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Unread 08-12-2013, 06:13 PM   #1501
rixcj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post

In hopes of making process to fix my leaky radiator, I endeavored to try brazing with MAP gas and a flux-coated brazing rod. No good. The rod didn't even melt.

Then I picked up one of these (Bernzomatic OX2550KC Oxy/Map-Pro Torch Kit) in hopes that the higher heat would be what I needed, but the damn thing won't stay lit. I can't get a workable flame out of the thing to save my life. As soon as I crank up the oxygen very, very slowly, the flame pops in and out but can't hold steady and eventually blows itself out. The kit is a complete POS. Don't waste your money on this.

I did manage to use my MAP gas (only) torch to heat the body mount bolt under the radiator enough to get it out in one piece.
MAPP gas burns quite a bit hotter than MAP gas. Unfortunately, MAPP gas is no longer produced. Here's a Wikipedia summary of changeover...

MAPP gas no longer produced.

On April 30, 2008, the Petromont Varennes plant closed its methylacetylene/propadiene plant.[2] They were the only North American plant making MAPP gas, and the only legal supplier of trademarked MAPP gas in the world. This caused a widescale shortage, and many substitutes were introduced by the companies [citation needed] who had repackaged the Dow and Varennes product(s). Most of these substitutes were propylene, like MAP//Pro [3] from BernzOmatic. Some were mixtures with higher hydrocarbons or with other ingredients like acetone [citation needed]. None get anywhere near as hot as actual MAPP gas when burned using air.


Rich

PS....unless anyone plans on gas welding (which is fabulous, BTW, it's like tig welding with an oxy/acetylene torch...) propane is very sufficient for most brazing, and cutting tasks. A propane torch tip is required, though. You can't use an acetylene tip with propane gas.

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Unread 08-15-2013, 06:18 PM   #1502
Ken4444
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These (not the cat) came in today from Jegs which were a few bucks cheaper than Summit Racing. I still need to buy bolts and washers locally. On Saturday I will probably put in a morning of work on my landscaping project and then pick up the bolts after lunch.

The body mount bushings came with a good instruction sheet that clearly explains where the different sizes go. Each size has a number molded into it for easy identification.

The color of the things is more than red; it is more like a glowing candy apple red.

The last pic is the body mount bolt from under the radiator. It came out without too much work after being heated with MAP gas for about 3 minutes. The old rubber bushing caught on fire and bits of flaming rubber were streaming down on my arms while I was holding the torch to the bolt head. My son quickly observed that I should have worn my long welding gloves.
jeep-cj-new-body-mount-bushings.jpg

jeep-cj-new-body-mount-bushings-2jpg.jpg

jeep-cj-radiator-center-body-mount-bolt.jpg

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Unread 08-15-2013, 10:34 PM   #1503
Jester77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
These (not the cat) came in today from Jegs which were a few bucks cheaper than Summit Racing. I still need to buy bolts and washers locally. On Saturday I will probably put in a morning of work on my landscaping project and then pick up the bolts after lunch.

The body mount bushings came with a good instruction sheet that clearly explains where the different sizes go. Each size has a number molded into it for easy identification.

The color of the things is more than red; it is more like a glowing candy apple red.
Let us know if that improves the ride any. I may get a set if it does.
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Unread 08-16-2013, 08:19 AM   #1504
Ken4444
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Originally Posted by Jester77 View Post
Let us know if that improves the ride any. I may get a set if it does.
My thinking is that the poly bushings will not improve ride quality because they are harder than the stock rubber ones. The only rubber ones I could find were from Crown or Omix-ada and I did not want to send them any money because I am unhappy with the poor quality of those parts in general, especially for the prices they charge.

I have pretty much decided that my CJ will generally ride like a dump truck until I replace the leaf springs. The rubber shackle bushings and new shock absorbers did make a good difference in ride quality, but I think the CJ is just too light for the springs under it. If I load the CJ down with 200 or 300 pounds of weight, the ride quality is good.
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Unread 08-16-2013, 09:10 AM   #1505
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I honestly don't think you'll notice any difference in the poly bushings, as far as ride quality, regardless of what springs are on the Jeep.
Bill
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Unread 08-16-2013, 09:18 AM   #1506
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Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
I honestly don't think you'll notice any difference in the poly bushings, as far as ride quality, regardless of what springs are on the Jeep.
Bill
You're probably right. The existing bushings are soon old, hard, worn, and flat that it seems unlikely they are providing any ride quality benefit.
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Unread 08-16-2013, 09:55 AM   #1507
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Hey Ken, big fan of your site and documentation. Infact just ordered a set of bushings from Jegs based on your recommendation. Please let us know what size bolts and washers you end up getting. Thanks.
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Unread 08-16-2013, 12:34 PM   #1508
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Originally Posted by nichboy View Post
Hey Ken, big fan of your site and documentation. Infact just ordered a set of bushings from Jegs based on your recommendation. Please let us know what size bolts and washers you end up getting. Thanks.
I got the following details from this Jeepforum post:
Under radiator:

(1) 7/16 14 TPI x 2 1/2"

Two behind the front tires:

(2) 3/8 16 TPI x 3"

Next two sets and the two on either side of the gas tank:

(6) 3/8 16 TPI x 2 1/2"

Rear bumper pair:

(2) 7/16 14 TPI x 2 1/2"
Use these figures with caution. I can't confirm these are correct. I also don't know which washers I will need either.
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Unread 08-16-2013, 10:27 PM   #1509
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I think you are going to notice a ride difference simply because the bushings are new and your original ones are 28 years old. I was able to notice it on mine when I swapped my originals out for a daystar 1" body lift.
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Unread 08-20-2013, 10:56 AM   #1510
Ken4444
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Originally Posted by MoC View Post
I think you are going to notice a ride difference simply because the bushings are new and your original ones are 28 years old. I was able to notice it on mine when I swapped my originals out for a daystar 1" body lift.
That's a valid point. I will certainly report back on the ride quality change. Hopefully the new bushings will eliminate the %@!# creaking that I hear every time I drive over uneven pavement that torques the frame.

