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Ken's 1985 CJ7 refurbishment thread

999K views 3K replies 267 participants last post by  John Strenk 
#1 · (Edited)


My intent is not to rebuild this CJ. I don't have the time, money, or patience for that. I want to drive my CJ.

But, like most CJs, this one needs work. While it generally looks OK and has a generally solid frame, it has some common problems.

Here's the thread I posted when I first found this Jeep. It has lots of photos and details:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/your-opinions-1985-cj-7-a-1036735/

Here's the thread I posted after buying her:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/just-drove-her-home-1985-cj-7-a-1039261/

So, this thread will catalog the work I on this CJ. I will attempt to post photos to keep it interesting.

This will not be a frame off restore. My intent is to fix and refurbish things as I go along, slowly improving the looks, performance, and reliability. I hope for this CJ to be a 50% daily diriver.

EDIT 4/19/2011: I have included an index to the major work I've done on this Jeep. Here's the page with the index:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/k...ment-thread-1040550/index45.html#post11394398
Ken B.

:cheers2:
 
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#667 · (Edited)
Index to major projects in this thread

Here is an index to the projects that are documented in this thread. The goal here is to enable you (and me) to find something quickly. This is not meant to include everything I have done on the Jeep. It includes the more major jobs and leaves out most of the cosmetic work. The jobs are generally listed in chronological order.

Spare tire repaint

Switch from 33 to 31" tires

Team Rush install

T5 boot replacement

Bypass hose install

Shock absorber install

Heater box disassembly

Heater box rebuild

Apply new Jeep vinyl decal

Valve cover replacement (first attempt)

Clutch bellcrank replacement

Post Nutter bypass wiring removal

Stereo Install part 1

Stereo install part 2

Stereo install part 3

Stereo install part 4

Stereo install, next part (part 5)

Stereo install, Epicenter (part 6)

Stereo install, cup holder for subwoofer enclosure

Gas tank removal

Gas tank reinstall and sender install

Brake light switch replacement

AMC 20 differential fluid fill

Tire carrier rattle / hinge bolt fix and bracket fabrication

Engine belt replacement

Disc brake service, part 1

Disc brake service, part 2

Drum brake service, part 1

Drum brake service, part 2

Axle inner oil seal replacement

Valve cover install, attempt #2

Exterior paint sanding and refresh

Exhaust system replacement

GM tilt steering column repair

Davis Unified Ignition (DUI) HEI distrubutor install

Start of tub repair work - Sport bar bolt removal

Tub interior paint stripping - part 1

Tub interior paint stripping - part 2

Tub interior paint stripping - part 3

Tub interior paint stripping (tail gate) and sheetmetal removal

Tub repair - sheetmetal removal

Tub sheetmetal repair - welding prep and welder setup

Tub sheetmetal repair - actual welding

Tub sheetmetal repair - stripping, welding, body filler

Tub sheetmetal repair - continued body work

Tub sheetmetal repair - continued body work #2

Dash panel repair and restoration

Tub interior - primer and paint

Tub interior - reinstall everything

Custom seat belt extensions

Interior restore - Before and after photos

Crabtree shackles and rubber bushings

Brass heater hose adapter fittings

Dana 300 fluid change

Water pump replacement

15 gallon fuel tank parts #1

15 gallon fuel tank parts #2

15 gallon fuel tank install

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #1 (driveshaft removal)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #2 (new clutch parts)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #3 (u-joint removal, driveshaft clean and paint)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #4 (T5 removal)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #5 (T5 removal, more)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #6 (clutch and bellhousing removal)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #7 (Dana 300 cleaning)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #8 (Dana 300 painting)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #9 (Bellhousing cleanup)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #10 (Oil pan removal and repaint)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #11 (T-5 reinstall)

Driveshaft, D300, T5, clutch work #12 (Dana 300 reinstall)

