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Unread 09-13-2011, 11:08 AM   #106
FLynes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterdowg View Post
Here you go
Thank you so much for the arrows....huge help! I love this site!

How do you get the rear crossmember/bumper off? Drill through the rivets?

Fred

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Unread 09-13-2011, 11:13 AM   #107
Matt1981CJ7
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Ahhh...another CJ owner with hay-burners (horses)....must a disease, or something.

Matt
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Unread 09-13-2011, 11:17 AM   #108
FLynes
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Originally Posted by Matt1881CJ7 View Post
Ahhh...another CJ owner with hay-burners (horses)....must a disease, or something.

Matt
I think it must be! I call them hay burners too, because right now that's about all they're doing. Our yearling Quarter Horse is still too young to start training for Hunter Under Saddle, and the mares are just brood mares. The fourth hay burner is a breeding stock Paint Horse...he does have color, but it's on his pecker, and the last horse that APHA allowed to be registered with color on his wang was called "Search Me". We can use and sell him as a hunter jumper prospect, though.

Brooke likes to remind me how much I spend on the CJ, but I tactfully point out to her that her hay burners cost more.

Fred
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High Plains Drifter
1976 CJ-5
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Black Wellington Vinyl Bench Seats
258 I-6 1bbl
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Unread 09-13-2011, 11:33 AM   #109
243
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Fred,

I would use Rustoleum in a can before I used any spray paint on the frame, spray paint is thin there is a lot of waste.

I primed my homemade utility trailer with Rustoleum rusty metal primer http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=155 and their black paint http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=162 with a brush and roller. After sitting in the weather, completely exposed since 2006 it is still almost rust free except where the paint and primer have been gouged or scratched to bare metal.

Since I cleaned most of the rust off the trailer, this primer appears to be correct for the application and probably to your frame too http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=35
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Unread 09-13-2011, 11:42 AM   #110
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Fred,

I would use Rustoleum in a can before I used any spray paint on the frame. I primed my homemade utility trailer with Rustoleum rusty metal primer and their black paint with a brush and roller. After sitting in the weather, completely exposed since 2006 it is still almost rust free except where the paint and primer have gouged to the bare metal.
I was thinking Rustoleum rattle can, but you think brushing it is the better way to go....okay. What I want to know is what the OE finish was, i.e. flat, semi-gloss, gloss, etc...

Fred
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High Plains Drifter
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Unread 09-13-2011, 11:47 AM   #111
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Truthfully, if I was buying a new tub as you mentioned earlier, I would spray the frame for a better "looking" finish. I sprayed the Rustoleum high heat black (quart can) on my exhaust manifold and bbq pit with an HF gun and it turned out very nice. The level of finish is your call.

I suggested the roller or brush applied paint because it will provide a lot better protection than rattle can.

And it does not need to be Rustoleum, there are other paints from farm stores like TSC and others that provide emplement paint that would be as durable, or more durable than Rustoleum.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 11:49 AM   #112
waterdowg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLynes View Post
Thank you so much for the arrows....huge help! I love this site!

How do you get the rear crossmember/bumper off? Drill through the rivets?

Fred

I did not remove the rear crossmember. I only removed the tank. But, I would grind the head off the rivit, then punch it out with a center punch.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 07:53 PM   #113
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Didn't get much accomplished today. Sawzall'd the exhaust off...mufflers were totally trashed. PB Blasted all of the bolts that are left on the frame, including the fuel tank area, got the fuel pump off and found it was leaking...no surprise there. Took the driveshafts off and then took the alternator bracket off, which is where I spent about a solid hour trying to get that bottom bolt off....real motherlover. I finally had to put a torch to the timing cover and hammer the crap out of it, then put a screwdriver in the back and hammer more. The impact wrench finally got it out the rest of the way.

I talked to a guy on the phone today, who worked for AMC on the Jeep assembly line...frame is supposed to be a satin finish, so that's one less mystery.

No pics, because there really wasn't anything interesting to shoot.

I will, however, take some video of the rear axle tomorrow...I'm a bit worried about it and want some opinions.

