Just a little flatty build - Page 5 - JeepForum.com

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post #61 of 111 Old 09-10-2012, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
98blacksahara
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1951 CJ3A 
 
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Some cage ideas I was trying out:







Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
Well, I've never eaten a turd sandwich, but I wouldn't have a problem recommending not to try it.:thumbsup:

But I'm sure someone out there will post that they regularly eat turd sandwiches with no problems...
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post #62 of 111 Old 09-10-2012, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
98blacksahara
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Double post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
Well, I've never eaten a turd sandwich, but I wouldn't have a problem recommending not to try it.:thumbsup:

But I'm sure someone out there will post that they regularly eat turd sandwiches with no problems...
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post #63 of 111 Old 09-13-2012, 10:12 PM
2girlsAndaGuy
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Sorry to hear about your grandpa, but glad you are back to work. Your project is really entertaining to watch, keep it up.
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post #64 of 111 Old 09-14-2012, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
98blacksahara
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thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
Well, I've never eaten a turd sandwich, but I wouldn't have a problem recommending not to try it.:thumbsup:

But I'm sure someone out there will post that they regularly eat turd sandwiches with no problems...
98blacksahara is offline  
post #65 of 111 Old 09-14-2012, 02:01 PM
Noplainsdrifter
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Very nice project!

I wish I had a lathe to make my drivelines. I have been making mine from Cherokees too. My question is what output shaft yoke from the transfer case did you use to connect your driveline?

Keep up the great work!

It's a Jeep Thing, Chrysler Doesn't Understand!
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post #66 of 111 Old 09-14-2012, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
98blacksahara
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noplainsdrifter View Post
Very nice project!

I wish I had a lathe to make my drivelines. I have been making mine from Cherokees too. My question is what output shaft yoke from the transfer case did you use to connect your driveline?

Keep up the great work!
Got it from Partsmike.com It was around $55 bux I think.

Its not actually my lathe, its a buddy's dads. We have built many many driveshafts on it though!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
Well, I've never eaten a turd sandwich, but I wouldn't have a problem recommending not to try it.:thumbsup:

But I'm sure someone out there will post that they regularly eat turd sandwiches with no problems...
98blacksahara is offline  
post #67 of 111 Old 09-14-2012, 02:40 PM
Noplainsdrifter
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I'm making a DC driveshaft from a early bronco. I think the yoke is a 10 spline if I remember right. It's been a few months since I picked up the parts and I think I have to modify the yoke a bit.

It's a Jeep Thing, Chrysler Doesn't Understand!
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post #68 of 111 Old 09-14-2012, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
98blacksahara
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http://www.partsmike.com/store/store...on=show_detail

This is the one I used. Hope it helps you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
Well, I've never eaten a turd sandwich, but I wouldn't have a problem recommending not to try it.:thumbsup:

But I'm sure someone out there will post that they regularly eat turd sandwiches with no problems...
98blacksahara is offline  
post #69 of 111 Old 09-27-2012, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
98blacksahara
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Finished up the cage. I am pretty happy with it. I can always add more to it later! I still need to add a few more brackets to it for things like fuel pump shut off, battery disco etc. But the main tube work is done. Next is to pop it out and finish weld everything.
Pics:


Skull from ballistic fab I bought years ago. Found it cleaning out my tool box the other day.

Frame tie ins on one side are done. I am not 100% happy with the rear most tie-in, but with the space constraints, its the best I could come up with. I may change it later on, but for now its better than no tie in. Just need to copy them over the the other side
Pics:
1/4 wall DOM for the "stick out"



Rear tie in



Started another project too:
blue tape is over serial number.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
Well, I've never eaten a turd sandwich, but I wouldn't have a problem recommending not to try it.:thumbsup:

But I'm sure someone out there will post that they regularly eat turd sandwiches with no problems...
98blacksahara is offline  
post #70 of 111 Old 10-01-2012, 08:22 PM
2girlsAndaGuy
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Looks great, I like the small touch the skull adds.
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post #71 of 111 Old 10-02-2012, 08:09 AM
my73CJ
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I wish I had the skills you have, everything looks great
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post #72 of 111 Old 10-10-2012, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
98blacksahara
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Got some new sneakers for it today. 33 13.50 15 swamper LTB's




Should go better than the pro craps that came on it.

