Second part of the write-up.
Cooling System Details pt I
In '67 and "early" '68 AMC used a "long shaft" water pump. If you look in some early road tests where they modified the engine and it is apart you can see the long shaft water pump; it is very obvious. I don't have the info handy, but the early long shaft WP has a distance of something like 5.7?" from the gasket surface to face of hub where the fan (or fan spacer) mounts, and the "later" WP is at ~4.5", so they are very different. The pumps may have changed again after 1970, but that's another topic. You will occasionally see a long shaft WP on eBay; they were probably rebuilt 35 yrs ago and sitting on a shelf since then. Supposedly AMC had a lot of problems with rapid bearing failures with the long shaft pumps and redesigned the system for shorter shaft pumps. When I look at the long shaft WP I wonder "what were they thinking?" When they changed to the short shaft WP they came out with a different WP pulley (it is narrower or shorter than the originals since the WP shaft was shortened) and also a new fan spacer and sold them in a kit including the bolts. According to the parts book the short shaft WP installations began in 1968 at car number E-049017. This is fairly early in the model year, probably Dec '67 or January '68, so very few production AMXs should have had the long shaft pump (none?). The long shaft WP was "removed" from the parts list so that after a certain time, all you could buy from AMC was the short shaft WP and then you needed to also get the pulley and spacer kit so that it would work. I have a NOS long shaft pump, in the Rambler box, and it is PN 3209692, which does not show up in either the 67-72 parts book or the AMX/Javelin parts book. The only difference is the shaft; it uses the same casting. The casting number on the OE housing is 3181706, it is at the "top" and it is very light and will be read upside down as installed on the car. The earliest water pumps used a cast iron impeller, then they later used a plastic impeller; rebuilders install a stamped steel impeller.
Early "wide" pulley 3.50" tall 3186331
Later "narrow" pulley 2.31" tall 3193354
7-blade flex fans, With Heavy Duty Cooling (WHDC):
The 1968 fan does not have the AMC PN stamped on it. It does have a PN, but I assume it is a vendor PN. It has a date code using the format A68 for January 1968. This info is only stamped in one place, where the metal is folded over near the blade. On the later fans it is stamped much larger, and near every blade. 68s used only three rivets per blade and the 69+ fans used 4+ rivets to hold on each blade.
The 1968 flex fans were copper plated and then dipped in semi-gloss black paint.
A lot of different thickness fan spacers were used; these are extruded aluminum and bare when installed.
68/9 3193384 1.22 thick
69 3190510 1.50 thick (for three rivet fan with 5.88" fan blades)
69 3195409 1.75 thick (for three rivet fan with 6.25" fan blades)
70 3190510 1.50 thick, Less HDC (LHDC)
70 3195409 1.75 thick, WHDC (with HDC)
The original spacer on my '68 is 1.13 thick. The one in the pulley changeover kit I have is 1.22 thick.
68 WAC used the metal shroud, 3185973
68-70 WHDC used the metal shroud, 3185973
69-70 WAC used the fiberglass shroud, 3194548, superseded by 3216095
On 68-70 cars Less AC and Less HDC (LAC, LHDC), no shroud was used and a 5 blade non-flex fan was used.
Hoses: All of the OE hoses were molded (less the heater hoses with the valve on the intake manifold) and had some type of inking on them. The upper radiator hose that was installed at the factory is not inked identical to what was sold at the dealers. The factory installed hose is inked "AM RAD >" where this indicates which end of the hose faces the radiator. This is because the ends are the same diameter and can be swapped at installation. The lower hose has different diameter ends and cannot be swapped at installation and does not have this marking. I have an OE used 68 AMX upper hose and it does not have a PN inked on it but does have the "AM RAD>" marking. The lower OE hose from the same car is marked with the AM script and the PN. I have never seen a NOS upper hose with the "RAD>" inking on it, I have several AM logo NOS radiator hoses, yet every 68-70 road test with an underhood picture has this "RAD >" marking. Both the upper and lower radiator hose had a stripe inked on. The bypass hose had the PN and group number on it along with the AM marking and a stripe. The heater hoses were also inked. OE heater hoses: 69 and 70 were date coded using the format 09208 for 9/20/68, and also included a PN and probably a stripe inked on (can't remember). In 68, the 5/8 one has a PN and group number but no date code and the ¾ one has a yellow stripe and again no date code and also no part number.
