Ken's 1985 CJ7 refurbishment thread - Page 10 - JeepForum.com
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post #136 of 2876 Old 07-07-2010, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
Ken4444
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Originally Posted by nichboy View Post
Ken how did that oil change with (shell rotella t 15w40) work out for you?
I heard you should change again after 1000 miles because of all the junk that oil breaks loose. Just courious
So far so good. At the rate I'm going it'll be a while before I put 1000 miles on it. The oil I removed from the T5 was really clean, so that's good although I can't say what the oil usually looks like from an old manual transmission. This trans was rebuilt a few years ago so I'm hoping it'll be good for another decade or more.


"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #137 of 2876 Old 07-07-2010, 06:32 PM
Dborns
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Hey Ken. Your CJ is looking good. I understand from what you've posted that you are going to try and stay with the Carter, but don't give up on the MC2100 idea. From what you've researched, it looks pretty expensive to go that route, but I didn't have those issues. I picked up one from a friend for $25. It hadn't been used in a few years and needed some cleaning up. I picked up an assortment of springs, an adapter plate and some carb cleaner, and after a small amount of cleaning, it fired right up. I did do some adjusting of the jets, but its run smooth with just a little bit of cleaning. I probably have $40 in the whole thing, not counting the rebuild kit I bought, but didn't need.
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post #138 of 2876 Old 07-07-2010, 06:50 PM
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I thought you said you put the Rotella in the engine.
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post #139 of 2876 Old 07-07-2010, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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I thought you said you put the Rotella in the engine.
Ah yes, my mistake. That's what I get for reading JF at work

Yeah, Rotalla in the engine!

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #140 of 2876 Old 07-08-2010, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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I was just getting the BBD dialied in right with Mike's instructions so that it didn't hesitate and stall around 650 RPM when I started to notice coolant leaking from the upper radiator hose. No big deal I thought. I'll just tighten the clamp when I'm done. It's a new hose, no problems.

So I'm almost done wih the BBD and I feel water on my face. I look over and the bypass hose (runs from the thermostat housing to the intake manifold) is spewing water onto the upper radiator hose. Da*n!

Water is pooling on the garage floor so I quickly turn off the engine.

The bypass hose seems to have developed a hole right where it connects to the thermostat housing. This isn't surprising because this was the most severe bend in the hose. I let things cool down and drove alternate vehicle to O'Riley's to get a part. At this point I was regretting not having learned about the part earlier. I figured i would ask for a molded hose but settle for a heater hose if needed. The failed part was marked 5/8" heater hose.

I ended up walking out with a length of 5/8" heater hose. This of course fit perfectly on the manifold side but not so much at the other end. Dang. Now I was starting to learn why the original part failed: the PO used heater hose on a fitting that was too large, and part where it failed was right where the diameter was stretched.

5 minutes on JF revealed the answer: The correct part is generally not available, plus the hose is 5/8" at one end and 7/8" at the other. Greaaaat. More 1970/80's crap design. So much for using standard, low-cost, off-the-shelf parts. This was starting to be as bad as my VW Jetta.

I found this thread via Google:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/by...49/index2.html

So I will hit Napa tomorrow at lunch (and possibly a few other places) and see what they can offer me. I either go with the hose that fits the Ford Escort, or try Napa #7344, or kludge together something.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #141 of 2876 Old 07-08-2010, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Charcoal cannister refurb

A few days ago when I was replacing vac and vent/vapor lines, I went ahead and pulled the charcoal cannister. I mostly wanted to see if it had any replaceable or serviceable parts. Not really. The whole cannister is sealed. The one knob on the top is clearly marked "do not remove". The bottom of the cannister has a plastic grid which is covered by a thin layer of fiberglass, similar to fiberglass insulation.

There is one long screw in the clamp that holds the thing in place. You basically have to unscrew this thing all the way before the clamp opens wide enough to get the cannister out. I went ahead and pulled the screw and oiled it before reinstalling it. I did not remove the clamp itself.

