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Unread 02-27-2010, 09:30 PM   #121
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Yeah, I was just reading that today. I also found a link on adapting a Ford 205 to a 700R4 but i'm getting tired of adapters. I'm ready to just grab a ford 5.0 and use its firewall forward harness with the stock efi... Really easy- at least that's what people say...

Also, the Ford D60 will make the trackbar mount much easier, too.

When I finally get this mostly sorted out , Jason, I'll need to buy you a beer!!
LOL No beer, just alot of Pics

Ive herd about the 700r to the ford 205, never seen one but like you said at what point do you adapt at, The motor to trans or trans to case.
I like the Idea of Ford motors, ive allways like the 5.0 mustang motor. I had a 351 EFI in my 89 F-350.
I loved it and the NP 435 will bolt right up since they used that model 4-spd till the newer 5spd came out in the early 90's.

Jason.

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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

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Unread 02-28-2010, 11:34 AM   #122
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LOL No beer, just alot of Pics

Ive herd about the 700r to the ford 205, never seen one but like you said at what point do you adapt at, The motor to trans or trans to case.
I like the Idea of Ford motors, ive allways like the 5.0 mustang motor. I had a 351 EFI in my 89 F-350.
I loved it and the NP 435 will bolt right up since they used that model 4-spd till the newer 5spd came out in the early 90's.

Jason.
OK- lots of pic. Also, the Ford D60 is high pinion. Lots going for it there, too.

The axle shaft 35 spline upgrades will probably be necessary right off, too, if I use H1 rubber. The first time I get a wheel jammed in 1st (with np435 and low range) and lay on a wee bit of power it would stand a good chance of snapping somewhere I think. I read that D60 universals are bigger than 44s then somewhere else they were the about same size...

Here is a pic I got off of the web with the caption " Left is a Dana 60 U-Joint the Right is a 10-Bolt U Joint. "



Any idea if this is a correct pic... 60 vs 44 or 10 bolt??
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Unread 02-28-2010, 05:04 PM   #123
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OK I could use some help.

I have a friend with a driveway full of axles- Cool.

First question: He has two 3.73 14 bolt rear ends. The brake drums are different sizes. Deeper and larger diameter. Is there a particular drum size that I should go for?

Second question: He has a Dana 60 kingpin passenger drop front axle. It looks as if it will have a wickedly tight turning radius. He said that the Chevy Dana 60 does have a 6 degree or something tighter turning radius than the Ford D60. This is significant to me. Is anything else to this?



Thanks everyone.
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Unread 02-28-2010, 05:05 PM   #124
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OK- lots of pic. Also, the Ford D60 is high pinion. Lots going for it there, too.

The axle shaft 35 spline upgrades will probably be necessary right off, too, if I use H1 rubber. The first time I get a wheel jammed in 1st (with np435 and low range) and lay on a wee bit of power it would stand a good chance of snapping somewhere I think. I read that D60 universals are bigger than 44s then somewhere else they were the about same size...

Here is a pic I got off of the web with the caption " Left is a Dana 60 U-Joint the Right is a 10-Bolt U Joint. "



Any idea if this is a correct pic... 60 vs 44 or 10 bolt??
OK- just compared in real life the u-joints. Duhh- who ever told me that the 44 and 60 were the same size has to have been on crack.
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Unread 02-28-2010, 06:21 PM   #125
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6 Degree's, never herd of that. I normally pull the stops run a 8" Hydro ram on the 6" High steer hole. The axle will now turn 40* with a little grinding of the inner ears of the shafts. But for now no I would not worry about the turning radius till you need to, unless your setting a Hydro ram on now.

Thats a 1480 U-joint there you have pictured. Now picture a Rockwell 2.5 ton witch is a 1600 series U-joint and a 5 ton is a 1700.

I would grab that axle from your friend probally get it for a decent price.

Jason.
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Unread 02-28-2010, 07:39 PM   #126
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6 Degree's, never herd of that. I normally pull the stops run a 8" Hydro ram on the 6" High steer hole. The axle will now turn 40* with a little grinding of the inner ears of the shafts. But for now no I would not worry about the turning radius till you need to, unless your setting a Hydro ram on now.