Cooling System Details Pt II
Clamps: The radiator hose clamps were by Wittek and were the "tower" type. The upper hose used two 2" clamps and the lower a 2" and 2-1/4". The clamp metal was galvanized and the screw and captured nut were clear zinc. The bypass hose usually used a 1-5/16" tower clamp at the water pump and a Corbin (round spring wire) at the thermostat housing. The heater hoses used a changing combination of clamps over 68-70. 68s used a tower (I think, maybe a #7, I'm going from memory) and a Corbin at the heater core, a Wittek #7 (side screw type) at the heater valve, and a tower at the water pump. Other years used different combinations. The Wittek tower clamps are dated 3/67 for third quarter 1967. The "#7" clamps were not marked with a date code, only "Wittek Chicago, IL" and the "7"
The original heater valves that screwed into the intake manifold were clear zinc (as were the firewall mounted ones). They (intake manifold ones) are very similar to the yellow zinc ones you can buy today except the assembly tangs are oriented differently with relation to the outlet nipple. I have seen partial stampings on the top of the OE ones, this might be a date code, but I have not seen a complete stamping to see what it means. There is also a patent number stamped on the top, the "date code" stamping is much larger.
Coil bracket- clear zinc
Pulleys - semi-gloss black
'Z-bar' of alternator bracket - semi-gloss black
Rest of alternator bracket - engine color
Exhaust manifolds - natural
AIR Tubes (manual cars) - engine color
Oil fill tube - engine color, 390's have shiny breather. Formed hose to air cleaner
AC compressor bracket (mounting)- natural
AC Compressor support bracket - semi-gloss black
AC Compressor small L-shaped bracket - semi-gloss black
AC compressor - I have seen them black and silver
AC Clutch - seen both ways as well
Dist. Clamp - natural
Throttle bracket, bolts - galvanized or zinc with zinc hardware
Air cleaner - gloss black, chrome lid for 390, wing nut 'chrome' on 390, Also, there are two air cleaner bases for 70, one is an open tub like the 68/9, and one with a baffle around the inlet, to quiet intake air noise, I believe the baffled version was for the non ram air cars.
Stove pipe - engine color - two styles, auto & manual
PS pump - (from Tom B & Steve P) the cast iron body of the pump is a natural cast finish. The bowl, cover, and brackets are semi gloss black or automatic shift cars the pulley is a stamped steel piece that is painted semi gloss black. The bolt that holds it in place is natural. There is a large hex head on the side of the pump. This should be natural.
Large PS aluminum bracket - natural
Fuel pump - natural
Sending units - not painted
Valve covers - should have small bolts with semi-circle washers on the exhaust side, larger 1/2 head size bolts with washers on the intake side. These are plated
Intake - The center bolt holes have a smaller wrench size bolt in them since the area is tight. The bolts should be engine color.
Thermostat housing - natural, 70 has two styles, early shouldn't have any extra ports. Bypass is held on with Corbin clamps, but the upper hose is tower clamps (and please don't put the upper hose on upside down! I have seen this in cars in magazines! a pet peeve of mine!)
Brass fitting for rally pac should be natural - both on intake and block. Rally Pac junction at oil pressure switch is: large octagon fitting painted engine color, natural brass extension tube, natural brass T fitting, Rally Pac sender and light sender. Light goes on the run, gauge off to the side (There are also metal strap clips that were included with Rally Pacs to bundle the wiring with the original wiring harness)
Fan - semi-gloss black, spacer natural
Heater control valve - clear zinc
Distributor - base is natural, black DR cap. 70 had two styles, dual and single diaphragm. Dual diaphragm came later in the year. Clamp is natural.
Most bolts that bolt pieces to engine are clear zinc.
