Jim's new hybrid Scrambler build- tons of questions coming! - Page 50 - JeepForum.com

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post #736 of 1968 Old 01-09-2011, 05:33 PM
Coiz
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I had to trim my trans tunnel to fit the NP435. I also remember heating and bending my shifter rod a bunch of times to get it to clear my dash in 1st and my center console in Reverse. I'm expecting to have to tweek it again with the new 1"BL.

The suspension and brake parts are looking sweet. I wish I could keep mine that clean.


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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #737 of 1968 Old 01-09-2011, 05:42 PM
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Jim I like the plan you have for the top. Sounds like you can get busy with all the parts you have in ths shop too. I'll be looking forward to what's next.
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post #738 of 1968 Old 01-09-2011, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I had to trim my trans tunnel to fit the NP435. I also remember heating and bending my shifter rod a bunch of times to get it to clear my dash in 1st and my center console in Reverse. I'm expecting to have to tweek it again with the new 1"BL.

The suspension and brake parts are looking sweet. I wish I could keep mine that clean.
Hello Mike. Yes, I'll have to spend some time on the stick. At least when I'm bending it I'll be happy to know that I'm looking at the Scrambler with a tranny, cross-member and an engine in place! I'll have a better idea about ride height and trackbar placement, too.

Too bad everything will so quickly get messed up once it gets on the road... I guess we had better take all of our poser shots booked with the photographer and set for the day of roll-out.

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Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Jim I like the plan you have for the top. Sounds like you can get busy with all the parts you have in ths shop too. I'll be looking forward to what's next.
Thanks Jim. I can hardly wait to get the pedals, booster and master in place. I've got lots of blasting on the pedals for clean up and some drilling to do. I can even plumb the hydraulics before the engine goes in! I don't think that bashing into the master is too risky. Do you?

***
I've got a question for both of you as you two have CJ7s that are going back together better than mint! I've held back on bolting the tub down because I don't know how far back it should go. Where does it line up above/along the rear cross-member? Is it even, vertically with the rear face of the cross-member or a little bit forward of the cross-member?

Thanks a lot for checking. No rush- don't go a measure tonight!! Watching a 4 part PBS movie with my wife!

Thanks again.
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post #739 of 1968 Old 01-09-2011, 11:34 PM
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Thanks Imped. Hi praise from a hard-core Jeeper like yourself. I appreciate it.

So that submarine shot of yours near the end of your build thread... Was it a really sudden drop? How much work was it to get the rig running again?

It looks like you have some great trails where you live.
Are you referring to the flop or water shot? The water shot is an optical illusion. I didn't go through water over my hood but we did hit some deep water that was just under 40" deep. Extended breathers and good axle seals FTW. As for the flop, no irreversible damage was done to the jeep that day. All that's needed is a little touch up paint and a new door surround. In that case, lots of armor (tub support) FTW.

OlllllllO
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post #740 of 1968 Old 01-10-2011, 06:37 AM
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[QUOTE

Thanks Jim. I can hardly wait to get the pedals, booster and master in place. I've got lots of blasting on the pedals for clean up and some drilling to do. I can even plumb the hydraulics before the engine goes in! I don't think that bashing into the master is too risky. Do you?

***
I've got a question for both of you as you two have CJ7s that are going back together better than mint! I've held back on bolting the tub down because I don't know how far back it should go. Where does it line up above/along the rear cross-member? Is it even, vertically with the rear face of the cross-member or a little bit forward of the cross-member?

Thanks a lot for checking. No rush- don't go a measure tonight!! Watching a 4 part PBS movie with my wife!

Thanks again.[/QUOTE]

As long as you're careful you ought to be fine putting the master cylinder in before the engine. At least that way you'll get to see how much room you have between the two.

On my CJ the tub is even with the back of the crossmember, or pretty close anyway. Might not be a bad idea to get the grille and fenders on to make sure the tub is going to line up with them in place first. That looks like a first rate tub but it's better safe than sorry.

Hey Jim I liked the sound of the engine in your Grocery Getter.
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post #741 of 1968 Old 01-10-2011, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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[/QUOTE]

As long as you're careful you ought to be fine putting the master cylinder in before the engine. At least that way you'll get to see how much room you have between the two.

On my CJ the tub is even with the back of the crossmember, or pretty close anyway. Might not be a bad idea to get the grille and fenders on to make sure the tub is going to line up with them in place first. That looks like a first rate tub but it's better safe than sorry.

Hey Jim I liked the sound of the engine in your Grocery Getter. [/QUOTE]
Morning Jim,

Thanks for letting me know where your tub sits on the frame. I'll probably set the engine in with the brake components installed. I'm not using any oem or after market fenders- they'll be my own work, so the only thing I've got to do is try to get the grill vertical and the hood release to line up- I've got 1/4 inch +/- on that. I'm working on a clean canvas here- so to speak.