Fred
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High Plains Drifter
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258 I-6 1bbl
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Unread 09-14-2011, 12:03 PM   #114
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Did that body lift that was on there make your steering a little squirelly/terrifying, especially at high speeds? I have a jeep that I tore down that had the same size body lift on it and you didn't take it on high-speed roads cause chances were you wouldn't survive it. I was just wondering if the lift would have been the culprit. Great build, post lots of pics like the other guys said for those who rely on others build threads for their own projects. And PO's need to be shot and pissed on.
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Unread 09-14-2011, 12:06 PM   #115
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By the way, I would never call a jeep "ugly", rather that she "has a good personality"!
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Unread 09-14-2011, 12:14 PM   #116
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Originally Posted by SaskCJ7 View Post
Did that body lift that was on there make your steering a little squirelly/terrifying, especially at high speeds? I have a jeep that I tore down that had the same size body lift on it and you didn't take it on high-speed roads cause chances were you wouldn't survive it. I was just wondering if the lift would have been the culprit. Great build, post lots of pics like the other guys said for those who rely on others build threads for their own projects. And PO's need to be shot and pissed on.
Ummmm, terrifying is one way of putting it. Let's just say that my seats are brown now

For grins and giggles, one day, I decided to get the CJ up to as fast as I could....65MPH was what it said, but it felt like 125. It took every ounce of strenth I had to keep it going straight. Looking back on that, I should have been awarded my stupid sign, because I could have easily flipped it and killed myself.

I didn't even want to offer the body lift to anyone for free, because those things are just too dangerous, and I'd hate to be responsible for someone getting hurt/killed.

Fred

P.S. The cat pee is what made it ugly!
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High Plains Drifter
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Unread 09-14-2011, 12:18 PM   #117
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For all the JF gurus:

I'm pulling the engine this weekend...going to TSC and getting chain and Grade 8 bolts for the engine stand....two questions:

1) Where is the best place on the engine to attach the chain?

2) What size Grade 8 bolts do I need, to secure the engine to the stand?

Thanks.

Fred
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High Plains Drifter
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258 I-6 1bbl
T-150 3-Speed
3.54:1 Open Gears

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Unread 09-14-2011, 12:25 PM   #118
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When I was in the looking at/buying stages of my Jeep, the guy who was selling it (who was NOT the mad scientist who screwed everything up) told me that another fella was coming to look at it. The seller lived 2.5 hours away from me, so I couldn't come look at it til that weekend, and in that time he was gonna show it to this guy. So I guess this guy comes over and his teenage daughter is with him. He checks it out, the seller gives him a bunch of info on the jeep, and everything looked good. So the guy then says to his daughter "So, what do you think? You want this one?". Right there the seller chimes in and asks "This is for her?" The guy says "Yeah, she just turned 16 and this is her present.". The seller then says "Then I'm sorry there is no way I'm selling you this thing. The SECOND you don't respect this vehicle it will 100% guaranteed kill you." And that was that. And I wound up driving it the 2.5 hours home (felt more like 10) and was white-knuckle terrified the whole time. So I'm hoping that by changing to a 4" susp lift she'll steer a bit better.
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Unread 09-14-2011, 12:35 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLynes
For all the JF gurus:

I'm pulling the engine this weekend...going to TSC and getting chain and Grade 8 bolts for the engine stand....two questions:

1) Where is the best place on the engine to attach the chain?

2) What size Grade 8 bolts do I need, to secure the engine to the stand?

Thanks.

Fred
Take one of the bolts out that hold the bellhousing on. You'll probaley need 4 about 2 to 2.5" longer.

I believe I put the chain, were I'm pointing.
On painting the frame, it doesn't look quite as good, I feel brushing works paint in better.
Bill
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Unread 09-14-2011, 12:59 PM   #120
FLynes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaskCJ7 View Post
When I was in the looking at/buying stages of my Jeep, the guy who was selling it (who was NOT the mad scientist who screwed everything up) told me that another fella was coming to look at it. The seller lived 2.5 hours away from me, so I couldn't come look at it til that weekend, and in that time he was gonna show it to this guy. So I guess this guy comes over and his teenage daughter is with him. He checks it out, the seller gives him a bunch of info on the jeep, and everything looked good. So the guy then says to his daughter "So, what do you think? You want this one?". Right there the seller chimes in and asks "This is for her?" The guy says "Yeah, she just turned 16 and this is her present.". The seller then says "Then I'm sorry there is no way I'm selling you this thing. The SECOND you don't respect this vehicle it will 100% guaranteed kill you." And that was that. And I wound up driving it the 2.5 hours home (felt more like 10) and was white-knuckle terrified the whole time. So I'm hoping that by changing to a 4" susp lift she'll steer a bit better.
Mine is going right back down to the stock height with stock tires. No more lift for me.

Fred
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Retired Army Guy

High Plains Drifter
1976 CJ-5
Lime Green
Black Wellington Vinyl Bench Seats
258 I-6 1bbl
T-150 3-Speed
3.54:1 Open Gears

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