Engines were assembled as long blocks & painted without accessories. 390s were painted with valve covers on, and as explained by Peter Marano, who worked at AMC, they used plastic 'tubs' to cover them. I have seen a lot of chrome valve covers with small traces of green around the edge which supports this theory.
68 was Caravelle blue, changed to Alamosa aqua (not exact IIRC, but close and what everyone sells for them) in 69, 70 and few years into the 70's. You can buy them in spray cans from Eastwood or AMC vendors. You can also have it mixed (i like to do this, spray with a hardener, color looks better, lasts longer. High heat paint was around back in the 60's and look how well they hold up).
I had thought the oil hose was preformed but think it just formed into its shape over time. I think there were two vendors on the AC compressors, one was black one was natural aluminum. I believe the most common is natural alum. 390s had a chrome wing nut for the AF lid. The 1970 throttle bracket is galvanized or zinc with zinc hardware. AF snorkel screws are zinc. Intake bolts varied in style bet 68-70. Thermostat housing is natural AL. Chrome valve covers were definitely painted on the engine- I have a pic with one showing about an inch of overspray in one area.
Spacer/3-bolt bracket for PS – painted natural aluminum; sometimes the spacer has some black overspray on it as it was attached to the pump when the reservoir was painted.
Adjusting 'arm' for PS - Semi gloss black along with the AIR pump "arm"
Clamps on bypass hose - both hog ring? No. Corbin on the thermostat housing and Wittek tower on the water pump; this may have varied though as the clamp styles on the heater hoses varied. However, I have seen both original 68s and 70s as I listed.
Fitting on manifold for brake booster - AFAIK, not painted.
There are clamps holding the breather tube hose at the oil filler cap and the air cleaner, they aren't hog-ring, flat metal... can't think of the name.
Some cars had no clamps on the oil hose, especially70s as seen in old road tests photos. I don't know the technical name of that clamp but the same type was used on the fuel lines, brake booster hose, etc. The hog ring types are called "Corbins"; different sizes are different colors.
Bakelite spacer with vacuum port on the rear for carburetor was not painted for 70+, not on 68-9; vacuum port was for PCV
The distributor hold down clamp is natural metal, not plated.
On the AC compressors I think York were natural AL and Tecumseh were flat black, but I am not sure. I believe that info is actually in the parts or service manual.
There are 4 PNs (more?) for the stove pipes as 290-360 used two types and 390 used two types, auto and 4 spd for both applications. The 390 used a .25" taller intake manifold so the stove pipes are slightly different because of this.
66: first year of 290 cubic inch engine. Only 625 cars had it, with 500 of them the special yellow and black Rogue. There was also 28 American Converts with the 290: 25 auto, 3 4 spd (1-4 bbl, 2-2bbl. I owned a 2 bbl, still local). The engine was gold color, Ditzler number 22866.
67: The 343 was introduced in 67, and the 2 bbl was painted copper-#22867.
The 4 bbl was red, #71394.
68: saw the intro of the 390, and all V8s were now the same color:
Caravelle Blue (Same as the exterior color) #13416.
69-72: the engines were painted Engine Blue, close to Tahiti Turquoise; the # is 13730. This is the paint Seymour sells for AMC, EN-66.
73 and up: engine color changed to a lighter blue, and is also called Engine Blue. The # is 14688.
These are all Ditzler numbers. I buy the paint at a body supply shop (custom mixed) and paint my engine the same as painting a car. As long as the parts are clean and dry, it lasts forever. Too hot you think? Ever feel the hood of a car in the desert sun? The only part of the car that hot is the exhaust manifolds, which are originally painted engine color. They get the silvery finish in less than 200 miles of driving. Think about it-the engine is assembled, then painted as a unit-exhaust manifolds, bell housing, smog tubes, spark plug shields, air cleaner stove pipe, etc. The carburetor, distributor and water neck are added later.
Retired Army Guy
High Plains Drifter
Black Wellington Vinyl Bench Seats
258 I-6 1bbl
3.54:1 Open Gears