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Unread 05-22-2011, 04:49 PM   #1
MemphisCJ7
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Jeep dies after 20 minutes of driving

At first I thought it was a fuel delivery problem, but after waiting for it to cut off during idle; I noticed that additional electrical loads ( wipers, headlights, blinkers, heater) made it shut down quickly after prolonged idle. Any pointers or similar exp? Thanks y'all

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Unread 05-22-2011, 04:55 PM   #2
78eagle
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Sounds to me like a pickup coil issue.Duraspark??
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Unread 05-22-2011, 05:24 PM   #3
scottymac62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MemphisCJ7 View Post
At first I thought it was a fuel delivery problem, but after waiting for it to cut off during idle; I noticed that additional electrical loads ( wipers, headlights, blinkers, heater) made it shut down quickly after prolonged idle. Any pointers or similar exp? Thanks y'all
What is your volt meter reading when it shuts down? Are you using a single wire alternator? I would check the main chassis power cable connection at the solenoid and see if you have a good connection there.
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Unread 05-22-2011, 05:29 PM   #4
MemphisCJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottymac62 View Post
What is your volt meter reading when it shuts down? Are you using a single wire alternator? I would check the main chassis power cable connection at the solenoid and see if you have a good connection there.
Volt meter drops to 12 with the additional load on it. Connections are solid. I'm not sure what a single wire alternator is.
With no additional loads the volt meter stays at 14.5 until the engine begins to stumble. When the engine falters it drops to 13 and then shoots back up to 14.5 when the engine regains itself.
The alternator is less than a year old
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Unread 05-22-2011, 05:30 PM   #5
MemphisCJ7
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Originally Posted by scottymac62 View Post
What is your volt meter reading when it shuts down? Are you using a single wire alternator? I would check the main chassis power cable connection at the solenoid and see if you have a good connection there.
Your speedometer cluster looks awesome btw
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Unread 05-22-2011, 05:35 PM   #6
MemphisCJ7
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The 20 minutes of driving part may not be that important. I just went outside and cranked it up. It idled fine until I turned on every electrical component. After that the engine began to struggle like it was running out of gas and then shut off.
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Unread 05-22-2011, 06:01 PM   #7
scottymac62
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Originally Posted by MemphisCJ7 View Post
The 20 minutes of driving part may not be that important. I just went outside and cranked it up. It idled fine until I turned on every electrical component. After that the engine began to struggle like it was running out of gas and then shut off.
Thanks for the dash comment.

Is the alternator wire hot at the solenoid when your engine stalls? If so, you probably have a bad connection in that area that is causing a high resistance joint as the temperature increases (which is caused by a bad connection). And as the resistance increases, the current flow to the main chassis power cable (which also feeds your ignition) decreases to the point that it cannot sustain the proper voltage threshold.

Another thing you may want to do is to take your positive battery connector off your battery then take the cables off of your solenoid and clean everything real good with a wire brush and some terminal cleaner.
Check all of the cable crimps while you have them off to make sure they are not loose and that they have no corrosion on them. Pay special attention to the chassis power cable.
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Unread 05-22-2011, 07:45 PM   #8
MemphisCJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottymac62 View Post
Thanks for the dash comment.

Is the alternator wire hot at the solenoid when your engine stalls? If so, you probably have a bad connection in that area that is causing a high resistance joint as the temperature increases (which is caused by a bad connection). And as the resistance increases, the current flow to the main chassis power cable (which also feeds your ignition) decreases to the point that it cannot sustain the proper voltage threshold.

