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Unread 08-21-2013, 08:57 AM   #1516
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spward View Post
Ken,
Are you just using 1/4 plate on top of your work bench to give you a welding platform for your smaller stuff? Nice mirror project.
Thanks. Yes it's a 12 x 12" steel plate, 1/4" thick. I can store it on the welding cart, it provides a flat and even surface for fitting up parts, and of course it conducts electricity so it works like a mini welding table. Pretty handy. I picked up at SSS steel which is the main steel yard I use.

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Unread 08-21-2013, 05:50 PM   #1517
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Triple-S is great, my favorite when I was in the Bayou City.
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Unread 08-27-2013, 07:13 AM   #1518
Ken4444
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Body mount washers

The OMIX-ADA body mount washers represent the fine quality that we have come to expect from this company.

The washers are all slightly bowed, convex/concave, or cupped. Pick your favorite description. The edges are also irregular between the top and the bottom of the washer: one side has a sharp edge that will cut you, the other side is more rounded. I don't know much about metal manufacturing, but I suspect they were stamped out of a large sheet of metal using a press, and this caused the curvature and the irregular edges.

If these were 2 cent roofing felt washers then I can accept irregularity, sharp edges, and bowing, but for over $4.00 each I was hoping for the same quality that I can get in SS washers a Turner Hardware.

Anyhow in spite of this, I believe the washers will work just fine.

Other observations:

Two of the washers have a larger diameter hole, however I assume this is to accommodate 2 larger bolts. The washers are of a thickness that seems to match the original washers that are on my '85. Based on the shipping address on the box, the parts appear to have drop shipped from OMIX-ADA.

Perhaps during the upcoming long weekend I can get them installed.
jeep-body-mount-washers-1.jpg

jeep-body-mount-washers-2.jpg

jeep-body-mount-washers-3.jpg

jeep-body-mount-washers-4.jpg

jeep-body-mount-washers-5.jpg

jeep-body-mount-washers-6.jpg

jeep-body-mount-washers-7.jpg

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Last edited by Ken4444; 08-27-2013 at 07:15 AM.. Reason: Forgot the photos.
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Unread 08-27-2013, 09:13 AM   #1519
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Ken I can't remember on the CJ tub but I do know my YJ tub has 7/16" and 3/8" bolts in the mounts. Those washers may have been made for both, reason for the two larger holes. You're assumption is correct on why the washers are cupped. They were stamped. Cheap way to make them, as you've found out. Nice hat rack too by the way!
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Unread 08-27-2013, 10:35 AM   #1520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
Triple-S is great, my favorite when I was in the Bayou City.
Other than the huge inventory and great prices, what impressed me with Triple S was their willingness to deal with a small order, such as under $50. In addition to the huge warehouse, they also have a retail store where you can browse around and look at smaller item, consumables, and tools. Plus if you get there early enough on Saturday morning they have free doughnuts.

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Nice hat rack too by the way!
Thanks! It's amazing how a clean MIG gun enables one to produce good welds. Lesson learned.
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Unread 08-28-2013, 07:40 AM   #1521
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This post is just to complain about my current list of needed repairs and just emptying every pocket, and to reflect on the situation.

Current list of things in immediate need of repair:
  1. Body mount creaking: So I have what I believe is the necessary hardware to replace the body mounts. The OMX-ADA washers are inferior but I'm going to use them. It occurred to me that the whole point of a washer is to distribute a load over a larger surface area, but a bowed/curved washer does not do this. It concentrates the load in a specific area. Cost so far is roughly $70 for the poly mounts, $45 for the washers, maybe $10 for the bolts, and $1.00 for some copper anti-seize from of the existing tube.
  2. Odometer: Been broken for a couple of months. This of course makes it difficult to accurately time oil changes and other work. I have yet to pull the speedo out of the dash to examine it but the worst case is a new speedo/odometer for $150, plus a couple of hours to swap it out and move over all of the connections. This will likely require loosening dash panel.
  3. Ignition key release lever: Is malfunctioning. I have to pull the lever forward then down before I can turn the key cylinder to turn off the ignition and remove the key. Something is fouled up in the steering column, probably mechanically worn out. At least I have some experience in that area, but it's not a job I look forward to. Cost: Unknown at this time, but figure a minimum of $15 if I have to buy at least one part.
  4. Radiator: Still leaking. After pondering getting it repaired or buying the tools to attempt a fix, I think the best way to proceed is to buy a new radiator which will set me back probably $250 for a new brass one.

