Jim's 85 CJ7 rebuild - Page 212 - JeepForum.com

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post #3166 of 3880 Old 07-23-2013, 09:57 PM
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Jim, my opinion after owning an 89 Auto hatchback with 3.23 gears and a 93 Standard notchback with 3.73 gears I would save my money and build it stock. The little motors loved to spin and still provided 18 mpg with me drilling them constantly. Sure, pick up another 25-50hp with add-ons but what do you really gain? More wear and tear, maybe 16 mpg and a lighter wallet.


1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #3167 of 3880 Old 07-24-2013, 12:01 AM
mvbrady
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Another .02 cents,
you could use use Crane roller rockers #F3ZE-6529-AB....same as a 93 cobra
TFS-2500100 spring kit..ditch the valve seals in the kit...factory valve seals are better.
and keep the cam stock... for good drivability and idle....the extra power from better flowing heads is totally worth it.

I found out that building up a set of GT 40 is pretty much the same cost of a nice set of used alum. heads
gt 40 heads used...$250
rebuild...$400
roller rockers....$150-200
spring kit...$150
that's $950 for some old cast iron heads....trickflow/edelbrock/ even AFR's go for that....used of course.
just something else to consider.
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post #3168 of 3880 Old 07-26-2013, 06:22 AM
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Mannnn... I'm glad I'm engine ignorant! It will be good to sit and watch you pros build this thing.

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post #3169 of 3880 Old 07-26-2013, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
Jim, my opinion after owning an 89 Auto hatchback with 3.23 gears and a 93 Standard notchback with 3.73 gears I would save my money and build it stock. The little motors loved to spin and still provided 18 mpg with me drilling them constantly. Sure, pick up another 25-50hp with add-ons but what do you really gain? More wear and tear, maybe 16 mpg and a lighter wallet.
It's going to be close to stock. Unless I change my mind I'll put a new factory spec cam back in. Depending on how the cylinders look will decide on the pistons. They stock ones may stay. If they do I think I'll shave a little off the head to bring the compression up to about 9.

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Originally Posted by mvbrady View Post
Another .02 cents,
you could use use Crane roller rockers #F3ZE-6529-AB....same as a 93 cobra
TFS-2500100 spring kit..ditch the valve seals in the kit...factory valve seals are better.
and keep the cam stock... for good drivability and idle....the extra power from better flowing heads is totally worth it.

I found out that building up a set of GT 40 is pretty much the same cost of a nice set of used alum. heads
gt 40 heads used...$250
rebuild...$400
roller rockers....$150-200
spring kit...$150
that's $950 for some old cast iron heads....trickflow/edelbrock/ even AFR's go for that....used of course.
just something else to consider.
Good points on the heads. I got a call from my cousin the other day and was talking to him about the engine. Seems he has a valve grinding machine, I didn't know that, so my valve job will be free. My biggest expense will be the rockers and springs. I can machine the head if it needs it.

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Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Mannnn... I'm glad I'm engine ignorant! It will be good to sit and watch you pros build this thing.
Pros. Well maybe the other guys but not me. Engines are like tooling though Scott and they need to be put togther so evrything fits right and is clean. As far as what to get for the rebuild there's a world of info on these Ford engines so it's just a matter of looking around. Lots of little details to take care of and that's what really matters.
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post #3170 of 3880 Old 07-26-2013, 10:21 AM
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Well, now that we are talking engines, I have to chime in... LQ4!!! None of this mamby pamby ford junk... hehehehe

... I guess I'm gonna have to fix that too…….

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2005 Wrangler X 4.0/6 speed, Dana 30/Ford 8.8--4.88--Eaton E-Lockers, 35" MT/R, Smittybilt bumpers/rockers/winch, SonicFab tire carrier, RE 3.5 springs, Zone 1.25 BL, FullTraction 3 link upper rear, RE super flex lower rears, UCF ultra high skid and lo/pro mount, brown dog mml.

