Ken's 1985 CJ7 refurbishment thread - Page 31 - JeepForum.com

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post #451 of 2579 Old 10-15-2010, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
Ken4444
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Idle problems

The CJ started giving me idle problems yesterday. It was happening when both hot and cold. The basic problem was the same as before: The engine idles roughly and almot dies. The exhaust gets dirty/smelly as if it's too rich and there is a lot of incomplete combustion. The problem seemed to come and go suddenly. With the new tach, I saw something new: The needle would bounce/vibrate rapidly within a band of about 100 RPM when the idle was suffering. This is probably no different than before, but now I can see the effect with the new tach.

I checked the usual things: vac lines OK, distributor locked in place, carburetor bolted down tightly and idle/base idle screws looked OK. Spark plug wires seated OK.

I noticed oil around the grommet where the PCV valve fits into the valve cover which was unusual.

I popped in another new PCV valve this morning and this cleared up the idle problem, at least for now. Later, I pulled the old PCV valve and cleaned it with some carb cleaner and a fair amount of dark fluid came out. The valve was much more clicky than before cleaning and sounded more like the new one.

So I'm wondering if these valves just don't last, or the engine is creating a condition that's killing them. This explains why the valve I pulled off the engine a month ago looked pretty new... it probably was.

The valve cover does have a baffle under the hole where the PCV valve sits, so that's good.

I put the old, cleaned PCV valve in my tool bag.


"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #452 of 2579 Old 10-15-2010, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
Very nice! I like it.

I'll be enlisting some help from a wood working friend over the winter for this same type of console.
Thanks! I used 1/4" cabinet grade birch plywood for the cupholder. I glued the whole thing together over 2 days and then came back with some very small wood screws for strength.

For the diameter of the cup hole, I pulled 3 or 4 cups from the kitchen and amazingly they were all the same diameter at the tops and bottoms, even though they were different heights. So it was easy to come up with a hole diameter that seems like it will work with different cups. We'll see.

The remaining big drawback is the lack of a storage space in/on the console. I was gearing up to make a shallow (3") storage cabinet to be bolted on top of the console, but haven't had time. It's on the back burner at this point.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #453 of 2579 Old 10-31-2010, 07:46 PM
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Hey Ken that cup holder turned out great!
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post #454 of 2579 Old 10-31-2010, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Ken that cup holder turned out great!
Thanks. I used it again today, and I use the small storage shelf at the bottom almost every day. I mostly put USB flash drives with music there.

I finally got the rear view mirror to a workable state, but I need to paint it black.

I have noticed that my shackle hanger nuts keep working themselves off the bolts. I have lost a couple.

I haven't done much work on the CJ lately. The weather has been so great I have just enjoyed driving it. I haven't had a top on it in a month. I still need to get the gas gauge working. Then there are those pesky rust holes...

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #455 of 2579 Old 10-31-2010, 08:03 PM
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I wouldn't want to trust my life to that belt extension. I can just imagine the amount of force applied to it with a bolt that long
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post #456 of 2579 Old 10-31-2010, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
I still need to get the gas gauge working. Then there are those pesky rust holes...


Just got mine working.
Bought a new Fuel Gauge Fuel Gauge, Inside Cluster*8126919 by the Jeep Specialists | Morris 4x4 Center installed it and NO GO.
Looked at it the following weekend. The ground from the sending unit was poorly attached to the frame. Cleaned up the connection point and BAM. It is still a little bit off but it's less of a guessing game now.
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post #457 of 2579 Old 10-31-2010, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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I wouldn't want to trust my life to that belt extension. I can just imagine the amount of force applied to it with a bolt that long
Yes, that is certainly a concern. The geometry is changed considerably, that's for sure. But even if the welded nut were to break loose under the tub, the assmebly should still remain attached to the floor. Plus, you have to figure that the pull on the bolt is mostly up and not sideways, so that's putting less stress on the nut welds.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #458 of 2579 Old 10-31-2010, 08:10 PM
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in a collision the force will be forward. It's your life not mine. I would think one of the longer belt ends like I posted somewhere in this thread would be much safe. You have gone from having all the force in a sandwiched metal situation to having it on the end of a lever...... not good.
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post #459 of 2579 Old 10-31-2010, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
I have noticed that my shackle hanger nuts keep working themselves off the bolts. I have lost a couple.
Ken, what kind of nuts are you using? Did you install the Nylock nuts (Bastard Nuts)? They shouldn't work their way off. Or, there is actually an all metal lock nut. Your hardware store should have either in stock. That gives me the creeps knowing that they came off...

If you were Dave I'd say your neighbor was stealing them!

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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #460 of 2579 Old 11-06-2010, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Brake light switch replacement

After having my brake lights get stuck "on" on several occasions, it was time to replace the brake light switch.

This project was a bi*(h because getting to the switch is a very, very difficult.

