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Unread 01-07-2013, 04:39 PM   #121
Jester77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spward View Post
However, I am more than willing to research it tonight when I get home for you and see where they go.
Would greatly appreciate any help on the actual hook up of these lines.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
That's a sexy valve cover Jester. Jeeps looks good too, Bud.
Thanks Kerrdog! I'll whip this beast into shape even if it kills me.

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[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/jesters-texas-yeti-1985-cj7-redo-1437284/"]My 1985 CJ-7 Build Thread[/URL]
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[I]"4 wheeling past the third standard deviation from the mean."[/I]
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Unread 01-07-2013, 05:08 PM   #122
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/re...36/index3.html

Post 31 the whole thread is a blur LOL but there are some good pics.
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Unread 01-07-2013, 05:46 PM   #123
Jester77
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Good info, Danke!
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[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/jesters-texas-yeti-1985-cj7-redo-1437284/"]My 1985 CJ-7 Build Thread[/URL]
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[I]"4 wheeling past the third standard deviation from the mean."[/I]
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Unread 01-07-2013, 07:32 PM   #124
stamp32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roboto65
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/re...36/index3.html

Post 31 the whole thread is a blur LOL but there are some good pics.
I would tread lightly in that thread...it is a little hostile in there. I would read up on the charcoal canister before asking what would be harmless questions.
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Unread 01-07-2013, 08:36 PM   #125
Crazyray2929
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I used a Neoprene gasket for my valve cover...No mess, just slap it on and tighten down...Been on there almost 2 years and no leaks.
Nice choice on the wheels...
What did you torque your u-bolts to?
What kinds carb do you have?
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Unread 01-07-2013, 08:40 PM   #126
spward
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Here is the one for the carb bowl


Distributor vacuum (looks to be 6 connections, but haven't traced them back to the source)


PCV Valve (Throttle cable to the left of it)



Worst case, you can always drive over and look at them at take more pictures. Just let me know as I am up in The Colony.
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Unread 01-07-2013, 08:45 PM   #127
roboto65
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Quote:
I would tread lightly in that thread...it is a little hostile in there. I would read up on the charcoal canister before asking what would be harmless questions.
Ahhh Matts harmless LOL it hard to convey emotions when typing and some take things the wrong way one side to the other. Take things with a grain on the internet and we would all live in peace
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Unread 01-10-2013, 02:56 PM   #128
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Here is another thread for the canister
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ch...95/index2.html
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Unread 01-10-2013, 09:24 PM   #129
Jester77
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That's an awesome thread, thanks Spward!
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[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/jesters-texas-yeti-1985-cj7-redo-1437284/"]My 1985 CJ-7 Build Thread[/URL]
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[I]"4 wheeling past the third standard deviation from the mean."[/I]
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Unread 03-08-2013, 08:02 PM   #130
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Been away for a while...

I took a full load (16 hours) last semester and worked full time at the same time and that took away 100% of my Jeep time. But I cut back this session and will have some time to work on the Yeti. I'm going to try and get it finished by the end of May.

I've been slowly working on doing the Blazer motor upgrade and am prepping those pictures to post. I'm not completely done with it yet, but I'm getting there. I'll post those pics as soon as I get the heater assembly in place.

In the meantime, I ordered a dash from Double D Fabrication. I just got it back from the powder coaters and I can safely say that I'm very pleased with the quality all around. I've taken some preliminary pictures just to see what it is going to look like with the new Auto Meter Phantom II gauges in it. Here's what I have...

I had my logo cut out where the speaker grills will go. I just ordered a pair of Alpine SPR-50's for the dash. I haven't decided if I'm going to install black mesh (probably will) behind the logo to keep debris and dirt out of the speaker. I'm experimenting with LEDs right now and I will probably back light the logo with a LED or multiples...

yeti98.jpg

Hard to tell in this shot but I have little feet cut out above where the steering column is. I'll back light those with green LEDs and use them for the turn signal indicators.

yeti99.jpg

I think these particular Auto Meter gauges look sweet against that black textured powder coating. I'm glad I went with the flat textured black on the dash. It will help reduce glare on those sunny Texas summer days with the top off. I couldn't resist just placing a few of those meters in the dash just to see how it was going to look.

yeti100.jpg

Dan's quality of work is outstanding. I also had him install a metal glove box as well. I'm really happy the way all this turned out so far. Can't wait to get back into the swing of things and get this dash all wired up and working. It's going to be a chore but it will be fun as well.

yeti101.jpg
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[I]"4 wheeling past the third standard deviation from the mean."[/I]
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Unread 03-08-2013, 09:36 PM   #131
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That is a Sweet dash would love to see that in person. Might even be in the area around the end of March.
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Unread 03-08-2013, 11:11 PM   #132
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Looks great!
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Unread 03-09-2013, 04:15 AM   #133
Jester77
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That is a Sweet dash would love to see that in person. Might even be in the area around the end of March.
Drop me a PM when you get close. I'm taking the last week of March off to try and finish and should be around.
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Unread 03-09-2013, 05:11 AM   #134
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Will do should be there the 26th or so for the week also going to help another friend out LOL he lives in Seagoville.
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Unread 03-09-2013, 05:30 AM   #135
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The heater box rebuild

I ordered a bunch of different types of foam from McMaster-Carr and bought some foam sheets from Hobby Lobby to experiment with. For the panels inside the heater box, I used Fire-Retardant Super-Cushioning Foam (1/4" thick). This temperature range on this particular foam is rated from -40° to +225° F. You can get this foam with an adhesive back, but the adhesive is only good up to 180° F. I bought a one foot long piece that was 54" wide, just in case I need to use it on another project. It was real easy to work with and you can cut it with scissors with no problem.

yeti102.jpg


yeti103.jpg


yeti104.jpg


I also installed a couple of polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) washers just to ensure smooth operation of the flap.
yeti105.jpg


I've been looking for a piece of dense foam to make foam gaskets out of. For 99 cents, I found sheets of this "Silly Winks" material at Hobby Lobby. You can also get similar material from Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft or Michaels. I was unsure if this stuff would work, but for 99 cents a sheet, it was worth a try. Since this was going on the heater box, I wanted to know if it was flame retardant or would melt around hot material. I broke out the heat gun and held it about four inches from this material for 15 minutes at 250° F. It did not fall apart or melt (like I thought it would), so I decided to give it a try. I bought various widths, but decided 3mm was just about the right thickness. Also, this stuff cuts well with a good pair of scissors, very easy to work with.
yeti108.jpg


yeti106.jpg


yeti107.jpg


yeti107a.jpg


This foam gasket has seen better days. I tired to trace a good pattern off these pieces onto the new material.
yeti109.jpg


It's not bad for a first try, but I think I will give this another go before I put it all back together.
yeti110.jpg
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[I]"4 wheeling past the third standard deviation from the mean."[/I]
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