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Unread 07-18-2010, 08:42 PM   #391
cableguy01960
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Verry nice, I love the scramblers
cant wait to see it finnished

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Unread 07-18-2010, 08:43 PM   #392
jeepsterjc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07wurubi View Post
Here is a link to the instructions of a Dana 60 that is being installed in a TJ from the OX site.

http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/LinkClick.a...id=436&mid=813

Hope link works.
Thanks and thanks for the link. Downloading now. That's what I thought I read- through the front diff cover. That may not work for me. Things are going to be real tight down there. Also- I read that something exposed was made of plastic on the mechanism and could break- but I'm not sure.

I do like the idea of a manual locker- not air or electric. We have tons of humidity at times here. Electric doesn't worry me, but I was told the electric lockers couldn't take 39s... Maybe that was just the Elocker- can't remember what Tom at Tom's Diffs was refering to.
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Unread 07-18-2010, 08:50 PM   #393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07wurubi View Post
Here is a link to the instructions of a Dana 60 that is being installed in a TJ from the OX site.

http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/LinkClick.a...id=436&mid=813

Hope link works.
OK- Just got through the OX manual and it the diff cover doesn't stand out too far the locker should fit and work fine. The OX carrier acts like it is and open diff when unlocked, right?
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Unread 07-18-2010, 08:57 PM   #394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m View Post
Dump the dust sheilds, they only trap rocks and junk in there.

I have a round wire brush that was used to clean out smoke traps or a chimeny. I cut it down to just fit into the tube of a 60. On the end of the wire brush is a metal stem or a handle, I attach that end to a hand drill and send it down the axle tube's.

Get new inner axle seals to, with that much mileage on the trucks I bet the seals will leak.

Jason.
Dust shields gone. I'll cut down the wire brushes on one of mine and go for. Thanks.
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Unread 07-18-2010, 09:01 PM   #395
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Burned out my last grinder with 1 bracket to go ;-(

Well- made a mess of my shop today. Went through 2 1/2 6 inch zip disks and got all but the last bracket of 7 or 8 removed. The Canadian Tire angle grinder bit the dust and no more brushes... Here are some pics of the carnage.



Last bracket-
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Unread 07-19-2010, 06:28 PM   #396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cableguy01960 View Post
Verry nice, I love the scramblers
cant wait to see it finnished
Thanks! Me too.
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Unread 07-19-2010, 06:38 PM   #397
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OK, I splurged and bought the $59.00 Hitachi angle grinder. Lots of power for such a little guy. Finished removing the last bracket left on the front diff, ground down all of the debris, and flapper wheeled it. Next I'll drag out both diffs for a final sand blasting to clean up the front knuckles that are staying on and to give the same texture to all of the ground down areas.

Some eye candy pics of my progress- two ready-to-build 1 ton axles!! First I'll spin out the garbage in the front axle tubes. Then the new bracketry gets tacked on- the lower front driver side will be a charmer. A bunch of patrs washing in a solvent tub. Seal replacements and back together they both go.

After that a tough industrial grey color for paint. Can anyone suggest a tough paint? Thanks in advance.



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Unread 07-19-2010, 06:44 PM   #398
KA24DET95
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Por15. Powder coat if you really wanna strip it down all the way. Or bedliner
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Unread 07-20-2010, 06:48 AM   #399
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A friend of mine showed me a trick not long ago when painting. After scuffing them up really good, take a torch and go over the metal and you can actually see water evaporating off the metal. Then take some etching primer to it and finally paint. Pick your poison but rustoleum does pretty good. I wouldn't use bed liner. By the way....looking good!
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Unread 07-24-2010, 10:04 PM   #400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mschviuz View Post
A friend of mine showed me a trick not long ago when painting. After scuffing them up really good, take a torch and go over the metal and you can actually see water evaporating off the metal. Then take some etching primer to it and finally paint. Pick your poison but rustoleum does pretty good. I wouldn't use bed liner. By the way....looking good!
I shopping for rustoleum. Thanks.
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Unread 07-24-2010, 10:15 PM   #401
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Well- I had a part of the day and started grinding the rear brackets to fit the bigger axle tubes. Next, I pulled out the mig and nothing but splatter. Turns out the CO2 valve in the handle had broken... bought it at Liquidation World... Fixed the valve and voila- nice welds.

Started with the rear and only had interference with the original brake union/breather block with the upper control arm/track bar mount. I'll have to weld it shut, drill in another and tap it.

















The big rear Ford Sterling clears everything- the fuel tank (that I have relocated) and the track bar mount on the frame- great stuff.

The front end is mocked up a bit and it is doeable but is going to be a bear.

I did a bit of trig to ruff-in the pinion angle to use a CV rear drive shaft. I don't know if you can see the pinion pointing up on the rear end.

The front axle looks like with some careful planning it will clear the trackbar mount on the frame and the front driveshaft will miss the frame and lower control arm frame mount.

Got a throat infection and may take Sunday off...
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Unread 07-25-2010, 09:31 PM   #402
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Time to find 4 coils

I've got the suspension setup mostly sorted out and have questions about what coil characteristics. First some pics:

This is the front end at full stuff. I only have 3 "inches up-travel from my desired ride height. The trackbar mount clears the diff and the driveshaft does not interfeer with the frame/lower control arm mount.


Here is the rear-end with desired ride height. I have 9 inches between the rear coil buckets.


Here is the Sterling up to 6 inches (actually frame down...love the hoist) between the buckets. The trackbar mount clears my forward fuel tank crossmember so the rear can compress much much higher if I want.


The clearance at my "normal" ride height between the front-end coil buckets is 15 inches and bumpstop at 12 inches. What coil should I look at for the front I wonder??

The rear coil must compress to a "normal" loaded-ride-height to 9 inches. What coils for it I wonder?

I'll look around for a TJ to measure, but right now don't have access to find out what is normally seen for clearances and fit.

Thanks everyone for any ideas. Bring 'em on!
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Unread 07-25-2010, 09:46 PM   #403
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I'm heading for something like (but less in $$$) this:
Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board - View Single Post - ROKMEN LJ Build
It is on 40" Goodyear MTRs
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Unread 07-25-2010, 11:59 PM   #404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepsterjc View Post
I'm heading for something like (but less in $$$) this:
Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board - View Single Post - ROKMEN LJ Build
It is on 40" Goodyear MTRs
That thing is sweet looking.
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My Jeep:
00 Wrangler Sport 4.0L NV3550
4" RC LA full suspension system
Bilstein 5100 shocks all around
axles (30,8.8) with 4.88 gears ARB F/R
SYE and CV rear driveshaft from Drivelines NW
Currie HD steering (Thanks Savvy, Awesome customer service)
Savvy LED tail lights (Thanks again Savvy)
GY MT/R Kevlar 35x12.50x15 on 15x10 American Racing AR23
Bestop soft top with tinted windows
Smitty front and rear bumpers w/rear tire carrier
Smitty XRC8 winch w/synthetic rope
Smitty rear corners and rock sliders with step
Genrite aluminum 6" tube fenders front/rear
Dodge Durango steering box with Pure Jeep skid and M.O.R.E. steering brace
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Unread 07-26-2010, 10:27 AM   #405
jeepsterjc
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Just got dualtjs' MOOG coil spring spreadsheet

I emailed dualtjs last night asking for his spreadsheet again. Seems my filing system isn't as great as I thought it was...

Already waiting in my email this am. Thanks dualtjs. The spreadsheet is awesome.
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hybrid scrambler , scrambler tj frame

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