keep kicking pads after nissan disk conversion - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 09-15-2012, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
hopefulcj76
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keep kicking pads after nissan disk conversion

I did the nissan rear disk conversion on my AMC 20 about 6 months ago. At the time of install I noticed that the brake pads are barely sitting within the calipers. The brakes worked so I ASSumed that this would be ok. I kicked a pad about 2 weeks after the install and went in and re-did some washers/spacers and such. Now, about 6 months later I was driving home after getting a safety inspection (didn't get inspected, "the computer was down" go figure) and I went to brake at a red light and had no brakes. I had to turn onto the median to avoid hitting a car, luckily I pumped the brakes and was able to get back some pressure. I checked for leaks at the MC and brakes and saw nothing, while doing the walk around I noticed a brake pad laying in the street. My right rear outboard pad was missing. How do I fix this?

The pad "tabs" are sitting in the caliper by a little less than an 1/8," initial thinking is to bend the tabs back so they sit deeper in the caliper. Or...find and buy a thicker disk so the pads make contact sooner and sit deeper in the caliper. The geo tracker front disk rotors that I have installed are about 7/16" thick. I don't think this matters but I only installed the thin metal brake clips, what the brake pad tabs sit in, on the front part of the caliper, not the the rear.

Yes, I have posted about this before, and didn't really get any beneficial responses. All the parts should be correct, according to the write-ups install seems correct, its just that the pads are making little contact with the calipers and wiggle out or are squeezed out when I brake.

Any suggestions, remarks, comments are greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Jacob.


Last edited by hopefulcj76; 09-15-2012 at 05:28 PM. Reason: more info
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post #2 of 14 Old 09-15-2012, 07:55 PM
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If you don't get an answer here try Pirate4x4.
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post #3 of 14 Old 09-15-2012, 08:08 PM
CSP
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I'm going to assume that "kicking" means you're losing the pads.

Sounds like you might need a low psi residual pressure valve to keep the pads in slight contact with the rotor. The caliper shouldn't be allowing the pads to move away from the rotor.
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post #4 of 14 Old 09-15-2012, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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i found some Geo rotors for a 4 door that are vented, they are thicker than my current rotors so I am going to try them. I found them for pretty cheap off of rockauto, although the shipping was a bit high. When I get in the jeep in the morning for it's first drive, I notice that the pads are either stuck to the rotor or have that residual low pressure, this wears out after a block or so and they don't rub at all. Is this normal? I really think that they are getting pushed out when I brake, they are held in the caliper by maybe 1.5 mm. I'll do some tweaking once I get the new rotors in.

Thanks for the responses guys.
Jacob
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post #5 of 14 Old 09-16-2012, 07:31 AM
rsegriggy
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I had the same issue. Lost a pad completely. I've been looking at going to the 4-door rotor. I measured one at the parts store, and it looks like it will fit right in. I just haven't done it yet. Let us know if this works.
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post #6 of 14 Old 09-21-2012, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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The 4 door forks have fixed my problems. Here is the part # BENDIX PRT1732. They are the sane diameter but are about a 1/2" thick. My pads are firmly seated within the caliper. Only problems I have noticed is that my left rear rotor is scraping or rubbing. It does it louder and more often if I turn to the left. My old rotors were also filled with cracks, kind of scary.
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post #7 of 14 Old 02-26-2013, 08:16 PM
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An update for me:
I replaced the 2 door (thin) with 4 door rotors. Worked great, but I had some rubbing/scrapping. I ended up spacing my calipers out with a .090 thick hardened washer under each bolt. Ever since, I've had a firmer pedal and no issues with lost brakes. Hopefully someone else will also benefit from this info.
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post #8 of 14 Old 02-27-2013, 07:34 AM
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Good stuff!! Yeah, I wouldn't want a rotor/pad/caliper combo that allows enough room for a pad to fall out. The only way the pads should be able to be removed, is with the caliper pulled off the rotor.

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post #9 of 14 Old 02-27-2013, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsegriggy View Post
An update for me:
I replaced the 2 door (thin) with 4 door rotors. Worked great, but I had some rubbing/scrapping. I ended up spacing my calipers out with a .090 thick hardened washer under each bolt. Ever since, I've had a firmer pedal and no issues with lost brakes. Hopefully someone else will also benefit from this info.
Thanks for the update. I have my cailper, pads, lines, mounting brackets. Just need the rotors. I want to remove the drum brake backing and replace with a spacer just have to get one made. BESRK cough cough..