A set of scout D44's should be here Sunday night. Pics to follow Monday

Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
Well, I've never eaten a turd sandwich, but I wouldn't have a problem recommending not to try it.:thumbsup:

But I'm sure someone out there will post that they regularly eat turd sandwiches with no problems...
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post #73 of 111 Old 10-15-2012, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
98blacksahara
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Well, after much deliberation, and staring at the 3a, then some more measuring, followed by more deliberation, I chopped 7 inches out of the long side.

The D44 was exactly 7 inches wider to the tops of the balljoints than my dana 30. I am very happy with the stance, and do not want to change it more than a very small amount here and there.

the only issue I saw with doing the full 7 inches from the long side, is that the cast spring perch would need to be extended a small amount and the spring centering pin redrilled. I already drilled the pilot hole, and am working on a design for the "extension" piece.



I then got to grinding! Those welds were no joke. But after a bit more grinding, and a big hammer, the inner "C" came right off.


I had to do a bit of shimming to get the axle and the chop saw on level with each other. Then the point of no return!





I lined up the inner C and pounded it back on. Set the caster to 6 degrees with the spring perches at zero (level) I only tacked it so I can confirm the caster angle. I only did one side at a time so I could "copy" All of the other angles other than the caster from side to side to make the camber was good. It ended up within about 1/4 of a degree difference side to side. Close enough for me.



Finished (other than fully welding it)


Will be sending the shafts out to dutchman or someone similar to shorten and respline.

Can someone confirm the 6 degrees caster angle before I have it fully welded. I am going to have a buddy do it, my welder is only rated for 1/4 inch or so.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
Well, I've never eaten a turd sandwich, but I wouldn't have a problem recommending not to try it.:thumbsup:

But I'm sure someone out there will post that they regularly eat turd sandwiches with no problems...
98blacksahara is offline  
post #74 of 111 Old 11-02-2012, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
98blacksahara
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Got some link brackets knocked out today. Made the lowers on the frame end and the uppers on the frame end.

Lowers are 1/4 plate with a 1/8 box plate. I may need to box over it with 1/4 at some point, but I will see how it stands up. The spacers shown in the bracket are the bushing sleeves for the axle end (thanks Meiser!!!!!)



The uppers started out as 2 1/2 boxed, but wasn't quite wide enough, so I sliced it and sectioned it wider. The boxing plates are 1/4, as is the box part.
I plan on bending the "ears" inwards some and boxing them after they are welded to the frame. They are set at 20* each for an angle.





Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
Well, I've never eaten a turd sandwich, but I wouldn't have a problem recommending not to try it.:thumbsup:

But I'm sure someone out there will post that they regularly eat turd sandwiches with no problems...
98blacksahara is offline  
post #75 of 111 Old 11-07-2012, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
98blacksahara
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Spring buckets (modified stock TJ wrangler oem) and lower link brackets on the axle end all burned in



Lower link mounts:




Out with the old:



Looking for suggestions to lower the rear ride height. I tried stock TJ wrangler rear coils, but it sits a bit high, as it doesn't weight the same as a TJ. The rears are 200 lbs per inch, the fronts are 134 lbs per inch.

Anything wrong with lopping off a few coils on a set of tj fronts to set the proper ride height? I already have both sets of springs and they were free, so I have nothing to lose by trying.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
Well, I've never eaten a turd sandwich, but I wouldn't have a problem recommending not to try it.:thumbsup:

But I'm sure someone out there will post that they regularly eat turd sandwiches with no problems...
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