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Unread 09-01-2010, 05:10 AM   #46
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I was already committed to using the hot rod flat on my chassis but I bet the Rustoleum Hammered Enamel would work great on a chassis. When I was looking for high heat paint to spray my bbq pit, I noticed they offer the Hammered Enamel in quarts at 1/3 the price I paid for the hot rod flat.

I used a brush and roller to paint my utility trailer in 2006 but once I had a compressor I use rattle cans as little as possible.

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Unread 09-01-2010, 06:42 AM   #47
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Dave is it a misconception of mine or do you get a better and more durable finish if you use a gun to spray it on instead of rattle cans.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 09:31 AM   #48
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You will get a much better job from the gun, Even the lower quality paints for the gun are usually better than any spray can paint that is out there. I have been messing around with paint for several years now and love that for about 100 bucks you can have a good quality paint job on a jeep. I am by no means a proffesional but I have painted about 15-20 vehicles now, the best advice I can give you is keep those guns clean and practice.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 10:00 AM   #49
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You will get a much better job from the gun, Even the lower quality paints for the gun are usually better than any spray can paint that is out there. I have been messing around with paint for several years now and love that for about 100 bucks you can have a good quality paint job on a jeep. I am by no means a proffesional but I have painted about 15-20 vehicles now, the best advice I can give you is keep those guns clean and practice.
Thanks for the tips Chris.

I intend to get the practice part going pretty soon. I need to get some kind of regulator and water trap and I'll be ready to paint something.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 10:21 AM   #50
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Most compressors come with a regulator on them (Yours may not). I ran without the water trap for some time and was fine but I wouldn't recomend spraying the tub without one. I practiced on old car parts like wrecked fenders and what not. I just painted whatever I had. If you talk to your paint supply store they may have batches of paint that were mixed wrong that you can buy at a discount to practice with.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 11:43 AM   #51
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the best advice I can give you is keep those guns clean

I have only used cheapo HF guns so far and replacement parts are probably available but a pain to get. I ruined the "packing" that seals the liquid needle when I submerged the gun in thinner. It is almost a necessity with epoxy primer. At 14.95 a pop they are pretty cheap but I have 3 that are only good for parts now.

You might contact the manufacturer or go online and see if they have a disassembly guide and replacement parts for your gun.

I will hold my neck out and say even cheap automotive and farm paint is better than rattle can. The exception may be Rustoleum hammered metal, it seems pretty durable.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 12:06 PM   #52
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I use alot of single stage equipment paint on my stuff, my paint shop can mix any color even with metalic and it is about 80 bucks a gallon with the hardners and it comes out ok. Here are a couple I painted myself. The CJ is not done yet that is a current project, Here is my XJ project that I did the only part I didn't like about this one was the orange peel but I could have wet sanded it out.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f177/...roject-909137/
0830001447a.jpg   0802001907b.jpg   0322001609.jpg  
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Unread 09-01-2010, 12:13 PM   #53
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Most compressors come with a regulator on them (Yours may not). I ran without the water trap for some time and was fine but I wouldn't recomend spraying the tub without one. I practiced on old car parts like wrecked fenders and what not. I just painted whatever I had. If you talk to your paint supply store they may have batches of paint that were mixed wrong that you can buy at a discount to practice with.
I mean the regulator for the gun. I see them that attach to the bottom of the gun where the air line attaches. I'll check on the batches of paint that got mixed wrong, hadn't thought of that. Great idea!

Quote:
You might contact the manufacturer or go online and see if they have a disassembly guide and replacement parts for your gun.

I will hold my neck out and say even cheap automotive and farm paint is better than rattle can. The exception may be Rustoleum hammered metal, it seems pretty durable.
Dave I did find an online owner's manual yesterday that was in pdf form. I printed it off. It's got the the parts diagram, settings, and a troubleshooting part for correcting problems. Looked to be very helpful.

Glad to hear that this is the way to go in order to get a good paint job. Not to take credit away from spray cans either as they have been great to have but if there's a way to make things hold up better I want to know. After all it is allot of work to completely tear a vechicle apart, clean, sandblast, repair and get parts ready for a finish. It should be done to last. That's my goal anyway.

You guys that have done this. I sure appreciate the help and comments!!
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Unread 09-01-2010, 12:16 PM   #54
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Your projects look great Chris! $80.00 a gallon seems reasonable too. The parts store has standard colors that are about $25.00 a quart. No doubt I'll need to shop around and find a good place to get supplies, this is a new area of work for me.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 12:21 PM   #55
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Your projects look great Chris! $80.00 a gallon seems reasonable too. The parts store has standard colors that are about $25.00 a quart. No doubt I'll need to shop around and find a good place to get supplies, this is a new area of work for me.
Try and find a smaller family owned shop they seem to be much more helpful and will give any advice they have. Also since you are a business owner you can open an account and get even better prices, that is what I did with my local shop. My local shop charges me 28 bucks a quart for any color of the single stage and they have done awesome work on matching existing colors. that black jeep has body parts from several others and I only painted the parts and there is no way you can tell that from factory.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 05:02 PM   #56
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Guys I'm thinking on ways to build some engine mounts. I would like to make them so that they bolt in using the existing holes in the frame with a crossmember that runs under the oil pan. It will be removeable in case I need to get it out of the way for dropping the oil pan or some other reason. I also may use the crossmember as an attaching point for a skid plate that would run from the transfer case to the engine.

It would be using poly bushings that will be mounted inside some DOM tubing that is welded to the 1 1/2" square tubing that the majority of the mount would be made from.

Any thoughts or ideas?
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Unread 09-01-2010, 05:59 PM   #57
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I bet the finished product will looks pretty slick after seeing you tie rod project

The crossmember might be overkill but it would not hurt to add it.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 07:16 PM   #58
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I bet the finished product will looks pretty slick after seeing you tie rod project

The crossmember might be overkill but it would not hurt to add it.
Dave overkill is my middle name. All of my life it's been that way and I may be getting too old to change, my wife tells me I'm not very adaptable.

Thanks on the compliment!

Fatman, and I hope he doesn't mind me using his idea and picture, had a great idea on mounting the SBC in his Jeep. I had been thinking along the same lines when I saw his. His are welded to the frame, mine will not be. Anyway his concept is what I have in mind.
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Unread 09-09-2010, 10:49 PM   #59
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Well, how's it going?
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Unread 09-10-2010, 07:06 AM   #60
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Well, how's it going?
Thanks for asking. Progress got put on hold for the Labor Day weekend. We had about 50 people here Saturday afternoon for a shinn dig, you that kind where everyone eats too much. Some of our family stayed with us over the weekend. The grandkids always like that, they get to do some shooting. I enjoy it as much as they do. Monday my wife and I spent the day working in the yard. We had put up a flagpole some time ago and we got that all landscaped. Got the tractor stuck in the creek getting rocks for that job. It was a good day though. She asked me last night what I was doing Saturday, I told her I was working on the Jeep. I'm going to start putting the YJ tub on the frame. I had made a rear crossmember/bumper and welded the rear body mounts to that. That was for a CJ tub so they are cut off and will be moved. When I get the tub in place then I can work on getting the drivetrain and engine mounting started. Looking forward to it too!

Here's that mount that needs moving and our hard work for Monday, man was I sore!!
100_0127.jpg   100_0143.jpg   100_0141.jpg  
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