac by comparison then!

__________________
1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

Quote:
Chrome won't get you home...BUT Rattle Can Black may just get you back"
kickingprop is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2013, 08:42 PM   #1532
Ken4444
Corripe Cervisiam
 
Ken4444's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,603
I hung my head out the Jeep while driving slowly over the areas that make the underside creak and the sound is at least coming from the rear, if not the front also. So, I don't think it's a problem with the steering parts.

On a whim, I pulled out a deep well 3/4" socket and put it on the leaf spring U bolt nuts. I was able to tighten all of them at least one turn, if not two, working in an X pattern as much as possible. Some of the emitted a familiar sounding creak when first being tightened. I need to get a 3/4", deep well, 1/2" drive socket and put my torque wrench on them and set them to the proper torque. A quick round of research shows that they probably need to be between 55 and 100 ft lbs, probably toward the high side.

Anyhow perhaps I have found the problem. Only a test drive will tell.
__________________
"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
Ken4444 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-04-2013, 08:49 PM   #1533
Ken4444
Corripe Cervisiam
 
Ken4444's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,603
Good news. The creaking sound is 99.9% gone. I think once I tighten all of the U bolt nuts to around the same torque using a long wrench, the problem will be cured. I bid on a 1/2" drive to 3/8" drive ratchet adapter so I can use my 3/4" deep well socket on the torque wrench.

So, what's next? I'm thinking the radiator is probably the next major item. Oh, the Jetta is throwing a P0171 "System too lean (Bank 1)" OBDII code so I'm trying to track that down. I hardly ever drive the Jetta so it's not of huge importance. The first thing will be to remove and clean the mass airflow sensor which is a super quick project. There is a small chance this will fix the issue. It's probably never been cleaned anyhow.
__________________
"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
Ken4444 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-04-2013, 09:46 PM   #1534
VooDoo2
Registered User
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
Good news. The creaking sound is 99.9% gone. I think once I tighten all of the U bolt nuts to around the same torque using a long wrench, the problem will be cured. I bid on a 1/2" drive to 3/8" drive ratchet adapter so I can use my 3/4" deep well socket on the torque wrench.

So, what's next? I'm thinking the radiator is probably the next major item. Oh, the Jetta is throwing a P0171 "System too lean (Bank 1)" OBDII code so I'm trying to track that down. I hardly ever drive the Jetta so it's not of huge importance. The first thing will be to remove and clean the mass airflow sensor which is a super quick project. There is a small chance this will fix the issue. It's probably never been cleaned anyhow.
Replace the o2 sensors. Problem fixed.
VooDoo2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-05-2013, 07:34 AM   #1535
waterdowg
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: nj
Posts: 2,248
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
Good news. The creaking sound is 99.9% gone. I think once I tighten all of the U bolt nuts to around the same torque using a long wrench, the problem will be cured. I bid on a 1/2" drive to 3/8" drive ratchet adapter so I can use my 3/4" deep well socket on the torque wrench.

So, what's next? I'm thinking the radiator is probably the next major item. Oh, the Jetta is throwing a P0171 "System too lean (Bank 1)" OBDII code so I'm trying to track that down. I hardly ever drive the Jetta so it's not of huge importance. The first thing will be to remove and clean the mass airflow sensor which is a super quick project. There is a small chance this will fix the issue. It's probably never been cleaned anyhow.
Thats good news on the noise. As for the PO171. That could also be a dirty Mass Air Flow Sensor. I get that on my XJ everyonce in a while. I clear the code and see if it came back. It could have been from miss fire or even if you stomped on the gas going up a hill. If the code come back. Spray the Mass Air Flow sensor with Mass Air Flow cleaner and replace your Air Filter before you go changing the O2 sensor.
waterdowg is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-05-2013, 09:02 AM   #1536
Ken4444
Corripe Cervisiam
 
Ken4444's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,603
Quote:
Originally Posted by waterdowg View Post
Thats good news on the noise. As for the PO171. That could also be a dirty Mass Air Flow Sensor. I get that on my XJ everyonce in a while. I clear the code and see if it came back. It could have been from miss fire or even if you stomped on the gas going up a hill. If the code come back. Spray the Mass Air Flow sensor with Mass Air Flow cleaner and replace your Air Filter before you go changing the O2 sensor.
I hate to hijack my own thread, but I'm the one who started it

The PO171 code has come back once after being cleared. I drive the car very lightly so I suspect that it's a legitimate error and not a one-off.