Thats a 1480 U-joint there you have pictured. Now picture a Rockwell 2.5 ton witch is a 1600 series U-joint and a 5 ton is a 1700.

I would grab that axle from your friend probally get it for a decent price.

Jason.
The axle at my friend's is a pass drop. boohoo Oh man- hydro steering, that's a good way to ramp up the budget!

My friend also has found a 1989 Ford tow truck with Dana 60 front and unknown rear. We're going to have a look at it. It evidently has ball joints in it.
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Unread 02-28-2010, 07:55 PM   #127
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Well we know its from a 91.5 up, unless someone swapped it in there. But still a very good axle. I would run it If I found one. Yes a king pin is stronger but those balljoints are very big on those axle's. They are made to hold up a one ton truck, so holding up a 1/4 ton jeep is a break, LOL.

Jason.
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Unread 03-01-2010, 03:41 PM   #128
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OK- If I'm going Ford D60, Ford NP205, Ford NP435 why don't I do this??

94 95 MUSTANG 5.0 L 302 V8 ENGINE MOTOR 1994 1995 H.O. : eBay Motors (item 130370943608 end time Mar-30-10 12:19:45 PDT)

This way I won't have a single adapter. I'll sell off a ton of my stuff and even have an emptier garage when i'm done.

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Unread 03-01-2010, 05:02 PM   #129
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I am more familiar with the earlier mustang 5.0. like 1990ish. Mass-air i used the ford motorsport harness in my CJ7 and it was running in no time. Not sure about the later 5.0's i thought there was something different about them that made them not as easy to wire up.
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Unread 03-01-2010, 05:19 PM   #130
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I am more familiar with the earlier mustang 5.0. like 1990ish. Mass-air i used the ford motorsport harness in my CJ7 and it was running in no time. Not sure about the later 5.0's i thought there was something different about them that made them not as easy to wire up.
Hey lumpster, thanks for the message. I've been looking around like crazy but I can't even find any reference as to what version of the 302 mustang engine is easiest to put in- keeping the efi. I can buy an ECU for a manual tranny for $150 and a harness for $150... It seems almost any 80's to mid 90's 302's with efi have gone into Jeeps (from what I've seen on internet so far)

I'm really tempted since I've made the decision to go driver's side drop. May as well just go Ford right down the driveline... I now have a Ford NP435 and a Ford NP205 just waiting to go behind a Ford engine. Need a bellhousing, too. I don't want to spend money on an AA engine/tranny adapter setup- it will cost 1/2 of a nice efi 302 engine AND I still need to pay to rebuild one of my 327's or 350... Makes it easier just to buy the Ford 320 - turn-key and buy a cheap Ford bellhousing.
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Unread 03-01-2010, 06:27 PM   #131
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Does anyone know what years of Mustang EFI engines are easiest to wire up?

Thanks
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Unread 03-01-2010, 06:31 PM   #132
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Ford Racing M-12071-A50 - Ford Racing Multiport EFI Wiring Harness Systems - Overview - SummitRacing.com


this thing was 225 back when i bought it. They sure are proud of it now.

Its for 87-93
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Unread 03-01-2010, 06:52 PM   #133
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Ford Racing M-12071-A50 - Ford Racing Multiport EFI Wiring Harness Systems - Overview - SummitRacing.com


this thing was 225 back when i bought it. They sure are proud of it now.

Its for 87-93
Yes, the better side of $550 just for the harness. The salvage yard's seems a better deal and I'm OK with wiring- just lazy! So I suppose I could just use the $150 OEM ecu harness and prune it.

That 1995 engine would also need a dizzy swap to use the Painless or Ford Racing harness...
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Unread 03-01-2010, 07:11 PM   #134
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Does the motor your looking at come with the computer and harness complete?


Check out this site

http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/06tech/index.html
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Unread 03-01-2010, 08:21 PM   #135
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Does the motor your looking at come with the computer and harness complete?


Check out this site

tech
OK, thanks a bunch. Just read it and nothing too serious for a Jeep swap using the 94 engine. The RMP EGR Eliminator kit is the start for a cleaner engine. Too bad about the shorter manifold and giving away 10 hp.

The harnes and computer are extra. so is the MAF and plumbing for it- 100 more again.

Thanks for the help.
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