I spent way to much time trying to find body mount washers. At first I was going to just clean up and re-use the original washers but somehow I decided not too. The original washers are heavy-duty: 1/8" thick, 1/2" inner diameter hole, and about 2 3/8" outer diameter. Try to find those in a stainless steel equivalent and you'll be searching a long time. Plus, the prices for stainless washers in that size range are not cheap.

McMaster has part # 92303A109 which is close in size, but not exact. You can also search their site for "Jumbo washers" and see a few other sizes. They're asking for $10.31 for a pack of 5 washers. Shipping with those guys is typically about $6.00.

Keith460 replied to a post on Jeeps unlimted .com with a photo showing the washers he used but it looked like he used a smaller washer with the larger fender washer. Presumably he got these from McMaster.

My local stainless hardware place had 2" stainless fender washers but they were barely 1/16" thick and just didn't have the heft and heavy feel of the original ones.

I looked at several websites for places selling large washers, and no one had anything that looked to be an exact reproduction of what came off my Jeep, but in a stainless version. Any washers that were even close were between $4 and $10 each and those typically had an internal diameter of nearly 1 inch which is too large unless I were to use a second washer which I don't want to do.

I finally decided to go with Omix-ada 912217.02. This is a set of 2" stainless washers, apparently a quantity of 10. I don't know why it's not 11. Of course all descriptions for this product lack any real size data. All of the usual vendors sell this part number, but cseoffroad.com had it for $37.72 shipped which beat everyone else by about $10 after you figure in shipping.

So I don't know if this was the right choice but we'll see. These are costing me $3.77 per washer which is on the high side, but hopefully they'll be about 1/8" thick and have a small enough inner diameter so the washer won't shift around on the bolt. I will post details after they show up. It's amazing how much time one can burn just web wheeling for a single, specific kind of part.

So I have the poly bushings, grade 8 bolts, and now the washers. I also picked up some rubber bump stops for between the hood and grill.

My latest thinking on the radiator leak is to use JB Weld on it. If that doesn't work, or when it quits working, then I'll buy a new radiator.
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Unread 08-20-2013, 02:13 PM   #1511
Guy Smilie
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Ken, Instead of the JB Weld have you considered soldering it like you would if running copper for plumping? I know it's not has good as brazing but might fix your problem for now.

Ernie
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Unread 08-20-2013, 09:22 PM   #1512
Ken4444
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Ever since I've had the CJ, the rear view mirror mounting scheme has been less than ideal. I re-glued it to the windshield 2 or 3 times and it would never stay on, perhaps because the glass in that area is scratched.

Maybe 2 years ago I rigged up a mount with 2 rubber suction cups and a strip of metal that was screwed in using one of the screws for the footman loop at the top center of the windshield frame. That worked OK but still allowed a lot of mirror vibration, in part because the rubber suction cups allowed for motion. They would also lose suction every few days and I'd have to press them back on.

Fast forward a couple years and I bought a bag of 50 larger, plasic suction cups so I could build a video camera wind shield mount. I didn't need 50 but it was the problem as buying stuff at McMaster Carr: sometimes buying a whole bag is only slightly more expensive then the much smaller amount that you actually need.

After seeing how well these new suction cups worked, I figured I could re-work the rear view mirror mount. With my newly cleaned MIG gun, any kid can make workable welds with my Miller so I have been eager to do a quick welding project.

The welds were fantastic (for me, at least) and I didn't have to grind any of them. I just made spot welds since the steel pieces were small and only 1/8" thick. The final project turned out to be rock solid on the test drive. I think it would hold 10 pounds or more. No more mirror vibration, at least at low test speeds. I painted it after taking these photos.

As a bonus, I welded on a hook. Hooks are so handy and having the ability to weld them on to steel objects is pretty cool. So, it's one more small project knocked out!

On a welding side note, having the welder has been very handy. I have done at least a dozen small welding jobs for friends, family, and people in the neighborhood over the last couple of years. The last project was fixing the lawnmower grass catcher bag frame for a neighbor. The original weld popped loose and the bag was generally useless with the broken frame.
jeep-rearview-mirror-mount-1-800.jpg

jeep-rearview-mirror-mount-2-800.jpg

jeep-rearview-mirror-mount-3-800.jpg

jeep-rearview-mirror-mount-4-800.jpg

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Unread 08-20-2013, 09:27 PM   #1513
lucdog
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I used 3 different glues from the auto part stores. No luck with any of them with trying to hold the mirror to the windshield. I ended up using regular old super glue, haven't had a problem since.

Nice bracket you made for yours.
Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 08-20-2013, 09:31 PM   #1514
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guy Smilie View Post
Ken, Instead of the JB Weld have you considered soldering it like you would if running copper for plumping? I know it's not has good as brazing but might fix your problem for now.
Ernie
That's a good suggestion. That's probably worth trying before I go the JB weld route.
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Unread 08-21-2013, 09:52 AM   #1515
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Ken,
Are you just using 1/4 plate on top of your work bench to give you a welding platform for your smaller stuff? Nice mirror project.
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