Oil pan reinstall

AMC 20 differential cover gasket replacement

Spare wheel re-strip and re-paint

Master Cylinder prep work

Master Cylinder install

Tatton's front driveshaft

Rear view mirror custom mounting bracket

Body mount bushing replacement: new bushings

Body mount bushing replacement: washers

Body mount bushing replacement: Installation

Brake booster removal

Brake booster installation

Speedometer disassembly and assembly

New radiator

Skyjacker Softride 2.5" springs

Skyjacker Softride 2.5" springs - part 2

Aluminum side trim removal, cleaning, reinstall

Aluminum side trim removal, cleaning, reinstall - part 2

Exterior body rust repair - hole under windshield hinge

Exterior body rust repair - hinge removal, donor sheet metal

Exterior body rust repair - removing the big holes

Exterior body rust repair - patching in the donor triangle

Exterior body rust repair - fitting more new metal

Exterior body rust repair - fitting more new metal, 2

Exterior body rust repair - rear corner dent repair

Exterior body rust repair - Hood rust, under the hinges

Exterior body rust repair - Hood rust removal

Exterior body rust repair - Welding in metal

Exterior body rust repair - Primer and reassembly

Front brake line replacement - part 1

Front brake line replacement - part 2

Clutch rod replacement

Pressure bleeder build

Valve cover installation again

Starter replacement

Steering shaft, steering box, and power steering host replacement - prep work

Steering shaft, steering box, and power steering hose replacement - part 1 - Removal

Steering shaft, steering box, and power steering hose replacement - part 2 - Install

Steering shaft, steering box, and power steering hose replacement - How-to - specific list of steps

Fender flare polishing

Exterior repaint - disassembly

Exterior repaint - old paint removal

Exterior repaint - old paint removal (more)

Exterior repaint - old paint removal (even more)

Exterior repaint - old paint removal (more again)

Exterior repaint - Painting 1

Exterior repaint - body work

Exterior repaint - painting 2

T19 install - New (to me) bell housing cleanup

T19 install - Picking up the new (to me) trans

T19 install - related parts 1

T19 install - related parts 2

T19 install - related parts 3

T19 install - related parts 4

T19 install - related parts 5

T19 install - T5 removal

T19 install - Adjusting the Novak adjustable throw out bearing

T19 install - Install part 1

T19 install - Install part 2

T19 install - Flywheel bolts, clutch bolts, and bending the T19 shift stick

T19 install - Install part 3

T19 install - Twin stick boot and transmission tunnel cover installed

Passenger seat bracket disassembly and rebuilding (a series of 8 videos)

(I will work to maintain this list from time to time, however it is often out of date.)
 
#679 ·
Here is an index to the projects that are documented in this thread. The goal here is to enable you (and me) to find something quickly.

Thanks A million Ken for your information index on your CJ7 restoration. :)

You have great pictures to follow and we all enjoy your explanations.:thumbsup:

Those hubs are looking good.:highfive:
 
#670 ·
What am I thinking?

I saw an all tan JK yesterday that immediately caught my attention. Usually the JKs don't do anything for me (I really don't like the fender flares, or the grilles, or the abundance of plastic) but this one really did it for me...

..but $34,000 MSRP? Ouch. I could have a hell of a fleet of CJs for that price.
 

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#671 ·
Thinking ahead to the next work I'll be doing on the CJ, here's what I have lined up:

1) I have to pull off the front wheels and install the paper seals between the locking hubs and the wheel hub. While I'm up there, I need to bend the hub nut washers. Also, I think I will repaint the hub locking mechanisms because those look pretty bad. I had avoided doing this the first time around because I wasn't prepared for it, but I have a good plan in place now and I think it'll be a good cosmetic improvement and will give some protection to the aluminum housings. So that's a good half day of work that won't cost much money; Just time.

2) I finally rembered to buy the 99 cent anti-rattle / equalizer / strut spring for my driver's side drum brake assembly. So I have to pull that wheel off again and practice my drum brake skills again.

and, oh....

3) In spite of the success I've had with the Carter BBD, I ordered a Motorcraft 2150 and Moroso 8.5" air filter housing. My hope is to squeeze better MPG out of the 258. I also have serious doubts about my carburetor after the last go around with the base mix screws after learning from Mike Romain that the result of my adjustments was totally opposite from what is expected. If I was alone on a desert island with no other option, I could live with the BBD, but I keep thinking "Why not try it?" I feel like a kid on Christmas eve.
 
#672 ·
Thinking ahead to the next work I'll be doing on the CJ, here's what I have lined up:

1) I have to pull off the front wheels and install the paper seals between the locking hubs and the wheel hub. While I'm up there, I need to bend the hub nut washers. Also, I think I will repaint the hub locking mechanisms because those look pretty bad. I had avoided doing this the first time around because I wasn't prepared for it, but I have a good plan in place now and I think it'll be a good cosmetic improvement and will give some protection to the aluminum housings. So that's a good half day of work that won't cost much money; Just time.

