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Unread 03-09-2013, 05:49 AM   #136
Jester77
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I wrapped the new heater core with the same 1/4" Flame Retardant Foam.
yeti111.jpg


For the heater motor firewall seal and the heater core tube seal, I went back to McMaster-Carr and ordered a 12" x 12" piece of High-Temperature Chemical-Resistant Nylon Foam (3/8" thick). The temperature range is from -40 to +400 F, so I should be fine there. This material is dense/hard. I cut the holes with a hole saw on the drill press and cut the rest of it out with an Exacto knife.
yeti112.jpg


yeti113.jpg

I used NAPA Part # 655-1039 for the new heater motor.
yeti114.jpg


I used Liquid Nails (Clear 100% Silicone Adhesive) to attach the foam to all the parts and let it set for 24 hours.
yeti115.jpg

Actually, it is going to set for longer than 24-hours. I am getting ready to go to Colorado to play in the snow for a week and will finish this up when I get back.

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Unread 03-09-2013, 07:00 PM   #137
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Your dashboard looks real good!
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Unread 03-17-2013, 05:09 PM   #138
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Finally got around to putting the heater box back together today. I used a bead of black RTV to seal the two pieces together. I think it turned out okay. Time will tell once I get it put back in the Yeti. Here are a few shots of the finished product.

yeti116.jpg

yeti117.jpg

I put a black teflon washer in between these metal pieces....smoooooth sailing.
yeti118.jpg

I am really happy the way the home made gasket turned out. I will get this put back in the jeep just in time for summer!
yeti119.jpg
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Last edited by Jester77; 03-17-2013 at 09:58 PM.. Reason: Updated a picture in this post
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Unread 03-17-2013, 05:47 PM   #139
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But before I can put the rebuilt heater assembly back in the Jeep, I need to make the hole bigger so the new Blazer motor will fit. But before I do that, I need to clean up the firewall area. I ordered a new front passenger fender a couple of days ago so I decided to remove the old one and take advantage of the easy access to the firewall. The tub is in good shape, it just has some surface rust where an old battery leaked.

yeti120.jpg

Nothing that a grinder and a wire disk wheel won't cure.
yeti121.jpg

I took advantage and cleaned up some spots on the frame. I shot a fresh coat of black paint on it after I cleaned it up.
yeti122.jpg

Ready for some primer.
yeti123.jpg


Primed and as good as new. I bought some spray in bed liner that I'm going to spray on this area to protect it after the primer dries. I think I'll let this sit until tomorrow.
yeti124.jpg
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Unread 03-17-2013, 09:50 PM   #140
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Nice work! I just ripped out my 86's plastic ductwork last week and threw it into a heap for the trashman. Now I'm committed to custom fab'n something . Yours looks good, top notch restore.
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Unread 03-18-2013, 10:15 AM   #141
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I bought a can of Dupli-Color Spray-in Bed Liner to dress up the firewall area that I cleaned up. I do not think I would like to use this method to spray the bed of a truck or tub. Although the product is good, it will run on you quick if you are not careful and VERY patient. The directions say to lightly spray 3-4 coats. They are not lying. If you try and cover your area with one or two passes, you are in trouble. This product is water-based and will definitely run on you real quick. Next time, I think I might try the roll on version.
yeti125.jpg

This was after approximately four light coats. I am very happy the way this turned out and to the touch, this stuff seems to be very tough. Time will tell, but at least this part of the firewall is better than it was before. I would like to do the entire firewall this way....maybe another project for another day.
yeti126.jpg
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Unread 03-18-2013, 03:20 PM   #142
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I got the heater box assembly mounted. It fits like a glove.
yeti127.jpg

Hook up the cables and the duct-work, this baby is done.
yeti128.jpg

I am way happy the way this turned out. Just enough clearance to mount the battery tray.
yeti129.jpg

Does anyone know what these two brackets are for? I have always wondered. When I removed the original battery tray, there were two screws in these but nothing more.
yeti130.jpg
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Unread 03-18-2013, 03:27 PM   #143
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If I remember right, they were for some king of plug or socket that had a yellow rubber boot associated with it. I pulled my harness out a while back, so I'll have to dig it out to see. May have been diagnostic ports or emissions related. I never used them for anything.
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Unread 03-18-2013, 06:06 PM   #144
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Something like this

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Unread 03-18-2013, 06:38 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jester77 View Post
Does anyone know what these two brackets are for? I have always wondered.
Your work is looking great. Great photos too.

I'm a bit late to weigh on on this, but those brackets are for mounting the diagnostic connector for the feedback carburetor system. The system was very simple: On many of the circuits, a wire was run from the main wiring harness over to the diagnostic connector. Then you could take a reading from any circuit to figure out what that particular sensor (vaccum pressure, temperature, etc) was reading. There may have been some leads from the ECU as well. I suppose that AMC sold some kind of device to mechanics that would plug in there and show you some details about what was going on.

On an 83 to 86 CJs where the original feedback carburetor has been replaced, you can do away with the ECU and much of the associated wiring, hoses, and sensors. So along with that goes the diagnostic connector too.
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Unread 03-18-2013, 09:41 PM   #146
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Scott, thanks for the pic.