Here, you see the old and new switches. They're 99% identical. The new one came with two cheap pressed nuts:



To get better access to the switch, you need to disconnect 3 wiring harnesses that are snaped in to connectors on the steering column.

Here you see where the switch goes. There are two holes. The switch is installed in the TOP hole, indicated with the "Yes" in the photo. The switch does not go in the lower hole, marked as "No" in the photo:



It was tough enough to get the old switch out. If I hadn't been able to put my feet up on the workbench, I'd never have been able to get in a position to work on this. I would have had to remove the dash and steering column. My back will never be the same.

I ended up trying to unscrew to the old switch but after 2 or 3 turns I couldn't get it out. I couldn't get a socket on it and there wasn't really much room for a wrench anyhow. There was no way I could get Channel Locks or any pliers up there. Finally, I just pushed really hard on the switch and it popped out. When it popped out, it also blew up into 3 pieces. Mission accomplished, half way.

In the small (upper) hole, the switch in my CJ was installed in a small round sleeve. To install the new switch, I tried to screw the new switch back into the hole where the old one was. NO luck. I lubed it with diaelectric grease and then with some WD-40. No good. I worked on this for 30 minutes with no luck, trying various tools and objects to get the switch to screw in.

Finally, I ended up crimping and removing this sleeve. That allowed me to install the new switch without screwing it in.

I then used the nuts that came with the new switch to hold it in place.

In retrospect, you could probably stick the switch into the sleeve, and then cram that back into the hole. That's probably how it was assembled at the factory.

Here's the small metal sleeve:





I'm glad to have this done. I hope it holds in there OK.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #461 of 2579 Old 11-06-2010, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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More gas gauge troubleshooting

In the mood to knock out another Jeep project, I thought i'd pick up work on the fuel gauge.

I dropped the gas tank foolishly without thinking how much gas was in it.

Every post you read about dropping the gas tank advises that you remove as much gas as possible. Oops.

I dropped the tank enough to get to the electrical connections on the top. This of course required disconnecting the filler and vent lines, pulling 3 rear skid bolts and the 6 or so front nuts. Also had to get out the floor jacks, jack stands, and a bucket of 2x4 blocks.

Even with the tank nearly full, I dropped it and exposed the top of the sender.

I had completed all of the necessary tests when I realized that my test clips (short lengths of wires with aligator clips at each end) were such poor quality that they were not always working. The wires were never soldered to the clips; they were crimped in along with the wire's insulation. On top of that, the stranded wire had what looked like only 10 thin strands. Total junk.

So this invalidated all of my tests.

I spend the next hour rebuilding the test clip wires using good quality wire with soldered connections.

I re-ran the tests and determined:

1) Gound wire to the tank is good, with less than 1 ohm resistance.
2) Sender is good, giving expected ohm reading
3) I'm getting nothing from the wire going from the gauge to the sender. According to John Strenk's page, I should get a flickering test light.

So next is to drop the dash again and re-test the gauge cluster.

I was able to reinstall the tank without too much difficulty, although had it been nearly empty I would have saved a small amount of time.

The trick to droppping the tank and using a floor jack is to get the jack centered on the tank just right. The left-right centering is pretty easy, but the front-back positioning is more tricky since the bottom of the tank angles up at the rear.

Typically you might have to tweak the position of the jack forward or backward 1/2 inch at a time to hit the sweet spot.

Once the tank is centered on the jack, then it will be fairly stable but have enough play so you can tweak it one way or the other while trying to get it up or down.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #462 of 2579 Old 11-09-2010, 06:08 AM
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I just got mine working.
I pulled the gauge while I had the dash apart. Tested it according to Strenk's procedures and found the gauge to be bad. Ordered a new one and still no go. When all else fells, start looking at grounds. The sender was grounded to a bad spot on the frame. Cleaned it up, redid the connection and I can finally tell how much gas I have.
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post #463 of 2579 Old 11-09-2010, 09:08 PM
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I like the tach Ken, it looks good on the column too


1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #464 of 2579 Old 11-13-2010, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Installed the new Autometer 2624 fuel gauge and it works like a champ. I wired it directly to the factory pink and red fuel gauge wires by using male bullet connectors that plug right into the factory female connectors. By doing that I didn't have to cut off the factory connectors.

Part of me says I should have put the time and money into getting the factory fuel/temp gauges working (by replacing them) but perhaps that's a future project. RIght now I'm happy to finally have a working gas gauge. I like the Autometer gauges and aftermarket gauges just give a much more detailed view of what's going on, which I like. Photos later.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #465 of 2579 Old 11-21-2010, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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New Autometer fuel gauge for sale. While being distracted by the kids, I bought the wrong gauge. It's for a CJ, but it didn't have the chrome trim ring. It's new and unopened. $34.00 shipped within the US, Paypal only. PM me if you're interested! My chrome version works like a champ.








"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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