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Unread 08-15-2010, 08:28 PM   #436
jeepsterjc
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I'm trying to get the Scrambler ambulatory and have finished blasting the rear hubs and front spindles. I was going to powder coat the rear hubs and part of the front hubs but now am leaning towards etching primer and Rustoleum. The reason being that I can always rattle can rock scoured hubs but powder coating will only look OK until it gets chipped up a bit... The powder coat will have a shorter life than something I can just prep and paint to new condition again.

The pitting was rather deep - 15 year old axles in salt sometimes and took more time to glass bead blast than I thought they would. Next up- etching primer and Rustoleum.

I have a bit more to clean up on the other rear. Those rear wheel bearings are huge!

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Unread 08-16-2010, 09:32 PM   #437
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Got to the final prep and painting for the hubs today. Blew through 50 pound of recycled sand with the nozzle only plugging 8 or 9 times. Did some finish glass bead blasting. Got the rotors turned for 40 dollars. Then on to priming and painting. I went with one shade darker Industrial Grey for the hubs and rotor from the axles. 3 coats of Rustoleum Enamel.



Now I need to get the frame out for finishing with Rustoleum Black tomorrow.
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Unread 08-17-2010, 08:57 PM   #438
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I took a few hours today to wash, dry, sand then Rustoleum paint the frame. The pic show a grey around the closest corner and I went out to see "What the he!! is that??" and it is fully covered- inside and out- in thick black... weird effect from the flash I suppose. So, tomorrow I rebuild the rear and front 1 ton axles and get wheels on them. That will be a big day- to finaly have the axles bolted under the frame with whhels attached and movable arount the yard. I'll still have to change out the front inner seals but I'll get to those after my son finishes his visit, perhaps.
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Unread 08-18-2010, 09:05 PM   #439
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OK. Got to cleaning and packing rear bearings, polishing the rear bearing races with 180 diamond grit, installing new rear hub seals, rear hubs, cleaning up the 15 years of smashing off the spindles and leaving deformed knuckles where the splindles to knuckles mate, repainting and pulling the front carrier for seal replacement and axle tube final cleaning and finish painting the front top control arm mounts.



Before and after on the spindle polishing/clean up.



So... tomorrow maybe I'll have the axles bolted to the frame through the double Johnny jointed arms for real.
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Unread 08-18-2010, 09:38 PM   #440
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Very nice!

I have one of Jeremy's hybrid frames under an Aqualu tub and it's a great match. You'll love it.

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Unread 08-18-2010, 09:53 PM   #441
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I'm curious,why did you pack your rear bearings with grease?
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Unread 08-18-2010, 10:02 PM   #442
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Very nice!

I have one of Jeremy's hybrid frames under an Aqualu tub and it's a great match. You'll love it.

Sweet CJ

I'm really anxious to set the tub down on the frame. Should be soon. Also, the engine will be looking for a home in there as soon as I can establish a ride height with some generic MOOG coils.
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Unread 08-18-2010, 10:06 PM   #443
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I'm curious,why did you pack your rear bearings with grease?
I packed the bearings for two reasons. The first is that they will self destruct if rolled around dry with a load on them without lube. I'll be moving the rig around from now on with wheels in place with or without axles (the lsd is real tight in back) so they need lube. It may be some time before I get to filling the diff, so the packed bearing will work fine for months until i get to filling the pumpkins. As the gear oil circ's around the grease will dissolve real fast anyway.
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Unread 08-19-2010, 12:48 PM   #444
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10 minutes of work: Crowbarred out the carrier, used a 30" 1/2 extension to tap out the driver side seal and the 30 and 24 for the passenger side. The pinion bearings still have preload and are smooth to roll. Good. I'll just change out the pinion seal a little latter. Here are a couple pics showing the differences in size between the reverse cut Dana 60 front and a common Dana 35 I had laying around. Also, stock Ford Dana 60 front axles compared to some old Dana 30 axles and universals. I've decided to save some money and re-use the outer floating 30 spline stub axles.



