Jim's 85 CJ7 rebuild - Page 147 - JeepForum.com

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post #2191 of 3969 Old 03-10-2012, 08:41 AM
SonicR1
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should have had them powder coat it too while it was there!!! HA, that thing would have NEVER rusted!!!


... I guess I'm gonna have to fix that too…….


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2005 Wrangler X 4.0/6 speed, Dana 30/Ford 8.8--4.88--Eaton E-Lockers, 35" MT/R, Smittybilt bumpers/rockers/winch, SonicFab tire carrier, RE 3.5 springs, Zone 1.25 BL, FullTraction 3 link upper rear, RE super flex lower rears, UCF ultra high skid and lo/pro mount, brown dog mml.


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post #2192 of 3969 Old 03-10-2012, 05:17 PM
Strokin383
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Obviously its not the same thing, but, in the oilfield we paint galvanized tanks all the time and they hold up well for years. We don't scuff, sand or etch them first.

Brandon
'83 CJ7
383 Stroker, TH350, NP208, D30, D44, ARB Air Lockers, 33X12.50 MT, XD Series Spy's, Roll Cage, Corbeau's.
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post #2193 of 3969 Old 03-10-2012, 09:50 PM
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I Think the main thing is that the inside is Galvanized. So, stick to your plan and lightly blast the Scale off while giving the paint something to bite on to and paint as planned.
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post #2194 of 3969 Old 03-14-2012, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
Jim1611
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Here's some more progress on the frame finish.

Here I've went over the entire frame smoothing out any runs, drips or rough places in the galvanized coating and and gave it a good cleaning with mineral spirits and Marine Clean. Then sandblasted the entire thing. I held the nozzle about 20" away from the surface and at about a 45 degree angle to the surface. All that's needed here is to provide something for the primer to grab. It looks like the matt finish you'd see on a stainless steel rifle.




Now it's in primer. I used Omni Au MP170 epoxy primer. Epoxy is recommended by the material I have read and I also called the manufacurer and this is what they said that they had that worked best.




Now for the paint. I ordered a couple of quarts of Bill Hirsh Super Black Chassis Undercarriage Paint for the final finish. Took an entire quart to really cover good. So now we get to see how it holds up after all is said and done.





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post #2195 of 3969 Old 03-14-2012, 05:01 PM
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That's one purdy frame!

1976 CJ5 - 232 I6, MC2100, YJ Booster, Front disc conv, 2.5" BDS, 1" Body Lift, .5" lift Daystar Shackles, 33 x 10.50 BF KM2, Twin Stick

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post #2196 of 3969 Old 03-14-2012, 05:03 PM
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Looks great Jim!

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post #2197 of 3969 Old 03-14-2012, 05:16 PM
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Sweeeeeeeeeeet!

Mike

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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #2198 of 3969 Old 03-14-2012, 05:51 PM
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Nice real nice Jim

Makes you want to put on a clear tub!

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post #2199 of 3969 Old 03-14-2012, 05:55 PM
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Very Very Nice!

Will Watson
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1946 & 49 Dodge Power Wagon, 1953 Dodge M37
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post #2200 of 3969 Old 03-14-2012, 06:04 PM
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomask View Post
Nice real nice Jim

Makes you want to put on a clear tub!
Classic comment, Thomas!! I second that. Very, very nice, Jim.

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post #2201 of 3969 Old 03-14-2012, 08:59 PM
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Awesome Jim! There's nothing better than building on a solid foundation!

'77 CJ7, LS1, NV4500/D300, Ford 8.8, 4" of lift, 33x12.50 BFG ATs...
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post #2202 of 3969 Old 03-14-2012, 10:39 PM
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Nicest frame in the country! Congrats!

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

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post #2203 of 3969 Old 03-15-2012, 12:37 AM
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does this mean we now get to watch the re-build? it does look fanflippingtastic!

1985 CJ-7, fuel injected 258, 2.5" Rubicon Express Extreme Duty Lift, 1" Body lift, Crabtree Shackle Hangers, T-5, Dana 300 w/ 4:1 Teralow kit, Dana 30, AMC 20 w/1 piece axle, 3.73 's with Detroit Truetrac front and rear, riding on 32x11.5x15" Cooper Discoverer STT mud terrains
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post #2204 of 3969 Old 03-15-2012, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
Jim1611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strokin383 View Post
Obviously its not the same thing, but, in the oilfield we paint galvanized tanks all the time and they hold up well for years. We don't scuff, sand or etch them first.
In reading about painting over the galvanized finish you don't need to do the sandblasting if you apply the paint within 24 hours of getting it dipped or a year later. So that's why what you fellows do turns out good. The info I read said that painting during the 1 year time frame requires the most prep and that's where my job fell.

Thanks for all of the kind words my friends. Now I can start putting parts back on. I've got as pile stacked up to blast and paint and hope to get to that Saturday. Hopefully this will be the final assembly.


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post #2205 of 3969 Old 03-15-2012, 09:18 AM
Coiz
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So we'll see a rolling chassis by Sunday?





Mike

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