2) I finally rembered to buy the 99 cent anti-rattle / equalizer / strut spring for my driver's side drum brake assembly. So I have to pull that wheel off again and practice my drum brake skills again.

and, oh....

3) In spite of the success I've had with the Carter BBD, I ordered a Motorcraft 2150 and Moroso 8.5" air filter housing. My hope is to squeeze better MPG out of the 258. I also have serious doubts about my carburetor after the last go around with the base mix screws after learning from Mike Romain that the result of my adjustments was totally opposite from what is expected. If I was alone on a desert island with no other option, I could live with the BBD, but I keep thinking "Why not try it?" I feel like a kid on Christmas eve.
Hey Ken... you've made the jump to hyperspace! Congrats on the MC carb. You will like it. Does it come with all the gaskets, adapter plate, etc? If no adapter plate, Mr. Gasket 1937 will do it for you. Take special care to notice the carb base and and gasket array(order) so as not to leave an air gap. I had to mod the cable mount... let me know if you want pics. :thumbsup:
 
#675 ·
Locking hub restore, part 1

Inspired by MoC's repaint of his locking hubs, I decided to do mine.

I know nothing about the make of my locking hubs. They don't have brand name stamped into them, but there is a number on the inside of one of the housings. They're probably original AMC parts. Perhaps someone can fill in the blank.

when I did my disc brakes, it was clear the locking hubs were in bad shape, at least cosmetically, and I've been wanting to clean them up and get them looking good.

Here's a shot of one of the hubs inside the open chome hub 'cap' that I got when I got new wheels:



Here's a better photo of the thing with the wheel and hubcap off:



You can see the weathered and pitted aluminum housing:



The center twist mechanism is all plastic, with a metal screw in the center:



Here's the inside. The insides were clean with some grease. I didn't see any grime, dirt, mud, etc.



I pulled both hubs. One had about 90% of its paint intact, and the other one had only about 10% intact. The one with most of its paint missing was noticeable more weathered on the aluminum surface. This is the one with most of its paint:



When you remove the center screw on these, the whole mechanism will pop apart due to the large spring inside. Be careful. Here are the parts after disassembly:



Inside:



This is the face of the housing with the plastic twist knob removed. It's gritty:



Plastic knob:



Somehere, either in the FSM or Chilton's, I read not to disassemble the locking hubs unless you knew what you were doing (my words, not theirs). The whole locking hub idea is pretty simple: You twist the front and this turns a threaded mechanism that pushes or pulls a piece forward or backward. The key concept seems to be that you need to makes sure you're getting enough push or pull. So, after the first one flew apart on me after I removed the front screw, I measured the in/out distances on the second one so I could make sure it was the same after re-assembly:



Here's the other hub with most of the paint missing:



Now, on to the real run. Here's our paint stripper. I have used this before and it is nasty stuff. It will tear you up. Here's the old metal paint can I use for stuff like this:



Lots of safety gear needed here. Ideally I would have had a face shield...



I painted the stripper on which was tough because it has the consistency of thick, thick mucus. Here, the hub housings are sitting caradboard with the stripper applied...



I picked up the following rattlecans:

- Aluminum primer (flat white in color)
- 'hammered metal' which is a very dark chocolate/dark gray color. I'm not sure exactly what color it's supposed to be.
- red, designed for use on plastic
- white, which I didn't end up needing and I will return



Here are the hubs after stripping and cleaning. The hub with white on the surface is the one that didn't have much paint. You're seeing lots of oxidation on the surface, which shows that the paint really would protect the metal.



Continued in part 2...
 
#682 ·
I believe you are right! I found this and they look identical except for the name plate:

http://www.smsoffroad.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WAR-28751



...EDIT: I saw somewhere a couple years ago where a guy did a similar touch up on his lockouts and took a very find paintbrush and painted in the "2" and "4" in white as well. Looked really good on his rig!
That's my goal here: to get the numbers filled with white. We'll see...

Thanks A million Ken for your information index on your CJ7 restoration. :)

You have great pictures to follow and we all enjoy your explanations.:thumbsup:

Those hubs are looking good.:highfive:
Many thanks!
 
#677 ·
Locking hub restore, part 2

Locking hub restore, part 2

Finally, they're looking better. Here we see them after wire wheeling with a brass brush wheel. I wanted to get them clean but with metal it can't be too smooth or else the paint won't stick.

After wire wheeling, I rubbed them down with paint thinner and then with acetone to make sure the metal surface was totally clean.



