Jim's 85 CJ7 rebuild - Page 228 - JeepForum.com

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post #3406 of 3880 Old 08-25-2014, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
Jim1611
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You Ford guys tell me what you think of this intake on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-93-95-For...c7362e&vxp=mtr
It's a GT40 from a 99 Ford Explorer.

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post #3407 of 3880 Old 08-26-2014, 05:42 AM
HackFabrication
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Is that welded in bung for the IAT sensor? Must be, here's a link to a similar mod: http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=150122

Actually the stock Mustang intake is okay for a stock engine. There are probably a few FRP Cobra intakes out there for sale too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1995-Fo...df016e&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-94-MUSTAN...1f4c34&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Explorer-Cob...9ab07a&vxp=mtr

What size injectors, MAF, TB, heads, and cam are you thinking about running?

"In the end...It's all Hack."
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post #3408 of 3880 Old 08-26-2014, 06:24 AM Thread Starter
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It is a weld in bung. Tig welded they say. I have the stock injectors that came off the engine, it's a 94. My ecm is a 92 and I did that because of what I've read and been told that the 94 and 95 ecm don't work so well if you modify the engine. That being said I may get different injectors since the connections may be different on this harness. I don't have a MAF or TB and might just order something aftermarket there. I have the GT40 3 bar heads. Cam is factory grind but new. Thanks for the links
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post #3409 of 3880 Old 08-26-2014, 06:40 PM
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Looks like the intake on my 1995 Lightning.

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post #3410 of 3880 Old 08-26-2014, 06:56 PM
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Injector connectors will be the same no matter the size of flow rating.

That one that Hack listed that comes with the TB, fuel rails, IAC, injectors and everything else looks a little rough but you could easily clean that up. It would be nice to get all that stuff in one shot.

I know you got the same valve covers as I did but did you also change the rockers or keep them stock? You'll also probably need to get the 1" intake spacer so the throttle linkage will clear the higher valve cover.

Mike
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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #3411 of 3880 Old 08-26-2014, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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I had hoped all of that came with the intake too Mike but he's only selling the upper and lower intake. I did change the rockers to an aftermarket roller rocker. They are Scorpion 1.72 ratio and my factory covers were too short. I was figuring on the spacer, I remember you needing to do that too.
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post #3412 of 3880 Old 08-27-2014, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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The clutch assembly came in today. The bolts lined up between the pressure plate and flywheel and the throw-out bearing fit the clutch fork. I don't have any dowel holes in the flywheel that line up with the pressure plate. I think it would be a good investment in time to set the flywheel up and drill those holes. Might as well be done right.

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post #3413 of 3880 Old 08-28-2014, 03:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
I don't have any dowel holes in the flywheel that line up with the pressure plate. I think it would be a good investment in time to set the flywheel up and drill those holes. Might as well be done right.
I don't think that is necessary. Also might effect the 50oz imbalance necessary for the 5.0L. Besides, might cause additional work if you want to resurface the flywheel at a later time during a clutch replacement.

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post #3414 of 3880 Old 08-28-2014, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HackFabrication
I don't think that is necessary. Also might effect the 50oz imbalance necessary for the 5.0L. Besides, might cause additional work if you want to resurface the flywheel at a later time during a clutch replacement.
I agree with this. I don't believe I've ever seen alignment pins on a clutch before.

Bill

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post #3415 of 3880 Old 08-28-2014, 08:14 AM
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I agree with this. I don't believe I've ever seen alignment pins on a clutch before.

Bill
Mine didn't have those either. Jim, might be a good time to change the pilot bearing while your at it too if you haven't already.
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post #3416 of 3880 Old 08-28-2014, 08:58 AM
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Don't the clutch bolts have a locator shank that acts like a dowel? I have my clutch out right now and seem to remember seeing this

Cheers!
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post #3417 of 3880 Old 08-28-2014, 09:02 AM
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Like this but less dramatic
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Cheers!
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post #3418 of 3880 Old 08-28-2014, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HackFabrication View Post
I don't think that is necessary. Also might effect the 50oz imbalance necessary for the 5.0L. Besides, might cause additional work if you want to resurface the flywheel at a later time during a clutch replacement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
I agree with this. I don't believe I've ever seen alignment pins on a clutch before.

Bill
I've seen some Bill. Allot of the shops used to bring flywheels here for resurfacing and I had to take them out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7ROB View Post
Mine didn't have those either. Jim, might be a good time to change the pilot bearing while your at it too if you haven't already.
Got a new one ready to go it

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadamsnv View Post
Don't the clutch bolts have a locator shank that acts like a dowel? I have my clutch out right now and seem to remember seeing this
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadamsnv View Post
Like this but less dramatic
I looked at the ones that Ford racing sells and they're just a straight grade 8 bolt with a lockwasher.


Called the machine shop to double check and they said there was no need for the dowel pins. One less thing I have to do this way. Thanks guys otherwise I'd likely not have called.
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post #3419 of 3880 Old 08-29-2014, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not convinced that I have the right clutch fork. When I try to fit it and the throw-out bearing in place it does not feel right. It binds up and won't move very far once it is in place. Any thoughts?



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post #3420 of 3880 Old 08-30-2014, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Solved the problem. For one thing it was too long and needed a shorten job done to it.




This area I'm pointing out was too thick. I took about 1/8" off of it and that helped allot.




Scribed the lines 5/8" apart and cut right close to the lines then ground it till it all fit good and beveled the edges for a good weld job.




All welded up, on the back side too.




Welds smoothed out and did a little contouring on the end to give even more clearance between it and the proportioning valve.



Here it will have about 5/16" clearance.



Here there's 1". Problem seems to be solved. Now it needs paint.




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