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Unread 03-28-2008, 10:36 AM   #1
JFlanny11
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JeepHammer - Grounding Diagrams

Hey Guys,

A while back I was reading a thread about Grounding Issues in Jeeps. JeepHammer had posted a few diagrams on what proper grounding should look like. I just cant seam to find the original thread. If anyone has seen this thread or has saved the documents can you please post them back up or send a link to the thread.

Thanks in advance

Josh

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Unread 03-28-2008, 10:43 AM   #2
luckycheesehead
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He might have it on his website...

http://www.junkyardgenius.com/toc.html
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Unread 03-28-2008, 11:20 AM   #3
JFlanny11
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I could not Find them on his website.
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Unread 03-28-2008, 01:39 PM   #4
JFlanny11
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...hlight=grounds

Found it...Thanks Guys
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Unread 03-28-2008, 04:08 PM   #5
ctm
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also look at this diagram, it is from JYG or hammer , I can't find the original thread, but I have the diagram that shows an extra ground for the distributor. I did this and it makes a big difference.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Unread 03-28-2008, 06:35 PM   #6
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctm View Post
also look at this diagram, it is from JYG or hammer , I can't find the original thread, but I have the diagram that shows an extra ground for the distributor. I did this and it makes a big difference.

[IMG][/IMG]
Grounds are something that are overlooked so much you simply wouldn't believe it!

This is absolutely true.
AMC (and most other vehicle manufacturers) wouldn't pay the extra $6 per vehicle to have dedicated grounds added to the wiring harnesses.

Chevy stated that it took an extra $6 per vehicle harness to add dedicated grounds for the military in 1983, and since all vehicle harnesses cost about the same amount...

As long as your vehicle lived through the warranty period (usually 12 months/12,000 miles to 36 months/36,000 miles)
Not having dedicated grounds wasn't an issue, and the company saved $6 per unit.

After the warranty period, any electrical problems were pretty well known to the dealership mechanics, so any electrical issues the owner had were money in the bank for the dealership.

If you got fed up after the warranty period, you would buy a new vehicle to get away from the problems...
This too was money in the bank for the dealerships.

Military vehicles required dedicated grounds for most accessories, even in fleet vehicles (non-combat rated vehicles that usually had much more extensive modifications) since they would be used long after the average warranty was expired...
--------------------------


If you pay attention to the diagrams I've posted, not only do I run a battery cable to the starter to ground it directly from the battery,
But I run a heavy wire to a grounding post on the fender, and run dedicated grounds from that...





Since the ignition produces between 20,000 volts and 45,000 volts, it needs a good ground, or your ignition coil will heat up and cook it's self...
A simple 12 Ga. dedicated wire to the head(s) will make sure your ignition spark energies have a good ground...
Run it off the grounding post on the fender.

That same ground can be run over to the ignition module and give the module a dedicated ground.
Costs you nothing but a connector and a little time, and gives your ignition module a new lease on life, and gives you faster, cleaner switching for the ignition coil, and that will result in more usable spark energy....

Since your alternator has a dedicated 12 volt, 10 gauge positive wire,
AND,
Since every electron your vehicle uses is produced by that same alternator,
WHY NOT GIVE IT A DEDICATED GROUND?
Only takes a short run of 10 Ga. wire from the grounding post to the alternator case, and no more alternator problems from bad grounds!

Your dedicated grounds should include, but not limited to,
1. The dash, so your gauges and wipers work since they are grounded there,

2. The tub, so your appliances work,

3. The grill shell, so your head lights/turn lights work,

4. Rear lights, tail, brake, turn, plate, backup, ect. should have a dedicated ground.

5. Fuel tank, so the sending unit works correctly.

6. The engine block, and in particular, the head(s) so the high voltage from the ignition has a clear path to ground,

7. The ignition module, so it doesn't have to fight for ground through the distributor housing.

8. The STARTER should have it's own dedicated ground cable that attaches directly to the starter housing!
This is the highest amp load your vehicle is going to have, so DON'T TORTURE THE CURRENT PATH!

