Kc lights grrrrr. - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 16 Old 07-21-2013, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
way2fastmike
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Kc lights grrrrr.

Dang it, spent all day putting together kc light that i had customized , only to find out i had wired them up wrong. Didnt know i needed relays in-line. Ol well, take them back apart and try and rewire them. Its hard fishing wire in that light bar.....lol

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post #2 of 16 Old 07-21-2013, 05:25 PM
82JeepCJ7
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Put the relays down close to the battery. You don't want them up by the lights.

Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

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post #3 of 16 Old 07-21-2013, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
way2fastmike
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Gotcha, each kc light has a hot and ground wire, i know where the hot goes but the black ground wire, are they run back to the relays or can they be grounded on the bar that is grounded to the windshield? Im not sure.
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post #4 of 16 Old 07-21-2013, 05:59 PM
sjones26573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by way2fastmike View Post
Gotcha, each kc light has a hot and ground wire, i know where the hot goes but the black ground wire, are they run back to the relays or can they be grounded on the bar that is grounded to the windshield? Im not sure.
Wherever you want. No meed to go to relays.

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post #5 of 16 Old 07-21-2013, 06:26 PM
row684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by way2fastmike
Gotcha, each kc light has a hot and ground wire, i know where the hot goes but the black ground wire, are they run back to the relays or can they be grounded on the bar that is grounded to the windshield? Im not sure.
Like 82 said put the relays near the battery on the hot side. They should ground just fine to the rollbar. The idea is to send the juice the most direct route to the lights, not through the switch which might not be able to handle the juice needed.
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post #6 of 16 Old 07-21-2013, 06:35 PM
GTNMUDY
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The only reason you need a relay is to handle the high current that the lights will draw. If you dont want to use a relay you will need a very good switch. You can figure it out by the following:

If each light is a 55w bulb then your current draw is 4.6A (we will round it up to 5A).

Now multiply 5A times the number of lights you have. So 4 light will be 20A. Most automotive switches will not handle that much current so then you use a 20A relay.

I run 4, 100W lights on my CJ and use 2 relays to power them. Make sure the wire you are using to power the lights is large enough to handle the current and put a fuse in line with the lights. I have 2 lights connected via relay to my high beam switch and the other 2 on another relay switch on the dash.

I found that with my high beams and the 4 lights on my alternator would not handle the current draw, so I rebuilt it with a 100A upgrade kit.

Good luck and go with a relay and fuse.

Larry
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post #7 of 16 Old 07-21-2013, 07:03 PM
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Relays for DCV is a damn good idea to use because it keeps you from running full amp load(12VDC/20+amps)through your switch.
Most of your toggle switches are rated for ACV only, and then at 110-120VAC, not DCV. The DCV arc when the circuit is opened(power turned off)is like an arc welder, and kills the contacts PDQ, or melts the cheap rocker types real fast.
Go with good relays(Bosch). Get ones that are rated 25% above your load.
Also, use a circuit breaker(at the battery)to protect the system.
LG
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post #8 of 16 Old 07-21-2013, 08:33 PM
82JeepCJ7
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I use 40amp relays on most of my stuff, and on some real high amp pull items, 70amp relays. You don't want the relay to be the weak link in the circuit. You want the fuse to be the weak link.

Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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post #9 of 16 Old 07-22-2013, 03:57 AM
John Strenk
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The only thing about running the ground to the light bar is that it will eventually have to run through the windshield hinges. This is not a very good way to run some 20 amps of current. Also it seems to accelerate corrosion in the hinges rusting them together and you will have problems if you ever need to fold your windshield down in the future.

Run the ground all the way to the battery.
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post #10 of 16 Old 07-26-2013, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
way2fastmike
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ok next question, what gauge wire?
thanks
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post #11 of 16 Old 07-26-2013, 03:49 PM
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10ga, stranded.
Do NOT gnd via light bar. Have a dedicated gound.
LG
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post #12 of 16 Old 07-26-2013, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
way2fastmike
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the lights I have are kc2627 lights from what I can find out is they are 150 watts each I have 4qty.
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post #13 of 16 Old 07-26-2013, 05:03 PM
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To calculate amps for your lights, you would divide the wattage (150) by the voltage (12V). This would equal 12.5A. 10 gauge stranded is rated for 15A.

If I were you I would run both ground and positive wires to each light and bring them all to a central location and use relays for 2 sets of lights.

You then could use 1 switch to turn on both relays and the 4 lights.

Larry
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post #14 of 16 Old 07-26-2013, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by GTNMUDY View Post
To calculate amps for your lights, you would divide the wattage (150) by the voltage (12V). This would equal 12.5A. 10 gauge stranded is rated for 15A.

If I were you I would run both ground and positive wires to each light and bring them all to a central location and use relays for 2 sets of lights.

You then could use 1 switch to turn on both relays and the 4 lights.

Larry


10ga. stranded will carry far more that 15A, 12 vdc........
http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/WireCapacityChart.htm
LG
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post #15 of 16 Old 07-27-2013, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
10ga. stranded will carry far more that 15A, 12 vdc........
http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/WireCapacityChart.htm
LG
It could carry 100 Amp in an emergency but with lighting you have to think about voltage drop.

If the whole cable length was about 15 feet then at 15 Amp the voltage drop will be 0.5V, at 100 Amp 3.5V.

I am not familiar with these lights but how sensitive are they to voltage drop???

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