Bear with me and let me tell you where I'm at. The motor is an all stock 1979 304. It quit while driving around the campground a few weeks ago and couldn't get it started so we pushed it back to the campsite and later got it started again. Restarted it again at some point later and went out into the dunes. I couldn't tell if it was really running rougher than normal or missing a bunch but it did seem lower in power just getting back into the dunes. It quit on me a half hour or so later but the idle is kinda low and that would not be odd in itself if you don't feather the gas a little sometimes but I could not restart it since. Now I did notice at one point at the campsite the key was left in the on position but I don't recall if it was before or after the first stalling and at the time I was not aware of the damage it could do so I turned it off and didn't worry about it. At some point after we were home and it was rolled off the trailer into the garage I noticed someone had left the key in the on position again and by this time I had googled enough to be aware off the problems this can cause. I turned it off and could barely touch the coil it was so hot, needless to say the battery was dead. Anyway, I got a new coil and still no start. At first I thought maybe a fuel problem but I can see the gas spray in carb when I step on the pedal. I took the line off on motor side of filter and cranked it and got about a cup of gas in 15 seconds so seems to be pumping fine with no filter problems. I sprayed starter fluid in carb and still no start. The front plug smells like gas when removed after trying to start. The 2 plugs I looked at appear to have spark when cranking but no way to tell how strong it is. I did some testing with a probe light as per advice from jeephammer in another post and the coil and module appear to check out OK.
Testing the ignition module 'Ground'...
Check for 'Ground' at the coil wire 'Green' wire.
Do this by hooking up one side of your tester to the battery POSITIVE,
Then probe the coil 'Green' wire.
With the key switch in the 'Run' position, you should show a constant 'Ground'.
This will tell you the 'Green' wire is connected to the module, and the module is getting 'Ground' through the 'Black' wire.
With the engine cranking, you should show a 'Flashing' or 'On/Off/On' while the engine is cranking.
If you are getting the 'On/Off/On' while cranking (Flashing test light) then the distributor/module is working.
This means the distributor is triggering the module, both distributor and module are working.
I am about to replace the plugs/wires/cap/rotor but it just seems like maybe I am missing something. I know they don't really cost that much but if that doesn't do it whats next, the module? than what? Hate to just start throwing money at all kinds of new parts just because I have no clue what's wrong. I want it running but I'm scratching my head here. Thanks
Jeep is 1975 frame/body...the motor and ignition is 1979 and not points...not sure what else to check. I don't have a way to actually check the plug voltage or coil wire voltage. might just have to replace to see if that fixes. any other ideas what I could check first?
Easy enough to pull a spark plug, put the plug wire back on it and lay it on an exhaust manifold (for a ground) have someone turn the engine over with the key while watching for a spark at the spark plugs gap. It should be blue, but any spark at all is a start. I would also check the distributor to make certain the hold down bolt hasn't worked loose and allow the distributor to turn. Just grasp the upper part of the unit and see if you can turn it with moderate pressure. Let us know what you find.
83 CJ7 AMC 304, Ford T-18 with Novak Adaptor, Dana 300 TC.
Thanks for the replies. The distributor is def not loose and I did look at the spark from 2 plugs the other day and I thought they should have looked a little more blue but hard to tell. I know I have power going to the coil and it's a new coil, maybe replacing the wires/cap/rotor is the only way to know. Any other thoughts?
If you look down the carb and give the throttle a twist, do you see two shots of gas going in? How old is the gas filter?
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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I did see the two shots of gas in the carb from the throttle and the filter itself prob has less than 100 gallons through it. It would seem like if it had any reasonable spark at all it would at least try to start with the starter fluid sprayed in it. I looked at the spark again last night in pitch black and I would have to say it is not blue but more just plain orange or yellow. Coil/plug wires? rotor or dist. contacts?
Make sure the fuel filter return is at 12 o'clock position.
Go throught and ck ALL ele. connections.
FWIW: The horseshoe connector on the coil is the source of allot of ign issues.
I.E. weak spark--
BTW-Forgot you had a 'no-fire' with the OEM coil--CRS is a bi'ch at times
Have'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men