Jim's 85 CJ7 rebuild - Page 146 - JeepForum.com

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post #2176 of 3880 Old 03-08-2012, 12:00 PM
lucdog
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The frame looks good.

Biotex, I not sure on the YJ body. In Illinois, I'm not overly impressed. This is a 1994 with 137,xxx miles.

Bill

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1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #2177 of 3880 Old 03-08-2012, 12:38 PM
BioTex
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Yeah, well you're not supposed to soak Jeeps in salt water...

Move to the desert like I did!

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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post #2178 of 3880 Old 03-08-2012, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
Jim1611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbc View Post
Frame looks good!
Thanks Shaun.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
Looks great Jim. Can't believe you got that done for 150.00. Around here, if there is even a place, would be 4x that. Should turn a nice shade of "guard rail grey" in no time!
Thanks Paul. These people have great prices and I've been dealing with them for about 4 years now and they are consistent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by W_A_Watson_II View Post
Looks great! Just be sure the cleanup doesn't cause any of the Zinc to be come vapors like when welding it, health hazards ya know.
Good point Will. I don't plan to get it hot enough to cause that and will use a respirator when I grind that rough spot off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thomask View Post
Hey Jim:

That frame turned out cool.

Can't wait to see her getting put back together.

You keep a really neat shop there, too.

Galvanizing a Jeep frame is just another example of the great work you have done in improving what they should have done in the first place.
Thanks! Hey I took the picture to not show my junk that piles up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
You're the man, Jim! We all bust our chops painting our frames, trying to coat the insides, etc., and you end up having the most durable, long lasting frame of all of us.

And all for $150.00! I spent more than that on painting materials, and a ton of labor doing it.

Maybe on my next frame project.....

BTW...what did they do as far as the threaded holes, etc., as far as keeping them clean?

Rich
Thanks Rich. I didn't try to keep the zinc out of the tapped holes. I could have screwed bolts in them though. I'll run a tap through whatever needs it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBeast View Post
Jim, I can't believe I have missed your build until tonight. Skimmed through the whole thing. You have done some very nice work, I am really looking forward to seeing you put it all the way together.

The down side is that I am also neck deep in a build right now and I got several ideas looking at yours that I am now having to talk myself out of!

I really do like how your cage came out though, as well the way you tied it into the frame got me thinking and I actually spun off an idea how to do mine, although it will be a few months until I actually get to do it probably.

The galvanizing will definitely pay off in the long run, it would be silly not to protect all of the hard work you have done on this thing.
Thanks Nick. Looked your thread up. You've been busy!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grewe02 View Post
Jim, I'm pretty sure Coiz used some sort of metal etching material before he painted, I wonder if that would help in your case?

Edit: Take a look at this.... http://www.wermac.org/pdf/paintsteel.pdf


Sounds like you should ask if they water cooled the frame,



I read the first few pages of that link, and it looks like they cover everything you need to know in there. I'd definitely give it a read!
Thanks Andy I'll take a look at that stuff. Mike (Coiz) used PORs product "Metal Ready" before applying the POR15. You can etch it with a mild mixture of muratic acid I believe.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Nice! Can't beat that for $150. I think they charge another $500 to have a new TDK dipped. I'd leave it as is. It makes a great conversation piece. Not many like it.
I am thinking of leaving it as is as an advertising tool. My spring shackle hangers will really stand out against the zinc finish.

I've seen the TDK frames with the galvanized finish. You know it takes less work and prep to have a frame galvanized than painted. It's dipped in hot acid to get the metal ready for the zinc bath and that's it.
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post #2179 of 3880 Old 03-08-2012, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
Good job! Aren't the YJ tubs galvanized? Seems I heard they were dipped from the factory, but honestly I do not know. If they are, they seem to be holding up to being painted.

Maybe you should have chromed it?
Thanks Eric. The YJ tubs aren't hot dipped. They are mechanical galvanized which isn't as durable of a finish as hot dipped. The hot dip method starts with a bath in an acid tank that's a little over 800 degrees, that would warp body panels. Also the hot dip method opens the pours of the metal and the zinc actually goes below the surface of the metal, mechanical galvanizing dosn't do that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
The frame looks good.

Biotex, I not sure on the YJ body. In Illinois, I'm not overly impressed. This is a 1994 with 137,xxx miles.