After an Anniversay lunch I'll should have time to clean and button up the front end today.
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Unread 08-19-2010, 08:42 PM   #445
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After I yanked the tie-rod off the driverside balljoints were just too worn to bother keeping. The passenger joints were putting up all of the resistance. So off I went to NAPA and bought the made in America (somewhere) better joints. They went in nicely. So the paint work still look OK but maybe a little touch up will happen.

Tube cleaning went great. Still have to pop the new axle seals in tomorrow. I still may get the rig rolling (sort of) tomorrow to free up the hoist. I do know the carrier will be tough to get in. Probably 15 or 20 minutes to convince it. I raelly had to pry to get it out. I wore my catchers mitt and caught it as it crossed home plate.

Anyone know if the upper 90 degree zerk can stay in the ball joint?? I looked at the clearance on my daily driver 1 ton and it maaaayy clear... Anyone know?


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Unread 08-20-2010, 09:39 PM   #446
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Front Dana 60 Almost Done

Started late and had two runs to the pressure wash. The first to de-grime the carrier, the second to do the same for the front axle shafts and universals. The front joints were great so I re-used them. Glass bead blasted today then hosed off then painted.

The seals were so easy to install with the pumpkin opened up and removed from the vehicle- just turn and position to the best advantage. The carrier went in real fast. A spreader would have been useful. Didn't have one so I just smashed it in with a massive sledge hammer... just kidding!!

The spindles got new torrington bearings and I used the "umbrella" style seals. I'll see how they work out. I no-seized the spindle mating surfaces then torqued them to 65 foot pounds.



So- to the wheel hubs and rotors tomorrow and control arms and wheels thenout of the garage it goes for a Subaru clutch job... Then engine/drivetrain positioning and other great stuff.
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Unread 08-20-2010, 10:26 PM   #447
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Anyone know if the upper 90 degree zerk can stay in the ball joint?? I looked at the clearance on my daily driver 1 ton and it maaaayy clear... Anyone know?

As it turns out the 90 zerk interfered but a standard straight zerk clears easily and I can lube the ball joint with a fancy 90 grease gun fitting.
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Unread 08-21-2010, 08:42 PM   #448
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Rolling And Out Of The Garage

Rebuilt the front hubs, finished off cleaning the rear axle shafts, cut my coil spacers to fit for ride stance (not height- 32's on- not 40's), mounted axles on frame with the double Johnny Jointed arms and rolled it out. My son DANA says the Dana 60 is OK!


Hey- that 460 there looks like it'll stuff in there...
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Unread 08-22-2010, 01:49 AM   #449
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Rolling chassis. Sweet. Looking good.
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My Jeep:
00 Wrangler Sport 4.0L NV3550
4" RC LA full suspension system
Bilstein 5100 shocks all around
axles (30,8.8) with 4.88 gears ARB F/R
SYE and CV rear driveshaft from Drivelines NW
Currie HD steering (Thanks Savvy, Awesome customer service)
Savvy LED tail lights (Thanks again Savvy)
GY MT/R Kevlar 35x12.50x15 on 15x10 American Racing AR23
Bestop soft top with tinted windows
Smitty front and rear bumpers w/rear tire carrier
Smitty XRC8 winch w/synthetic rope
Smitty rear corners and rock sliders with step
Genrite aluminum 6" tube fenders front/rear
Dodge Durango steering box with Pure Jeep skid and M.O.R.E. steering brace
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Unread 08-22-2010, 10:16 AM   #450
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Rolling chassis. Sweet. Looking good.
Thanks 07wurubi.

I just went out this am to see how 40" rubber will fit. It looks as though another 1.5 to 2 inch set back using the H2 rims with 40's will NOT interfere with my lower control arms. Woohoo!!

So now for coils, trackbars and shocks.
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