Ken, I appreciate the information. Sounds like a very handy interface if you have the right connector/computer to read the sensors. I guess I will not be needing the diagnostic connector anytime soon. This area looks like a good candidate to install a terminal block for auxiliary lights and accessories. The PO had replaced the original Carter Carb with a remanufactured Holley one, and tried--no succeeded--in hacking up the wiring system. When I removed the heater assembly, I removed the ECU. I will not be putting it back in the Jeep as I am getting ready to install a new Motorcraft 2150 and Nutter it. Might as well since I have it all torn apart. I will start that after I get the dash rewired and put back into the Yeti.
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Unread 03-20-2013, 06:50 AM   #147
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DD's Custom Dash Install

Now that I've got the heater assembly rebuilt and installed, it is time to turn my attention to the dash. I had DD Fabrication create a custom dash for the Yeti and then had it powder coated with a black texture. I purchased some Auto Meter Phantom II gauges. They are going to stand out and contrast nicely with the new dash.

Installing the speedometer and the tachometer seem to be fairly straight forward. The installed bevels are just a bit deeper than the depth of the speedo and tach. Perfect!
yeti131.jpg

These gauges are designed to be installed in a flat panel and come with a plastic shroud that surrounds the back of the instrument and secures it to the panel. One shroud comes with each gauge, however these will not work in this application as you can see. I could have modified these plastic shrouds on the bandsaw but I would rather have a piece of metal holding these in place than a piece of plastic.
yeti132.jpg

I need to fabricate a bracket to secure the back of the instrument to the bevel. The diameter of the opening is just under 3.5". I will need to make the bracket just a tad longer to hold the gauge in place.
yeti133.jpg

I went to Homer Depot to pick up a 1/2" strip of aluminum. I did not want to use steel because it would rust over time and I did not feel like painting these pieces or getting them powder coated. Homer Depot was out, so a quick trip to Lowe's and they had what I needed. I wanted 1/2" because anything larger would have been too wide.
yeti134.jpg

I cut two pieces to length (speedo and tach are the 3 3/8" size) and transferred the pattern from the shroud to the aluminum.
yeti137.jpg

A quick trip to the grinding station to remove the burs...
yeti135.jpg

...and to finish up with the wire wheel to smooth it all out.
yeti136.jpg

Fits like a glove.
yeti138.jpg

A couple of external tooth lock washers...
yeti139.jpg

...and we are G2G!
yeti140.jpg

I am ready to tackle the other gauges.
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Unread 03-20-2013, 08:39 AM   #148
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The smaller gauges pose a larger problem in regards to mounting. The back of the gauges stick out way too far to fab just a simple flat bracket.
yeti146.jpg

I cannot use the plastic bezel that came with the gauges either because of its length.
yeti147.jpg

I was thinking that I might have to fab some sort of metal bracket out of aluminum for the back instead of these flat brackets. As I am walking though Home Depot, I spot some 2" PVC pipe out of the corner of my eye. Then the little mice started running on the wheel in my head. So I bought a piece of the 2" PVC pipe and came home and cut it to the proper lengths.
yeti141.jpg

Since the smaller gauges are 2 1/16" in diameter, the 2" PCV pipe fit perfectly.
yeti142.jpg

I did not have to cut the clock's addition as long as the other gauges because it did not have a bunch of terminal connectors sticking out the back of it.
yeti143.jpg

With all the pieces of pipe cut to the proper lengths and installed, we are ready to wire this beast up.
yeti144.jpg

The semi-finished product.
yeti145.jpg

Well, it may look stupid but it works. This is what I am going with for now. I may change my mind later, but the PVC should be easy to modify in case I need to do so. I may end up trimming up the plastic shrouds the gauges came with from the factory on the bandsaw. I did a quick fit check to see of there was enough room to mount this contraption. It is going to be very close as the Water Temp and Oil Pressure gauges come real close to the heater duct-work. I have plenty of clearance for the other gauges.
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Unread 03-20-2013, 08:53 AM   #149
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No one is ever going to look "behind" your dash unless they are the next owner and are re-doing the Jeep many many many years from now... and at that point, you won't care

I think it is a great solution to the problem.
I was thinking you could cut down the plastic housing and re-fuse it together, or make some connectors to adjust the height, but your solution requires less cutting and recreating.

cb

PS> I am going to yank my heater box this weekend and cut the hole larger, etc. etc. just like what you did... your foam is a good idea, I will see how mine looks inside.
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Unread 03-20-2013, 10:13 AM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by certifiablejeep View Post
PS> I am going to yank my heater box this weekend and cut the hole larger, etc. etc. just like what you did... your foam is a good idea, I will see how mine looks inside.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.

If you pull your heater box, I would like to make one suggestion to you and anybody else that is going to do the Blazer motor upgrade, put a couple of teflon washers in between the flap posts and the metal piece that covers the entire heater assembly. I circled the two areas where I'd put the washer. I did not do this when I had mine apart and wish I had. There would be much less friction and the flaps would move much easier without rubbing up against the metal plate.

heater.jpg
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