Jim's new hybrid Scrambler build- tons of questions coming! - Page 73

**jeepsterjc** · 05-23-2011, 07:41 PM

Oopps. Since Eric asked about the reference that I had used- and I hadn't, to rebuild the NP435 I got to doubting myself. I put the en-play on the tapered bearing to 10 thou. Just used a number I got off of internet. I just found 1 to 5 thou and that makes way more sense.

Guess where I'm going to for 15 minutes??

**jeepsterjc** · 05-23-2011, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EricsGreen98Tj

Hey Jim what manual did you use for the Nv435? I'm still kickin around the idea for a swap for my beloved 4 banger but IDK....Just tryin to keep the parts/adapters/and info around IF I do decide to go through with it....Glad your moving forward again!

I'm trying to only provide helpful info in my rambling... but I've been careless so I need to be clear about the tapered bearing end-play.

When I reassembled it this afternoon I clamped the rear bearing down as shown in the first pic below and measured the clearance between the tapered bearing retainer on the other end of the case without any shims in place. A 0.008 feeler gauge was just right going in.

The roller bearing on the output, on an assembled drive-line, is clamped in place when it sandwiches in between the tranny case and the extension to the tcase.

I added shims to total 18 or 19 thou. This should have left about 10 thou play (yes- I know, 1 to 5 thou is what we are really looking for). I prepped the paper shims with Spray-Tack Red and torqued the retainer down then finished off the fork-rail-tower swap. I never re-measured the tapered bearing end-play.

These are some of the shims I have left over:

I should have put a dial gauge on it before but I didn't. I have now.

It looks like things are good to go as-is:

End-play one way:

End-play the other way:

So it looks like the new shims compressed more than 50%, but my end-play is 2.5 to 3 thousanths.

It's a Jim-job after all!

So that's one way of doing it, Eric.

BTW- dial gauges are cheap now. Well worth the money.

EricsGreen98Tj · 05-23-2011, 09:27 PM

Yeah thats true but ya still gotta get used to using one....correctly in my case

**jeepsterjc** · 05-24-2011, 10:10 AM

So I just want to say thanks to Blaine W for all of his help bringing in various goodies and especially coming up with two trannies and tcases.

I have a nice massive steel SBF bellhousing for a mechanical clutch that I'm now thinking of adapting for hydraulic use. My aluminum hydraulic bh has a rattle in it... got a crack in it somewhere and I haven't found it yet. I don't have any dye. Time for the magnifying glasses I guess, eh SonicR1?

**jeepsterjc** · 05-24-2011, 10:48 AM

I found a good write-up on how to convert your stock mechanical linkage clutch to hydraulic for a SBF. Part numbers and setup are illustrated.

http://classicbroncos.com/hydraulicclutch.shtml

If the Wilwood MC is short enough to fit in behind the booster it may be something to consider. My current 3 complete Ford hydraulic clutch systems I've scavenged are all too long to fit in without interfering. The reservoirs all jam tight against the side of the booster and will only sit crooked on the firewall. Many 5.0 conversions with hydraulic clutches have this trouble it seems.

**jeepsterjc** · 05-24-2011, 11:05 AM

Wilwood makes a compact remote aluminum master cylinder that is super narrow.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-6089/10002/-1

I don't know about the spacing between the mounting holes yet but it may work out. The Wilwood 260-7577 - Wilwood Compact Remote Aluminum Master Cylinder reserviour is crazy expensive but overall the whole system is cheaper than a new Ford setup- that doesn't fit.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-7577/10002/-1

The slave is a sweet looking little thing and is a "puller":

http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-1333/10002/-1

**jeepsterjc** · 05-24-2011, 06:52 PM

I've been out measuring and this little baby

may tuck in better than the MC that uses the remote reservoir. It looks like it will also manage to be bolted to the firewall rather tidily, too.

The 3/4 bore is the one that is recommended by Wilwood.

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...ter%20Cylinder

I'll save money by not getting the cracked BH repaired. I'll have a stouter, tougher BH and everything will fit without looking crooked or gibbled together. Anywho- those are the current plans unless anyone comes up with something that rocks my world.

**jeepsterjc** · 05-25-2011, 09:01 AM

Does anyone have a Summit Racing or Jegs coupon code I could reference for a discount? I'll order up the master and slave this afternoon. Thanks

**Jim1611** · 05-25-2011, 10:24 AM

Hey Jim where are you going to put the proportioning valve? It might be a close fit to leave it on the frame with the different tranny and clutch arm. I think I'm going to make a bracket and mount it off the bolts that hold the MC to the booster. That's the way the YJ is set up too. Would be easy to get to for adjusting for us lder guys too.

**jeepsterjc** · 05-25-2011, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim1611

Hey Jim where are you going to put the proportioning valve? It might be a close fit to leave it on the frame with the different tranny and clutch arm. I think I'm going to make a bracket and mount it off the bolts that hold the MC to the booster. That's the way the YJ is set up too. Would be easy to get to for adjusting for us lder guys too.

I also have a proportioning valve bracket from a YJ. I may use it or something similar, but I've read that some builders with my exact disk/disk setup using the Tuff Stuff dual diaphragm (or YJ dual diaphragm) booster and Vette MC don't require a proportioning valve... You're ahead of me on this, Jim.

**jeepsterjc** · 05-25-2011, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim1611

Hey Jim where are you going to put the proportioning valve? It might be a close fit to leave it on the frame with the different tranny and clutch arm. I think I'm going to make a bracket and mount it off the bolts that hold the MC to the booster. That's the way the YJ is set up too. Would be easy to get to for adjusting for us lder guys too.

I can't remember, Jim. You also have rear disks going onto you rear 9 inch, right?

**Jim1611** · 05-25-2011, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeepsterjc

I can't remember, Jim. You also have rear disks going onto you rear 9 inch, right?

Yes I do have rear disc. I all to well remember my 71 Scout with 36" tires and manual drum brakes. Needed plenty of room to stop it.

**jeepsterjc** · 05-26-2011, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim1611

Yes I do have rear disc. I all to well remember my 71 Scout with 36" tires and manual drum brakes. Needed plenty of room to stop it.

I know the feeling!

**jeepsterjc** · 05-26-2011, 09:00 AM

Does anyone know where I can order up a non-dropped Jeep style pitman arm that is 6 1/2 inches on center between the holes AND takes a larger tapered tie-rod that would be used by an F350?

My current F350 pitman would be perfect if the 4 thicker positioning splines weren't clocked differently on it.

I have one for my '77 CJ that will work but it is very narrow. I think that it may fail from working the 40 inch MTRs. The F350's is a really massive pitman by comparison.

What do you guys think?

**Jim1611** · 05-26-2011, 02:26 PM

What about hydraulic assist on the steering Jim. That might be a worthwhile investment for you with those wimpy tires.

I'd at the very least buy an aftermarket steering box and you're gonna need a beefy tie rod and drag link too. Sounds like the pitman arm is going to be a weak link. I wonder of there's any way to machine an adapter to mate the f350 arm to the CJ steering box? Maybe this would be another cool product to manfacture. Got any pictures?