The face cleanened up well:



I rolled up paper towel and put that in the bolt holes. I figured it was better to keep the paint out of there, as some of the holes had some slight threads cut into them from the bolts, probably just from having been there for so long. I didn't want to risk making too tight of a fit.



Plastic knobs:



I scrubbed the bolts with orange hand cleaner, rinsed them, and used rust converter on the heads. Here they are drying and will later be painted..



Here are the hubs after being hit with aluminum primer, which is white:



Here are the knobs after 1 coat of red, which was pretty uneven after settling on the surface. I sprayed a second coat that evened things out. Don't worry; some of this red will be covered up with another color later. This is a work in progress.

To be honest I wanted to use blue here, but I couldn't find a rattlecan blue that wasn't too dark that was safe for plastic.



Here are the hubs after 2 coats of 'hammered metal' Rustolieum:







Here's a parting shot of the workbench:



Right now, everything is still curing/drying in the garage. I will resume work tonight.

While I don't want to end up with a rainbow-colored Jeep, I do think that a few colors used in small amounts in some places can give the thing a newer appearance. That's why I'm going with the red in the center. It's similar to shock absorber boots: You see a bit of color under there and it suggests that you're seeing some new parts. I wouldn't go so far as to paint the frame yellow like that $49,000 CJ on Ebay, or paint my brake drums red like the '91 Chevy Caprice with 22" wheels I saw on the way to work today.
 
#681 ·
...or paint my brake drums red like the '91 Chevy Caprice with 22" wheels I saw on the way to work today.
actually, they are 26's, and I'm still a little hurt that you didn't wave back at me :(



:laugh:

...Maybe I can get a used one in a few years, because I'm not the kind of person to drop $35K on any vehicle, new or used...
and not to get too much further off topic,but I'm right there with you (only in Cosmos Blue), ala this



I figure I'll start looking at the 2011's in about three years or so;)

Hoss
 
#678 ·
Been watching your thread silently for a while now .

I dont know who made them but they are the OEM version lockouts. I still have the same ones on mine and they are in similar condition. Looking forward to the cleanup! Great work on everything so far!

EDIT: I saw somewhere a couple years ago where a guy did a similar touch up on his lockouts and took a very find paintbrush and painted in the "2" and "4" in white as well. Looked really good on his rig!
 
#680 ·
A sign

It's a sign: I was about to back out of a parking space at the post office yesteday morning. As I looked back over my shoulder, I saw a 4 door all tan JK stopped at the stop sign, about to turn. As soon as I looked at the driver, he stuck his arm out and made a big, enthusiastic Jeep wave. I waved back with vigor.

The JK was all stock, all tan, hardtop, with factory silver/gray alloy wheels (17"?) on good looking tires; not pizza cutters, but not bloated either.

I have never gotten such a wave from a JK owner, ever. Usually the JK drivers around here are too distracted with their navigation systems, DVD players, and cup holders to notice a CJ. :thumbsup:

I usually don't are for JKs but, man, these all tan ones are nice. I think I'm hooked right now. Maybe I can get a used one in a few years, because I'm not the kind of person to drop $35K on any vehicle, new or used. I'll stick to the $5000 CJs and $8500 used Jettas :) (Okay, so the wife's F150 was more than that but we needed a good truck)
 

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#684 ·
#685 ·
Just FYI:

My locking hub housings have a number stamped inside that you will see here:



It turns out that is number is the United States patent number for "CAM AND SPRING OPERATED POSITIVE CLUTCH" for "Warm-Belleview Inc. (Portland, OR)" in 1973. Here's the whole thing:

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/3753479.html

 
#689 ·
Locking hub repaint, part 3

I am not 100% happy with how the hubs turned out. Here we see them before I installed the center screws. Note that the red looks orange in this photo.



Before installing hubs, I went back and bent the washers over the spindle nuts per the reccomended procedure. I used a small prybar, as a large screwdriver wasn't strong enough.



Here are the parts and tools...



Here's the hub on the Jeep:



Here's the hub with the wheel installed, sans chome hubcap:



I think the red is a bit too much. I guess i'll get used to it. Also, the Rustolieum Hammered finish rattlecan worked fine, but by the time it's on the Jeep you can't really see the finish. I could have just as well used a semi-gloss or gloss black.

At this time, as you can see, I haven't gone in to paint the numbers white. As suggested, I will wait for the paint to cure a few more days before attempting that.

