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#1 | |
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Registered User
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jeep cj7 flex
im trying to get as much flex as possiable without spending a lot ... i have heard that takeing the second leaf out will help im think of shackles to i like the tara flex revolvers and the z ones but to use bout of those is too much money for what they do i can weld and have a small collection of fab tools so i can do a bit of work ... the shackles i have now sorda rough but i can spin the bolts with a braker bar there not super tight they dont seem to move much when i flex any tips or ideas to gain some flex . its also my daily driver and has a 4 inch lift
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#2 |
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Registered User
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too much flex is over rated, and the revolver type and Z boxes are pure crap and really only good for showing off on a ramp. SUA will never flex like SOA or coils etc. The flatter the spring, the more droop etc. Put a locker in and do what flex can;t....drive through the rock
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#3 |
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Registered User
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i could do a soa pretty easily but dont feel like haveing my jeep off the road any longer then it has been . im glad to know the revolver n z box are crap tho i think i might take a leaf out and get some greas able shackles and go form there im already locked and geared ...
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#4 |
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Lost and Not Found
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Make sure your shackles aren't too tight. Pull them off and make sure they are greased up. Make sure the clamps on the springs are loose enough to allow the springs to move. I have heard of some people removing the springs and diassembling them to add grease, neverseize and other stuff between the springs. I'd think that would gather dirt though. You couild always do a 3/4 ellyptical in the rear. That would surely help.
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1980 CJ 7--3" Black Diamond, 1" body, locked both ends, 4.56, 35x12.50x15 SS LTB, "family" cage It's easier to get forgiveness than permision. Salad is what food eats!!! http://emptypocketsoffroad.org/ |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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What springs are you running now? The first time I lifted my CJ I used 2 1/2 inch tuff country springs. They flexed like......well nothing. They didnt flex out at all.
Swapped them out for a set of 4 inch pro comp springs. I opened up the spring hangers, made sure the shackles were not over tightend and also took a leaf out of the rear pack to level it out. It flexed awsome. It was not the best on the RTI ramp compared to guys with the revolvers and other trick suspensions but it rode good and flexed great offroad where it counted. |
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#6 |
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GROUND POUNDER
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Here's an "out of the box" set of RE 4" YJ Springs under my CJ5. The shocks are 12.5" travel up front and 10" travel out back... Rancho RSX9000s off eBay.
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 3.73s, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s.. Lower 2 Guardrail Down Schoolbus Slickrock Tellico Save Crozet More Crozet |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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BSRK...... Rear spring shoul of just bolted up but front shacles are now yj shacles....Right?
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#8 |
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GROUND POUNDER
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Yep.. YJ shackle and a rear CJ shackle hanger up front.
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 3.73s, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s.. Lower 2 Guardrail Down Schoolbus Slickrock Tellico Save Crozet More Crozet |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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wow thats a lot for a sua . i may have to go the driection im not shure what the travle on my shocks is i just got some new ones cause the old ones where frozen and wouldent let the springs move at speed .
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Grand Junction, Colorado
Posts: 961
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A shackle reversal really helps in the front. I stuff the 30"s using stock springs and shocks SUA. It's pretty sweet but destroys flares
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#11 |
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Registered User
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how hard was your shackle reversal was it worth it
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Grand Junction, Colorado
Posts: 961
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The PO installed it, so I can't comment on how hard it was to do.
The ride quality is much better compared to the CJ7 we had before. Bump steer is reduced and the ride is smoother. here's a fairly good article on the pros/cons of a shackle reversal: Pros and Cons of Shackle Reversal - - Jeep at Off-Road.com
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#13 |
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Moderator
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The bottom line here is that you need to start with the springs (you still haven't answered what brand you have)...crap springs will always be crap springs and no amount of fiddling is going to make them flex and ride like good quality springs...you can usually make them tolerable, but they'll never be as good as starting off with the right stuff. A shackle reversal is for on-road handling improvement, not flex.
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'86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,2.5" Superlift,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers. '83 Scrambler: time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff. http://www.jeepskate.net |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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No it's not. A low COG and great articulation will make your wheelin experience better by far. Not saying a locker isn't a great thing, but IMO I'd rather have articulation than a locker. If you can keep the wheels on the ground you won't need a locker unless your running really hard trails. If you really want flex out of your CJ, do a 3link up front and a 4link in the rear. ![]()
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Randy Wright, Apache Junction, Arizona 2004 KJ lifted/etc 1974 CJ-6 being restored |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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Perhaps I misspoken...maybe I should have said " a good driver can cary a tire in the air"
![]() Don't get me wrong, a good balance flex is great, but often times flex is put over a good combination of flex and driver skill. Look at all of the Aussie challenges where they will design a rig to drive off the end of the RTI ramp by using hydro struts etc....and while they look cool doing it.....they are replacing joints and dealing with horrible binding often. just because you have amazing flex and all tires are on the ground doesn;t mean you won;t have unpredictable unloading and torque steer etc. I am going backwards with my build and have grown tired of huge tires and flex, so I am building a simple SUA on 33s that'll probably have as much flex as a subaru ![]() |
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