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post #3171 of 3880 Old 07-26-2013, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Well, now that we are talking engines, I have to chime in... LQ4!!! None of this mamby pamby ford junk... hehehehe
You young, wet behind the ears, TJ owner, that's on vacation and harassing an old guy like me about a wimpy engine.
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post #3172 of 3880 Old 07-26-2013, 12:17 PM
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You young, wet behind the ears, TJ owner, that's on vacation and harassing an old guy like me about a wimpy engine.
Where's the "Like" button for your comment, Jim? I'd click it if there was one.
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post #3173 of 3880 Old 08-09-2013, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thinking about the gas tank. Jegs has a tank that measures 20x20x10 and it's a 20 gallon tank. I'm thinking mine could be 26x16x14 and it should hold about the same by the time the angle is made on the bottom and I make a cut out area to clear the back side of the 9" third member. This is no bigger than the stock tank that holds 16 gallons except this will be heavy enough to not need the factory skid. Here's what I'm thinking, just a rough sketch. Anyone ever made a fuel tank? Ideas?

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post #3174 of 3880 Old 08-09-2013, 07:52 PM
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Good thinking Jim, the extra 4 gallons will get you up to 20 years between fill-ups driving around Perry

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #3175 of 3880 Old 08-09-2013, 07:53 PM
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Where's the "Like" button for your comment, Jim? I'd click it if there was one.
Whoa!!!!!!!!!!

Jim's back checking out Jim...wait a minute, you playing favorites???

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post #3176 of 3880 Old 08-09-2013, 08:10 PM
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Jim, I have a 26 gallon tank made by Aero. Is huge and sticks down a little farther than I like, but its nice not looking for a gas station so often. I got it used for a good deal, only reason I have it. It has a heavy duty plate welded to the bottom of the tank as a built-in skid. I think its similar to what you are talking about

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post #3177 of 3880 Old 08-09-2013, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Good thinking Jim, the extra 4 gallons will get you up to 20 years between fill-ups driving around Perry
Nice part of small town area . Besides I'd like to starve all those Arab oil people as much as I can!

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Originally Posted by TKFireman View Post
Jim, I have a 26 gallon tank made by Aero. Is huge and sticks down a little farther than I like, but its nice not looking for a gas station so often. I got it used for a good deal, only reason I have it. It has a heavy duty plate welded to the bottom of the tank as a built-in skid. I think its similar to what you are talking about
That's just what I'm thinking of building. Could you get some rough measurements off of it for me please? Looks heavy duty! Thanks
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post #3178 of 3880 Old 08-09-2013, 08:22 PM
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I can get measurements tomorrow, here is their website, mine doesn't have the in-tank pump option. They want around $450 new for them, got mine for $150 if I remember correctly. The make a 33 gallon for a CJ8 too. I'm sure you can build one yourself better and cheaper, don't trust my welding enough to make one myself.
http://www.aerotanks.com/vehicles/jeep.html

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post #3179 of 3880 Old 08-09-2013, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Went and looked at the Aero website. They look to be well made. $598.00 for the tank with everything. Considering I will have to find a shop to make my bends for me, and it's 40 miles away, then the work to build it....hmmmm I might not make this after all.

Last edited by Jim1611; 08-09-2013 at 08:27 PM. Reason: mistake on the price
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post #3180 of 3880 Old 08-09-2013, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TKFireman View Post
I can get measurements tomorrow, here is their website, mine doesn't have the in-tank pump option. They want around $450 new for them, got mine for $150 if I remember correctly. The make a 33 gallon for a CJ8 too. I'm sure you can build one yourself better and cheaper, don't trust my welding enough to make one myself.
http://www.aerotanks.com/vehicles/jeep.html
Our post must have crossed paths. Your tank looks well made. I think I'll check with them Monday and see if they can move the filler to the other side. I used the YJ tub and didn't move the filler, I'd rather have it on the driver's side.
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