That's at least $541.00 just to keep the CJ running in good condition.

I can complain all day, but it could be worse. The Jeep gets me around town reliably on daily basis, only because I am my own mechanic and can do the work without paying cash for labor. As I have written in other threads, vehicles were not and are not designed to last for 30 years. An old vehicle even in running condition is going to need a steady supply of repairs and parts if driven regularly. The original parts were just not intended to last this long, and a Jeep has a lot of parts.

What I really want is to retire, move out to my father-in-law's 50 acres in East Texas, use his 50 x 30 foot shop and spend 3 years restoring something like:
  • An old CJ5
  • An early 80's single-cab, short bed, step-side F150 4x4
  • A mid 90's, Chevy 454 SS truck, or build something similar, lowered, with classic Cragar wheels, super shiny black paint, that is really, really fast.

    Or all of them.
...but I have to keep working to support the baby boomers' Social Security payments.
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Unread 08-28-2013, 08:41 AM   #1522
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Keep up the good work Ken. Saving on labor is a big plus in owning one of these things and I have found that if it isn't one thing, its another. My Excel spreadsheet on wants and needs continues to get bigger but the time devoted to the projects gets smaller. Now that Fall is upon us, I might be able to dedicate more time to getting things done.
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Unread 08-28-2013, 01:30 PM   #1523
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Ken, what side of town do you call home?
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Unread 08-28-2013, 01:49 PM   #1524
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Quote:
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Ken, what side of town do you call home?
West side, near I-10 and Beltway 8.
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Unread 08-28-2013, 03:36 PM   #1525
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Those body mount washers don't look to bad and are a lot cheaper than the 1/4" thick ones I purchased from McMaster-Carr.com. And yes, they are called Jumbo Washers. The ones from McMaster-Carr were close to $20.00 a piece, depending on which size you purchased. All of them Stainless Steel.

The Front Grill and the two Toe Board mount washer are a little larger then the rest and is the reason I had to use another flat washer because the hole in the center was a little larger than the bolt diameter being used. They worked great but like I said, expensive!

I don't know why I have the CAD drawings of the steel ones instead of the stainless ones I purchased. I'll edit the posting later when I fine the correct CAD for the stainless versions.



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Unread 08-28-2013, 05:48 PM   #1526
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Ken,

It takes me 1.25 hrs to get to Katy Mills, you are more than welcome to bring your radiator and braze the crack. I have an O/A rig with gas in the tanks, a welding tip and Weld-It 770137 3/32 flux coated brass rod. You would need to see if this is the correct rod for the type of repair you have.

While you are here you can flatten the washers in the shop press.

You could pick up Calvin on your way through Old Katy too
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Unread 09-02-2013, 09:07 PM   #1527
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Body mount bushing replacement

Good news and bad news. First, the good.

I got the new body mount bushings, bolts, and washers replaced. I did all of them except the front one and the driver's side rear which will require I open up the sheet metal and probably re-weld the captured nut.

As usual, I took some photos along the way.

I had already loosened up all of the bolts so that part was out of the way. The mounts in front of the rear wheels were the rustiest. The mid and forward ones weren't too bad.

Here's the rust, dirt, and debris that came off the aforementioned mount in front of the driver's side rear wheel:



After you get all of the bolts out on one side (and I loosened the bolts on the other side a couple of turns), you jack up that side of the tub. Here's my rig:

(it almost looks like the 2x4 is on the aluminum trim piece, but it's actually on the bottom side of the tub)



Here's the mount with the tub partially lifted up:



Here, I've hacked at it with a screwdriver and hammer, and lifted the tub a bit higher. At this point I'm not understanding that I need to get the tub about 3" high to get enough to do the work right.



Finally, I get the old debris out. The trick I finally figured out was to hit the bottom of the old bushing with a hammer to push it up and out.

I used a small stainless steel brush (picked it up at the gun show for a buck) on the 4 mounts with rust. I cleaned them off then dabbed on some rust converter before installing the new bushings.