My plan is to try these things in order and see if the error re-appears after each step: 1) Clean the mass airflow sensor. I picked up a can of cleaner. 2) Pull the O2 sensor and try to clean it. 3) Replace O2 sensor with new $180 one. ouch... I can get a Jeep CJ speedometer for that.

I have to take the wife's F150 to the mechanic to have the spark plugs changed. I have no time or tools to deal with the broken spark plug issue that is common to those 4.6 engines. What a lousy design. Being a 2008, there is a small chance that it has the engine that doesn't use the plugs that are prone to breaking, but I'm not going to be the person to find out It's just one of those things I'd rather pay to have someone else deal with.
__________________
"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
Ken4444 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-05-2013, 09:14 AM   #1537
JeepMonkey
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444

I hate to hijack my own thread, but I'm the one who started it

The PO171 code has come back once after being cleared. I drive the car very lightly so I suspect that it's a legitimate error and not a one-off.

My plan is to try these things in order and see if the error re-appears after each step: 1) Clean the mass airflow sensor. I picked up a can of cleaner. 2) Pull the O2 sensor and try to clean it. 3) Replace O2 sensor with new $180 one. ouch... I can get a Jeep CJ speedometer for that.

I have to take the wife's F150 to the mechanic to have the spark plugs changed. I have no time or tools to deal with the broken spark plug issue that is common to those 4.6 engines. What a lousy design. Being a 2008, there is a small chance that it has the engine that doesn't use the plugs that are prone to breaking, but I'm not going to be the person to find out It's just one of those things I'd rather pay to have someone else deal with.
Ken,
You are probably ok on the plug issue. I believe the issue was only on truck engines built before November 2007. Do not quote me on that but there is a pretty clear line as to when the problem was addressed.

Also, I would think about changing them yourself. You can buy the Lisle spark plug removal tool for $50 or less online and it isn't that difficult to use.

I have a 2007 F150 FX4 with the 5.4L engine. I elected to do it myself because my mechanic wanted $550 bucks to do the job. I am not going to lie to you and tell you that the job is the easiest thing to do. Actually, it's not that hard. Instead it is just takes more time and thought than a typical plug replacement. If I can do it, you can (Heck, I can't even figure out how to install a DUI in my jeep).

I have read your jeep thread and refer to it regularly. The work you have done to date is much harder than the f150 spark plug change.

There is a great you tube video that details each step of the process.

Edit: A Couple of additional thoughts
- You also need a specialize spark plug socket in addition to the Lisle tool.
- Tip: Make sure to torque the plugs properly to avoid a gasoline smell.
JeepMonkey is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-08-2013, 03:43 PM   #1538
Ken4444
Corripe Cervisiam
 
Ken4444's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,603
One step forward...

No photos today. The camera batteries were dead and I didn't have the desire to throw in a set of non-rechargeables on a temporary basis.

I spent 3 hours on the rear driver's side body mount. This was the only mount that gave me problems, so I skipped it during the initial install last weekend. The captured nut was spinning.

I opened up the sheet metal (in the wheelhouse area) to gain access to the area where the nut was. This revealed the small metal 'box' that held the nut in place. Even now I'm not sure exactly how the nut was spinning inside that housing, but it was. My only theory is that the metal housing was had partially become detached. The captured nut is big and tough: It's roughly a 2" x 1.5" x 1/4" thick plate with a threaded hole in the center.

I initially tired to spot weld the nut to the metal housing, but did not get any penetration because everything was dirty. Eventually I was able to pry up the edge of the metal housing to expose the side of the nut. I slid the nut out to clean and inspect it. I took some time to make sure the new bolt would fit cleanly into the nut, put the nut in the vise, and worked them apart and together a few times with some anti-seize until the fit was not so tight.

Then I put the nut back into the housing, clamped the housing down, bent the side closed again, and tack welded the housing back in place making sure the nut would still side around (side to side, front to back) but not spin.

I then removed all of the other body bolts on that side, jacked up that side of the tub, installed the new body mount, and then reinstalled all of the bolts. All of the body bolts on both sides were loose after settling in. I think the top bushings flattened out a bit.

So that leaves the last body mount bushing under the radiator.

In other news, I fired up the CJ to make the weekly grocery store run only to see it wasn't idling right. I popped the hood and heard a loud hissing sound. Pretty quickly I found that the vacuum hose to the brake booster was loose at the right angle where it enters the booster. I was able to push it back in place to stop the leak (or most of the leak), but clearly this is the next major repair to be done.