By the way, did you chage your MC or Proportioning valve.
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post #10 of 14 Old 02-27-2013, 04:15 PM
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Turns out there is a bit of a difference between early 80's 300Z calipers and other year Nissans. They all seem to use the same brake pad and look similar, but the ones I had were a little too wide to use the thin rotors for very long. Luckily it happened off-road, but it could have been very bad...

I ended up using the 69 Corvette MC, YJ pedal bracket, and YJ proportioning valve. I also replaced every brake line on the jeep. I have a Wagoneer D44 up front, and the factory Wagoneer MC has the same bore as the Corvette MC. If you want thin rotors, I have 2 set of them. One is my old set I was running before I swapped for thicker. The other had the stud holes enlarged to 9/16" to fit over my old wheel studs. They ended up being too short, so I replaced the studs on my axle with some from a Ford sedan. (I used the Dorman book. I looked up what a Scout knurl diameter is stock, then found one with the same knurl, just a longer thread.) I see you're in NJ. I'm just outside of Philadelphia.

Are you using an AMC20 or a Dana 44 in the rear?
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post #11 of 14 Old 02-27-2013, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsegriggy View Post
Turns out there is a bit of a difference between early 80's 300Z calipers and other year Nissans. They all seem to use the same brake pad and look similar, but the ones I had were a little too wide to use the thin rotors for very long. Luckily it happened off-road, but it could have been very bad...

I ended up using the 69 Corvette MC, YJ pedal bracket, and YJ proportioning valve. I also replaced every brake line on the jeep. I have a Wagoneer D44 up front, and the factory Wagoneer MC has the same bore as the Corvette MC. If you want thin rotors, I have 2 set of them. One is my old set I was running before I swapped for thicker. The other had the stud holes enlarged to 9/16" to fit over my old wheel studs. They ended up being too short, so I replaced the studs on my axle with some from a Ford sedan. (I used the Dorman book. I looked up what a Scout knurl diameter is stock, then found one with the same knurl, just a longer thread.) I see you're in NJ. I'm just outside of Philadelphia.

Are you using an AMC20 or a Dana 44 in the rear?

I have an AMC20 rear. I picked up a set 99 Maxima calipers from the JY. They were new. I'm in North Jersey about 30 min from the Poconos. Thanks for the rotor offer, I'm not sure if the thin rotors will work, But if the price is right I may try.
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post #12 of 14 Old 03-01-2013, 04:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterdowg View Post
I have an AMC20 rear. I picked up a set 99 Maxima calipers from the JY. They were new. I'm in North Jersey about 30 min from the Poconos. Thanks for the rotor offer, I'm not sure if the thin rotors will work, But if the price is right I may try.
Looks like 99 Maxima calipers should work with the thin rotors.

99 Maxima rear rotor: (Thickness .36 new, .32 discard)
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...511_0129753982

94 Geo Tracker solid non-vented front rotor: (Thickness .39 new, .32 discard)
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...008_0273036774


I can't find the specs for a thick, vented 4 door Geo Tracker rotor, but I think it was close to 1/2" thick. You're welcome to stop by and check if I don't get out to the garage soon. I fear the cost of shipping a pair of used rotors will negate any savings for you over just going to closes auto parts store and asking.
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post #13 of 14 Old 03-01-2013, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsegriggy View Post

Looks like 99 Maxima calipers should work with the thin rotors.

99 Maxima rear rotor: (Thickness .36 new, .32 discard)
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...511_0129753982

94 Geo Tracker solid non-vented front rotor: (Thickness .39 new, .32 discard)
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...008_0273036774

I can't find the specs for a thick, vented 4 door Geo Tracker rotor, but I think it was close to 1/2" thick. You're welcome to stop by and check if I don't get out to the garage soon. I fear the cost of shipping a pair of used rotors will negate any savings for you over just going to closes auto parts store and asking.
Thanks for the info and the offer. I may be out by Philly in May but also planing to attend the MD Juan/ Quadratec BBQ in May was well. If you attend that perhaps we can meet up. I agree the shipping cost and even my gas/time to Philly would not make sense. So if I'm out thar way I will reach out to you.
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post #14 of 14 Old 03-01-2013, 07:55 AM
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I did find this.
The thinner ones are 10mm =.393 in = a little over 3/8"
The thicker ones are 17mm =.669 in = around 11/16"
So the the difference is .03125mm = 5/16" thicker.
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