(One word of warning: Don't trust your health to a low-end Chinese-made jack, or any jack for that matter. While the tub is lifted, take the time to block it or brace it with some static supports that will prevent the tub from crashing down on your hand if the jack fails)



Here we see the new bushing in place, along with some un-cured rust converter:



If you've never done this before, this image and the previous image will be very helpful. They show you exactly how the parts fit together before they're tightened down.

The bushing with its imbedded metal collar sits in the top, and the other poly piece sticks on from the bottom. Then a bolt with washer sticks up into the captured nut in the tub to hold it all together:



It was pretty weird seeing the tub sit at an angle:



Here's the little stainless steep brush I used to knock off some rust. It's like a tooth brush:



Here's the rear passenger-side bushing hole after some clean up. It had some rust around it.



Here are most of the parts I removed. Some of them were not too bad. Others were severely worn. I had to burn out 2 bushings with a torch, and let me tell you.. that makes a huge mess. The melted/burned rubber turns into a tar substance that its difficult to remove from tools, skin, the garage floor, etc.



Like many Jeep projects, once you deal with a few of these then you start to work more efficiently. After doing one side, I was able to do the other side a bit faster. If I had to do it all again I would have a better appreciation for the hurdles and potential problems.

Some of the most worn pieces:



There was a question about where the larger (in height) bushings go. The installation directions (below) have them in position #3, however my CJ had the old ones in position #2. More specifically, my CJ only had one large bushing (driver's side). The passenger side #2 looked like all of the others.



To be honest, I don't know why there are different size bushings for position #2 (or #3). There is probably a good reason but it's lost on me.

As far as bolt sizes, the details in my earlier post about bolt sizes seemed to work out fine (although I didn't try the new bolt in the front mount yet)

Oh, the bad news: The new bushings didn't fix the creaking sound I hear when the frame flexes. I spent 15 minutes to lower the transmission mount/cross member about 1/4 inch, apply lithium grease between that and the frame, and re-tighten the 6 bolts. My theory was the crossmember was creaking. No luck. That didn't change a thing.

At least I have new body mounts though. I still need to do the front one under the radiator and the rear/driver's side one, but it's been a long, long weekend so I'm done for now.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 07:21 AM   #1528
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Ken, thanks for the writeup. Body mount bushing replacement has been on my to-do list for at least 4yrs now and I keep shying away from tackling it...and some of those pictures are exactly why I dont want to mess with it! Good on ya!
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1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

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Unread 09-03-2013, 08:23 AM   #1529
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Ken, thanks for the writeup. Body mount bushing replacement has been on my to-do list for at least 4yrs now and I keep shying away from tackling it...and some of those pictures are exactly why I dont want to mess with it! Good on ya!
Thanks!

The work wasn't tough at all. It was far easier then removing and installing the transmission and transfer case. It's a job you can potentially do in half a day and you don't need any special tools. The biggest potential problem is if the bolts are rusted in place, but you can take the time to work on those one at a time over a period of days or weeks. If you end up with broken bolts or broken captured nuts, then yes then the work will take 10x longer. Anyone who has done some reading about body mount bushing replacement will have read about dealing with rusted bolts. I can vouch for the heat method. If you use plenty of heat and go slow with your wrench, then you really minimize the possibility of breaking the capture nut loose. When using heat, be ready to deal with a flaming rubber bushing and dripping burning rubber. I would have a fire extinguisher handy just in case.

With regard to the continuing creaking sound coming from my CJ, I had this thought this morning:

When I turn the steering wheel to back out of the garage each morning, I hear a slight creak in relation to the steering movement. Also, I've noticed that my steering is a bit more loose lately. So I suspect that the steering hardware probably needs to be inspected. I haven't touched any of that since I've had the CJ. I probably need to review this thread:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/wh...-loose-445430/

I've never been able to 100% determine if the creaking sound comes from the front or back of the Jeep, but I've always estimated that it was coming from both ends. I'd like to get someone else to drive the CJ while I hang my head down between the wheels so I can finally determine the general area of the sound.
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Unread 09-03-2013, 08:31 AM   #1530
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Oh, about ride quality with the new poly bushings: There is perhaps a slight improvement in ride quality with regard to small bumps and small road imperfections, but any improvement is very minor compared to the SuperLift leaf springs which provide the ride quality of an empty dump truck. So the bottom line is that I still need to replace those springs. At this point I'm hesitant to go as far as the YJ spring option, but I have no idea which brand of springs I'd use.
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