I also found some rust on the sheetmetal under the cannister and put some rust converter on it after wire brushing and vacuuming it.

To clean the fiberglass filter, I pulled off the top layer and gently brushed the remainder with a dry brush. It's fairly delicate so I didn't get it super clean.















Yes, to get to the cannister I had to pull the window washer fluid bottle and pump. I'll post that next. I was excited to see that a new bottle and pump will cost me about $60, so I'm glad mine cleaned up well and work.

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post #142 of 2876 Old 07-08-2010, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Window washer fluid bottle refurb

I had to pull this to get to the charcoal cannister, so I decided to clean it.

Cleaning the outside was easy. The inside was tricky. After disassembling the thing (which basically amounts to removing the pump), I put about a cup of rock salt and some water in the tank and shook it around for about 10 minutes. That did OK so I dumped that and repeated. That got 90% of the black crud from inside the tank.













To reattach the pump to the tank you have to install a nut inside the tank. Luckily you can do this by reaching a wrench into the fill hole on the top of the tank. Here's the rough procedure:

1) Drop the plastic washer into the tank and giggle the tank around until the washer sits over the small hole where the pump will go. This is the most difficult part of the procedure.

2) Line the washer up so it's exactly over the hole. Use a screwdriver to move it around if needed. If you had forceps or long pliers, you could use those to position the washer instead.

3) Carefully put the threaded part of the pump into the hole, being careful not to disturb the washer.

4) Hold tank sideways, being careful not to let the washer drop off the pump.

5) Using a large/deep socket (1", I think) on a long extension, manuever the plastic nut/filter piece into the tank and screw it onto the pump assembly.

6) Tighten to whatever torque Mike Romain specifies

I took me about 5 tries to get it back together.

I tested the pump motor on a 12v power source and it seemed to hum along OK. I can't really see using windshield washer in the CJ, so won't be refilling the thing any time soon.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #143 of 2876 Old 07-08-2010, 07:58 PM
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These items give me good insight on things that I will have to face. Thanks for taking the time to post this up... hose and canister. AND washer bottle!!

Kerrdog
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #144 of 2876 Old 07-08-2010, 08:22 PM
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Ken, who did you find that sold the fuel cannister. I haven't had any luck finding one. Thanks for all your posts and the detail.
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post #145 of 2876 Old 07-08-2010, 08:24 PM
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What did you use to clean the outside of the washer bottle? Looks great.

Also, why not just replace the filter on the bottom of the canister? I think they're like $3.

Mike

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post #146 of 2876 Old 07-08-2010, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Ken, who did you find that sold the fuel cannister. I haven't had any luck finding one. Thanks for all your posts and the detail.
A JF member emailed me to say that the charcoal cannister can be found at Autozone. CF4500 is the Autozone part number but I haven't looked it up.

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post #147 of 2876 Old 07-08-2010, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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What did you use to clean the outside of the washer bottle? Looks great.
I used 409 cleaner, a scrub brush, and a sponge.

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Also, why not just replace the filter on the bottom of the canister? I think they're like $3.
For some reason I assumed I wouldn't be able to buy this part, but it's good to know it may be available.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #148 of 2876 Old 07-08-2010, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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A couple more photos

Here's of the rebuild BBD just before going onto the engine:



Here's a look into the intake manifold. I was surprised to see those pins in there:


"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #149 of 2876 Old 07-08-2010, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
For some reason I assumed I wouldn't be able to buy this part, but it's good to know it may be available.
I need to do that to my washer bottle. Your Jeep is looking great.

As far as the canster filter, let me google that for you. It's a $1.40 at Rock Auto but I'm sure you can get them at Napa.

Mike

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post #150 of 2876 Old 07-08-2010, 09:25 PM
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Here's of the rebuild BBD just before going onto the engine:

DAD-GONE, Son! You are going to have to think about expanding your line of work! That looks totally-freakin'-good! Ken4444, Ebay seller of Carter BBD, expert technical advice

Kerrdog
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