Also, the paper gaskets didn't seem like they'd fit. They were maybe 1/32" too small on the inside hole, plus they would have stuck out beyond the edges of the locking hub which didn't seem right. Maybe I could have trimmed them. So I left them off for now. Maybe time to break out the file folder.

I keep a Chilton's manual in the garage (I have 2. One came with the Jeep, and I bought one before I ever bought a Jeep), and it didn't seem to make reference to that gasket in the diagrams.

When i was reassembling the hubs, one popped open sending a piece across the garage. Luckily my son found it and after 3 tries I was able to the thing back together. It gave me a good understanding of the innerworkings of the thing. Not too complicated; basically just a plastic screw with a nut on it. The screw turns and pulls or pushes the nut. Why it's all plastic, I don't know other than it's a cost saving measure.
 
#692 ·
Also, the paper gaskets didn't seem like they'd fit. They were maybe 1/32" too small on the inside hole, plus they would have stuck out beyond the edges of the locking hub which didn't seem right. Maybe I could have trimmed them. So I left them off for now. Maybe time to break out the file folder.
I got my cork gaskets through morris4x4. They look like yours. I put them on by putting the 5 bolts through the locking hub housings, then slid the gasket over the screws. Then started threading each bolt by hand into the hub working my way around until they were snug up against the hub. Torqued to spec and used a razor knife to trim the excess. You can see a pic of the end result on my threadhttp://http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/turtle71s-83-cj7-project-1136836/ That will give you an idea of what it will look like with a gasket.

By the way, I used your front brakes write up in combination with another one on wheel bearings to get it done. Thanks for that, it was very helpful and informative.
 
#696 ·
Thanks so much for this thread!! I have spent the better part of the morning reading through all the pages. I have learned quite a lot but now I am scared for what I have in store for when I pick up my new to me CJ, haha.
 
#697 ·
Ken

nice job, but I agree they don't look quite right.

the biggest difference to me is that they'll look completely different than the back, and that they never looked like that stock.

personally, I think you'd be better off painting the plastic black, and then painting (or apply a scrap of quality graphic decal) to the center strip, like the old warn sticker was. I think it would look more 'correct'

then again, it's your Jeep, and you've managed to do pretty well all on your own thus far ;)

:wave:

Hoss
 
#698 ·
...completely different than the back, and that they never looked like that stock..personally, I think you'd be beetr off paint thing plastic black, and then painting (or apply a scrap of quality graphic decal) to the center strip, like the old warn sticker was. I think it would look more 'correct'..
Yeah, the red is too reminiscent of brightly-colored brake drums. It has to go.

I emailed Warn and they do not offer replacement parts for this hub other than a service kit that has a small assortement of things. They don't offer the logo plate or anything like that.

I need to paint the wheel hubs anyhow, so probably what I should do is pull the wheels again, nix the red, paint the wheel hubs while everything is apart again, and stick with the conservative colors :)
 
#699 ·
Ken,

I bght the replacement label sticker that goes in the center of the lockout from Collins Bros. Jeeps. I have included their website link because of your recent fondness for tan JK's...the one they are featuring is tbe best looking one I have seen thus far...

http://www.collinsbrosjeep.com/

I looked for the stickers and didn't see them offered on the site so I would call them. IIRC, I paid a $3-4 for a set of them.

Mike

edit: just spoke to Collins Bros. They sell them for $4.95 ea. Seems pricey, but the added detail really is nice. "Jeep 4x" is what they say...
 
#701 ·
I had a bit of time before I had to install the brother-in-law's new over-the-stove microwave/vent unit this morning, so I knocked this out. I suspect they'd never been polished before...







I also got these back on track:



I broke down and ordered the decals for the hubs. Don't ask what the price was.
 
#709 ·
Those hubs reminded me as the first things I powder coated in my Toaster Oven. Came out great and there was no turning back to rattle can paint after that.

When you get your decals for the hubs, are you going to paint the 2 & 4 white on the outer part of the hub? :) I never did but this post just reminded me to do it someday.
 
#710 ·
When you get your decals for the hubs, are you going to paint the 2 & 4 white on the outer part of the hub? :)
They're painted already. I sprayed some white rattlecan in an old, clean peanut butter jar and then painted the hub letters with a fine brush. I used a paper towel with paint thinner to wipe off the excess white. The process wasn't 100% perfect but I'm very happy with the results.

 
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