This needs to be repaired before the radiator or anything else. It's possible that this will fix the on/off vacuum leak I've had for a long time.

Brake boosters seem to run between about $75 and $125 for both new (omix ada) and reman. This is less than I had thought, but I'm surprised that the part is not more widely available. I thought this was a standard off-the-shelf part used by GM or Ford or whoever, but apparently not.

Oreilly Auto has # 54-73565 which is a reman for $94.99 plus core charge. Lifetime warranty. This looks to be the same part sold by all of the usual sources (rockauto, various ebay sellers)

Summit Racing has new, gold-zinc plated Tuff Stuff Brake Boosters 2231NB for $125.00 and free shipping and no sales tax which is great. They also have a chrome version but that won't get me home. I will have to look more into the Tuff Stuff brand. This is their website.

Does anyone have any other reliable source for a new brake booster for an '85?
__________________
"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
Ken4444 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-10-2013, 09:00 AM   #1539
Ken4444
Corripe Cervisiam
 
Ken4444's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,603
I have a new brake booster inbound. Tuff Stuff 2231NB. I also have a few assorted stainless steel nuts, bolts, and washers on the way.

I was driving to work this morning and the power brakes were definitely under powered. The idle has been high lately as well. It will be interesting to pull the old brake booster and see just how bad it is.

Here's one question: The brake vacuum line connects to a right angle connector that enters the brake booster. Should I be able to pull this angled connector loose from the booster with minimal effort? Or should it be permanently attached?
__________________
"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
Ken4444 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-10-2013, 09:21 AM   #1540
roboto65
Senior Member
 
roboto65's Avatar
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Conroe, Texas
Posts: 730
Well I would say it should be snug have you tried spraying starting fluid around it and see if your idle jumps up or down. That would for sure cause idle problems.
__________________
They say money can't buy happiness but it can buy Jeep parts...and Jeep parts make me really Happy.
roboto65 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-10-2013, 10:12 AM   #1541
Ken4444
Corripe Cervisiam
 
Ken4444's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,603
Quote:
Originally Posted by roboto65 View Post
Well I would say it should be snug have you tried spraying starting fluid around it and see if your idle jumps up or down. That would for sure cause idle problems.
In the past all of the times I used propane or some other flammable spray to check for leaks I've never found one. Now, however, if I press the right-angle piece in toward the booster, the idle will change. So I'm very sure there's a vacuum leak there. I could hit the area with some unburned MAP-Pro gas and see what happens.

If you figure that vacuum tube to the booster is subject to motion (from the engine moving on the mounts), but the booster doesn't move, then something has to give here. The vacuum hose will allow for some movement but it's a thick hose and not as flexible as something thinner. Also maybe this particular hose is old and hard. I have never replaced it. So perhaps the right-angle piece where it fits into the brake booster has finally worn out somehow from the motion over the years. If this is the original booster, which I believe it is, then I'm amazed it's lasted this long.

Again, I hope to know more when I pull out the old booster. I have a good understanding of how a brake booster works, but I have never seen the inside of one in real life. Because there is no core charge with a new brake booster, I could disassemble the old one before I discard it.
__________________
"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
Ken4444 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-10-2013, 10:27 AM   #1542
roboto65
Senior Member
 
roboto65's Avatar
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Conroe, Texas
Posts: 730
Yep any thing flammable perse lol maybe not the elbow but the rubber grommet is getting hard old rubber is the worst offender of leaks.
__________________
They say money can't buy happiness but it can buy Jeep parts...and Jeep parts make me really Happy.
roboto65 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-10-2013, 11:34 AM   #1543
Renegade82
Web Wheeler
 
Renegade82's Avatar
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown, PA
Posts: 3,829
Old rubbers can cause you several problems!
__________________
The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
Renegade82 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-10-2013, 11:52 AM   #1544
Ken4444
Corripe Cervisiam
 
Ken4444's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,603
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Old rubbers can cause you several problems!
Good thing Omix-Ada doesn't make birth control products.
__________________
"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
Ken4444 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-11-2013, 09:30 PM   #1545
Ken4444
Corripe Cervisiam
 
Ken4444's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,603
I updated the post my thread that has an index to the major work I've done: The index is in this post. It has links to the posts for the various major work like clutch, brakes, etc.

I use the index myself all the time if I need to locate part numbers, photos, or some other information that might be useful for someone else.
__________________
"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
Ken4444 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.