Another thing you may want to do is to take your positive battery connector off your battery then take the cables off of your solenoid and clean everything real good with a wire brush and some terminal cleaner.
Check all of the cable crimps while you have them off to make sure they are not loose and that they have no corrosion on them. Pay special attention to the chassis power cable.
I cleaned every connection on the solenoid with no luck. Still bogging down after running for awhile. I also threw a hand grenade in the engine compartment, shut the hood, and ran away. That didn't work either. Which one is the chassis power cable? I googles it to no avail and want to make sure I hit it. Thanks for your patience and assistance.
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Unread 05-22-2011, 09:23 PM   #9
scottymac62
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Originally Posted by MemphisCJ7 View Post
I cleaned every connection on the solenoid with no luck. Still bogging down after running for awhile. I also threw a hand grenade in the engine compartment, shut the hood, and ran away. That didn't work either. Which one is the chassis power cable? I googles it to no avail and want to make sure I hit it. Thanks for your patience and assistance.
The main chassis power cable should be a red cable coming from the firewall in the split loom. It might be crimped with the alternator cable lug that connects to the solenoid. Make sure that the crimp is good and tight, and that it has no corrosion on it.
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Unread 05-23-2011, 06:00 AM   #10
Mike Romain
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The main chassis ground cable runs from the back of the head off a head bolt up to the firewall and is a mesh cable. When rotted, you for sure get your symptoms. There is a second one across one of the engine mounts for the frame ground. These are wire mesh cables.

The other sneaky ground connection that goes ratty is where the cable from the battery hooks to the block.
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Unread 05-23-2011, 06:26 AM   #11
MemphisCJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
The main chassis ground cable runs from the back of the head off a head bolt up to the firewall and is a mesh cable. When rotted, you for sure get your symptoms. There is a second one across one of the engine mounts for the frame ground. These are wire mesh cables.

The other sneaky ground connection that goes ratty is where the cable from the battery hooks to the block.
I found the engine block ground and cleaned it. It looked awful.
I also cleaned all of the main chassis wire conncections; though at the time I did not know that is what it was called.

Still having issues, but bless her jeep heart she waited to go down in front of my house as opposed to a busy street. So I know she cares.

Is there a set up I can buy to replace this main wire or is it just a "buy some random wire and make your own" type of thing?
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Unread 05-23-2011, 06:49 AM   #12
Mike Romain
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The local parts stores sell generic battery cables in various sizes.

Could your fan belt just be loose or polished up so it is slipping? This can also cause the dive under load. i test them by taking a cold off engine and seeing if I can hand slip the alternator pulley by hand, if I can and the belt is still tight, then it has been polished up from mud (mud=liquid sandpaper) and will not hold under load. Polished belts don't squeal often either, usually they just slip. Loose belts squeal.

I recently just had the same issues, dying all over the place, with a 2000 XJ and cleaned the mesh chassis ground, no joy. It then fixed itself on our rough 4x4 driveway so I looked at the mesh cable really close and found it rotted in the middle where it wasn't visible. It tore it in half with my fingers.
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Unread 05-23-2011, 07:36 AM   #13
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I looked back but could not find what ignition system you have? This is very important. Most of the people have jumped on the low voltage bandwagon. I don't believe this to be the case becuase you have enough voltage to refire the jeep. It takes a lot more to start it than it takes to run it. Something is heating up and failing in the ignition system. Until I find out what system you are running I will make a guess. First when it shuts down touch the coil and see how hot it is. It could also be the ignition module. Both the prestolite and duraspark modules have had problems.
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Unread 05-23-2011, 07:48 AM   #14
MemphisCJ7
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Originally Posted by cj5752 View Post
I looked back but could not find what ignition system you have? This is very important. Most of the people have jumped on the low voltage bandwagon. I don't believe this to be the case becuase you have enough voltage to refire the jeep. It takes a lot more to start it than it takes to run it. Something is heating up and failing in the ignition system. Until I find out what system you are running I will make a guess. First when it shuts down touch the coil and see how hot it is. It could also be the ignition module. Both the prestolite and duraspark modules have had problems.
I will take a pic when I return home this evening and post it. I will also check the coil. Thank you for the suggestions.
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Unread 05-23-2011, 07:52 AM   #15
MemphisCJ7
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Originally Posted by cj5752 View Post
I looked back but could not find what ignition system you have? This is very important. Most of the people have jumped on the low voltage bandwagon. I don't believe this to be the case becuase you have enough voltage to refire the jeep. It takes a lot more to start it than it takes to run it. Something is heating up and failing in the ignition system. Until I find out what system you are running I will make a guess. First when it shuts down touch the coil and see how hot it is. It could also be the ignition module. Both the prestolite and duraspark modules have had problems.
This isn't mine, but mine looks like this.
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