The engine sound- that was a little too loud for me sometimes but it did have a nice deep tone to it. I liked the sound the exhaust had. This time I want a deep but quiet sound. I like the exhaust note on the 5.0s using the center X pipe. but that would be impossible to set up I think.
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post #742 of 1968 Old 01-10-2011, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Are you referring to the flop or water shot? The water shot is an optical illusion. I didn't go through water over my hood but we did hit some deep water that was just under 40" deep. Extended breathers and good axle seals FTW. As for the flop, no irreversible damage was done to the jeep that day. All that's needed is a little touch up paint and a new door surround. In that case, lots of armor (tub support) FTW.
The water shot-

I see it now- you're just over the edge coming up. I'm feeling better for you now! What an awesome photo.
Glad the flop over didn't cause too much damage either.
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post #743 of 1968 Old 01-10-2011, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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OK- Did a little reading and chatting with Jim1611 and thought the brakes for a 1 ton set of axles, that worked well, could be found for much less. I found a new Pro comp 8 inch dual diaphragm brake booster in chrome for 65 bucks, a new 1969 to 1976 Vette master cylinder for $20, a new E350 disk/disk master cylinder for $14, and an entire used YJ master cylinder/booster/brackets/rod assembly for $35 and $25 bucks shipping. Everything else was free shipping.




I'll clean up and use the brackets off of the used assembly. My CJ7 had manual brake so the set up was different- no brackets.

I'll find out how these go together and let everyone know. Both master cylinders should, I think, bolt up without drilling or grinding. At least that's what I've read if this booster is what I think I bought. If this works out the cost for my brake system will be very reasonable for me. Thanks to Rebelracing also for helping me pin down what may work.
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post #744 of 1968 Old 01-10-2011, 08:26 PM
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If it works man that is gonna be on heck of a brake system! I'm gettin real jelous.....

Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
My junk http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/survivor-project-driveway-frame-swap-33s-build-1280626/index3.html
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post #745 of 1968 Old 01-18-2011, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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If it works man that is gonna be on heck of a brake system! I'm gettin real jelous.....
Yeah! The used assembly has arrived and I'll pick it up tomorrow. I'll remove the booster to firewall bracket from it, glass bead it up, paint them then assemble it to all of the new parts.
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post #746 of 1968 Old 01-18-2011, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Haven't done anything much lately- been too busy like some of the others with builds going right now- chores around the home, and stuff...
But..
I've been struggling with my baby drill-press and came up with a workable solution for some of its limitations. I've thought that the reach from the vertical post to the chuck was ok, but the height from the lowered table to a large bit was too limited.

Then, while I was cleaning up the shop from the last maintenance chore on the daily driver 1 ton and tripping over the roll cage tubing a couple of times I came up with an idea.

Yeah yeah- I trip on this too often but it is 24 feet long and my shop is only 22 feet long!


I measured the OD of the little Chinese made drill-press vertical post and it was 1.850 inches. It just so happens that the OD of that HSS structural tubing I bought is 1.9 inches...

I went and chopped 48 inches off of one of the lengths and put it in a lathe and turned it down to 1.86 inches and did a stretch job. Here are the results:

And yes- the garage isn't finished yet... but neither is our kitchen completed and I've been working on it even longer.
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post #747 of 1968 Old 01-18-2011, 06:55 PM
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As they say "necessity is the mother of invention". Nice work on the drill press Jim!

I'm anxious to see your progress on the brake setup and going to take notes too! I'll be behind you on this phase. I trip over stuff in part of my shop too, isn't that the way it's supposed to be.
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post #748 of 1968 Old 01-18-2011, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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As they say "necessity is the mother of invention". Nice work on the drill press Jim!

I'm anxious to see your progress on the brake setup and going to take notes too! I'll be behind you on this phase. I trip over stuff in part of my shop too, isn't that the way it's supposed to be.
Thanks. Way nicer feeling than spending money on a taller drill-press.
I'll let you know how all of the brake parts go together and shot some pics of everything. I'll also shop for a rod and let you know what I find.
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post #749 of 1968 Old 01-19-2011, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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The verdict is in for the booster brackets

I picked up the used YJ master cylinder/booster/bracket/rod/proportioning valve assembly, took it home, opened it up then measured the spacing for the 4 bolt holes on the booster- both directions- across and down are the same at 3 3/8 inches. This means that the cheap chrome booster that Jim1611 and I bought will bolt right up to the bracket. So it will be a straight forward installation, kind of!

Go for it Jim! Time to go shopping for your YJ style bracket!
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post #750 of 1968 Old 01-19-2011, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Just to be clear on the booster bolt spacing- I've just measured the spacing again and the YJ booster bolt spacing on the bracket- 4 of them- is 3 3/8 inches.

The new booster is advertised as being 3 1/4 inches for the 4 bolts but when I measure it I get 3 3/8, so I think it was a typo on the sale page. Bad for the seller, but good for they buyer!
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