9. The alternator. Since every electron your vehicle uses is produced in the alternator, you REALLY need a dedicated ground for it!

10. In my case, the electric radiator fan, electric fuel pump and a half dozen other things like air compressor,
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Unread 03-28-2008, 08:28 PM   #7
ctm
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Hammer, not to hijack the original post but I was hoping you would add in your thoughts on grounds so that everyone could read them again....thank you for doing so...this information is invaluable.
I have seen too many postings including my own regarding YJs with 'ghosts', just cutting out randomly, mine was solved with the addition of the distributor ground and now it runs pure. I for one have printed out your list of grounds and I am going to add them all in.
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Unread 10-11-2011, 09:45 AM   #8
shelbyle
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I am new to grounds and do not really understand what they are doing. I would like to add some or all of Jeep Hammers suggested grounds but I do not know what to connect to what to make the ground. Do I connect all of the items listed above to the negative terminal or the suggested brass bolt?

Confused here... I apologize, but Im knew to electronics as related to Jeep wiring.
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Unread 10-11-2011, 10:30 AM   #9
mopar346
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Great info, thanks for sharing.
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Unread 10-11-2011, 11:20 AM   #10
CSP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shelbyle View Post
I am new to grounds and do not really understand what they are doing. I would like to add some or all of Jeep Hammers suggested grounds but I do not know what to connect to what to make the ground. Do I connect all of the items listed above to the negative terminal or the suggested brass bolt?

Confused here... I apologize, but Im knew to electronics as related to Jeep wiring.
Any piece of steel connected to another piece of steel which indirectly is connected to the negative battery post is in effect a ground.

It's a path for electricity back to the negative side of the battery. The better the path, the fewer the problems you'll have, electrically speaking. If you have a relay with the ground wire connected to the drivers side fender, and the fender is connected well to the tub, and the tub has a wire going to the negative battery post, you have a path for electricity to follow. Now, if your drivers side fender has a 10ga wire connected to the negative post, it has a more direct and better path to follow with less resistance. Less resistance means better performance from the part.

You can't have too many paths back to negative, though there are points of diminishing returns. The only rule is that positive and negative can never touch, directly or indirectly.
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Unread 10-11-2011, 01:35 PM   #11
Erik719
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I recently did this "upgrade" to my Jeep; also grounded the electric choke, alternator and distributor (still need to get the headlights and turn signals wired in). What a HUGE improvement! The Jeep idles better, runs smoother and stoped running on after I shut it off. I highly recommend this mod.

I'm working on dedicated grounds from the dash panel and all the "inside stuff".
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Unread 10-16-2011, 01:43 PM   #12
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Would love to see a picture or two of the grounding bolt/bus that you are all using for these dedicated grounds. I'm starting to work on this and want to ensure that my wiring stays clean. With such an abundance of grounds coming to one place, I'm just wondering what the end result looks like. Thanks......
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Unread 10-16-2011, 05:47 PM   #13
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Subscribed. I'm going to have to grab some of the 6 gauge ground wire from work for this.
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Unread 11-24-2013, 04:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJNewbs View Post
Would love to see a picture or two of the grounding bolt/bus that you are all using for these dedicated grounds. I'm starting to work on this and want to ensure that my wiring stays clean. With such an abundance of grounds coming to one place, I'm just wondering what the end result looks like. Thanks......
Pick a spot under the battery tray and don't worry about what it looks like.

Worrying about how things look is for 'Barbie'.
Worrying about how they function is for Men, Off Roaders, people who hate walking to get a tow...

I actually use the bottom of the battery tray now, there is a stud that sticks down, and it works well for the grounding post...
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Unread 11-24-2013, 04:15 PM   #15
swatson454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJNewbs View Post
Would love to see a picture or two of the grounding bolt/bus that you are all using for these dedicated grounds. I'm starting to work on this and want to ensure that my wiring stays clean. With such an abundance of grounds coming to one place, I'm just wondering what the end result looks like. Thanks......
Here's mine. When it was all said and done, I wish I'd done a cleaner install. I just kept it in a serviceable spot but it wasn't the best looking thing. There are some guys on here with some pretty sweet installs.

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