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Unread 05-30-2013, 10:34 AM   #16
orange80cj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwhore View Post
When I did mine I used an "L" bracket from the hardware store to convert the 2100 from a rear pull to a down pull like the stock carb. I drilled out one of the holes in the bracket to fit snugly over the existing linkage ball on the throttle arm. Then I attached a new linkage ball on the end of the bracket and hooked it to the stock linkage. Lastly, I clamped the bracket and linkage together and drilled a new hole through both then bolted them together.

It's kind of hard to explain but if you are still working on it next week I'll snap a pic for you when I get home.
That would be great to get a picture of, I can probably figure it out by your description though I might have to run down to ace or Lowes once I get out of work!

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Unread 05-30-2013, 10:56 AM   #17
jeepwhore
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It's kind of like this......but with an L bracket instead if a T bracket.



image-1412180674.jpg
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Unread 05-30-2013, 03:20 PM   #18
JMcDonaldKnives
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I just ordered a mc2100 and rebuild kit off ebay. Can someone give a quick list with part numbers and/or links for what i need for the swap? I will order the throttle cable for the v8 but need to know what else is required.
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Unread 05-30-2013, 03:34 PM   #19
jeepwhore
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The only other things you'll need are the transdapt or mr gasket carb adapter (part #'s are in a couple of the previous posts) and possibly a 6" Open element air filter depending on if you have power brakes or not.
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'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her.
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Unread 05-30-2013, 03:45 PM   #20
orange80cj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwhore View Post
It's kind of like this......but with an L bracket instead if a T bracket.
Awsome! good thing I just picked up those springs.... I'll be putting everything back together soon the carb is sitting in cleaner Right now, hopefully I will get this done tonight, would you guys say it's better to bolt on the bracket to the throttle arm or weld it?
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Unread 05-30-2013, 03:50 PM   #21
Davis77Cj
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orange80cj7 ,

When you do this can you please post up pics of your set up so that I can use it for future reference
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Unread 05-30-2013, 03:51 PM   #22
jeepwhore
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I'd bolt it. In this case a mechanical connection is probably better. If the weld either fatigues the linkage or the weld breaks you'd possibly be stranded.
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Unread 05-30-2013, 03:56 PM   #23
JMcDonaldKnives
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwhore View Post
The only other things you'll need are the transdapt or mr gasket carb adapter (part #'s are in a couple of the previous posts) and possibly a 6" Open element air filter depending on if you have power brakes or not.
Power brakes clutters up the engine compartment too much lol.

Looks like i get to go shopping some more lol. And its no wonder why my pockets are still empty but my jeep still aint running.
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Unread 05-31-2013, 10:50 AM   #24
orange80cj7
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Well last night was fun, dropped a bolt in the intake..... Haha got it out bolted carb up but the fuel line won't go into the new carb does anyone known where to get an adapter or am I just doing something wrong?
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Unread 05-31-2013, 11:23 AM   #25
JeepingJustin
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Originally Posted by orange80cj7 View Post
Well last night was fun, dropped a bolt in the intake..... Haha got it out bolted carb up but the fuel line won't go into the new carb does anyone known where to get an adapter or am I just doing something wrong?
Are you using a metal line? I used rubber fuel line from the filter to the barbed fitting to the carb. But mine is also a 90 yj.

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Unread 05-31-2013, 11:36 AM   #26
orange80cj7
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Originally Posted by JeepingJustin View Post

Are you using a metal line? I used rubber fuel line from the filter to the barbed fitting to the carb. But mine is also a 90 yj.

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Yes it is a metal line would a plastic one be better?
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Unread 05-31-2013, 01:59 PM   #27
jeepwhore
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It's been a while but does the bbd have a fitting screwed into it that the fuel line screws into? For some reason I recall removing that and screwing it into the 2100....
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The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her.
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Unread 05-31-2013, 02:52 PM   #28
orange80cj7
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Got the fuel line hooked up and gave it a go, started right up but then it started to die out and run awful, and fuel was pouring out of the two stacks on the top of the carb.... Any idea what this could be?
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Unread 05-31-2013, 03:04 PM   #29
jeepwhore
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Fuel was pouring out of what stacks? The bowl vent? I'd say something was re-assembled improperly after the rebuild.....you did rebuild it, right?

My guess would be the float is either set way too high or isn't installed properly and is preventing the needle and seat valve from restricting flow the way it should. So the fuel pump just keeps ramming gas down the engines throat and floods it ("runs awful").

Or the needle valve assembly itself is faulty or installed wrong.

Those are the only two parts that can affect flow to that degree.
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'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her.
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Unread 05-31-2013, 03:20 PM   #30
orange80cj7
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I think it probably is the needle seat the one in there didn't match up right with the once that was in the rebuild kit mine didn't have the gasket the goes between the needle valve
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