Bill
Thanks Bill.
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post #2180 of 3880 Old 03-08-2012, 08:01 PM
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The frame looks great Jim but I think I would still be inclined to top coat it. I don't think the galvinized color would match well with your OD green.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #2181 of 3880 Old 03-09-2012, 04:48 AM
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Jim,
I have thought about the topcoat situation, and I also feel that the galvanized look would cheapen your project (looks wise).

Think about two boat trailers side by side. One painted, one galvanized.
Which one in your mind makes you think it cost more?

If it were me, I would top coat it, and so what if it peels or scratches or whatever. It is too easy to rattle can for touch up once a year or so.

Wonder if you were to slightly etch with steel wool or a scotchbrite pad, if it would allow a paintable surface? Or, rubberized undercoat paint?

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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post #2182 of 3880 Old 03-09-2012, 06:23 AM
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Good analogy on the boat trailer comparisson.
I think I like the rubberrized undercoating the best. This is what I used under the tub and in the wheel wells of my pretty Jeep.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #2183 of 3880 Old 03-09-2012, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Okay I'll paint over it. That was the original plan anyway, I was just trying to cut corners.

I've got allot of info on painting over galvanized metal. There's still things on the coating that will need to be cleaned off, same as painting anything else. I'm not going to sand anymore than I have to though. The best process I've found is to sweep blast the surface. You sandblast at a reduced pressure and further away from the surface and at an angle of about 45 degrees. This gives the paint something to grab to and it also helps release chemicals just under the surface that can cause fish-eye. I've alread got the frame paint to use and the epoxy primer. We'll see how it turns out.
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post #2184 of 3880 Old 03-09-2012, 10:03 AM
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My thinking is that with a rubberized undercoat, it resists chipping so well because it bonds to it'self more than the surface.

Good idea on the sandblast though I believe I would still go rubberized. Just my thoughts.

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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post #2185 of 3880 Old 03-09-2012, 10:09 AM
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Jim my thoughts would be to paint it as well. I like the boat trailer analogy..

Under A Sun Thats See It All Before...
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post #2186 of 3880 Old 03-09-2012, 10:15 AM
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Okay I'll paint over it. That was the original plan anyway, I was just trying to cut corners.
Whaaaatttt? Say it ain't so Jim.

'84 CJ-7 | REBUILD IN PROGRESS
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post #2187 of 3880 Old 03-09-2012, 10:30 AM
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I'd clear-coat it... But I like shiney bling!
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post #2188 of 3880 Old 03-09-2012, 10:31 AM
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Paint it hammertone gray, the texture will really add to it.

The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (the 4 year saga....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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post #2189 of 3880 Old 03-09-2012, 06:36 PM
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WOW! this thread is like a novel.it took me 3 weeks,off and on,to read to this point.enjoyed it all-vacations,deer stands,guns,wild weather,and jeeps! I originally started reading because you're using a 5.0,as i am planning to do in my 87.i can't wait to see the pony power bolted in!Also it's nice to see another ozarkian on J.F. Keep up the good works!

"Is that you John Wayne?...Is this me?" - Full metal Jacket
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post #2190 of 3880 Old 03-10-2012, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
My thinking is that with a rubberized undercoat, it resists chipping so well because it bonds to it'self more than the surface.

Good idea on the sandblast though I believe I would still go rubberized. Just my thoughts.
I have thought about some kind of rubberized coating too but after reading quite a bit about doing this it seems frame paint is the way to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC View Post
Jim my thoughts would be to paint it as well. I like the boat trailer analogy..
Thanks Moc
Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
Whaaaatttt? Say it ain't so Jim.
It's so Paul.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepsterjc View Post
I'd clear-coat it... But I like shiney bling!
Jim have you been hibernating? I'm waiting on you to get busy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Paint it hammertone gray, the texture will really add to it.
That would look great!

Quote:
Originally Posted by redneck_vb View Post
WOW! this thread is like a novel.it took me 3 weeks,off and on,to read to this point.enjoyed it all-vacations,deer stands,guns,wild weather,and jeeps! I originally started reading because you're using a 5.0,as i am planning to do in my 87.i can't wait to see the pony power bolted in!Also it's nice to see another ozarkian on J.F. Keep up the good works!
Thanks for taking the time to read through it! It's been more like one of those mini series .

There were some threads on here when I started that the fellows were using the 5.0 and that's what got me interested in watching theirs so I know what you mean.

I live in the northeastern part of the state. My wife and I came back through your area last June on our way home. Turned off of hwy. 65 onto 14. Takes longer but it was a nice drive. If you're ever up this way give me a holler.
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