Jim's 85 CJ7 rebuild - Page 138 - JeepForum.com

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post #2056 of 3880 Old 01-13-2012, 10:08 AM
BioTex
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I'm not sure about those gussets Jatepper! I feel that if you make the bumpers too strong, you hit a rock and end up tweaking the frame instead of just bending the end of your bumper.

I like the bumper to be the weak link so to speak!


'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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post #2057 of 3880 Old 01-13-2012, 10:20 AM
jatepper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
I'm not sure about those gussets Jatepper! I feel that if you make the bumpers too strong, you hit a rock and end up tweaking the frame instead of just bending the end of your bumper.

I like the bumper to be the weak link so to speak!
Yeah....maybe. I just say this because pretty much all of the "frame tie-in kits" I have seen have the gusset welded on. May be a little overkill, but I like overkill. I don't think it would tweak the frame, but I'm surely no engineer

1986 CJ7 Laredo - Auto 14k miles
1985 CJ7 Renegade - Auto 33k miles
1982 CJ8 Scrambler - T5 T-SPD
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post #2058 of 3880 Old 01-13-2012, 06:01 PM
cjdogtoy
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nice work Jim, at the rate your going your going to be spending more time fabbing parts for us than working on you own cj.
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post #2059 of 3880 Old 01-18-2012, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
Jim1611
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Thanks for the comments guys. I did a little more on the crossmember the other day but couldn't get anything posted due to all this trouble with my computer. Think I finnaly have that fixed now.


I welded the braces in solid. Haven't added a gusste yet though since it looked like it might be in the way of welding the crossmember to the frame.



I found a place in the frame where I could get my 6" scale into. Apparently AMC didn't get it welded there, that seems to be common. So I welded that shut while I welded the crossmember on.



Welded all I could from the top. I'll turn the frame over later on and weld the bottom.
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post #2060 of 3880 Old 01-18-2012, 12:37 PM
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I love checking your thread!!! All the fab work is great!!! I just sent MVigo a text while I was checking your thread, and he said he just got off the phone with you… small world!!! Hope all is well!!!

... I guess I'm gonna have to fix that too…….

The TJ
2005 Wrangler X 4.0/6 speed, Dana 30/Ford 8.8--4.88--Eaton E-Lockers, 35" MT/R, Smittybilt bumpers/rockers/winch, SonicFab tire carrier, RE 3.5 springs, Zone 1.25 BL, FullTraction 3 link upper rear, RE super flex lower rears, UCF ultra high skid and lo/pro mount, brown dog mml.

1974 CJ5 BUILD THREAD
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post #2061 of 3880 Old 01-18-2012, 01:18 PM
BioTex
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Real men can weld upside down!

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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post #2062 of 3880 Old 01-18-2012, 03:15 PM
Skerr
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Real men can weld upside down!

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #2063 of 3880 Old 01-18-2012, 03:26 PM
tractor1
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Quote:
Real men can weld upside down!
But the smart ones have the right tools to turn things over!

1979 CJ5 304 T150 Dana 20 under construction
1993 Wrangler 4.0 HO AX15 231 4” lift 33 12.5 15 DD
1994 Wrangler 2.5 AX5 231 Stock Sold
1973 Cj5 304 T15 Dana20 Sold


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post #2064 of 3880 Old 01-18-2012, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SonicR1 View Post
I love checking your thread!!! All the fab work is great!!! I just sent MVigo a text while I was checking your thread, and he said he just got off the phone with you… small world!!! Hope all is well!!!
Thanks Bill! As I've said this is my favorite work to do. Yep Mike called me today. We always have great talks.

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Real men can weld upside down!
Well Eric after a guy turns 50 he no longer relies on those special talents. He uses wisdom

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Oh be quiet you're older than me.

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But the smart ones have the right tools to turn things over!
Yep a 50 year old forklift.
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post #2065 of 3880 Old 01-18-2012, 07:52 PM
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a 50 year old fork lift and the shop space to move it around, I'm always so jealous when I see your work and shop. keep up the good work thats the beefiest cross member I've ever seen.
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post #2066 of 3880 Old 01-19-2012, 12:27 PM
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Jim, you may come over and find me welding in shorts and/or flip flops, sometimes at the same time but I *do* wear gloves, can't be too safe
Man I did that last summer Dave and boy did I get a sunburn on the inside of my knees and shins. woohee it was sore for days.
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post #2067 of 3880 Old 01-19-2012, 09:45 PM
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Man I did that last summer Dave and boy did I get a sunburn on the inside of my knees and shins. woohee it was sore for days.
I had my daughter come out and give me a hand holding some thing while I tacked it in place, I told her to put shoes on but she didn't want to waste the time and a piece of slag burned it's way into her foot about 3/16 of an inch now when I ask her for help she comes out in her steal toe motorcycle boots.
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post #2068 of 3880 Old 01-21-2012, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thought I'd switch gears for a Saturday and work on the tub. The first step before doing any grinding or sanding on the metal was to clean it with wax and grease remover.



Here's what I'm dealing with. The panel was damaged at some point in a wreck and pushed back. That stretched the metal in that area and no amount of hammering was going to flatten things out since it would just spring right back out. As you can see by me holding the square along the edge there's a pretty good bulge. That continues to the bottom of the panel but is worse close to the top.



The black line shows the highest point. That's where I'm going to start working first. I've never tried shrinking metal but have read about it and that's what will have to be done to correct this. You can shrink panels like this in three ways. One way is to use a hammer and dolly that is made for that, the face of one or the other looks like a meat tenderiser. I don't have one of those. You can also use a special disc on a hand grinder that by the friction of the disc it heats the metal, don't have that either. Or you can use a torch to heat small areas. That was my method. I started by getting all of the paint off the surface so I could see what's going on. I heated small areas red hot then cooled that area with a wet shop rag. After going the length of the line I checked again with my straight edge and used a hammer and dolly to flatten it. That helped a great deal. I ended up working up and down an area about 6" wide to get what I needed.



As you can see it made a big improvement. Now it's flat enough that filler will take care of what's left.



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post #2069 of 3880 Old 01-21-2012, 05:17 PM
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Master Lim... You velly good. Do good wok. Maybe nex time we hep. Velly good.

Grasshopper

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #2070 of 3880 Old 01-21-2012, 05:19 PM
243
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Nothing wrong with old school old man

Switching gears sure helps staying motivated!

DANG, Scott beat me................

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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